The Altoid tin sent me searching through my Dad’s RC plane equipment and I did find a tin filled with small Allen keys and ignition wrenches😎. Dads rescue from loose gear on the planes. Thanks Tim .
I just love tge bloopers. Grear video guys, u really yiu mentioning the paint basics lacquer, enamel and acrylic ans how to layer or not to layer. Keeo these coming pkease
I like that idea of having a small repair kit to bring at shows. I always bring repair kits but I put them in a plastic shoe box that I get from Walmart or Target. So we can call that Model first aid kit. Thanks Tim and shoutout from Chicago.
I was always dooing something with painting. But i had 1 for me golden rule. Laquer over Laquer and Acrilics over Acrilics. Glad you guys and girl pointed out what is the safest way to use all of the paint good in the good order. I mixed up badly not so long ago. Did something wrong and my near to perfect paintjob has now a few blisters on like they are on a foot that has walked 30 miles in bad shoes. Now i know what i can do and still be safe. Thanks all and have a great weekend
Like the field repair kit. My show repair kit is in a ziplock sandwich bag, which allows me to pack tweezers in there (gotta hold the small part you’re reattaching somehow).
The Altoids tin is an often used item in the EDC (Every Day Carry) Community. As for the tools shown here - substitute them with a Victorinox Swiss Army Keychain knife of the 58mm variety. Sharp blade, scissors, a nail file and depending on the model a small Philips screwdriver, tweezers, a ball pen.
Whatever works for you! However, a knife is not not carry-on friendly. With the exception of the razor blade, the rest of the MFAK (our new acronym for the Model First Aid Kit thanks to Felix) can go in your carry-on luggage if you're headed to a show via plane. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
@@FineScaleModelermagazine that is a good argument. Of course in-country flights are way more common in the US. And I would not want to argue with a TSA agent if a small SAK is allowed or not.
I' m betting that Tamiya will treat the F-35 like their 1/72 F-16 kit. They first released a basic version with barely any accessories, then they released a complete loadout version. So probably, in time for Christmas/holidays season, we'll see a Tamiya F-35 with a full weapons bay.
A couple of index cards cut to fit would give you the advantage of a business card, but with a place to write down notes and such. A small pair of tweezers would be a useful addition (or, as someone else pointed out, a Swiss Army Knife with that feature) . I've found that a .020" drill glued into a 1/8" dowel is very useful, coupled with a few bits of .020" brass wire in various short sizes lets you pin parts that have sheared off without having to rely on a weak butt joint. You can wrap the rubber bands around the outside of the tin to free up room if needed.
Hi Warship! Good suggestions. This was my take on Jim Haught's original thesis. It the best thing that could happen is viewers like you take the idea and customize it to work for your needs. -TK
The whole Acrylic, Enamel, and Lacquer topic. Yes, there are always exceptions to the rules. But I wanted to take this opportunity not just to point out an exception, but to point out just how versitle and easy to use, Tamiya products are. Tamiya paints, always seem to just work. Like their X and XF acrylic paints work underneath their TS-13 Gloss clear which is a lacquer. And their X and XF acrylics work over their Fine Surface Primer, which is a lacquer. And I use Tamiya panel line paint which is an enamel on top of their acrylic and lacquer paints. I guess what I am saying is use Tamiya paints and primers. They all just work. This post is not sponsored by Tamiya. :)
Lacquer paint melting plastic seems like an urban legend to me - keep hearing about it, but I have never seen it happen. Maybe you guys could sacrifice a piece of plastic and show an actual example of this happening.
It can definitely happen, especially if you spray it on too thick or have it pool on the model somewhere. If we can fit the demonstration into a future painting video, we'll do it.
What's been you folks' experience with using one brand of paints per model? Like all Vallejo or all Krylon or all Tamiya etc? Do the different acrylic, enamel, lacquers within the same brand mess with each other?
Mike, I take it you mean can Brand X lacquers affect Brand X acrylics. That answer is yes. Even though the paint comes from the same company, the nature of lacquer paints is that they are hot, so they can eat through the paint underneath. Same with same-brand enamels and acrylics. As Aaron pointed out, using like paints with like paints shouldn't cause an issue except in situations when something has gone wrong, to which we alluded with a recent project he's worked on (a video for that project is in editing and should hit in the near term). We hope this helps!
TEOTWAWKI/OMGWTFBBQ situation hits, I grab my go-bag, extra ammo, and, realizing i had forgotten to add my latest version Altoids Survival Tin Kit to my go-bag, the tin, then i fly out the door with 80899o8098709986876 zOMbies on my heels. Then i realize I grabbed the wrong Altoids Tin. RIP ME.
