Another saved from scrap! - 1984 Powerfab 1700x mini excavator 

Finally I can stop watching all the American repair videos! Keep up the content.

I think you will find that machine is probably from around 1990 or later. They started the 1200 with the Honda and Kubota engines in 87/88. They had a cracking 180C that came out in 88 also. The 125 WTD was then in its final version and was also spot on. POWERFAB were way ahead of their time in designing and manufacturing mini excavators. 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿🇺🇸

Save the old starter..and rebuild it. It will be a better quality starter once refreshed...I been doing my own starters and alternators since the 1970's...most are easy to repair....Brushes being worn is most common and cheap to replace yourself.... the rest takes some simple common knowledge in checking or testing / cleaning to refresh....bearings or bushings are easy too....Your " Cheap " new starter will be fine but they are cheaply made compared to older parts.... it usually costs half the price to rebuild my starters....or less if lucky....i even have a free test where i get my parts ( a Rebuilder Company that has many decades of business - like 75 years at least and not a auto parts store test - which is fine if you gotta go there ) ... and rebuilt parts from this supplier are better quality too than auto parts stores and similar pricing ( and superior warranty )...

Nice work saving the old iron, keep it up 💪👍

Keeper suckin Diesel great to see the we digger getting the full works All the best from Ireland

I have the same in genset. Those governor levers and their pins and and bushings are worn out and stick. Mech governor is inaccurate anyway. You need to spin the shutoff lever against spring when putting the cover back, otherwise it wont work.

That's the coolest logo I've ever seen!

Check for a broken spring in the pump cassette may be one or several broken causing the rack to stick an give you throttle issues

Adjusting the governor rather than the fast idle is where I would start. I think your on the right track but I am wondering about the previous owner. Are you sure the lift pump is not too powerful or that the return line isn't blocked? Both would cause over fueling and run away. I'd expect to see lots of black smoke if this were the case. The mechanical plunger type injection pumps don't need much incoming fuel pressure. 30 psi can cause problems. I ask because I think I heard you say the previous owner converted from mechanical lift to electric. Blame the last guy.

The screw you’re trying to adjust is the fast run stopper Try adjusting the two stoppers on the side of the governor housing(larger bolts with jam nuts ) I have a feeling someone else has tinkered with them too get more power . The bottom stoppers should adjust the maximum speed of the engine Cheers

Looking forward to seeing more on this machine I bought a old komatsu pc05 few weeks ago working a few issues my self 😂

Funny how that perkins looks just like a shibaura

Definitely a Govener issue fellas, great job. Look forward to the next episode 👍

keep it up guys love it

I'd would replace the shaft nylon bushing sleeve. On that revive limiter linkage that sets inside of the bracketry on it. Then lightly smear A dab of grease inside of it to for proper lubrication purposes only to allow the linkage and shaft to move freely inside of it.

My my so much to fix..but it’s 40 years old.. So much rust and many of the outside panels and hinges need replacement.. deep rust.. I think it’s time to strip it down to bare bone and go at it mate. That muffler is not kool as you said. I guess I will subscribe as you are going to be at this one for awhile. Ha.. I hope you get it all cleaned up and can use the little guy..

Nice one guys, loved watching this 👌

Powerfab we’re based in Ashvale Tredegar South Wales

Nice subbed excited to see this thing working!

nice one

Someone else has commented it, but maybe its that electric fuel pump is over pressuring the diesel pumps housing, and pressurising all the injector leak off pipes too, which is just giving you too much diesel injection thus the rev's are higher than it would normally be. You're probably the 20th person trying to fix this old girl by now, thus why they starter is cooked etc. Sure will smash this though boys, good luck.

Nice to see this but I find it hard to believe an 80's model has a ln electric fuel shutoff. I'd say more late 90s

New pump costs around 700 euros.

I would try reaching from underneath to reach that bolt over removing a Hydraulic line ..i remove whatever needs to be done to make work easier but try to minimize work when possible too... meaning if i can do it a quicker way i will at least try that...but some jobs are easier and faster by removing stuff in the way and can make the work less frustrating too ... i been wrenching for 50+ years ( everything from 2 Wheels to 18 wheels , Gas & Diesel ...)

Your old starter might be ok still...You had Loose wire connections at starter..which can cause poor connection along with corrosion / dirty terminals...I would have tested it off the machine - connect a jumper cable from a good fully charged battery to Positive terminal and the Negative jumper you ground on starter body ( something clean ) and see touch one lead ( negative is easiest ) and see how it works without a load....then put it back in engine and test again - with fully charged battery , clean connections ( clean all including solenoid ) and see if it spins fast? if sluggish it will need a teardown to determine the problem(s) it has....

You need Super Clean connections from your Battery ( make those on battery Clean too ) , Battery cables and connectors , and Starter connections ( studs , nuts and washers ) to get a solid strong Voltage / Amperage..Plus a fully charged and Strong ( Amperage output ) Battery to really know how your Starter is working....Even dirty/ corroded jumper cables or corroded battery connectors at battery posts can make you think you have problems ( weak batteries or bad starter ) that are simple fixes ( cleaning all connections is just a simple step in maintenance )... putting one battery in vehicle and a second battery jumping that battery can also help spinning a engine if you have weak batteries ..nothing a charger couldn't solve if you take the time to charge it ( automatic chargers are cheap now )...

I just found you channel and subbed, it looks great. Do you have any Bristol Crawlers?

Is that an Oliver hg 45 the yellow tracks on the left?

Good ☹🇬🇧

i have jcb 8015 with exacly this same engine and i have exacly this same problem what in this video. i checked everything pump and plays in the lever even inside and everything is ok. what i did is i put the spring strong enough to keep the lever to the right side and the machine is working but i think there must be better solution so if u find this please make a video . thanks .Polish Pete

I didn't know about the UK law that prevents the use of temporary covers over the injector outlets which (if used) would prevent dirt, dust and very tiny insects from ending up inside the open holes and shortly after that inside the injectors. I have been breaking this law for years by protecting my work with sticky tape and cling film. Does this law also apply to open injectors and the pipes?

Bad internal pump seals/bushings

Ex Welsh Water.

You should properly wash the machine before start to repair and also work in a real workshop not on the muddy ground