Thank you very much! I was already starting to regret having bought the printer too early (the new version already has heat bed and auto-level). The biggest problem is that there was no heated bed that was 200 mm, they were 220 mm, but now I see how you mounted it.
Great tutorial - one thing I think should be clarified though is that the thermistor for the heated bed needs to be connected to the board next to the thermistor for the extruder, specifically at the port labelled T1. The order of the positive and negative wires makes no difference.
I went through several videos before I found yours. You answered my question of how to hook the external power supply to the controller board. You confirmed what I guessed, but I was hesitant to cause a bright blue flash and a curl of smoke, so thank you very much. In the morning, after church, I will finish up my wiring.
Hi Eric! Could you please try to update the part list? The heated bed & the power supply links are not available anymore... it would be really helpful! & keep this video useful after 3 years!
Unless I missed it, you never said how to enable the heated bed in the firmware? Just did a similar upgrade with a slightly different power supply and mosfett, but having trouble with the firmware.
I have a question watching your video connecting to MOSFET out of the motherboard you have two 12 V coming out did you connect above 12 V to the MOSFEL I sent you connect only one which one was it
The insulation tape provides a safety barrier for the controller board. I ran it for about a 2-hour print with the bed at 60 degrees Celcius and felt underneath there and it wasn't too warm. You could add a 40mm fan underneath pushing the flow of air on the control board. I honestly don't think you'll need to though.
I have seen people adding a fan to make sure the board doesnt heat up. Other solutions I've seen is that they mount the board and screen at the top of the printer but that means that you have to buy long motor cables to reach does to the bottom of the printer
