In this video I am refinishing my sand wedge in preparation for the upcoming golf season. I show the basics of how I refinish this club to get a solid performance out of it.
anther tip: you can use a Groovex tool to sharpen the grooves back up, which the Groovex one specifically will get the grooves to the maximum allowed depth and width as it is specifically designed to do this do to the garud system that is on it.
thanks man I now flip a lot of wedges i find on facebook market place because of your vids. I find some cheap Vokeys for 10-20$ each and re-sell them for 60$-80$ each once i'm done with your refinish process. (I paint and stamp them too) :)
I’m about to start flipping as well. I’m already pretty solid with metals but what tools would you recommend? Additionally, are you selling on EBay, FB or is there somewhere else?
Looks like fun. I have four wedges in my bag (present day set with lower lofts, 44° PW) Callaway set new 10 years ago. They came without any wedges, so I spent big on Callaway 56° and 60° and thought I was done. Later on I realized this left me without the 48°and 52° and was upset with the expense. Found the $25.00 Powerbilt wedges at Dunhams Sports and I like them best. Get em. They are excellent.
A deburring wheel is much better than a wire wheel. It’s blends the metal together and creates a “new” finish. Then with polishing, you basically have a new club.
That wedge is raw. I have another video for refinishing a plated wedge. I also nickle and then copper plate a putter in another video. I dont reccomend copper for wedges thou.
Sheesh guy, if it were me I would be wearing a protective leather glove, at the least, to protect my fingers from an errant grind / sandpaper skin gouge or scrape. Second, I also try to stabilize the club head by inserting into a grip wedge inserted into a vise. Otherwise, another "dime-a-dozen" vid on golf club refinishing. Anyway, thanks for your time and work, still informative.
Great videos! I have just bought old mizuno mx25 and I want to refinish the face (there are some rust and scratches). I have one question: on this movie I see that You only grind the front of the face with one snadpaper grid / manu grinder, you have also used bigger grid and polishing grooves after like rest od the face (but just dont show on the video) or for grooves You used only sandpaper about 100 and than blasting?
I have gone more aggressive on the face. It just removed more groove. you would want to use a groove tool if you sand the face more. I try and buy clubs where the face isn't too bad, maybe rusted, or the sole is dinged.
@skateboardingafter302 the goal on the face is to flatten the surface and remove wear. This will increase the sharpness on the grooves and give you a flat surface for consistent contact.
The front edge should be sharpened to a razor's edge. That way the club will cut through the grass and dirt without much resistance. LOL But you have to buy a leather cover to protect from cutting your hands.
So... I've been sharpening my grooves for a while. Filed my 60 and resharpened grooves... holy f*cking spin. I would get a lot at times before but after resurfacing it is very consistent now. I was doing short sided bunker shots and stopping real well
@@noworriesman love to hear that. I find that i get good consistant spin when i do the face refinish. Just a little less than a new wedge. But very playable and no issues holding any green.
For buffing, try starting with a denim wheel and then final touch with a cotton wheel. I know u said its not a showroom club, u could just even use the denim wheel and call it good.
I use a harbor freight blasting cabinet and aluminum oxide media. I don't use a ton of pressure, maybe 25 or more lbs. Depends on the wedge metal. Some are harder, and some are soft.
@@Levihooper7 to turn a wedge black you need a commercial coating that imbeds into the metal. Otherwise, it doesnt last long. You can buy, blackening for different metals but, it does better on putters.
I appreciate all the work you put in redoing your clubs, but wouldn’t it be easier to just not let them get in that bad of a shape to begin with? After every round of golf I clean my clubs using diluted simple green in a spray bottle for woods & hybrids and a club clean golf ball/club cleaner washer using the same simple green solution. After a year of playing they still look great. I’m just saying.
Thank you for identifying the 54 degree as a sand wedge, it's suprisingly odd how many people today (mostly new golfers) refer to a 54 as a Gap wedge, along with a 52, 50, and even a 49... I feel like people think the word "gap wedge" sounds cool or something, but it's just plain annoying.
@@dan8085 I grew up most my life not knowing that either. I always called a 54 degree a gap wedge too. Just based off the majority of modern day info I find on it, the 54 degree I guess technically falls in the sand wedge category. I didn't make this up haha, it's just what the overwhelming info out there suggests...
@@dan8085 also a 50 degree almost always now is called an "A Wedge", some going with the word "attack" or "approach" for the letter. I own 3 sets of clubs and not one of them is lofted as high as 50 degrees for a pitching wedge. Even my weakest lofted clubs have the pitching wedge as high as a 47 degree, every club I've ever seen at 50 degree goes to the A wedge category, or like my original comment a lot of people just call the 50 a gap wedge too
@shootitbw9115 Manufacturers keep messing with the lofts because they want to sell people a myth that they are better than what they actually are. If a set starts at 47 as a PW, then just take mental note that you're holding on to a 9 iron. I've seen ridiculous loft-jacking where they now claim 43 degrees is a PW... That's an 8 iron, stamped with PW.
@@dan8085 you are correct in that point. My dad still plays his Ping Eye 2 irons from the 90's, I think his 9 iron is lofted at 46 degrees. I think for my sets my 9 irons are lofted at 40, 42, and 45, which is a ridiculous range for the same club. I guess when it comes to wedges it's just something where people will refer to the name/degree differently, and yes because of what you stated about manufacturer influence.
