10:41 "A great ready to wear suit will always be better than a bad made to measure suit" This has to be hands down the most honest true statement in all of tailoring!!!
Hi Sonya and Hugo. Many thanks for the informative videos. I have been wearing a coat and tie to work for 23 years now and was getting a little tired of the look. It was just routine. Your Sartorial Talks videos have served as a breath of fresh air. I started using pocket squares based on your style tips. Thanks to you, picking my tie and pocket square combinations every morning has become very exciting. I look forward to wearing a coat and tie again. Thank you, from Honduras.
This is such a beautiful comment and indeed there is meaning in dressing well. We are so happy you found a new purpose in how you dress. It means a lot--thank you for your words! ~Sonya and Hugo
I’ve enjoyed wearing bespoke clothing for over 30 years. Don’t buy a suit until you’ve watched this video. An interesting and informative presentation by a lady who more than looks the part - terrific neckerchief!
As a bespoke tailor and trouser maker, I concur with everything she says on the bespoke side. I work from home, making trousers for our sartoria in NYC. In our trousers, the only thing sewn by machine are the long seams and certain pocket types that require stitch density for strength. As she states, all garments including trousers, retain inlays so the garment can "grow" with you. I am happy to see this piece on educating the masses to the difference between the different offerings. Nothing is so frustrating for me, than men's shops in America calling salesmen "tailors" and their wares "bespoke".
Truly, I appreciate your confirmation! And it's lovely to make contact with, and gain learning from an authentic trouser maker in NYC. Cheers to you! ~Sonya
I’m about 12 videos deep in 4 days, so can’t begin to express my gratitude for such comprehensive and easy-to-follow information on all things sartorial. For this video, based on the time spent and general commentary of the 4 options, my impression is that the MTM and MTO routes don’t seem as worthy as bespoke or RTW...and the praise and attention on the latter was a wonderful surprise (with the right brands, of course). Refreshing and insightful and helpful, thank you!!
I love the "where to buy it" part of the new videos. Thanks for keep adding value over value over the amount. You can feel the passion for every single video you make. Also Sonya! OMG! This time you overpassed yourself, so relaxed, so in control. The voice tonality was so rich, and the hand game was so subtle.
Wow thanks a lot Paul...I'm up and down on the chill/tonality/hand game scale, so happy to hit the target this time. Very much appreciated. Cheers to you! ~Sonya
I’ve been looking forward to another of your videos with great anticipation and as always it was worth the wait. Your presence as well as your voice commands attention and on this video you nailed both. Very informative and on point. Thank you 🙏🏻.
I've said it before and I'll say it again, these videos are an education. There's more real knowledge and inspiration on this one channel than on most of the other men's fashion and style channels added together.
You, young lady, remind me of a eternal classic poem.i It can be read or viewed a thousand times and each time you find something more alluring and more beautiful. Very insightful and enlightening information. Thank you kindly and warmest wishes. Edit: BTW I love the double breasted lapel vest.
Your comment gives me a boost to do even better then, and I truly appreciate the time and effort you took to write such encouraging words. A big thank you! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 You always do ! You never disappoint ! Top level content and my favourite channel on RU-vid (and the only one with the notification bell on) to learn about the sartorial world ! I will probably never be able to afford bespoke suits and/or shoes, but it is my dream ! Maybe i am too pessimistic, and it is very early to declare such a statement, since i only am 25 years old. Anyway. Thank you for this quality of content you always bring to your videos ! I hope you and Hugo will never stop coming up with new interesting videos ! Looking forward to the next ones ! Warm regards from Greece ! Thanos
@@Thatrollingmaster69 Hi again Thanos, The only channel of which you accept the notification bell? Hey, we adore knowing this, and although we don't publish as often as we'd like to, we try to take advantage of any down time by interacting with as many comments as possible, which is time consuming but totally worthwhile. If you have this admiration for bespoke, it is likely that you'll eventually put on a bespoke suit---plus, you'll certainly be very knowledgeable before your first fitting, which will improve the entire experience exponentially. Greece must be an intriguing place to live. Regards from Bourgogne and thanks so much for watching. ~S
Sonya i love watching your videos. Your voice is so soothing and wonderful. You are so knowledgeable and captivating and I'm learning a lot from you and Hugo.... I work a little part time job so i cannot afford a bespoke suit but one day i will... And now i have more knowledge and what to look for when that day comes.
Thanks for sharing your sartorial knowledge. Sonya, you have a soothing and calming voice, very pleasant to listen and watch your video. I love watching your video and of course Hugo too. Keep up the great show.
Once again another fantastic video, the perfect way gto settle down on a Friday night, thank you so much Hugo and sonya, please keep up the great work, very much appreciated, thank you your friend Ryan.
Sonya seems to be more comfortable, confident and vibrant in this video. Happy to see and anticipate more from her. Once again thanks hugo and sonya for this piece.
Great video, I think Ring jacket is one of the best RTW out there and easily accessible through The Armoury. It's how I first started out before settling for my current Neapolitan tailor. Back then I needed something quick and accessible which is very hard to achieve in the bespoke world.
Ring Jacket has received so many great reviews---and I think they're still going strong. Thanks for adding an other RTW name to the list and congrats on finding your Neapolitan tailor. Cheers! ~Sonya
Firstly I cannot understand why anyone would dislike Sartorial Talks videos, they are truely helpful. Hugo, Sonya, I have a question. I recently purchased two made to measure suits, and discussed the jacket length. The Tailor told me that the length should be to the knuckles, but I have seen Hugo were longer and my most loved suit is longer than that. Are there strict rules?
The general preference is that the suit coat "just covers" the backside (i.e., butt). However, if you need to lengthen the appearance of the legs, you may cut the suit coat or jacket a bit shorter (men with long legs have more freedom in deciding the cut). Another consideration is if you want to show a bit of your backside, or not...Solito in Napoli is known to cut the front of the jacket a bit longer than the back, perhaps to reveal part of the backside, although I don't know if this the reason for the cut or not. Thanks for your comment and cheers! ~Sonya
Sonya, you're a breath of fresh air. To encounter a lady such as yourself in modernity is quite rare indeed. My wife was wondering if you will be creating content for ladies in the future. She's experiencing a hard time finding a channel or blog for ladies that would complement. Thank you ma'am and God bless.
Of course it would be great to talk about ladies tailoring. I do struggle with what sort of content would be most appealing to ladies and it would be great if you could ask your wife specifically what she would like to see that isn't included in the current channel. I should have started such polling years ago to build a data base already! Thank you and Cheers! ~Sonya
Instructive, educational and by someone who knows. Theses are the facts that are not usually available for the consumer , unless you all ready know them. Watch her video about Harris tweed( excellent). Thank you, i truly enjoy it, looking forward for more!!.
As always, a very informative video. I really enjoyed watching it. Thanks for the many sartorial things you and Hugo have learned me. You asked us to reply on that secret about making a bespoke suit with existing patterns. Apart from the fact that that can be a very-well made suit, I don't consider it to be a real bespoke suit. The essence of a bespoke suit, is that a unique pattern is made just for you. With those suits, that is not the case. A good tailor will always implement the house style in the suit, he will adjust a custom pattern to its desire. When he does however use existing patterns, he should not name it a bespoke suit.
I'm glad you took the time to comment here, and my curiosity is piqued in terms of watching the crafting actually take place with the use of (sophisticated) sizing templates, before drawing a personal conclusion about the bespoke classification--although I tend to lean towards your viewpoint. An interesting parallel example is the use of pre-formed lasts which are altered by cutting away wood or adding cork, according to one's foot size (a method which Saint Crispin shoes is known to use). Some have debated how to label this method as well. Cheers! ~Sonya
Many thanks for all your comments (sorry if we don't answer to all of them, but it's almost impossible considering the amount of comments and messages we receive). Cheers, Hugo & Sonya
SARTORIAL TALKS - Awww thank you, no worries. I don’t expect a reply. You both are amazing so I just want to show support and help the RU-vid algorithm help other people find your awesome content and channel!!! 🤗💞🤗
Wonderful thank you Sonya .Educational informative and inspirational ,please keep up the good work and continue to produce more of these elegantly presented videos. Kind regards to you both Adam.
Hi Adam, Thanks for noticing the production work---we hire it done professionally and will continue; however, we are thinking about doing personal production for some on-site visits, which would result in about a 30 percent drop in quality. The question is whether it's worth it or not---can the content stand alone for in-the-field visits with a lesser production quality, or should we stay with the high level production team at all costs. This is the question! If you have any input, we'd be curious to know what you think! ~Sonya and Hugo
@@sonyaglyn7035Hello Sonya, thanks for the reply .Well heavens i am no media expert however if your making video,s during your on site visits [a great idea] and its cheaper to produce these yourself ,go ahead.Its your passion and knowledge that should come across first and foremost and which is certainly the case with both you and Hugo .Again thanks for the reply kind regards Adam
@@adambailey8592 I'm very glad to know your take on the subject, as we are known for our quality production so it would be a risk to downgrade----but in the name of passion and knowledge, maybe it will be ok. Thanks again! ~S
@@sonyaglyn7035Dear Sonya, if you have any doubts stick with the same production format i can only speak for myself but if you and Hugo made content from the back of a pick up truck i would still watch and enjoy the learning experience .Please keep up the good work and taking the time to correspond with me .Kind regards Adam.
Great intro. Is it just me or does Sonya kinda talk like Hugo in this vid? Love Hugo and his French speech patterns and mannerisms. But lots of love to Sonya’s graceful American speech.
@Duke Of Prunes I think your assessment is correct--he is more animated with French. It's great you can follow both and interesting that you see the animation pick up with your wife as well---I suppose she's a good speaker! Cheers! ~Sonya
I have learned so much from your videos. Very helpful content! Can't get enough of listening to you. It would be interesting if you could list some brands which make quality suits in different price brackets
Has Oxxford escaped all notice not being located on The Continent? I realize their styling isn't everyone's cup of tea, but their craftsmanship is top rate.
Once again the Lady is here !)),,Excellent video Sonya, and you are very elegant dear as usual)),, i loved the scarf touch ))), love to you and hugo from Cairo.
@@sonyaglyn7035 You welcome dear , it's always my pleasure , hope you and Hugo had a great valentine day )), buy the way , i was glad you mentioned Boggi brand as i like it , but what about Canali & Zegna ? how do you consider them ?. Thanks.
@@naderelshafei Hi again and thank you for the question. Zegna has several different lines -- the Ermenegildo Zegna line is super. And Canali has a proven reputation, but as of a few years ago, I found the lapels to be very slim (maybe this has changed now). Best, ~S
@@sonyaglyn7035 Thanks dear for this info, by the way, i might visit paris by end of Feb or first week of march, do you think i could meet you and Hugo in paris ?
Thank you mam for such an educational video. Here in India we usually don't differentiate between bespoke and made to measure, but this is quite informative. And if could do a video on SUSPENDERS , how to wear and flaunt them ,I would be very greatful to you and Hugo!
Sonya: your attire is always so well put together. Is there a women's equivalent of s SuitSupply or Spier MacKay that offers decent quality suits online at an attractive price that you could recommend for business suits?
The first maker which comes to mind is Walker Slater. I have several pieces/suits from them with great results and great prices. WS is located in Edinburgh and now London, but also has online options, I believe. They can be contacted through Instagram fro specific inquiries. Cheers! ~Sonya
I have my suits made-to-measure and I can literally have almost anything done to them I want. I have hundreds of different choices from everything to the buttons used, the suit lining, the type of button hole in the collar, the color of the thread used in the buttons, the color of the thread that surrounds the sleeve button holes, functional--of course--even the font of how I want my name spelled inside the trousers and the jacket. I could go on and on. I didn't even mention the incredible variety of Loro Piana and Dormeiux fabrics I have to choose from. I get the impression that you don't fully understand what is available in the made-to-measure market. With all due respect, there's a lot more to it than simply adjusting ones measurements to fit a pre-drawn pattern. The measurements taken for my suits are also incredibly detailed. Every part of my body is measured: even the difference between the drop in my shoulders from the left side to the right side, the length of each of my arms, etc.,. The only reason I don't have my suits made bespoke is that there is not a great tailor within a reasonable traveling distance from me, so the gentleman I buy my suits from comes to me at my office. I'm getting near bespoke quality at half the price. I think you should perhaps familiarize yourself a little more with all that is currently available in the made-to-measure market. You'll do your viewers a great favor by highlighting it in a future video. Love your channel. Cheers.
Dear Sir, with all due respect we know most everything (technically) we need to know about MTM as we are observing, commenting and studying the tailoring field full-time since 10 years. And realize that some MTM operations give a lot of choices and customisation possibilities to their clients. However, this scenario is still not bespoke for two reasons : the pattern (we call it a block) is a standard one which will be altered to your measurements and the work is mainly Machine work. We don't say that MTM is bad, but we want to stress the (enormous) difference between actual bespoke and MTM. All the best, Hugo
Fantastic to know! If you agree, please recommend some of your favorite MTM makers, as we have much more to learn about this emerging market. Cheers! ~Sonya
I was very confused by the general statement 'a bespoke suit is entirely made from scratch and it's pattern is cut from scratch' but I couldn't understand what you exactly mean by pattern not made from scratch. I mean, then how do made-to-measure suits fit you better if their patterns aren't cut from scratch but.. Ms. Glyn has pointed me in the right direction. What I understand now: you give your measurements > they go to the factory where they have 100s of pre-made patterns > they pick out the closest pattern > they build the suit off of that pattern. Am I correct? Me understanding exactly what's going is crucial to me going for bespoke as it's actually very very affordable here (in Pakistan) for about $300 but it can seem very expensive when compared to cheap made-to-measure suits for $40 You are very elegant, Sonya!
"Bespoke" means a unique pattern is cut and tailored according to the body morphology of one person, unique to every other person in the world. A master cutter is able to draw the unique pattern directly onto the fabric, sometimes with a paper overlay (to preserve the unique pattern for future use). The fabric is then sewn together by either the Master Cutter or other tailors under his or her employment. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 Thanks for the reply, Sonya! So what exactly is Made-to-Measure? I think I know what bespoke is but lack the knowledge of what Made-to-Measure suits go through.
I have been learning so much thanks to you and Hugo. I am so happy to have found your channel. I have seen all of your videos and have notes on my own personal notebook. But still I want to learn so much more, I don't know if this is something that actually can be used for a video. But is it possible there will be videos dedicatedto explaining each style of suit? I been really curious to understand the British and Parisian style of suits.
Thank you for your comment Jose, and it's funny you pointed it out, but the number one Sartorial Talk is indeed on the different styles of suiting by Hugo, entitled: What is my style: French, British or Italian. There is of course also the Sartorial Talk on the different shoulder styles (also French, British and Itailian):). Cheers and thanks for watching! ~Sonya
Great point--Caruso is one of the most famous sartoria, which offers different lines, with some lines much more elaborate than others. Thank you, ~Sonya
Once again, a great presentation. My question is does a made to order suit have to be described as such, or can the company “cheat” by claiming made to measure, in that it will accept the measurements you supply the company. Again, please continue with these thorough and informative videos.
I have heard of such things happening, but hopefully it is an uncommon practice. Asking questions is key, once you know the questions to ask! Thanks for watching. ~Sonya
Sonya I would like to by my first made to measure suit. I live in London. I am feeling overwhelmed with the amount of trailers to choose from. How should I go about making a choice. Current front runners include, Norton and Townsend or Cad and the Dandy.
Why not Cad and the Dandy? Even if a portion of the work is done in India, we have heard good feedback over the years in regard to C & D. Whomever you choose, we'd like to know your experience if you find the time to come back here and comment. Cheers ! ~Sonya
Thanks, Sonya, greatly explained, however Ready to wear nowadays doing something so much better which is selling the coat and pants separately, which I love, I wear 46 R American but as a suit and pants, the pants always come so much larger like almost size 40. I hope more will do it this way, I'm size 36 pants. So 40 no matter how much money you spend will never fit u well.
You're not alone. I have a 10" to 12" drop from a 46L chest to a 36" to 34" waist (depending on the time of year and where the pant sits). It's such a pain to find anything OTR. As if it's impossible for anyone in decent shape to desire to purchase nice clothing. Although many places offer separates, everywhere I go it's only one or two selections of cut and fabric, and they're never the ones I want to purchase.
Sonya, what are your thoughts on Paul Stuart? Particularly their Phineas Cole and Made on Madison lines? In my experience, the detailing that goes into their ready-to-wear suits rivals offerings from bespoke houses (especially for the price).
At one time (around 2013-15), I would agree with you, and then Phineas Cole seemed to get off track. Recently however, I do think Paul Stuart is making a comeback. I'm hoping the company will lower the button stance on suit coats/ jackets, to place the operating button in a position where the naval may actually exist. Still, I do respect this company. Thanks so much for your comment. ~Sonya
Hi Sonya and Hugo. A very big well done on all your interesting and informative videos. I am a beginner on sartorial matters and have really learnt a lot from your work. I can't wait to receive Hugo's book to start reading more. As I am a total beginner, what is the average price of a bespoke suit from a reputable tailor in say Milan, Rome or Naples? Thanks a lot for your help.
Hi Andrea, I would suggest you visit Sartoria Celeghin near Milan--one of the most underrated tailors who still offers true bespoke at less than 3K ! The only problem is you may have to wait one year for your suit. Cheers! ~Sonya
I'm fortunate to have had 2 bespoke suits made (from a old Savile Row house and a French atelier well known for it's La Cigarette shoulder), however, since I live in Hong Kong the fittings only happen when the tailor conducts a trunk show. Because of logistics it takes FOREVER from start to finish ( one year for the Savile Row and 16 months for La Cigarette).
The waiting can get extreme, and although some of the top RTW houses are extremely expensive because the suits are all handmade, if an alteration tailor is on site, maybe you will give houses like Attolini a try one day? If you do, would like to know your feedback here. Cheers! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 Actually, one of the shops here (that hosts Cifonelli trunk shows) carries Cesare Attolini. I tried an off the rack jacket and I'd swear it was made just for me...like a glove as they say. Very impressed with their craftsmanship.
Thanks for great explanation. Why don't made-to-measure suit makers just cut a new pattern based on the measurements? Is it due to cost or difficulty in making a new pattern?
It's based on a deficit of the skill to freehand-cut a unique pattern for a client, which is indeed, the definition of bespoke tailoring. Most bespoke tailors have been trained since childhood, so most MTM providers just are not able to craft at that level. Cheers! ~Sonya
I never knew bespoke suits were good for 20 pounds either way. Having recently dropped 50 plus pounds none would fit. It didn't seem worth spending 300 to have them altered. Not many suits that are 30 years old look that great if you wear it weekly
Great video! Just wondering, what are your thoughts on brands like Zegna and Tom Ford (high fashion brands with dedicated lines/focus on suits)? They strike me as brands in this "grey" area in terms of quality/price ratio.
Zegna has several different lines, but the Ermenegildo Zegna is 'the solid product' (as far as I know Zegna is still crafting Tom Ford, & no one I know would complain to own a Tom Ford suit). There are five or more crafting sites for Zegna---but we haven't had the luck to visit any of them to date. If you don't have time to commission a bespoke, an E. Zegna or Tom Ford could be a good bet, even if expensive. ~Sonya
Hugo did a show on Boggi, Suit Supply, Spier & M, Walker Slater...just to answer your question, so please tune in for it. Thank you for replying! ~Sonya
Brilliant video as always. Thank you, Sonya! But is there a specific reason why you didn't mention Brioni as an obvious choice for high end ready-to-wear? Greetings from Germany!
Hi! Of course Brioni (crafted in Rome) used to be a Mecca of ready-to-wear and some of those iconic suits from the past can still be found at Degand in Brussels. In the more recent past, Brioni has been bought by Kering, and although Brioni still has 70 something boutiques worldwide--it has moved more towards the 'fashion world' and (sadly) lost its place among the most incredible sartoria in the world crafting traditional suits. I'd like to believe one day Brioni will return to its roots, but they've lost so many masterful tailors that I'm not sure if that will happen any time soon. Thanks for the question! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 Thanks for the clarification. So I guess, my strategy to rather hunt for vintage Brioni items on eBay than saving up for investing in their new pieces has been the right thing to do. ;)
I love your channel. Been following you since a couple of years ago. Any new recommendations of good quality MTM suits in canada/america? Is it possible to have bespoke under $1500 or even $1000? Thank you very much
First, thank you for writing and for being with us ! Spier and Mackay, Enzo Custom and Walker Slater may interest you, if you haven 't already tried. ~Sonya
@@SARTORIALTALKS thank you for your reply! I’ve only tried Spier and Mackay for Shirts and Outerwear. They are amazing. I want to go to Toronto to make a MTM since I feel their style is more european and I love that. I’m young (26), what could I expect to pay for a first bespoke suit with a more European/Italian cut? Unfortunately, $5000 is out of my budget haha. But are there options in the US (Or Italy) for $1000-$1500 bespoke? Or am I just dreaming? Haha If they are, could you guide me to some places? Thank you again!! Keep producing top quality content. You’re amazing!
Does that mean that a bespoke suit takes longer to make than a MTM? Or do they do it faster because it's all done in the shop? (in terms of doing it with original measurements and not just adjusting to templates)
A bespoke suit does indeed take significantly longer to craft versus a MTM suit, which will have machine operations mixed with some hand operations and more of a factory system to speed things along. Of course, the price tag is much different as well. Cheers! ~Sonya
I do like Brooks Brothers' shirts, but the confidence I have in their suits has declined----soo variable in crafting level, although there are still a few suits that can be searched out and found if you have the eye to separate good quality from inferior quality. It's a sad message to write but these are my impressions, as of today. We can only hope BB will improve in the future. ~S
Hi ya Sonya. Could you give be me some names of 'famous' houses which went to crisis or currently they are in crisis? Thank you so much for your attention. Hope you and Hugo are great, in the Grace of God. Cheers.
The main name I can think of is Brioni, who veered away from its reputation for making high level suits in its world-renowned sartoria in Rome. Since a few years now, Brioni has attempted to produce clothes for high street clientele, which has so far yielded a disastrous result, with a substantial drop in annual profits. ~Sonya
Hello Hugo and Sonya - I'm always excited when I get an alert that you have a new video posted; I have learned a tremendous amount from you both! A question... I have a double breasted vest which I like very much which I bought by itself, no suit or anything along with it. What is your opinion of mixing a double breasted vest with a single breasted suit (assuming colors and fit all work of course). Or is the double breasted vest more appropriate to wear without a jacket? Again, thank you for being such wonderful educators in the world of style...
I say 'yes'! Of course a double breasted waistcoat (vest) should indeed be combined with a single-breasted suit coat. You may try a very classic dove gray or buff yellow double-breasted waistcoat to dress up a standard single-breasted ensemble. Cheers and good luck! ~Sonya
@@sonyaglyn7035 brilliant, thank you! My waistcoat is indeed a dove grey pinstripe. My only suit (right now) is black but I'm looking forward to developing my repertoire albeit slowly considering my budget. Thanks again for your dedication to educating all of us!
I had a Tom James suit made. It started as a notched lapel navy hopsack three piece suit. It got scraped due to the placement of the chest pocket; for me, it was too far from the lapel. Six months later, I have a peak lapel grey flannel. It's a good looking suit. In my opinion, it was not worth the cost, but I learned a lot. The suit is not perfect but it works just fine... And my separates game is fire. JK
Hi C.W., I too have tried Tom James (who bought Holland & Sherry). They promised me my suit would be made at Oxxford in Chicago and then switched crafters to a place called American Tailoring. I found out when I received my suit and looked at the label. Disappointing as some sort of clear thread was used to hold the trousers together, but I also learned a tremendous amount and I hope TJ has improved since this experience 8 years ago. Glad your result was better! Cheers and thanks for sharing! ~Sonya
Sonya Glyn I was very disappointed with my Tom James suit too - it never fitted well. They claim to be bespoke but are in fact a variation on made to measure : the measurements are fed into a computer, emailed off to Chile and other locations and the suit is made up there. You then have real problems getting adjustments made if it doesn’t fit right when it returns. The price was not great either.
Oh wow, I do not know the level of crafting expertise, but I talked to Guffeys of Atlanta near Lenox Mall and I think they have a bespoke maker, but Guffeys was completely out of touch in regard to online resources and seem to live in their own bubble. Of course you can keep up to date on tailors visiting Atlanta from abroad if you follow the 'Sartorial Trips' website. Cheers!~Sonya
