ANOTHER MASSIVE ORGAN Project - Part 1 MIDI VIBRAPHONE 

Nice one Carl and Jamie! Thanks for the info and help. Yeah! Vids are always good even if just one take phone vids. Always good to document for whoever is interested in watching! See you guys soon!!

A lot of words

I thought those looked suspiciously like Leslie cabinets, only with the delightful blue color. Thanks to all who preserve musical history like this.

Thanks for the detailed comment!

I would watch your channel.

Ayyy...

Thats all I came here for ☺ 🤣🤣

Who can resist a massive organ when it’s offered 😂

and then I read about a vibranium phone

🤣😁

If you can get there, go there. It’sa good day out

Given his recent short, I imagine this means a lot to Sam. Kudos.

Brilliant idea LONG before Joan's Organ !!!!!!

@@andywatts8654 I live in Canada.

@@mastercylinder1939 that's a poor excuse. I live in NZ and I'm going in August. 😛

mike tghanks. my only experience with stepper motors have been reveryberant in their enclosure so i went away from it, but you recon thats the way forwards? im hoping for it to get quite quick too beyond in the video, would stepper still be the way?

@@LOOKMUMNOCOMPUTER Trinamic drivers work absolute magic on steppers - They use 64-256 analogue levels between each step. Would easily do the speeds you were doing & more and be completely silent.

@@mikeselectricstuff ok great news, ill get hold of some and report my findings! cheers. any suggestion on a good trinamic driver? or any one of the world wide web

If this were a 3d printer i’d said trinamic 2209 and an ldo motor. But that’s kind of the standard answer for that usecase, not detailed knowledge. Actually you might even borrow one from your Lulzbot to test it.

Cool, something to check out when building CNC machines!

Surely the note decays slowly, like guitar which you can also choose to stop, or instead any wind instrument that stops when you stop blowing!

Let me guess... its a 1 off piece lol 😂

Or in this case 1110 lol 😂🎉

Help me program 13 in the piano by number system... its a A note... i cant blast it high enough... i 5hink you can... just dont explode your soul trying to ram it higher!

Don't worry! We understand. (PS. An organ vibraphone is called a Chrysoglott)

@@JesseBadut14 Quite right ! Usually they are the same thing, just it becomes the Vibraphone when you switch on the motor for the rotating baffles. However for some reason in this case, Mr Stockdale had one of each !

The battle of Marbles vs Midi ...

@@Juttutin I mean with his recent obsession with "tight" music the logical conclusion will be to have the thing be a Midi instrument sans marbles in the end... (I've more or less stopped watching the videos since he started worrying about 1ms delays in note times)

Yeah same, his machine was looking so good and better then the first but it was the first that brought all the attention for being.. what it is.​@@SomeMorganSomewhere

Yep, I agree with all of the above.

I figured out the first 3, is the last one supposed to be 8008 (early Intel CPU)?

@@rick420buzz 👍

@@rick420buzz If you want to keep this sfw , then yeah ;)

@@rick420buzz Yeah, yeah. XD

Oh wow an Easter Egg that passed me by!

You should have seen the nest of wiring that was tacked on to these instruments in their last home .. Oh my goodness, anything Sam does is an improvement, believe me !

I love it that he briefly showed how he treated the previous organ 😁

Yeah it's cool but the dissonance is lovely too :D

It has a solenoid on that. I didn't mention is cus not as interesting as the wobblies

On the pipe organ side of these, you would quite often have an individual damper felt per note, with a seperate stop key that would activate a larger pneumatic to lift them all up at once, quite useful ! Some even had a "Half blow" feature, able to cut the wind in half, in order to soften things down even further.

@@LOOKMUMNOCOMPUTER Yeah, the damper should be a simple MIDI on/off; should be easy to do for a chap of your talents, Sam LOL! And having at one time gigged with a vibes player for a few years, yes you DO need to be able to program the damper as well. 😉

@@caddelworth it is wired in, i used it in middle of vid. just edited out the bit talking about it

Unfortunately I've tried this type of arrangement, and it's great up to a certain speed before it starts vibrating due to the resonance of the motor and the drive frequency itself, since it has to commutate the coils at higher and higher speeds. It's too bad, but you're stuck at lower frequencies.

yes. sadly its a big modification job. and would likely take the console too far away from its provinence. but who knows! maybe a sleaker less intrusive means will rear its funky head.

A very rare thing to see, especially on organs - however not something that doesn't already exist ! Moving keys on self playing instruments was as Sam has described in other videos, a very American thing. Not popular over here as it can harm repetition, however that being said, Kimball - the pipe organ builder in the states, and later electronic organ builder, produced a series of electronic organs that could play rolls, and these - had moving keys ! Very fun, but so rare in the UK, we've never been able to find one for our own museum. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-s9S4wzEfwpk.html

​@@LOOKMUMNOCOMPUTERgiven the current rate of progress, in five years there might be some slightly used but obsolete fully dextrous robotic android arms floating around. Not sure that's the right kind of (not) obsolete you're going for tho...

@@LOOKMUMNOCOMPUTEROk, how bout this. No permanent modification, not even a temporary one, just one you can use when you want it to play on its own. Make a wooden frame that rests on top of the claviature. That frame consists of an MDF board and two uprights that are its legs, but also go up as well (so in profile from the front, it would like a wide H). At the tip of each of the keys, on the MDF board, one hole is to be drilled, and one tube is to be glued in place. This tube sticks (again) both up and down from the MDF, and i'd say it should be one of those plastic electric conduits, but... it ultimately is tied to the coils you'd potentially use (be they hand would or already existing items, which is up to you). Now, you'd need wooden dowels to go through each of the tubes, and they should fit loosely inside and rest on top of the keys, protruding out of the tubes' ends up top. By how much, to be determined. The tips of these "sticks" should have cue tips (from billiards). That's a soft (easily replaced) surface that won't mar or damage the keys in any way. Next would be to add a C channel piece of metal up top (this has two purposes, it weighs the whole contraption down so it doesn't vibrate off and it's also robust enough for its intended purpose). Nothing too heavy tho, and of course, something you can bend. If you can't bend something like that, then it can also be accomplished from a plate of metal with angle iron on its sides. I'd say that the plate could be 1 mm sheet and the angles 2 mm metal one. On this plate, you'd need to drill holes above the sticks and stick springs to the sticks that only just keep the sticks off the surface of the keys. Then... we come to the relatively complicated part and actually where the project would start on account of the fact that you either have these coils already or have to make them to wind them, to suit existing tube you can find. The coils would stick over the tubes (at different height intervals if the tubes are too close proximity) and they would energize using a piece of metal tube that's either slipped over the sticks (which affects the pull power of those springs mentioned above) or the sticks are cut in half and stuck into the metal tubes. Each time you activate a coil, it pulls down the metal, which is tied to the stick which then pushes the key through its cue tip. In theory, you can have this move with quite a bit of accuracy when playing. In practice, a prototype should be build to test out just how much acting force you need on that spring, which is the key component of the whole affair. Visually, it wouldn't be too heavy on the eye, it reminiscences of the organ tubes in a way and it's also silent. So it won't detract from the organ with noisy activation mechanisms. If you tune that spring force perfectly, it won't affect the keys in any way as (potentially) a motor would (rolling key presser as some retrofitted pianos have). Just a thought.

I'm pretty sure most people know about adding protection diodes. But indeed. Cheers!

The drivers I use have them

Thanks for the info! Excuse my knowledge if wrong but I'm pretty sure servos, well the cheap ones I had are almost certainly brushed motors. I meant brushless purely from the point of a lower end kick but also high rpm with low noise. I want it to rev up and down via the digital input quickly and quietly but no need for torque. The first thing I tried was a brushed motor I had but for whatever reason it wasn't working so I switched to servo. I tend to work with what I have on the day. Especially when needing to finish projects for videos (like this) in 2-3 days postage becomes risky so I rely on what's in the drawers. As for the motor on the vibraphone it was a 230v geared motor so I'm assuming bus wipers used 12 or 24volt supply it's possibly not? I don't think it would do what I'm hoping I want to get up to atleast 300rpm on the shafts and slow as 20rpm I don't think that would Have done it. Also how bodgey it was and also the weight and mismatch of voltages. Trying to keep the whole room at the standard of 12v and 1 power input per machine. Anyway thanks for the thoughts! Think I'm going stepper motor. Cheerz.

​@@LOOKMUMNOCOMPUTER FWIW, the vast majority of the noise caused by servo motors is the internal gearing mechanism, because the tiny DC motors in there run best at high speeds, but results in low torque. The noise has basically nothing to do with the brushes or DC, so don't write those off. The setup is actually quite inefficient because you first have the internal servo gearing that reduces speed and increases torque(with resulting power losses), and then your external belt-driven system that then re-increases speed. I suspect the steppers will also be noticeably noisy despite fancy drivers, just because still at their core they are discrete, almost digital, devices and will have cogging noise effects. Hopefully I'm wrong!

Can you imagine it? What a fantastic idea!

That would have been way better than the absolute tripe they have come up with.

But you do have absolute control. Position isn't critical

No need uln2803's have built in protection diodes

@@LOOKMUMNOCOMPUTER heh I was going to comment on the good reason for keeping the diodes, but I was beaten to it and I see you have it covered anyway! The ULN2803 is a dream chip for driving anything solenoidal (if that's even a word :-) )

@@davechisholm9670 "Solenoidal"? Are you sure that's not something to see a doctor about? 🤣