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I have been having issues with model kits quality..decals disintegrating, paint bubbling up. Any paint brand suggestions? Any model kit brands to avoid?
Okay. I'm feeling like a failure, I bought the Infini Type B mat. I normally use blue painters tape and Xacto #11 blades. I'm have a bear of a time getting the blade to stay in the groove. Is my tape too think? Or, is the #11 blade? Help!! BTW, when I opened the mat, I thought it was a smooth surface. It wasn't until I dragged my nail across the surface that I felt the grooves.
I’ve used the scenic base color paint which makes an excellent color for the mud. Additionally added some mod-podge glossy if I want wet mud. I typically use the premix for a vehicle wheel especially that one with grass (not a tank which has many) where it is extremely visible, but for large scale love this sculptamold. If it is gritty mud add grout powder.
Note, you can take the sheet and create a brick pattern in your drawing program (add some randomness) and score the lines which keeps the back still attached but vaporized the whole gap. The edges are kind of burned which makes a counter shade appearance. Was super easy and repeatable (if you want some huge defect you just make the brick pattern the whole length and “crop” the cut file to each panel, in my laser I can take a 20” wide strip. Also lets you make non rectangular pavers (want hexagon pavers?)
wonderful video series. forget the ones with music playing. I am here to learn and in this case words are worth more than pictures. thank you thank you. clear and concise
I learned the hard way....( ruined a couple of canopies )NOW I use Micro Krystal clear everytime...best on the market. It takes a bit of time to start to dry and bond but its worth it and rubber tight fitting gloves are a must!! 😊
Tamiya panel line accent colors are definitely handy, and consistently work well. I also have some Ammo by Mig panel line washes as they offer a larger variety of colors. While I will sometimes mix my own, I have had issues in the past with pieces of pigment coming out of the solution. With over 50 years of experience building, I like to keep things simple as I get older.
You have to be careful with those Tamiya panel liners on Bandai plastic. Not sure what is going on with their plastic but I have had a couple of kits shatter at stress points when using the Tamiya panel liners.
I've built a couple of the Bandi 1/72 scale X-wing spacecraft. Each have a custom paint job. But before I applied any paint, I started a lite coat of clear lacquer glosscoat, the testor's product. Then a coat of enamel paint for my base color, another coat of glosscoat went on before panel lining and weathering, etc. Their both now hanging from the ceiling chasing a couple of Tie-fighters. So far no problems. I had read about what enamel paint could do to bandi plastic. So I was and am hoping my clear coats prevents any problems.
The storebought panel liners are a great value because, if used carefully, they will last a long long time. I use my Tamiya panel liners all the time and I've had the same ones for years now. Not wasting my time making something I can buy easily is worth more than they cost, too.
For me i use water colors since i use enemals to paint also can use enemals to do some panel lining on enemals. This takes time in allowing the paint job to cure for 7-10 days before i use enemals for panel lining or weathering. If not wanting to wait then the water colors in which you can get in paste form.....
Since that Model A is depicting a stock one, in going to say it's a 1930. 1931 was the last year for "A" production , but the radiator shell had painted sections when stock. (in 1932 Ford began production of the Model B, famous in the Beach Boys song as "The Little Deuce Coupe") The 1928 and 29 had shorter radiators. Back in the 80's, during the ZZ top Hot Rod craze, I built a 1931 "A" rod using a 60's era Hot Rod as the starting point. I wish I could post la photo of it here, but it was sweet when it was finished - Porsche 944 red, nerf bars, American Standard wheels, no hood, dual tunnel ram, new suspension (with tilt steering wheel!), new tinted window glass, walnut burl dash, vintage style instruments, and all interior metal brass plated and lacquered to keep it shiny. But it was one and done for me, that was an expensive hobby LOL.
I usually have a couple projects going on at the same time. When I get hung up on one I switch to the other. I primarily work on figures, in acrylics and in the military/historical genres where “paralysis by analysis” is almost a certainty, researching, etc. Having the needed image reference for each project readily available (printed out/books - NOT THE WEB!) I can switch between the figures without having to stop.
@FineScaleModelermagazine great video. Here’s the best way that I use the cutting mats. 1. Use a scalpel blade for the straight lines. The cutting portion of the blade is thinner & tapered at 15* to 20* which will give you a sharper & cleaner cut than hobby knife would. 2. Use a swivel head cutter when cutting circles & shapes with curves. The best that I have used is the one that Green Stuff World manufacture. The blade is thin & swivels easily through the grooves of the cutting mat. Perhaps do a follow up or update video.
Great video folks! I like the Infini cutting matt and have used mostly the smaller straight lines so far. I also have one from Border Models that includes various WWI and WWII camouflage patterns. I would like to see a demonstration in a future video on those high gloss finishes on the contest cars. I have never pulled off that deep of a gloss.
Micro Set and Micro Set… my son’s simple solution for which to use first and which to use second. Write a big number "1" on the Micro Set cap and a big number "2" on the Micro Sol cap.
As a doctor who pulls bits of metal out of patients’ eyes all the time, please wear goggle when cutting the pin, or you’re unable to get an MRI for the rest of your life (even brass is a problem not because it is magnetic but because it is conductive it will heat up)
In my experience, scalpel blades work best because they are much sharper than hobby blades. Also, cutting paper (which is what tape is) made of) is tough on blades and if you're cutting a lot of masks, change the blades often.
