Song is "Better days are coming" by Dermont Kennedy.
Trying to get better at surfing every day on the water.
This is probably my best day of surf in my life so far.
One of the first times I can say I was able to control the board for a surf turn up the face of the wave.
My surfboard is 9 6 which is a solid boat and helps my balance. As an amputee, balance has been my biggest issue.
I'm pumped to be getting back into the water and stoked that I've been progressing at surfing.
3 окт 2023
