FineScale Modeler: Making and using sprue goo

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Welcome to FineScale Modeler magazine's Scale Model Basics: Making and using sprue goo. In this episode, Tim Kidwell talks about the history, purpose, and process of making sprue goo.
00:00 Opening
00:19 Forum posts and the history of sprue goo
01:05 What you will need
02:12 Getting started
02:54 A helpful tip
03:35 Next steps
04:09 ⚠️ Safety warning/disclaimer ⚠️
04:27 Wait, watch, and mix
04:55 Mostly-finished product
05:14 Applying the sprue goo
05:59 Why the sprue goo method?
07:02 Finishing the process/the result
08:02 Is sprue goo the best filler option?
09:00 Dried down sprue goo
10:01 Conclusion and sign-off
___________
Links
Some more on this in the FSM Forums:
cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_te...
cs.finescale.com/fsm/tools_te...
Get the tools: KalmbachHobbyStore.com
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Website: finescale.com/
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Watch more at FineScale.com/Videos
This episode is brought to you by HobbyZone USA (www.hobbyzone.biz/)
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Опубликовано:

22 июн 2024

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Комментарии : 62

@robertjensen1438 9 месяцев назад

Before the invention of the crow bar most crows got drunk at home

@jaymorris3468 5 месяцев назад

😂

@ModerateHipster 9 месяцев назад

I use Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Once the bottle gets about half way down, I fill it back up with clipped sprues. Then I use the brush in the bottle lid to apply the Sprue Goo. For figure models (I do a lot of 28MM game models) I'll often just use the sprue goo as glue, especially for slightly mismatched parts during a conversion. Then I'll use another bottle of clean cement to feather out the edge of the Goo. Seamless styrene figures every time!

@occamsrayzor 9 месяцев назад

I personally call it "Gloop" and it's fantastic stuff, for hole filling, smoothing out of a damaged surface, or sometimes even joining dissimilar plastics together. I made mine up in a standard Tamiya paint bottle (the square kind) and it keeps for a long time in that. Secondly, it's more practical to just load up the bottle with sprue and your solvent, and then just put on the lid. That will prevent evaporation of the solvent, and in 24 hours you will have a whole bottle of the stuff.

@rogueplastic 9 месяцев назад

Two thing need to be mentioned. 1. The structure of the plastic is going to change because of it being desolved in the cement. This means that when it dries, solidifies it won't have the same consistency, or hardness as before. Applying cement to that part will melt much faster. This can cause some issues when doing panel line rescribing as that plastic is going to be softer than the rest of the model and needs more care and attention. 2. During curing bubbles can form within the gue which cannot be seen. This is a problem when you try to apply it really thick and when sanding back, bubbles will show on the surface and tiny holes. To avoid this always work with thin layers and build it up.

@user-js4zx1lr2u 8 месяцев назад

I gave up on it after 4 attempts. Different plastic, different solvent. No matter what, I'd get bubbles just from filling a panel line on a Hobbycraft model with it's deeper trench panel lines. Applied it, smeared it thin and let harden. Sand.... Bubbles.

@rogueplastic 8 месяцев назад

@@user-js4zx1lr2u that is valuable info. I've been thinking that it might be the plastic that is a bad choice and try something else, but it looks like it is more of an issue with the whole concept. One good use of for it is to strengthen joins internally. For example if you have some gaps, or you're not happy with how strong the bond is between two thin parts, you can brush the gue on the inside where it won't bother anyone. Still one needs to be careful as it can soften the plastic if it's very thin.

@bpmodels 9 месяцев назад

I love this stuff and being more of an aircraft modeller it’s my go to for filler. I’ve found that once the sprue goo is made,, if you thin it with Mr Levelling thinner it becomes an even better filler, and it dries a lot faster if added in multiple thin coats rather than one gert big dollop. It can be smoothed over with a brush moistened with MLT when wet too so you don’t need to sand things like figure joints etc . Definitely the best filler money can’t buy imo , and lasts forever if kept in a Tamiya extra thin bottle

@daleflying 9 месяцев назад

I've never used "sprue goo" but I'm going to try it and your tip on using a brush to smooth it out is a must try! Thanks.😎

@bpmodels 9 месяцев назад

@@daleflying You’re welcome Dave, glad it was of help mate. One thing I will say if you’ve never used it before is to make sure it’s properly cured before sanding and painting or you could end up with ‘ghost joints’ in your models where it’s shrunk back while drying fully. The general rule of thumb is that if you can press your finger nail into it without leaving a mark,,,, it’s ready for the next step 👍

@daleflying 9 месяцев назад

@@bpmodels Thanks again. I've used alot of Bondo, wood filler, epoxy, etc and I always like to save a scrap piece with the substance on it so I could poke at that - not the piece I'm working on. I haven't built a plastic model in almost 30 years! I'm learning so much watching RU-vid vids and reading comments. I have a stack of 16 models! My work space is mostly finished...Hoping to start the 1st in a few days. 😃👍

@franksinatra8329 9 месяцев назад

Hey, great tip dude! Thanks a lot. I will try and follow your technique 👍👍

@janvanrenselaar5998 9 месяцев назад

Better use a empty Tamiya Thin cement bottle. You got than a applicator by using the brush.And with the lid on the airbrush cleaner don,t evaporate. And you can use that bottle over and over again,by filling it up when you starting to run low. And it will not harden as in the round glas container, because the lid with the application brush on the Thin cement bottle will close better than the metal lid on the round container But when you use it,be sure that the sprue-goo gasses out a few days,dont paint over it the next day,You will get the paint bubbling up when it is dry, my own experiance☹☹☹

@MatterusOD 9 месяцев назад

Handy stuff. As most have mentioned, Tamiya extra thin bottle and Evergreen. Use a bottle that's running low and getting a bit discoloured and chuck in the styrene. I use a toothpick and goo to fill deep ejector pin marks. Sit the piece level and fill the pin mark to a dome shape and it will flatten out as the solvent evaporates. Good for hard to sand spots. Dip a bit of wire in to get a ball shaped blob to make width indicators for armour or knobs on levers. But definitely, as mentioned, much ventilation. I have a fan on and window/door open in my shed when working. (Warm climate here. I imagine it's difficult in cold climates trying to get fresh airflow and not freezing!) Cheers to all.🦘🦘🦘

@OldGrayCzechWolf 9 месяцев назад

You really do NOT want to be breathing this stuff. Besides ventilation a respirator with organic vapor cartrdge is a sensible precaution. My dad was a chemist, took precautions but still inhaled enough stuff to get emphasima and cancer in the end. Let's be safe out there.

@modelrestorations 9 месяцев назад

Great tutorial! Thank you for sharing.

@HotelPapa100 9 месяцев назад

A word of caution. This stuff shrinks by the amount of solvent contained within. And it does so for a long time, i.e. it takes a lot of time to completely dry out. For longer seams I'd rather glue in a length of stretched sprue or plasticard, where possible.

@woozleboy 8 месяцев назад

Instead of cutting it into small chunks, a heavy duty old school rotary pencil sharpener with the three grinding drums makes sort work of sprues with the results being finely shredded. Best to use a new or or clean out a used one with alcohol.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 8 месяцев назад

That's an interesting tip!

@calvingifford9442 8 месяцев назад

That is brilliant!

@melvynjones3904 9 месяцев назад

I use with Blue Stuff, to make new or more parts . I made an extra torpedo for the Revell “S”boat, took about three days to harden off.

@carlosvidal7697 9 месяцев назад

I make it by dissolving sprue in automotive acrylic thinner. The very best part is that when dry it has exactly the same hardness as the surrounding plastic so it will sand perfectly level. I just put the sprue pellets in the solvent in a small glass bottle and let it rest for two weeks, agitating once every other day.

@marktaylor85 8 месяцев назад

ditto, cellulose thinners and polystyrene packaging also works! i add celly to tamiya extra thin, works for me!

@Wild-Dad 9 месяцев назад

I’ve done this before - it’s not as easy as it seems. However, if you didn’t have filler, it does work. And.....just using the side cutters from your car’s or garage’s tool box work great from what you want to cut.

@swdw973 2 месяца назад

Another use I've seen for this, is to apply on joints where the seam is accessible on the inside of the joint to reinforce that particular joint. Don't have to worry about sanding, shrinkage, etc., as it won't be visible.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 2 месяца назад

Interesting tip. Thanks for sharing!

@darkwood777 9 месяцев назад

This takes way too long for simple gaps. Keep different thicknesses of sheet styrene on hand. Put a strip in the gap and add quik-setting cement. In a minute you can trim the strip down to the surface, then sand.

@deanlewis8083 9 месяцев назад

I keep a dedicated bottle of tamiya thin cement/sprue goo. has applicator already and good for large areas and use toothpick for smaller precise spots.

@billestew7535 9 месяцев назад

I found Evergreen sheet styrene and Tamiya extra thin made a very nice goo I thought it was better than Sprue but your mileage may vary I have also tried superglue and talc which doesn't shrink as much but does not sand as well

@gordon8753 9 месяцев назад

Awesome video again!! No Maiden shirt? Lol Up the Irons!!🤘

@FineScaleModelermagazine 8 месяцев назад

Thanks! Up the Irons!

@chuckjorgensenjr4095 3 месяца назад

I use sprue glue for large gaps that I find when dry fitting parts, normally engines chassis and so on. I'm one of them car guys that likes to use Bondo Glazing Putty for the body panels, it thins to feather the edges with just a touch of lacquer thinner.

@Wild-Dad 9 месяцев назад

I miss those little glass jars of baby food. The tops sealed quite nicely and it kept the gassing off to a minimum.

@splinter8353 9 месяцев назад

I use that last bit of Extra Thin in the bottle and put evergreen off cuts into it. my current bottle was mixed up around 6 years ago and has just thickened up but works great still, its a bit stringy but thats not and issue

@user-rf7mg1sx3e 8 месяцев назад

Great info! I can tell you how NOT to make sprue goo. I used the regular orange cap Tamiya cement to make sprue goo. I applied it to a car body to fill a couple holes where badges go and the stuff I made took a whole week to cure. UGH!

@Ala13ManOWar 8 месяцев назад

It'd have being nice for you to comment it takes like 1 week or even longer for the sprue goo to harden after applied… just saying. And anyway, as someone already said, it won't harden to hard plastic ever again. With time (a lot of time) will be usable, sandable, etc, but always like soft rubbery plastic, never as hard as it was in the first place. That's why it's "the same", but not the same at all to fill in those large gaps with evergreen instead of sprue goo.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 8 месяцев назад

Gotta disagree with your blanket statement. It's true, not all plastics will react the same way, but most plastics used in models will cure back to as hard as they were before. The plastic used in this example was from the recent AMT Razor Crest. The plastic cured as hard as it was prior to being goo-ified. And it doesn't take long to get back to sandable--24 hours and you're good to go. We're not saying not to use plastic strip to fill gaps--go right ahead. And if you're experience with sprue goo hasn't been good, then no need to utilize it. Heck, we don't use it all the time. It's just another option. Use what works best for you!

@mirage3rd 29 дней назад

In the early-mid 70’s, I think we use to call the mix of plastic and acetone “acetate”

@svenskdod 8 месяцев назад

I use an old tamiya paint container and shave the sprue with an exacto. way faster with shavings.

@boatingexplainedwithcapndr8359 3 месяца назад

When he says “sprue glue” out of the side of his mouth, he reminds me of Doug McKenzie (of Bob & Doug McKenzie “Great White North” fame).

@hangerbird 9 месяцев назад

Can you use different color sprue trees for this?

@stevebak6664 9 месяцев назад

Yes. No difference.

@user-en1gq1ud4z 9 месяцев назад

Has anyone used glow in the dark sprue goo on a glow in the dark model. Or a cleat goo on visible model

@dadandkids5028 9 месяцев назад

Don't use painted sprue. It never dissolves and contaminates your goo.

@Absaalookemensch 8 месяцев назад

MEK, or butanone is a constituent of tobacco smoke. Serious animal health effects have been seen only at very high levels.

@BryanLeeDavidson 7 месяцев назад

Would doing this with left over resin from 3D print work for this?

@FineScaleModelermagazine 7 месяцев назад

Probably not. It's not styrene, so it will not react the same to the plastic cement.

@BryanLeeDavidson 7 месяцев назад

Thank you.

@wackaircaftmechanic2312 8 месяцев назад

It’s funny because I have so much MEK due to working with fabric aircraft.

@RobotJeeg 9 месяцев назад

Mine always shrinks.

@michaelgrey7854 9 месяцев назад

I usually apply a couple of runs as it will shrink as the glue evaporates.

@RobotJeeg 9 месяцев назад

@@michaelgrey7854 I did it but it requires too much time compared to cyano glue. Plastic goo shrinks for 2-3 days before stopping.

@guidor.4161 9 месяцев назад

I remember using this in the 70's as a kid before I heard of putty, or maybe that wasn't invented yet?

@robertmunoz7543 9 месяцев назад

Goo Splooge?😳 Jman

@motthomas4220 8 месяцев назад

👁👁

@czerskip 5 месяцев назад

There's literally no difference between the extra thin cement and the airbrush cleaner (other than the price, that is, and the container both are delivered with).

@FineScaleModelermagazine 5 месяцев назад

Yep

@beeble2003 8 месяцев назад

2:04 "[Tamiya extra thin cement and airbrush cleaner] are both basically 50-50 butyl acetate and acetone." Nope. The airbrush cleaner is as you describe it; extra thin cement is 40-40-20 ethyl acetate, acetone and butanone (aka MEK), according to the MSDSes.

@FineScaleModelermagazine 8 месяцев назад

Sorry, but we're going to have to disagree with you. According to the SDS for both, there is 1% difference in the makeup. We, too, do our research.

@andylees2940 4 месяца назад

Why oh why wd you use the highly expensive overpriced glues from mainstream suppliers to make sprue goo instead of cellulose thinners!

@FineScaleModelermagazine 4 месяца назад

As stated in the video, we did use lacquer thinners as a test. They didn't work as well as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement/Airbrush Cleaner. YMMV As always, use what works best for you.