OK so I'm so insanely diggin this and I had never even seen anyone do this on video so thanks for your content and now will binge watch more of your videos witch I already watched the 1 and 2 of your G town clovis that was awesome.
This is how I mainly work (though with red and sika rather than moose), so it's really nice to hear your thoughts as you go through the process. Cheers
Marty, hope you are well buddy! So I recently found an interesting Native American artifact made of a sturdy, fairly heavy piece of sandstone and I am wondering if it wasn’t used in a knapping tool kit. Maybe either as an abrader or for late percussion work bc of its weight and grippiness. Of course, it’s missing the business end so identification will be tough but maybe you’ve seen one before…You mind if I drop you a couple pics later ??? Thx champ!!!
I really enjoyed this video. You pointed out some great tips! I probably would have tried to power through that limestone pocket at the base and messed up the preform. I like that you emphasized strategically working around those problem areas and having enough flint to carry the flake around. A++ flintknapping tip 👍
Yo! So I forgot to mention the billet video. I was so happy to see you bust out your moose billet. Gives me a chance to see how it’s supposed to be done…I notice that there’s nothing pretty about the early billet work. Then, every so often you get a shot at a perfect huge flake that does a ton of good. Then it’s kind of backing to beating the cortex off and then another great platform! Don’t know if that’s what you’re counting on or not but seems to be the case. You really dealt well with the concrete pockets. Crazy how controlled you are…I finally chipped my first 100%(both sides…really 200%) clean preform! Not one step bro!!!
Hey buddy! Thx for getting back to me although it wasn’t necessary. I felt stupid for asking if any rock being available anywhere. This channel takes up enough of your time already, so rude, selfish questions like that just aren’t appropriate. For that, I’m sorry…anyway, back to knapping….so explain why every once in awhile I’ll have a flake that comes off super scoopy with my moose billet. The flake ends up way too deep, usually has a circular shape and has edges that don’t feather out in any direction. Kind of like someone took a round cookie cuttter and pressed it straight down. Is this too much ‘in’ on the hammer stroke or what???? Thx ahead of time brother!!!
I'm getting a bit better using just ABO tools the horizontal punch is a big help yet to find the good a good shaft. With my regular antler strikes and reduction I tend to over hit the piece making a huge divot in the biface or causing a bad step. Is there a best way or a good way to not over hit the piece? I'm pretty accurate with my hits and then it's bam too late.
Hey brother! Hope you are chipping like a maniac through this shitty cold weather!?! Quick question….do you know anyone selling quality chert anywhere??? My truck is down so I’m stuck in town….totally rubs……( Thanks for your help buddy!!!
Sorry for the delay. Ive only bought rock from vendors a couple times. I either collect it myself or network to trade in person where I can look at stuff. Seems like I’d be the guy to know but I’m really not.
I'm just picking up knapping and this is the 3rd. of your videos I've watched. I picked up some good tips but your camera framing is centered on your wrist and forearm rather than the blade. This aim point works when you're using indirect percussion but important details are out of frame during direct percussion and especially when you're looking at the edge. We need to know what you're looking at and where you're striking to learn the what, why and the results.
You don’t want to use a round hammerstone. Go to landscaping yards or steams and grab a bumcu if different sizes of grits of grabby hammerstones and have a go. They’ll get round eventually. I need to collect more because I’ve given away so many my stock is low. It’s important for knappers to source and use their own materials Imo if you have time and are physically able.
They used antler billets but probably not moose. It’s a cumbersome tool with useful but limited range for most projects, and to my knowledge not a single one has been found. Smaller mass billets, yes.
Marty, the billets I picked up from Dennis have worked fantastic so far! Took a couple rocks to figure out the differences between the antler and the copper…but I’m already producing preforms thinner than any I made with the copper! Just wanted to say thanks for your help with the whole process!!
@KB did you recently get billets from Dennis? I ordered some rock from him awhile back and haven't heard a thing from him. He won't answer phone calls or emails. I've tried numerous times to contact him. Just trying to figure out what is going on.
Amos, I did order from Dennis. He has always been super about answering text or phone calls. It did take him a few extra days to ship the billets this last time but that seemed to be due to weather. Actually, now that I think about…I text him about 10 days ago and I never heard back from him….that’s actually a first for that….
I placed an order back in July 2021 for $200.00 of rock. I never got my order. I've called numerous times and emailed him about it. He and I used to talk on the phone all the time about paleo stuff. And I've been a long-time customer of his. I'm trying to figure out if he still is working or worried something happened to him. I haven't heard from him since June 2021.
That’s wild! He is still definitely around and he is still running the knapping business too. Wish he was closer bc I’d swing by there but it’s a poke from here. You want me to leave the number I used?
If I want to do this with a wooden(let's say ashwood) billet, should I: a) make the billet thicker b) make it longer c) both longer and thicker d) change nothing e) give up on flintknapping xd thanks for the videos, you are the best.
A weight forward wooden billet a little bigger than this moose will work on this stone this size. Probably would do a bit more hammerstone work to take the initial thickness down. Also building a pillow pad that’s a bit higher helps w wood to get some more inward.
