Looks good, you need to make sure you brush it evenly as any areas not fully covered show up when it dries. Here is an image you can see top right corner of the hatch is not as thick as the rest and it shows in various lighting conditions. drive.google.com/file/d/1VzeZvIM9UIKM3TieQcq1H9uq1kEmwedz/view?usp=sharing
Excellent video, Thank You. if you have a wing for example that you want to have both some areas in raw foam and some covered in film. Would you E6000/Toluene coat the whole wing then apply the film OR iron the film onto the virgin foam only and paint the mix on the remainder of the wing after the film fixing?
Hi Stevie I wrapped my wings with Oracover and before ironing on the film, gave the wings a light sanding with 1500 wet or dry paper applied wet and then paper towel dried them and left them for 24 hours to fully dry out. I then applied a thin coat of Oracover ahesive with a small fine paintbrush and let that dry. I only E6000 the fuselage and hatches and I would not advise trying to iron film on top of this. I hope that helps.
I’ve learned so much! I will definitely be doing the toluene/6000 treatment to mine! Are the servo arm “covers” a sonic model item? My 1000 does not have them. They look nice and seem to add some protection. Where can I get them?
The E6000 coating is well worth doing unless you only fly on really nice grass. I designed the servo covers and below is a link to all my AR Pro designs so help yourself. drive.google.com/drive/folders/17t3lpjY4qtXzLaUs8LDEDZR_ZOllKTfk?usp=drive_link
Great to see your progress with foam coating Glen. I'm not sure I'd want the faff and hazard of using Toluene. Did you weigh all the components before you coated them and again afterwards? I'd be very interested to know what the overall weight gains is. When I fully coated an EPP fixed wing plane with Beacon Foam Armour I noticed that the craft had gained 120g in weight over the original 700g. As a lot of surface are is behind the Centre of Gravity, I had to move the battery forward and add 60g of weight to the nose to restore balance. This has significantly detracted from the great fight characteristics of the uncoated craft. On a positive note, misting over the Foam Armour with acrylic clear coat has totally stopped the tendency of the Foam Armour to streak when re-activated with water from wet grass landings.
Hi Dave sorry for late reply had man flu. I did not weigh it before and after but will on next build which I am starting this week. I weighed a full tube and the one I used with the toluene mix and it was just under 40 grams. The finish looks good and it seems to have worked very well but only a field test will determine the final verdict. CG was pretty much unaffected and I had no need to move anything around or add weight.
I really have no idea Andrew I didn’t know that people used varnish. E6000 is flexible and forms a tight skin around the foam when it dries. I imagine varnish is brittle when it dries and will chip, but I am really not sure. Have you tried varnish?
hi there, i noticed your ailerons on the black wing are much wider? Have you found this to be a big improvement? I replaced mine with balsa but at the origonal size and still has the odd hairy takoff from the torque roll issue. Thanks
Hi Andrew, believe it or not the balsa elevons on the test plane are 2mm narrower than the stock ones, they probably just look wider because they are a different colour to the wings. This was not by design but because I sanded the leading edges a little too much. The ones on the new build are exactly the same depth as stock.
Ah ! Interesting video , something new ! Ive been using iron on film and it can be a pain to get looking good ....no ability to paint from what i know . Have you tried a layer of .75oz fiberglass ?
Hi Ron, I never thought of using fibreglass I thought it would be a little too heavy. I want to keep my AR Pro as light as possible as I like agile proximity flying. The E6000 method has proved to be very good on the nose of my test plane and been very resistent to abrasion and has prevented the foam from breaking up in a crash situation. It has also been easy to peel it off glue the split in the foam and then reapply a new coat. Also laminating such a complex shape as the an AR Pro fuselage was not teribly appealing and I didnt think it would look that neat or offer many more benefits over the E6000 option. I used Oracover on my wings as they are a nice flat shape and I use a single piece and wrap it around the wing. I use the Oracover heat activated adhesive and cover the wing with a thin coating of this, leave for 24 hours then apply the oracover over the top and it sticks like shit to a blanket.
@@bluefish3607 yea weight can be a problem . You have to really squeegee away excess epoxy or you can easily add 8 oz to a plane like xuav talon pro .but the ability to get good finish on curved surfaces is unmatched from what I’ve seen . I understand e6000 is flexible? That is important . Your newly glassed plane won’t make it past first hard landing with brittle epoxy . Thanks for reply
I find two parts toluene to 1 part E6000 works pretty well. But dependant on how thick you want it and weight allowance you can use less toluene. There are no hard and fast rules.
@@mertavcu1 Like I said it depends on your own requirements. Mix some up and apply it to a test piece to figure the best mix for your application, thats what I did and since that video I use different mixes depending on what I am coating.
@@zvonimirtrgovcic5499 Not sure they will ship to you but you should be able to find some locally. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/133949500697?hash=item1f30032d19:g:E54AAOSwN6lhpgfc&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA4LkVNNzTFSkpE0I0pTKbIzY4IeMrScfWgXyK%2FVaBnKbZUmhgXWrNUrH%2Fok5czJ3z7BEBqObC1aS4mZZWFVSTDK7LWUHyycmYoLOVkxIb9Aux8V3oRGqL5S5DujkdNkUvficV7g0paElJXg%2FTpC5vbhnPmW1JA%2F8nAISx8PGnbcgYMonNoJml1c9iAoFU8dqBmd8yregnXEick2%2FBXHC0l4cXQ4YuVjTqs%2Ba3GYOhgqhcNczlOM4sqxPClmP0l9ZDUNj%2FJ2DD1kVKYk0vYY%2Fl%2Fdk%2FRYP5EYO3UWgC2S0jvlAJ%7Ctkp%3ABFBM3qqA3oRi
The E6000 shrinks when it dries so but it doesn't increase the torsional stiffness very much, the thin end of the winglets are only marginally stiffer. What it does do though is protect the foam from abrasion and provides better surface area stregth which reduces the tendency for the foam to break apart on impact in a crash. I have hit the ground and a couple of trees pretty hard with my test plane and whilst the foam did split it did not shatter into multiple pieces.
lmao Caroline, when I was mixing in the Toluene I was sure that the tub was melting and it did freak me out for a while until I realised it was ok. So I can say that Morrisons Blueberry tubs are Toluene safe :-)
I forgot to ask most important question. How do you prep epp foam to remove release agent . I've always used denatured ethanol but I always have trouble with adhesion
Hi Ron both for laminating with film, Oracover or indeed preparing for E6000 coating I always rub the foam down with P400 wet and dry paper with warm soapy water. this removes the sheen and allows a good key for whatever you are vcovering the foam with.
@@bluefish3607 How kind!!!! Thank you. But I couldn't trouble you for the effort. I can make anything I want. But Deecal Dittos! I'm still stuck on why the Toluene doesn't eat the foam? I've got 4 foamies sailplanes needing treatment
@@Navigator777777 I put a link to the files below. Toluene is an active ingredient in E6000 or Goop glue which is foam safe, hence why thinning with toluene to brush onto the foam does not have any adverse effects. drive.google.com/drive/folders/19BGFhioTRlv1I6qybjz7fsurukartZMH?usp=sharing
