Just finished building mine, my first 3D printer. I was seriously impressed with both the booklet and video instructions as i had next to no experience in this area, am having a blast printing rn. A great new hobby! Thanks for your review :)
liam Here is the good and the bad. I do like this printer so far. The upgraded version they now sell goes together in about 2.5 hours. Instructions were very clear and easy to follow. Quality of materials/parts and tools was very high. However, I did run into 3 issues with the printer. The first was step 3 attaching the effector head to the carriage, I was given the wrong packet of screws (pulley version vs my linear version). Simple fix at hardware store. Second issue was that the plastic bits between the carbon rods and the ball ends, 4 of them snapped because the plastic is cheap. I used special epoxy to fix it and finished the assembly. Third issue was a kinked bowden tube that pinched the filament and made the extruder skip. New tube will arrive tomorrow. Otherwise everything else about this printer is great. I had it calibrated and leveled very quickly. I'd still recommend this printer even with the issues I ran into.
Hi devin im a big fan. I made a benchy on my anycubic kossel printer, and it looks great. I fount if you lit the cooling fan speed to 255 and the flow to 190% and the build speed from 100% to 19%. Its perfect, and the overhangs were flawless
yes but I don't want to spend a fortune to get my first 3d printer because I at least don't want it to fall apart on the second print. I do not care about functions or print volume, I just want something that prints under 250$.
Bought this printer for 300 on amazon, overpaid. Spend about two days putting it together, a month to load software and calibrating. learning experience for sure. A year later, this printed operated for combined month and a half. Heat bed broke, but can do without for pla. Replaced three heating elements and two temperature sensors. All replacements cost me combined 20$, with parts to spare. Worth it's money.
i’ve got the same printer. if you’re using cura, try switching to s3d. i don’t know why, but the results i get from slicing with s3d are so much better than cura. just remember to set the home offset 90mm in both x and y so it homes in the center of the build platform. happy printing, awesome video!
Really useful review! I've always considered getting a delta style printer. You can't really beat $200, consider my first printer was $1500, and that was considered crazy low pricing then!
It looks like this might be a good "first timer" 3D printer. I have a few questions about it: 1) Does the manual explain all the settings pretty well, and how to use them? This really helps for the greenest of newbies, as they won't have to learn by trial and error alone. 2) What kind of filament does it use? It doesn't look like it *has* to be proprietary, but for those on a budget, needing to buy one specific filament from one manufacturer can get expensive. 3) Do you think this would do well in higher-volume areas, such as a classroom? This price point seems like it would be friendly for teachers of STEM fields, since they could more easily raise funds for at least one Anycubic Kossel within one school year.
+D Kecskes you can use any filament. The manual doesn't explain slicer settings, but it gives recommended values... Trial and error is a part of the experience for just about any printer
I concur with the person that asked for a beginner's guide. I have just finished building my Kossel Mini by AnyCubic. I have printed several little things, but the quality is poor. This is my first printer and I love it, but not knowing anyone nor having ever touched one of these, I am stuck trying to adjust things that I have no idea of what they do. I did determine that the "free" PLA in the box is junk (after jamming and nozzle clogging. I got a roll of petg and it is much better, but I am getting the occasional "bugger" that gets incorporated into the part and then the nozzle trips over it causing problems. Not sure what to do about that. I decreased the 100% filament flow to 95%, but that didn't seem to improve things. There are so many potential adjustments confronting me that I get brain lock
I have bought that anycubic printer about 5 months ago but due to my lack of knowledge on 3d printers, i couldn't load the files onto the printer and then while is was tinkering with it it died the Chinese manufacturers/sellers have been next to useless to get me back on my feet to fix it. I'm positive that if you are patient and read the instructions very carefully you could receive great results
I mean took some time to calibrate, had some frustrating times, and did upgrade the fan duct, but at the end, worked with satisfying results and overall happy with my decision to buy. Maybe my standards are low, but I think the printer is ok+ machine.
If you haven't already calibrate all steppers including the extruder and also PID Tune the hot end, If they are out that will also cause banding, zits etc on prints. Worth making sure everything's tight and calibrated BEFORE messing around with anything else especially PID tune as it can make a hell of a difference between crap/good prints
I just bought that. I was looking for a starting delta printer since a while ago but, pretty much all of them, had a poor printing quality. Thanks a lot for the advice. By the way, I used your code, keep it up with the work you're doing for this channel, you're doing great.
Hey Devin, I'd like to slide this idea by you to see if you want to do anything with it. Jointed 3-d pen models, the joints being printed, or (you could mention it in this hypothetical video) made of LEGO action figure pieces, if you're not a designer. I think this would be a great way to make your pen models posable and combining two methods of creating.
I have almost the exact printer, just with linear rails instead of pulley. It prints and prints and prints. I have built two deltas and this one was the easiest, by far. Good instructions.
I am built the Anycubic Delta Plus. It was working well but I had to change out the nozzle. Now I have been getting a heater runaway error. The bed is steady at 70 degrees but the Extruder will heat to 195 degrees and hold for a while, but then reduces to 184 degrees then errors. I have replace the Thermister as well as the Thermistat on the head. I have also changed the Fan Duct. Some people on RU-vid say turn off the safety settings. I don't think that is what I should do?
My goodness ive been researching beginner printers for almost 2 months now and i have a list of about 8 printers i have to research further in the next 2 days before i finally order my first printer hope i finally find the right one!
Overtplayer26 i ended up getting the ender 2 mini cause most sites i tried buying off of was being stubborn and wouldnt let me buy anything so i had to use amazon
This would benefit A LOT from linear advance from Marlin 1.1.9! Also, bridging is superior with Slic3r than Cura for some reason. Esp. if you reduce the bridging flow a bit with some materials. Slic3r Prusa edition is dope, it has gyroid infill among other things.
Would you recommend this printer for a beginner? And have you did a video on a 3d printed phone case? Also if you made it bigger can you print taller objects?
Excellent video. I've got a question : during your test did you have an issue while printing large piece ? I've got some part that don't stick to the platform and the printing screw...
OMG! finally! thank you! this looks so nice and good. its cheap, quality prints and free shipping.(My family doesnt really order from USA because the shipping cost is MORE than i would pay for the thing)
i guess thats why you build things yourself haha. its so cool how much better things turned out after that basic fix of tightening screws, rather than adjusting firmware, etc.
I had a similar cheap delta printer but it didnt work nearly as well. Those nylon shower roller wheels are pretty bad for linear motion so if you want to go wayy faster, do less maintenance, and have better prints, switch them out with some Hardend Steel MGN12-1H-L400 Linear Rails and print new carriages. Printing at 100mm/s is much better. :)
Hello, thank you for the review. Would you recommend this for a first printer? Would you share the adjustment settings for that last print that looks awesome? Thank you!
Excellent review! What settings did you adjust in marlin to make the cube closer to 20 mm? I have to scale my x and y for every print for tolerances and would really prefer to fix it. Thank you so much, Justin
You should possibly do a video on 3d printing accessories and other things need to get started like software and other helpful things like calipers, heat gun and spatula :) I would be interested at least :)
Thank you, nice review. I bought it after i watched the video, but what filaments you recommend to use with this machine.. i never used 3d printer before so what you recommend me to use ? Appreciate your help
The cube method isn't good at actually getting your prints to the correct scale, since it does not compensate for things like overextrusion etc. What you should instead do is print a better calibration piece (e.g. a ring) where you can measure both the inside and outside width.
I have this exact same printer, I agree with what he said but he doesn't say that you can't print more then a 100mm radius on the z and x axies and also it's a pain to level the bed
Hi, your videos are really awesome, i have the Kossel Linear Plus, i have installed a BlTouch, not sure if it´s working fine. My question is: where can i find information about what to change in the firmware or how to change the firmware of this printers in order to make them work fine?
hey man great video...I have a question, you know the screws on the side of the pulleys, how tight are these supposed to be? I have tightened everything up including the belts and now I have a rattle coming from some where....printing is fine, just this dam rattle that's doing my head in, I don't want to slacken the belts off, thinking maybe I have tightened up them screws on the pulleys too much? thanks
try printing a better blower for the fan. the one that the printer comes with only gets one side of he print head so try one of the circular blowers that goes around the entire print head
Thank you so much for this review this is going to be the printer I am going to get I was going to get the tarantula but the added height of this while it isn't as wide I like the smaller over all form factor of this as it isn't as wide . Height is less of an issue. Again thanks so much for this review because up until this point I had my mind set.
I'm was going to get the maker select v2 it has 200 x 200 x 180 building space and all the other components of this machine but now I'm considering getting this one but I'm not sure because the width is smaller
IIRC another youtuber had the same problems but found out it was because of the Cura 3.2 update had some issues, I believe he said 3.2.1 fixed the issue and made the prints almost perfect edit: it was version 3.1 , 3.2.1 also had the same problem
I bought this printer and I guess I got unlucky because after 2 weeks of printing my models, the motherboard/arduino stoped working. Still trying to find a replacement that wont brake the bank :/
@@marcobarros4742 try and keep 100% positive feedback as good feedback is really important. Just keep going, finding new models and soon you'll be earning quite a bit!
Same, although its printing right behind me right now. I don't know how everyone is able to print with these things without at least some minor modification though. Mine kept heatcreeping till I coated the hotend with as much Red RTV gasket maker as I could fit on there and put some thermal paste on the heat break. Also the part cooling sucks, I mounted an old computer fan I had laying around on the side to help with that. I have some blower fans coming in the mail as well, I'm planning on mounting them for more part cooling.
Duuuuuude, make stuff with voronois! And maybe look at modifying other people's designs from mini factory and thingiverse. Apart from that, blimmin love ya channel, and this video
Hey, I bought one of these a few months ago, and I’m just wondering, is there any way I can slow down the print speed? Would I have to go back into the programming?
Sometimes I have to remind myself that if I didn’t start with a cheap kit like the Ender 3 I wouldn’t _know_ what it is I want / need out of a 3D printer to know if I need something different/ better and in what way.
Can you check with Gear Best on your coupon code? I try to apply it and it says it is expired... I might try this for $169 but I can find the same kit for less than $200.
Which one would you recommend between this Anycubic Kossel and the Anet A8 (Prusa i3 Clone), considering that they have almost the same price? I know that have two different kind of structures and different way of functioning, but which one is better for a newbie in 3d printing?
Hi, thanks for your review. Can you tell me, how long did it take you to print the acorn. .... And can a person make their own designs- and print that?
Can you try mixing electronics with 3d printing? For example a 3d printed RC car or something, that would be awesome XD btw love ur vids been subbed since the start and always will be
I have heard a lot of complaints about buying from Gearbest and I was wondering if anybody had experience buying this product from there. If so, how was your experience?
Sir, could u please share me what exactly did u modify the firmware? I'm having trouble with setting Z offset, it gets too low after auto leveling and hit the metal heat bed (left some marks already )