college is for suckers waste 5-6 of your life in college rack college tuition then come out owing thousands of dollars just to find a job that pays 60k a year. Lol fuck college I got out of high school and went to make 160k-190 a year.
@@wardaddy3249 man you are a freakin loser It's better to be educated and make less money than being very rich without any education or college degree You can't compare a poor doctor with Some wealthy un educated fucker that Educated people will always be better
Not that anyone will even see my comment, but I absolutely say find the budget for an SSD, period. Get a 250GB SSD for your boot drive and to hold your most commonly used applications and games. It is absolutely the biggest difference you wheel feel on a day to day basis using your PC.
@@SIDFAILBA Haha, I have a game programming degree and I've done a lot of IT work in my life. Cars, games, and computers are my main spaces. You'll also see me on h3h3 and such though. :P Besides, Jay loves cars too! He has a whole channel for it.
I remember getting a 1tb SSHD for my PS3 for $130 way back. Now you can get a 1tb SSD for the same price. I'd go for a 1tb SSD, 250gb just seems too small, that's just the OS and 2 big games.
@Sean Price even then though. 1 tb ssd are going for around $90 usd. So i wouldnt even both with hdd if you can help it. It's such a huge difference on pc
Step 1 : get a budget gaming PC Step 2 : get minecraft Step 3 : start a gaming youtube channel Step 4: make minecraft series Step 5 : earn money Step 6 : buy a better gaming PC with that money Step 7 : start playing high-end games Step 8 : get more famous
ME: - I need a new GPU. $500? Yeah, okay. - Wait, new GPU will bottleneck my old CPU... - New CPU will not work with the old MOBO... - New CPU and GPU require more power then my previously purchased "budget" PSU can put out... - I also need new RAM with faster timing... - Might as well buy a larger SSD... - EU has insane VAT - $2000 later...^#@#%^&%$%
If you're looking at a $500 GPU then yeah, you're in for $1300-1500 easy. I think you can do a quality R7 3700x build for under $1500 and that includes new case and p/s
Not really, if you got an i5 or i7 of the mid to high range, you don't really need to upgrade that for a long long time if you are mainly a gamer. That CPU will easily hold up 3 more years without issues. CPUs last for the most time until the need arises to upgrade, and by that time, you are due for a new system anyway. I had an i7 3770k until last month, never had any issues with it. All I did to the system was add RAM, and upgrade the GPU every 2 years.
marc kushin I built about 3 years ago with 6700k & gtx970. Still kicking. Msi Z170 MB stopped working a week ago and replaced with gigabyte b250. Still same performance. Built it for about 2k$.
Tbh, it really depends on what you're doing... I still use a venerable Xeon W3680 (Yup, this is Westmere from 2010...) and I now only do gaming and it's perfectly adequate for 1080p gaming paired with a 980 Ti. That being said, the upgradability of Intel systems is garbage so if upgradability is really on the table, there's really no competition, it's an AMD build and that's it.
So because he runs a tech channel and gets loads of cards to test and review and benchmark he’s no longer a valid source of budget options and explanation?
@@aaronhughes6392It wasn't meant as a slam at all. Sorry if that wasn't evident. It was just a commentary on the sheer dollar amount of graphics cards sitting behind him.
Makes sense. It sounds like a balance between: the CPU, GPU, Monitor, and RAM is what's needed. Don't go crazy on one unless you're planning on going crazy with the others. Is the take away I'm getting here. Both from this video *and* from my personal experience. n.n
There's a substantial gulf between the GTX 1050 and GTX 1660. But it's really only filled by AMD products, like the RX 570 and RX 580. Both are better choices for a budget build than an RX 590 or a GTX 1660.
@@inferiorexterior9335 And both are more expensive than the 580, so not really relevant to budget builds. The 580 is on the higher end of budget builds as it is.
@@inferiorexterior9335 And both are more expensive than the 580, so not really relevant to budget builds. The 580 is on the higher end of budget builds as it is.
Honestly, I can play all of the Arkham series perfectly @ 720p except Arkham Knight with my i5 6300hq integrated video. My laptop has a 960m, but if gaming on battery that's like 30w vs nearly 70-80w when using the 960m. It won't play the big titles but it will play the big titles from 2015 even. I was impressed for it being an integrated GPU. Fallout 4 is playable. It isn't as fast as my backup laptop's 460m, but it's very decent for an iGPU.
just a random guy who likes stuff you shouldve get a 100-200 dollar mobo, 16 gb ram and a i7 8700k. You probably couldve get a 1660 ti/vega 56 or rtx 2060
And the moment when u r on budget and you don't do proper research and buy a wrong gpu 😌 happened with me, bought a 1050ti rather than a rx 570 (same price)
I had a $3000 budget, my cart showed $2993.87. It was late at night, I didn't think it was a good idea to check out hastily so I slept on it. The next morning when I woke up I decided to change some things up. Ended up paying $3800. So much for budget.
10:30 Surely be important to note that you'd notice some difference with RAM speeds with AMD Ryzen because it is more sensitive to RAM speeds. 3200mhz will net you more frames than 2400mhz
Jeremy baker True! I upgraded from DDR4 2133 to DDR4 3200 with a Ryzen 2600 and especially in open world titels I have an increase of fps. Check for videos on RU-vid
on a budget, I'd probably go used. usually there's little to no platform upgradability, but they usually can be okay long enough that a more powerful platform will be available used. you can re use most of your non core components, like your storage, case, PSU, etc. it's really easy to upgrade the GPU so that kinda counts separately. a decent amount of the time you can even re use the ram, but not always.
I have a budget pc which had an MSI motherboard, Intel I5-3450 4-core cpu at 3.2GHz, ATI Radeon HD7770 1GB gfx card, 8GB Kingston RAM and a 1TB HDD about 8-9 years ago for about 650 euros. I paid 981 euros in total, but that included a 100 euro monitor, a Home Premium Win7 license (also 100 euros), mouse and keyboard and an extra 4GB of RAM (I found 8GB a bit too low). That was a system promoted as a pre-built budget-pc on gamepc.nl website (now they seem to be listed as Game PC Pro systems instead of budget-pc). I'm still using it today and just upgraded the gfx card to an nVidia GeForce RTX2070 8GB which costs me 460 euros. The system can now run every modern game at high detail settings without problems. It plays Ark Survival Evolved, GTA V, Far Cry 5 and such games at 80-100fps on highest detail. The cpu is still good enough and it has enough RAM (12GB) to work with. So budget pc's are definately not a bad choice. And I'm still not overclocking anything, risked it once, pc didn't boot anymore. Never touched it since.
I built a budget build a few months ago and now I’m already spending around 800 in upgrades, might as well buy good stuff in the first place tbh instead of replacing it because then you have to pay for both
Unfortunately the "Money Now" vs "Money Later" aspect is something that a lot of people overlook. It's certainly worth it to spend a little bit more now so that you have upgrade options later. You can still put together something with a reasonable budget, the key is to make purchase decisions that incorporate the modular nature of PC building. You might not need that much RAM now, but having free slots due to investing in RAM or a better MB means you won't have to replace all of it to upgrade. A good case won't really need to be replaced even if you upgrade everything inside. That said, 'budget' PCs are perfectly fine if you're building something that isn't intended to be upgraded, not every use case needs to be a gaming build or even running a full OS.
literally just built a new pc, aerocool bolt mini case, i5 9400f, gtx 1660, 16gb ram 1tb ssd, cyroig c7 low profile cpu cooler and an msi mpg z390m motherboard (with rgb cos im lame). Thought it was quite a neat budget gaming build.
I recently had to yank out a Zodac 1050ti mini to slap on a build I'm making for my friend with a Ryzen 3100. Works pretty well on some games (OW running 60+ on high, 100+ med and lower). Might take some tuning in the GPU and display settings, but for a $0 card on today's market, I'll take it.
well in my country , the most obvious choice was X570 UD from Gigabyte for 150 Euros since it has enough features and more advanced boards were from 200+ Euros and for less there was nothing amazing, well it is not Auros but it is good for everyone who don't need tons of LEDs and integrated "HD" audio, I have dedicated Xonar AE
I built a budget PC as it's all i can afford. I don't mind not having OCing I don't mind having a cheaper board as i'm not pushing to the max I don't mind needing to upgrade in the future if needs be Don't feel the need to buy more expensive parts if people tell you to, i'm satisfied with my build because I spent what i did (~600€ et this point) My only regrets are not getting an SSD out the gate. But for the most part i'm really happy with my build . (asus prime a320m-k mobo ryzen 3 2200g rx570 8gb 16gb 2400Mhz ram 1tb SG Barracuda corsair vs550 builder series PSU cheap ass FSP case that gets the job done) Don't get intimidated, but this video does have really good advice.
I always overspend on the mobo. I don't build a new rig very often so I want every feature I could possibly use in the future, which given enough time I will actually use.
I'm on the "cheapest rig possible" right now. I would not advise it. Turn some tricks, sell some blood... get the cash for better parts. I just ordered a $300 X570 board today; my next rig is not going to be junk.
Yeah, I wish components were as cheap as that in my country. Here's how the list goes. GTX 1660 - $600 to $700 "Cheap" Mobo - $100 i3 or similar - $250 to $300 Standard 8GB RAM - $90 to $100 EVGA 500w PSU - $100 to $150 250GB SSD - $200 This is the reason I can't even have a high end system as I'm paying premium for mid tier components . Imagine paying a whopping $2000 for an RTX 2070 or 2080
I saw a few vids where they claim it's actually pronounced Azoose and not Asus. But they don't make any sense since Asus has already officially said it's named after Pegasus which is Peg-Asus as you already know. Kind of like Titanium and the English always pronouncing Titt-tanium. Even though it's named after "Titans" not "Titt-tons" so it's annoying that they say that wrong.
@@CanadaBud23 Here's the video, the problem is the NA youtube channel are hearing what they want to hear and thinking Dr Suess has the American accent on it - even the comments are stating it's being misheard. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-hjjoGtXV6pY.html
Alot and I mean ALOT of people believe that it costs a TON of money to get into PC gaming and that's an unfortunate misconception. Infact i accidentally built a gaming PC for about $250. And im by no means a PC gamer. Infact before this build the last PC game I played was Oblivion back when PS2 was still popular. My build started off because I bought a cheap $50 arcade1up. I wanted to build something that could play every console from the original NES to PS2 games. So I took a old HP Compaq I had laying around for years that's probably worth $50 and I put a GTX 1060 6gb that I got on ebay for $100 and added 16Gb of RAM to the already 4 it had for like $60. And got a 125gb SSD (40) for the boot drive and 1TB HDD ($30) for game storage. Thats it. My Arcade1up can now run games better than the PS4pro. I even bought the newest PC game just to test what it could do and at the time was DOOM Eterneal and it could run 60fps on all ultra nightmare settings at 1080p. (The arcades monitor doesn't quite reach 1080p and is capped at 60fps) it can also run GTAV with the NaturalVision MOD. Same, 60 fps no lag what so ever and on all max settings. And cheaper than a PS4pro or Xbox 1.
@JayzTwoCents Ram speeds do matter for gaming, especially on AMD's ryzen CPU's where you see a 10-15% general gaming improvement by syncing up the ram frequency with CPU.
Unless you actually need a pc, no your better off with a Xbox One X or Ps4 Pro, and the next gen consoles will offer even more value but ultimately they are a one trick pony, whereas a proper gaming pc is usually a great workhorse too
At first when I saw the success Jay has attained from reviewing tech I thought this guy has the dream job but then after watching a few videos I realised hes a 40+ year old man acting and talking and dressing like a kid which he has to, to appeal to his audience which will be under 25 probably well under 25
I searched a gaming buget build and your newest video is a year old! so much has happened since then ! My gf wants to move from Xbox S to PC and i need help :P
Step 1 : get a budget gaming PC Step 2 : get minecraft Step 3 : start a gaming youtube channel Step 4: make minecraft series Step 5 : earn money Step 6 : buy a better gaming PC with that money Step 7 : start playing high-end games Step 8 : get more famous
You can, but you just have to wait a few minutes for something that would take seconds. Grab a snack when you open Word, make a frozen pizza while waiting for a game to load, brew some tea while while waiting for Chrome to open. How are you suppose to eat anything when there is no waiting on a m.2 NVME SSD?
It's true, though, if you're "poor" then buying a "decent" computer and then buying a new GPU every 3 years from then and buying new mobo/cpu every 4-8 years and replacing ram/hdd/psu as necessary is how you "future proof" a machine... You just buy a massive case that will last 20 years of swapping out the parts that need it. It's like how a rich and a poor person maintain a car, poor people repair their car, change the oil, get new tires... Rich people just... buy a new car every year.
Let me give you hope, watch the next minute and listen carefully. He talks about better pairing. There is someone more compatible for you out there bud
Actaly i have pci ocupied It is find on low end mobo for potencial corporate usability I was actualy thinking buying some old sound card for pci, but driwers are problem,..
SoubdBlaster Audigy SE here on the PCI slot! And no, onboard is NOT better it sucks ass compared to it. And yes, if I had money (and the need) I would use a PCIe one (since fuck this extra USB hanging around for a DAC), but that's what I have and won't replace unless in extreme need, so a PCI slot is always welcome for me.
I still use my 20 years old sound blaster on pci slot coz my onboard sound broken. I love pci slot. And I always look for full size atx. Never bought m-atx
@Stale Bagelz What cars are less than $1000? Are you talking about cars from 1982 with 600000 miles on them? because you can get a PC from that time period for less than $1000 too, doesnt make it a good comparison.
@@aquagiraffe1988 You can get a car from year 2000 for under 1k. That said a well looked after car from 1982 will get me around town, to work etc, just fine, an unused computer from 1982 is a giant paperweight. I'm going to stop thinking about this before I get a nosebleed lol why is life so complex
If you go second hand market, it's not that hard to build a computer for under $600. I built my system back in March for just over $550 and runs every game on Ultra at over 60fps. I only just found out that my 1070ti supports ray tracing a couple days ago and haven't had the opportunity to test it on my system but I don't think ray tracing is a necessity for gaming.
I'm not sure if Jay forgot about it, but getting a good quality power supply is important. Like everything else on this video, don't buy cheap. The power supply is usually the most overlooked component, because it isn't as fancy as the rest of the components in a pc. If a CPU or GPU is faulty, then you can switch it out, and everything is hunky dory. But if a PSU is faulty, it could potentially fry your entire system. You don't have to get a super expensive one, or one with 1000W+, but stick with well known brands that have good quality products. I'd personally pick Gold certified or higher, but as long as the model has a good track record, then you shouldn't have to worry about it too much.
To get a rule of thumb. Look for quality and for capacity. You might want to go bonkers on overclocking or go for the sli or crossfire setup in the future. You just have to have the capacity. Go short on the capacity of your PSU and you will most likely pay for it in the future, especially in a so called budget build. GPU's can easily be switched out, but the power hunger of every next gen card is growing like wildfire. And you see that in other parts, too, like CPU's.
@v KEITH v 80+ Gold should be standard today and you can find them cheap, sure higher efficiency is only worth going over if you have a really thirsty system. I always check warranty on PSUs, 5 years at least and they usually use good parts and you can find very good reviews at JonnyGuru that check EVERYTHING inside and out on PSUs so you don't buy junk.
@v KEITH v People are going nuts, i have a 8600K and RTX2070 overclocked on a 450w psu, not optimal for efficiency or noise but it dosn't spin up that fast. People tell me i need 650w lol i don't have a i9 and a 2080ti :D
I have an RM1000i powering an i7-4790 (non K) and an RX480. I got a good deal on it and I wanted something that can power my rig passively with no issues while stuffed into a small case with not that much airflow and, most importantly, when covered with panels to stop coil whine if necessary. The option to check the temperatures via USB came in pretty helpful when I wanted to know how well it was doing. Since I stick to used parts at good prices, I wanted the option of powering an overclocked inefficient high end CPU and GPU if I got a good deal on one in the future. I used to cringe at builds with PSUs this overkill and never expected to do it myself one day. When I saw the other coments I though I might as well let you all know freaks like me exist.
A budget build isn't about saving money. It's about working with the capital you've got. People know it'll cost more in the longrun but that's the price you pay for playing a few games now rather than waiting for years.
Budget building is exactly what you said. Making a future proof build is probably the best way to go atm. Currently im doing a 9600k with a 2060 super or maybe a 2070 super and Im thinking itll last me 5 years at the least
@@PerciusLive Back in 2012 I think. I built a system with a 3570k and a gtx 670. I would still be using it if my psu and my motherboard didn't fail a couple of weeks ago. I got a 9600kf and a rtx 2070 super on boxing day. Hopefully I'll have many years of good gaming to come.
@@EmanVsEmmanueL this is me. My 670 let me play whatever I wanted up until last year when it failed. I never had a problem. I wasn't playing Rdr2 or anything, but I never had a game I couldn't play with atleast high graphics.
It's not even about saving money. It's about finding a sweet spot. Everyone who overpaid for a 1080 Titan feels really stupid. Never buy a GPU that no games will be optimized for until many years later when you can buy mid-ranged equivalent many years later and play the same games. Look at the specs for upcoming consoles. 90% of the games will be optimized for that. Build what you need to run those games at higher settings, resolutions, and framerates (mid-ranged shit).
@@cdreid99999 Try one of the less expensive NVMe drives out there if you have a M.2 slot for it and tight on cash...you will NOTICE the speed difference between it and a SATA SSD... I did. I consider a less than 30 second boot from power on to loaded up for 10 good :-) ... And go with 1TB or larger drives if you can...a terabyte will cost a little over 100... and remember the M.2 screws... not always included...
@@WaldherzRyzen 1xxx to Ryzen 2xxx was actually a jump in performance due to shrunken process and another year of fixes for teething issues. 8th to 9th gen Intel... they just used a different thermal material, overclocked it by 100-300MHz and repackaged it. Implemented a few firmware fixes for Meltdown/Spectre exploits. Was kinda pointless for anyone who delidded their CPU. (I own an 8600K so looked into it at the time). Looking forward to Ryzen 3xxx series coming out, need Intel to pull their thumbs out.
Unless like me you do your build only for them to make it obsolete a Gen or two later lol. I got the fx-8350. Its still going strong, despite a small bottleneck with my gpu (jusf got a gtx 1660), but there are literally only 2 or 3 fx processors above mine and ryzen uses a new socket type. And since I built mine when gddr4 ram was still newer and expensive I'll need new ram as well since I've heard thats all anyone uses and it isn't backwards compatible. Basically it doesn't matter who you buy from. Amd makes more sense because its more affordable but thats it. Either one could change sockets, esp if you want to keep your build as long as possible.
@@theuniverse5965 Where do you get that - The cheapest I Find are G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR4-3200 Memory $144.99. Where I want in case I want to expand later.
Joe B I found it on amazon... heres a link : www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3200MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0143UM4TC/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ddr4+3200&qid=1561263593&s=gateway&sr=8-3
@Richard Benoit FYI: On compatible PC's (8088/8086 clones) the turbo button was a common thing, mainly used to slow down in order to prevent timing issues with software that depended on cpu timing. That was in the 80s. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_button Swapping out a 8088 with a NEC V20 (or 8086 with a V30) brought back the timing issues because these CPU's were had a higher IPC-rate/was more efficient. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/NEC_V20 For 80286's a turbo button was very common.
you can build a NICE computer for 500. Ryzen 7 17 or 1800x, Used liquid cooling. 8gb ram, Used hdd and ssd. Should have enough left to toss in a used gtx 1060 or 1070. that will play any game on the market, the cpu will rarely if ever be taxed and it will be upgradeable for 5+ years and will likely be able to do anything you want it to 5 years from now
@@cdreid99999 getting a used hdd or ssd is just asking for early drive failure. With drives becoming so cheap it's just easy to wait until a sale and grab both a hdd and ssd for less than $120 being a 240 sad and 2tb hdd.
TL;DR; Buy things by considering which of them you can reuse them in later builds. This will add initial cost, but it will make upgrades cheaper in the future. After you've bought the components, make sure you enable XMP/DOCP to avoid boot issues, especially on Ryzen. Long version: There are things that you can also budget: ( My comments are in these ) - The case you get will be easily transferred over every cycle you get, so I would get a case that supports full ATX motherboards, even if I went with a mATX build. ( I bought a Antec 1200 v2 back in 2007-2009 and I am still using it, I've had to replace the fans, but that was for looks more than function. I am not saying you need the case to be expensive, but one with decent airflow and enough room will allow you to use it for multiple builds afterwards with no real issues. ) - The power supply should be the thing that you spend most of your time researching. The PSU is the thing you want to not be the weakest link, when the other parts are all that you can afford at that point. ( A bad PSU will burn everything else, a good PSU will usually just kill itself and nothing else. A quality PSU will usually also have a longer warranty provided by the manufacturer. ) - Initial system needs 400W PSU? Just buy a 550W or 650W to have more headroom in case you can afford to get a GPU upgrade. ( This will also help with avoiding PSU degradation by not pushing it to it's maximum at all times. ) - A cheap CPU cooler will be "an extra cost", but I would personally absolutely buy a decent air cooler that was quieter than the stock cooler. This is also something you can most likely reuse with your next rig. ( Something like the Cooler Master Hyper 212X will go a long way on both AMD and Intel, AMD being the top tier in cooler compatibility: sockets from AM2 to AM4 should fit the same brackets! And personally, the quieter the computer is under load, the more "premium" it feels. ) - If you get a motherboard and initially buy 2x 4GB sticks, you can just slap 2x 8GB sticks afterwards in there as long as they are the same speed and latency. ( I know, this is not recommended - but I've had many PCs with mixed manufacturer, model, capacity and latencies that have been fine with it. ) - Configure the XMP / AMD equivalent memory settings on your rig when you've built it! Especially on Ryzen! ( A buddy of mine had intermittent cold boots because the automatic timing settings failed 3 out of 4 boots causing the system to do double and triple boots until it found timings that were near enough. Fixed by applying RAM profiles in the BIOS. )
I used a single core amd sempron with gt210 and 2gb ram for almost a decade, around december 2018 I finally decided to upgrade my build and chose a budget Ryzen 3 2200g build. I live in India so even this 'budget' build is kinda expensive and counts as a mid-range gaming pc. So, I used that system completely satisfied with its performance in all games but I wanted to play newer AAA games so I saved up some money and bought a used Sapphire RX 570 Nitro+ 4gb and it works so well. I get around 50-60 fps medium-high settings on all recent games and that is more than enough for me. Conclusion? Getting a budget build is completely worth it but build it in such a way that it offers as much upgradability as possible. I first bought a GPU for my build and now I'm planning on adding another 8 gigs of ram or some more storage if needed
Builds are so expensive, and rx570 is more expensive than gtx1050ti! I kinda hate that whatever is in dollar is literally doubled and then sold in India. Honestly gaming laptops have better value but ofc upgradability and no sense of satisfaction for your build :(
Imo, I would say that one, on a budget, should at least get: CPU: (at least) one with 6 cores GPU: (at least) RX 580 w/ 8gbVRAM... GTX 1060 w/ 6gbVRAM... or stronger RAM: 16gb of RAM, dual-channel (8gb is not good for the future) Motherboard: no more than $100 Case: no more than $55 PSU: no more than $65 Drive: (at least 500gb) SSD or m.2 (I know HDDs are cheap, but leave them to the past) Would be a budget build that I recommend. With specs lower than this, you're gonna have to replace your parts so fast, it's not even worth it. Especially because the future is going to arrive quick (new PlayStation and new Xbox)...
The channel ram thing... You really want dual channel for amd. Also be very careful with choosing boards if you wanna upgrade to Ryzen 3rd gen. The b350 and motherboards below this can't support the +95tdp of the Ryzen 3rd gen.
@@ColdieHU safer than sorry imo, you buy a bit more expensive motherboard which will let you upgrade to the higher end of CPUs on the next gen. You won't have to buy a whole new motherboard once you realise that your motherboard can't support your cpu. If you wanted an r5, hold off until 3rd gen but if you bought everything except for the CPU and then realise that your motherboard isn't compatible with your cpu. You will then go through mild trauma (just being overly dramatic) I'm also waiting for Navi so crossfire board is also something I was looking for and the higher end motherboards have a better chance to have it supported. I mean you can't go wrong with this.
@@zawium this is AMD, they really do know how to kick your electricity bill. hopefully r5 is under 90 watts or else you will face the wrath of blue screens cuz you undervolted the CPU.(I'm not sure if blue screens will even come or it will just straight up turn off)
It took awhile for my hd graphics 820 to render the RTX boxes in the background. **Cries in 144p** Edit: HoLy CrAP GuYs THanKS FoR AlL ThE LIkeS IvE NevER hAd ThIS mAny BeFore
I'm sitting with quad-channel 2400MHz 4x16GB with my 5960X. Not sure I'd benefit at all from better. Already had my snake oil with the M.2 drives (my experience and testing = you don't need one for OS, work and gaming as there is no difference in load times anyway), so not buying into the bullshit again.
If you are on a budget and you buy ryzen 3, it wont fucking mater.... Literally, there is always a guy like you that doesnt think and just puts the "actually" comment.
@@TheUltimateBlooper I am curious. I only have experience with hard drives and low end SATA SSDs. Some M.2 SSDs such as the WD Blue are still only SATA and thus not any quicker than a 2.5 SATA SSD. M.2 only refers to the form factor for these models. Did you get SATA or NVME? If your experience was with NVME, then I think I made the right call with my 2.5 SATA.
A gaming PC build should start with the monitor. It cost much more to build a 4K gaming PC vs a 1080p PC. Half of the total budget should go to the GPU needed to drive the monitor you have.
@Brother Ares you're still right anyways, CPU imo > GPU in terms of priority. your CPU determines your overclocking ability and in general every day uses that could be restricted
How I do a budget build: Go to Ebay. Get a board like the msi x470 gaming plus for ~80 (use auctions and check their feedback. bid at last couple seconds) same with ryzen 1600, ~80. GTX 1060 6gb ~$130 (auctions) or with lower budget 1060 3gb is like $100 actually less I think. evo plus 970 m.2 $50 for 250gb. This builds an absolute beast of a system. Just make sure you have a 500w + psu, get a cheap case (I have an old cosmos II I got for $130 on ebay back when they costed like $300+ I now use it every time I upgrade as it is the most beautiful case I have ever seen and will be my case for life. If I didn't have that or the $$ to get one, i'd just go $20 or something on ebay for cheap case. I got 16gb of g.skill rijaws 3200hz ram for like $70 but you can go cheaper with that too, especially if you watch facebook marketplace for a few weeks. For my last build I got 24GB of ripjaws ddr3 for like $20 on there. FYI if you buy a used gpu I highly recommend new thermal paste. Mine was used to mine bitcoin and as long as the card works you're okay, just check the thermal paste immediately. Mine was running hot when I got it (~91C on benchmark) so I replaced the paste and now it's like 70C max OVERCLOCKED. If anyone has trouble getting a decent PC just comment here and I will help you out. I have been rebuilding my computer since the early 2000's and I always keep it fast enough to do everything I do (gaming, machine learning, web browsing, programming, video editing, etc.) and I really don't put a lot of money into it. I can help you get a beast PC for very little $$. Just reply here if you need help and when I see it I will reply back. Not selling anything just trying to help folks out who don't have a lot of $$ but want nice benchmarks for low $$
I have a GTX 960 4GB, Asus Maximus Hero 7 motherboard, Intel I7 4790K @4 GHz CPU, 16GB DDR3 ram I think (can't confirm, but I think it is), 80GB SSD, 2TB hard drive. I got this P.C in Sep 2016 so almost 3 yrs old now. I want to upgrade 1 part at a time. So what do you recommend I upgrade next.
@@mab2187 The biggest thing is usually getting an ssd, but that's good that you have one. 80gb is a bit small, so I recommend larger. If you're okay with 80gb ssd, then well it really depends on what you do with your PC. If you're like me, and use it for machine learning and 1-2 hours of gaming per day (or if you game a lot) I would get a 1060 6gb. It also depends on your budget, but i'd go better gpu. Otherwise, find out your ram frequency because a) a lot of people get high frequency ram but they don't set it in bios, so you may be able to raise it in bios, or b) you might have shit ram like
That board also does SLI, so if you could get another of the same gpu for a good deal you might be able to run them with SLI. I know nothing about this and have never done it, but if you google it do some research and make sure the cards support it and check benchmarks because it might be cheaper just to sell your card used and get a better one used. Just something to look into if you want.
I recently built my 1st gaming rig. Can you give me a good upgrade path so that I don't have to replace everything in the near future? Plan to upgrade after 5 yrs. Thank you. My current build is: I5 9400f Zotac rtx 2060 6gb amp Asus b360m tuf T-force delta 2x8 2933mhz Seasonic +80 bronze fully modular Cheap cube case w/ some rgb fans 250 gb ssd 1 tb hdd Asus vg258q 144hz 1ms 1080p
@@DocRye1228 I don't know the Intel technology as well as AMD, so i'm not sure how long your mb will stay relevant. You have a really good build. Every MB has limitations, and the hard part about replacing the MB is that you often have to replace the processor and ram as well. This is the case for amd so i'll just assume it is for intel as well. You can upgrade anything you want but the cpu and ram will be limited to your MB. If you want to find out any sort of (slight) bottleneck in the next few years, use something like novabench and compare your benchmarks to other systems. If a specific part is performing lower, like the gpu, or the ram, then upgrade just that part. Whenever you buy a part just look at your motherboard's compatibility list. Once you have the best cpu for your mb, that will probably be pretty solid for 5-10 years tbh unless some crazy new tech. comes out, but otherwise if you want to upgrade past that, time for new mb and probably new cpu and ram as well. Sorry i'm not much help, you just have a really good PC and it will still be pretty good 5 years from now :)
Seagate Focus Gold fully modular 450 W, got JonnyGuru's stamp of approval as the best in its price range. Good fit for any system not using insanely power hungry parts, lots of overhead for OCing medium budget parts. Works well with my R5 2600 @ 4.2, RX 580 Nitro @ 1517c/2050m.
i had a solid 30 fps machines fx 8350 and 1gb 650 ti and 8gb ram 1600 and it served me well for a few years the only new parts were my cpu and ram got the rest used. cost around 350-400 back then
yeah that ram i had back then didnt oc at all with the mobo i had. that system died a few years ago now. i had bought a used mobo on ebay was suprised that it had lasted as long as it did@@policecat225
Let me summarize: 1. don't pay for motherboard components you'll never use or can't use by stupid design 2. if you want to upgrade your RAM buy single sticks of higher capacity now to by more later 3. don't pair high end graphics cards with low end processors 4. buy a decent graphics card of mid-tier if you can afford it. They are good value and can last you a while into the future usually. 5. Do not overspend on RAM. Take the cheapest you can find 6. Choose storage memory according to needs 7. Buy cheapest case your eyes can take looking upon. I would personally add: 8: go with AM4 motherboard right now and buy a decent motherboard maybe even with some slight overclocking potential. That way you'll be able to upgrade at least 1-2 generations of CPUs and if they slow you down, squeeze some more performance out of them.
what do yall think about spending $30 on evga's midweek madness bstock sales? I ordered a 850watt bronze semi modular for $30 the only thing wrong w it was looked like someone started to peel off the evga sticker in the center of the fan grill and then realized they shouldn't because it was a really thick sticker with a ton of glue under it and returned it to evga or something, but I cleaned it up real nice with alcohol lol, hope it doesn't fuck my shit up
