In this video, Andy drove from Brooklyn to have his transmission overhauled. Had Gear ratio codes, delay in drive and slipping in reverse as well as slipping on 2-3 upshift. Rebuild went very smooth and trans worked very nice
Excelent video as always and this gentleman helped me on a few questions about my 5r55w and its more then perfect on its rebuild that I did all by myself
If i wasn't so far away from your shop I would definitely bring my X5 there. From watching your videos I see you are very thorough. And I also was from the garden capital of the world myself..lol. stay well Gary.
Gary is the one to go to, he did an awesome job he is good at what he does, I recommend Gary. He does excellent work and he's honest quality you can't find out there right now
Its like you are field dressing a deer that you just hunted.lol Its very interesting. I have to really learn this to rebuild my 45RFE in my 02 Jeep WJ.
Great video! I have a 545RFE in my 07 Ram, it works fine but it's a machine and will fail at some point. I've wondered if I could DIY this job but also know that you make it look easy because of experience that I don't have. When the day comes I may just go with a reman.
Not really any special tools, valvebody and pump is Torx 25, regular tools should be fine, may need a feeler gauge for the molded balance piston in the input drum
Thoroughly enjoyed this video - what a wealth of knowledge! I plan on rebuilding my 545rfe. I am considering the "Monster in a Box" from Monster Transmissions - what is your opinion of their kits? I built a stroked and bored 399c.i. hemi from a 5.7: Eagle heads and intake, Molnar crank/rods with Carillo pistons, custom cam (torque profile), long tube headers. I expect it to make about 500-550hp. Unsure on torque numbers. My transmission has been great - no issues. I just don't want to kill it after installing this built engine. In your opinion, what is the best way to make it live as long as possible? This is a 4x4 4 door half ton truck with a 6" lift and 35" mud tires. I don't hot rod my truck, but I do pull somewhat heavy trailers. Thanks for any info you can give.
What do you anticipate caused all the frictions to have “Undesired Thermal Spotting”? Do you think it was from the Front Pump Solenoid Switch Valve? Is there anyway you could film a video of you performing a “Vacuum Test” on a main control/valve body as well? Maybe just a short video of one failing? Thanks for the great videos!
Put a used 545 RFE in that had the white connector. Trying to figure out what the cam plate is. I'm guessing that's the harness connector end that connects it. Mine wasn't changed. Is that cam plate the harness connector that feeds into the trans
I put a used solenoid pack from an 04 Jeep in my 03 jeep grand Cherokee last night. Got it all buttoned up and fluid topped off. It shifts through all the gears but has zero drive in any of them. I didn't pay attention to the color of the connector of the part that I put in and will verify today after work. They old one is black and if the "new" one is white could that be why it has zero power when in gear? I'm assuming I need to drop it all and swap the plates.
It boggles my mind, how on earth do u know what order the clutch plates go in? When you pull them out at 24:29 and fan them, how do u know what order they go in? Or does it matter?
Well the pressure plate is always the top plate, sometimes there is a wave steel which would go on the bottom but you do have to watch the thickness of the steel and clutch plates or your clearance will be off
I have a 2006 Dodge Dakota with an automatic transmission. The transmission has trouble codes P0733 and P1790. I'm trying to perform a 3rd gear clutch test with my scan tool. I can't figure out, how to shift the transmission into overdrive. The 2-4 overdrive clutch fill index is 54.
Thank you for replying to my question !!! Yes there are codes from the truck i.e P.O 700,882,876,871,846,864,, 988 . I'm hopeful that info from you will help me with my 06 Dodge ram 4x4 truck in area such as repair and replace , rebuild kit , or salvage yard replacement cannot afford new , thanks again for your help it is sure nice have a outstanding day
Hey guys off topic, but is the Jatco CVT still so unreliable? I am looking at a Chevrolet Spark or Mitsubishi Mirage with that transmission. Cheers from Brooklyn!
I have a 01 grand Cherokee 2wd 4.7 with 91,000 miles that i wrecked 70 mph, spun around and hit hard on driver's side rear and spun around like a helicopter rotor and crashed the front also. I also had one with a blown motor so i test fired up the wrecked one, ran and sounded good so i swapped motor and tranny together. Everything was fine at first then i started getting a buzzing sound from transmission area, sounds like more towards front and getting a p0700 code and must be in limp mode. I can manually downshift, and 1st gear works but hits into gear hard. It buzzes only in park and neutral and stops instantly when i put it in gear. reverse works fine. Do you think this issue could be in the valve body or something deeper?
only other code is p0136 and i believe that's o2 sensor that i hope clears up after i add better gas. I'm only using the key turn 3 times for the code. I have another transmission i will swap the solenoid block and try to narrow it down. The buzz is pretty loud, it doesn't start buzzing for a few seconds then it gets louder, sometimes it quiets down randomly and as soon as i put it in gear it stops. thanks for replying.@@GaryFerraro
you maybe could try disconnecting the solenoid pack while the car is running to see if noise goes away, of course this will cause codes that will have to be cleared@@jerryhyland1554
Im thinking a valve buzz from the pump, if a bad converter the noise would go away in park and neutral , not a common thing with this trans.. If it were a filter noise it would never go away would be there all ranges.@@jerryhyland1554
Hi Gary, I have a mid 2003 Jeep grand cherokee 4.7 ho, was driving along and it lost drive the other week, oil was pooring from between the bell housing and engine, I've removed the transmission and pulled the Torque converter, the o ring on the Torque converter hub looks very worn and flat on the outside,, I've also removed the front pump seal that the Torque converter goes into, would just those 2 seals cause that issue or do I need to pull the transmission apart further to find the problem? Many thanks Dean
That trans should be the 545RFE, not common at all, rarely see that, you may have to change the front cover, there is a large o-ring around the outside and a smaller one around the inside by the front seal, the converter hub look ok?
@@GaryFerraro thank you for replying so quickly, 545RFE is the one, Would that cause a sudden loss in oil pressure for the trans and to lose oil all of a sudden? It did it instantly as I clicked out of overdrive? Converter hub looks good, some very very light marking from the seal but no groves or deep scoring etc,
The smaller of the 2 o rings that seal the alloy front cover looks a little flattened over in one spot, I'm guessing the oil pressure came from there and out the front cover? Would you replace the front cover with an alloy one or is the steel upgrade much better? Many thanks Dean
@@DJsGarageHomeandBuilds Steel one will not work, that is for later models. I would replace the front seal and the aluminum cover. Converter hub looks ok?
@@GaryFerraro thank you much for your knowledge, I've removed the overdrive unit, there's some pretty burnt up clutch plates in there, it's discoloured the steels, the ones in the units further back are much better colour, I'll rebuild from there, is there much benefit to changing the black plugged unit to the white unit? Anything else need changing for it? Many thanks Dean
hello, I own a jeep cherokee liberty limited 2003 KJ 2.8 CRD, with my diagnostic devices (DRBIII emulator, Icarsoft) the following DTCs are still present despite their erase. It's P0740 TCC out of range, P2704, P0218, P0868, when I drive I feel vibrations, I can't say exactly if it comes from the gearbox...I'M NOT A MECHANIC. Your videos are very informative, which is why I am turning to you with the idea of having information from a specialist to help me solve this problem. The accelerator pedal is sometimes soft and sometimes not...is there a connection? I changed the oil, the filter but I did not change the flat filter. Thank you for your response, help and support
ok, the P0740 and P0218 could be related, with the converter slipping this generates heat causing the 218 code to show. Do you know what trans you have? 42RLE?
This is simply a heavy right foot, nothing more. It's cool to think you're a real badass to put your right foot down. Yeah, really cool until it's time to pay you.
Internetpirate3 Your comment did not show, i actually have never had one of these blow the low sprag. where you towing with this vehicle, you could e-mail me at gsferraro@yahoo.com
Sorry just saw you responded to my comment 8 months ago. Was not towing with the truck but was driving 12-14 hours a day pretty regularly so lots of extended highway mileage. I have a picture of the blown low sprag I could email you if interested.