I use a harbor freight blasting cabinet and aluminum oxide media. I don't use a ton of pressure, maybe 25 or more lbs. Depends on the wedge metal. Some are harder, and some are soft.
How did you know what thickness of copper you need to fill the insert? I'm interested in this as a summer project so I'm curious how you would kow that before pulling out the insert. Thank you in advance!
The ferrule? You typically want to remove and replace. You could heat it a little and slide it up the shaft away from the head. Then replace once cooled.
Does the face finish lasts long? Won't it get rust quickly? I've seen videos with some kind of electric treatment (I thought it was needed for the refinish to last longer). Thanks!
@@bradreef Yeah I imagined! What about the face? I am from Brazil and I am thinking on doing these refurbs for my clubs (golf clubs are very expensive here).
I normally grind and polish the whole club face. Not too much at the grooves area, they still should be present 😅. After taping and sandblasting the grooves area the club face looks like new and the sides are still shiny.
I tried it on a vokey SM5 but I got a very blotchy Wedge. I guess this could come from the nickel or chrome plating. Maybe I haven't removed all of it. The blotchy parts turned blue very fast but lost the color later on. Maybe you have some hints for me.
@@bradreef thanks for replying. I don't get any helpful information out of your "plated wedge refinish" video. It shows no Infos about torching and nickel or steel.
Sheesh guy, if it were me I would be wearing a protective leather glove, at the least, to protect my fingers from an errant grind / sandpaper skin gouge or scrape. Second, I also try to stabilize the club head by inserting into a grip wedge inserted into a vise. Otherwise, another "dime-a-dozen" vid on golf club refinishing. Anyway, thanks for your time and work, still informative.
For buffing, try starting with a denim wheel and then final touch with a cotton wheel. I know u said its not a showroom club, u could just even use the denim wheel and call it good.
If you wanted to torch just a section of the club what do you recommend? I bought some aluminum foil high temp tape but it’s still not strong enough at Max 200 degrees
Hi can I check with u isit possible to tape up the areas that doesn't need to be nickel plated before soaking in for electroplating? Cause am thinking to restore some irons clubface /grooves area only rather than the whole club as its only the sweetspot rusted and chrome wear off .
Tell me you’re scared of sparks without telling me you’re scared of sparks… nah I was scared before myself after a few spark showers you realize it won’t burn you
anther tip: you can use a Groovex tool to sharpen the grooves back up, which the Groovex one specifically will get the grooves to the maximum allowed depth and width as it is specifically designed to do this do to the garud system that is on it.
late to the party but words of advice.. invest in a portable bandsaw, and build yourself a mount for that belt sander for things like that. good way to get a finger sucked into it.
Use muriatic acid: 5:1 with water. 5 parts water to 1 part acid. Remember to pour acid into the water and not vice versa. If your country doesn’t have Muriatic acid you can use Root killer. Good luck!
Looks like fun. I have four wedges in my bag (present day set with lower lofts, 44° PW) Callaway set new 10 years ago. They came without any wedges, so I spent big on Callaway 56° and 60° and thought I was done. Later on I realized this left me without the 48°and 52° and was upset with the expense. Found the $25.00 Powerbilt wedges at Dunhams Sports and I like them best. Get em. They are excellent.
Thank you for identifying the 54 degree as a sand wedge, it's suprisingly odd how many people today (mostly new golfers) refer to a 54 as a Gap wedge, along with a 52, 50, and even a 49... I feel like people think the word "gap wedge" sounds cool or something, but it's just plain annoying.
@@dan8085 I grew up most my life not knowing that either. I always called a 54 degree a gap wedge too. Just based off the majority of modern day info I find on it, the 54 degree I guess technically falls in the sand wedge category. I didn't make this up haha, it's just what the overwhelming info out there suggests...
@@dan8085 also a 50 degree almost always now is called an "A Wedge", some going with the word "attack" or "approach" for the letter. I own 3 sets of clubs and not one of them is lofted as high as 50 degrees for a pitching wedge. Even my weakest lofted clubs have the pitching wedge as high as a 47 degree, every club I've ever seen at 50 degree goes to the A wedge category, or like my original comment a lot of people just call the 50 a gap wedge too
@shootitbw9115 Manufacturers keep messing with the lofts because they want to sell people a myth that they are better than what they actually are. If a set starts at 47 as a PW, then just take mental note that you're holding on to a 9 iron. I've seen ridiculous loft-jacking where they now claim 43 degrees is a PW... That's an 8 iron, stamped with PW.
@@dan8085 you are correct in that point. My dad still plays his Ping Eye 2 irons from the 90's, I think his 9 iron is lofted at 46 degrees. I think for my sets my 9 irons are lofted at 40, 42, and 45, which is a ridiculous range for the same club. I guess when it comes to wedges it's just something where people will refer to the name/degree differently, and yes because of what you stated about manufacturer influence.
Virtually, a great job. In theory however, wedges are specifically engineered with precise bounce, toe angle, drag, etc… in mind. The balance point and center of gravity is being altered by removing even millimeters which is evident based on this video. It’s just an overall aesthetically pleasing process, but performance wise, you are far better off buying a new wedge. Even a bargain bin wedge will perform better than this if it hasn’t been sanded down.
Great videos! I have just bought old mizuno mx25 and I want to refinish the face (there are some rust and scratches). I have one question: on this movie I see that You only grind the front of the face with one snadpaper grid / manu grinder, you have also used bigger grid and polishing grooves after like rest od the face (but just dont show on the video) or for grooves You used only sandpaper about 100 and than blasting?
I have gone more aggressive on the face. It just removed more groove. you would want to use a groove tool if you sand the face more. I try and buy clubs where the face isn't too bad, maybe rusted, or the sole is dinged.
@skateboardingafter302 the goal on the face is to flatten the surface and remove wear. This will increase the sharpness on the grooves and give you a flat surface for consistent contact.
Great video. New subscriber! I have a quick question. I have an old TM Daddy Long Legs Spider Putter, and I want to refinish it with plating. My questions, what is the best method to remove the old paint? After I remove the soft face insert (I think I will need to boil the putter, so I can reuse the face insert. Impossible to find replacements) and the plastic piece on the bottom, can I have it plated copper as it is just cast metal? What are your thoughts on plating with this type of metal??
I would think that the bottom piece cant be plated. It is likely alluminum. I removed the finish and polished a bottom plate on a scotty golo. Best method to remove paint, imo is aircraft paint remover. Boiling is a good way to remove the insert. I would also look at my insert replacement video. A Mokume-gane insert would be next level.
I used a permanent vinyl stencil and a relatively low voltage (9v) but the vinyl started peeling off my wedges. I cleaned the wedge with isopropyl alcohol beforehand. I did use the transfer tape and tried to press the vinyl down but its still peeling. I'm also tapping with the cotton ball instead of rubbing. I'm trying to etch the lofts onto my new wedges soles so i can see which wedge I'm grabbing without having to look at the back of the club, such a pain to have to do that every time. Im cutting the stencils by hand so I'm wondering if there are small nicks in the vinyl edges that the water is getting under?
A deburring wheel is much better than a wire wheel. It’s blends the metal together and creates a “new” finish. Then with polishing, you basically have a new club.
I have been playing a Cameron Detour conversion with a copper face for a few years. It gives you a nice soft face that is great for fast green. Good luck with your Nike.
