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@@SARTORIALTALKS Guys, are certain cooler fabrics, even at heavier weights usually worn only at winter, cool enough for 3 season wear? I’m about to buy my first Made To Order suit from a brand in a different country. I love the look of it in the photos, but it is made with Fresco 3, 475 g fabric. From my research it seems that Fresco 3 is a very cool and breathable fabric. And when I asked the tailor if it would be ok for other seasons than just winter, he didn’t answer me directly but just replied that it is a very breathable fabric that is good for all occasions. Do you think this suit could maybe work for other seasons because of the cool, breathable quality of the Fresco 3, or is 475 g too extreme of a weight to wear in anything but cold weather regardless of the fabric type?
Thank you Hugo for explaining fabric weights. I like 3 season fabrics and now I know what I need to look for. I enjoy your informative videos. I look forward to the next.
Great information! I was just thinking about this very topic a few days ago. As I live just north of Washington DC where the weather gets warmer and humid, I was wondering about summer fabrics for an upcoming new suit. Thanks again and love your channel!
Cher Monsieur Jacomet! Thank You for this very interesting and informative series of videos! In my humble opinion, commissioning a new suit leaves the customer with virtually limitless opportunities. During this process, the question might arise whether to opt for an additional pair of trousers, which will probably double the life of the suit. To me, this might even be a perfect opportunity to order one pair in a lighter fabric for warmer days, and another pair in a more heavy fabric for colder climates - given the Mill provides the chosen pattern in a variation of weights, which in many times will be the case. Considering the latest achievements regarding the development of modern fabrics, the result could be somewhere very near to a truly four-seasonal suit! Veuillez agréer, Monsieur, l'expression de mes salutations distinguées!
Excellent information my dear Hugo , we always learn from you and dear Sonya, thanks a lot for your effort, and great outfit as usual))), love to you from Cairo,
Been wonderng why i haven’t seen any uploads from Sartorial talks....truth is that the algorithm does not like me, turned notifications on and am watching all the missed uploads 🤩🥵
Good evening Hugo I hope that this finds you well; well what can I say the perfect end to my day; watching my youngest daughter Violet celebrate her 7th birthday and then rounded off with a episode of sartorial talks, absolute perfection, thank you sir kind regards Ryan.
Cheers Hugo! I must say I wore my 270g (+ 65g lining) suit in 10C cloudy weather and it felt cold, while being surprisingly comfortable in 25C+ and sunny weather. Maybe it's me and I just don't like cold weather. Best wishes
Hugo, what a valuable presentation, appreciated. Myself, run cold, so guess then would agree with the British on fabric weight. By the way, myself prefer lower numbers, enjoy the feeling of wearing sturdy suits, is that also per chance British? Cheers!
Thank you for this information. Very Useful. Also important to analyse how "heat sensitive" you are and how much "cold intolerant" you are before you make such decisions. Personally I would prefer to the heavier fabric as temperatures below 15 degrees celcius is cold for me and I can tolerate 38 degrees without a sweat!
Hi Hugo - wonderful video; really appreciate these deep dives. Had a question regarding fabrics thats perhaps a little tangential. With all these wools, I know its a bit looked down upon to mix types especially with synthetics but I wanted to know if you were aware of any fabric manufacturers that where doing a stretch wool on the premium fabrics end especially in the 3-season fabric variety. Thanks!
Great Video as always. However, there seem to be a few exceptions from the rule, especially when it comes to frescos or high twist hopsack fabrics: heavy as chain mail, yet extremely cool and breathable.
Great video Hugo. I Would like to know your opinion on low rise or mid rise pants? Also your opinion on pleated pants? I got a pair of pleated pants and really like them because they add some extra flare but I don't want to make the mistake of buying just pleats and regret the decision in the future if the style becomes outdated. How do you juggle your choice on trousers when there are so many styles available?
Have been binge watching all your videos they are greatly appreciated. Would love to see a video on caring for bespoke suits and shirts properly, including closet storage. Perhaps a second video as well for traveling and packing suits.
Talking about the fabrics, I live in a place where it goes to as hot as 30 degree c, normal is around a pleasant 22 to 26. I have a wool 1 on six db jacket, my dad's I wore it and it felt like it actually protected me rather than making me feel hot, it protected me from the heat, (I was inside the home) And for the first minute it felt a little cool, then it became normal, just felt like a light blanket covering me. I would imagine, how linen, or even seersucker would feel. God knows, or you know. edit: I am wearing this and writing now, same feel.
Hi Hugo. Great video as always. I just had a sports jacket made for me with Harris Tweed cloth. Just out of curiosity, would you know what the typical weight range for Harris Tweed is? Thanks.
Dear Mr. Hugo Jacomet, I love your content. Just a few weeks ago, I commissioned my first bespoke Tuxedo. I was very particular in all the styling details and materials. I wanted to choose the fabric from the well known mills like Loro Piana, Scabal, Dormeuil etc. But, the materials I wanted were only available in other lesser known companies so, I went with the latter company. Am I wrong in wanting to choose from famous mills? what's your take on this?
My take is that you are paying much more because of the name! A mill like Drago for example is producing fantastic fabrics, but as their name is less known, the price of the fabric is much more interesting. Best! Hugo
I'm rebooting my wardrobe and planning first purchase - Navy suit. I run very warm and want something breathable that won't look out of place if warm in the colder months the way linen would. My plan was a heavier Fresco fabric (around 290-300g) in half or maybe full canvas, half lined. I'm told that because the fabric is so breathable, I can opt for a heavier version for a better drape. Does this fabric choice/weight make sense given my purpose?
Hello there. Could you please give detailed advise about drycleaning wool suits and and mixed wool fabrics with silk, cotton, linen etc. What’s the very best drcleaning solvents. Can one use the “P” solvent when “F” solvent is labelled on the garment? Finally, what are the alternatives to using solvents?
Hugo, why you and Sonia don't produce similar videos on shoes and suits for women? Being a woman, I'd love to see and hear your opinion on women's classic shoes and get to know some brands to look at closely. ;)
Good starting point, but there are other factors as well. #1 Time spent outside vs inside. I travel extensively, to all climates. Most of that time I'm indoors, in a cab in a plane, etc. So while it was -20F in Canada in Feb, my longest time in the elements wast 2 min as we walked across the street. In general, winter specific suits are too heavy for me indoors where I spend 99% of the time. Same in really hot. Travel to Dubai or Singapore, the higher end the establishment the colder the air conditioning. But as a traveler, my needs are different from people staying in one place. That's not to say I don't have different weight clothing, I do, but not at the extreme end. An overcoat is better than a heavy suit, even in Sweden. If I traveled to Dubai more, a summer suit would be worth it as I hot.
Dear Roger, I said this video about weight was just a starting point aiming to provide only the big picture. Of course there are dozens of other factors to consider. The first one being the way the fabric is woven (open "plain" weave, 2 by 1, 2 by 2 etc). Best, Hugo
Degree Farenheit - Degree Celcius conversion: Take the F-Value and subtract 32, take the result and divide by 9, take the result and multiply by 5, Final result is Value in C. Example: 104 F, 104 minus 32 = 82, 82 divided by 9 = 8, 8 multiplied by 5 = 40 // 104 F equal 40 C
Living in Montreal, I just cant wear wool tailored pants during the winter because salty snow sludge gets all over my pants. thick, washable cotton corduroy is the way to go
Thant you Hugo. I will get married soon, so I would be very interested to know everything about wedding suits. For example: is a dinner jacket appropriate?
Maybe you should start with this on our blog : parisiangentleman.co.uk/2015/04/21/what-should-the-groom-wear-tuxedo-lounge-morning-or-nehru-suit/ Cheers, Hugo
I personally plan to attend ceremony (during the day) in morning suit and in the evening during wedding party in the black tie ensamble. And congratulations, by the way!
I enjoy your videos Mr. Jacomet. I bought black dress pants by Joseph Abboud; on the inside is a label with Reda Super 110's on it. It is a very fine light wool. Can you help? They were $170 marked down to $10.00 dollars!
Greetings Hugo and Sonya. Please share your thoughts on Mohair-Wool blends with 'fresco weave' at ~300g for summer use (idea is that open weave fabric, while heavier, breathes better). Good or bad idea?
Off topic question, but I'm wondering what types of vests/waistcoats are acceptable to wear with a single breasted tuxedo. I see vests with collars..... would be be appropriate to wear? If so, should you look to match the collar type? Just curious as to the thought process/rules for such a suit. Thank you
Dear Sheldon, this is indeed off topic. There are no fixed rules for this (even if a cummerbund is the most common choice under a tuxedo). Usually the vests under a tuxedo are low-cut, single breasted without lapels. But a double breasted vest in dove grey for example with peak lapels is also perfectly acceptable. Hope it helps. Hugo
Mixed fabrics are fantastic, but mostly used for odd jackets except wool/silk/cashmere which can be also used for trousers. The wool/linen/silk is extremely agreeable to wear. Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS it is indeed, i bought a lazio blue 3 piece suit with that blend at suitsupply (thx for the tip by the way) and they had indeed also a linnen cashmere white suit but i thouth it to be a bit too much 😁 Merci pour t'a reponse Hugo, Salutation de Belgique
Linen is considered a summer fabric not because of its weight but because it is breathable by nature. European linens usually weight around 250 gr (9oz) while British ones are a little heavier (10/12 oz = 300 gr). Clasic tweed is by nature a winter fabric which weights around 330 gr but you can now find "light tweed" around 280gr which can be worn almost all year round (depending where you live of course). Cheers, Hugo
@@SARTORIALTALKS, apparently the online calculator(s) are incorrect as convert 300GSM to 8.85 ounces a yard. This seems to explain why was unable to find heavier fabrics. Meaning, a simple nugget of information has great worth. Why are all six or so calculators incorrect? Maybe instead, need to find what GSM provides the best drape and crease for flannel. At least now have a GSM guide for fabrics, appreciated.
How is fabric weight related to super numbers? To be more specific; can, for example, a super 180s be 120 grams per m2 as wel as 200 grams per m2? Or do all (or some) supernumbers have standard weights?
Generally a finer thread yields a lighter fabric. Beware of going too light and having fine fabrics wear out in 5 years. In many opinions Super 150s around 240 grams aren’t sufficient for regular wear. They wear out
Dear Stephen, the Super numbers don't say anything about the weight (they describe the diameter of the wool fibre). Each fabric has a weight written on its technical sticker. Cheers, Hugo
I make bespoke historical suits - 600g that is historical autumn / winter weight. If you want it for 3 seasons use Sp/W/A - then Hugo is correct 450g is perfect.
It's the buttonhole on the left: a few times in the video it looks like that lapel has two notches, while at the same the right lapel catches the light oddly and looks notch rather than peak.
Is the manner of how you wear your tie an expression of sprezzatura? Reason I ask is a majority of men take great effort to hide the narrow portion of the necktie. I noticed in a lot of your videos that this part is exposed, almost as if to say "I don't care if it shows."
*I MAKE BESPOKE HISTORICAL SUITS* mostly in the English style - I consider 750g, to be winter 600g to be 2 seasons, 450g to be 3 seasons and below 400g is summer Also - the higher the "Super" the shorter the life of your suit - I would never make anything in above 120 as I expect my suits to last a minimum of 20 years.
By my math 800 grams/square meter times 12,5 square meters is 10 kg. Subtracting the weight of any lining and canvas, it still means we're talking about a fairly large size here...
Dear friends, sorry to come late in the discussion but here is your answer : for an overcoat you'll need approx 4 meters, so a "normal" overcoat with a wool of 500 gr (GSM) would weight approx 2 kilos (4.4 lbs) + lining so let's say 2,4 kilos. Hope it helps. Cheers, Hugo
All you really ned to know is that summer fabrics and, some are not ! @ 5:35 - "I'm not going to one it because there are too many"... Then why bother with a video? Just do an audio !
