Excellent comment from the Liberty Facebook group where I shared this video: 1. The keypad is not proprietary to liberty, it just has their name on it. Securam does sell the toplit keypads on their retail website. 2. External hinges allow 180 degree door opening, without a compromise in security. There are back side bars on the door that keep it closed if you cut the hinges off. 3. I would recommend getting the safe installed lower to the ground on something like cedar lath. The less gap you have under the safe, the better. The air gap is a must so the bottom doesn’t rust, but you don’t want to leave a ton of room underneath that allows a thief to pry the safe off the floor (like the considerable gap hockey pucks create) 4. The serial number is in two places on the safe. You should also keep your owners manual on the outside of the safe (which is the 3rd serial number your have). Then register your warranty with the factory. They can look up your name once you have registered and tell you your serial number. If you stamp a serial number into the body and then paint it with textured paint, it is extremely difficult to read afterwards. Companies like prosteel and national security did this in the beginning and had to move to a sticker so people could actually read the serial numbers. 5. The door actually is one piece of steel (sheet metal). It’s not continuous welded on the interior seams that are facing out. The door will actually do surprisingly well in a violent pry attack compared to any other equivalent price range safe on the market. With the current design of the military style locking bars, door frame, and door construction.... Liberty has managed to increase their pry attack time from the older previous equivalent Liberty safe counterpart centurion by 8x. That’s just by improving innovations in construction on the model and moving to the flat style bars. This is based on my personal experience with prying their safes open myself and being present on several occasions when other people have been attempting to pry them open. 6. The black trim on the end of the shelf is stapled to the shelf in between the two folded seams at the center. People who buy safes are funny about there being holes in the safe. They also think the doors seal up a lot more than they actually do. There seems to be a mantra that if there’s a hole drilled into the inside, that the safes fire protection won’t work as advertised. Because of this, liberty gives you the spot to install your own accessory outlet kit, or complete a hole to run power into the safe. On the upper end models they come with the outlet kit already installed in the safe. From my own experience, browning prosteels entry level Chinese product looks slightly better than liberties if you compare SOME finished trim items. However, browning prosteels functionality and security features leave a lot to be desired. They have a lot of end user issues that warrant visits from a safe technician because of their use of the S&G 1004 lock, their steel cast mechanism cam, their welding on the mechanism, the reinforcement of the mechanism, and even how they did things like bolt their door panels on. Browning prosteels Chinese product is the epitome of why you don’t cut corners on designing safes and building them. Last year I was at Bass Pro shop and sportsman’s warehouse working on their browning prosteel prosteel product under warranty every few months. This is product that hadn’t even been sold yet. In most cases I was working on at least 2-3 safes at the same time while I was there. I made several house calls to customers under warranty as well this last year. If you are unhappy with that door storage fit, call liberty with the serial number after you register your warranty. They will take care of you. I’m not aware of any champion/superior product that’s built in the US around $1200, all their entry level and mid level product is built in Mexico and advertised as “made in North America”. See how that works? 😉 Why buy a safe? Keeping guns away from kids is a huge reason. Keeping guns out of the hands of criminals is another huge reason. Any time you slow someone down that comes in your house, you limit how much stuff they take from you. Layered security is important, so the thieves don’t feel comfortable spending a lot of time in your home. Safes, Alarms, cameras, properly trained animals, etc....... all limit how comfortable someone will feel committing a crime on/within your domicile. If they can’t come in and just grab a gun from your closet or under your bed, then the safe is doing a portion of it’s job. Thieves spend minutes in homes, some spend hours, and some spend days. I have seen it, and it makes you wonder sometimes what some homeowners are thinking with what safe they bought and how they layered security with their specific threat level potential. Safes are like insurance policies. With security in mind, you buy the level of safe warranted by the value you are locking up and the security features of your home. Hope this provides some insight and helps to answer some things.
i guess Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know a trick to log back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost the login password. I would appreciate any help you can offer me!
@Noah Kyle thanks so much for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will get back to you later with my results.
Exterior hinges do nothing to compromise security. The bolts will be locked in you could even remove the hinges once locked and the door will be secured by the bolts inside.
My liberty Centurion safe has been with me since 12/2004 when I moved in my new home and I love it. Don't have kids because I'm not into them but I still lock up my guns when I'm not home.
Most safes are sheet metal boxes with a bogus lock. Any Harbor Freight disc grinder can open it in five minutes. The last thing I would worry about would be separation of trim on the shelves.
Graffunder safes have hinges outside the door, and these are the top of the safe food chain. So your statement about outside door hinges is a cheaper feature is inaccurate. Hinges on the outside of the door allows the door to be opened more widely (180 degrees) than those with internal hinges. There is no down side to outside hinges, as safe doors should have some sort of bolt work (active or non-active) on the hinge side, preventing door removal if the hinges are cut off during an attack.
Out side hinges are not a weak point. Liberty's upper level safes called National safe are all outside hinges. All TL rated safes are outside hinges. Good safes have inside bolts
Not gonna lie I went with a budget Winchester TS26-45 from Tractor Supply and the leather trim around my shelving is actually adhered to the particle board great with no loose spots at all. I’m actually very impressed with how clean and well put together the safe is.
Tractor Supply has the Revere model which is the same safe and from my research is the cheapest of them. I bought one a couple of weeks ago, love it so far.
I got the 72 gunsafe model. Did you get the smaller one...i think its 30 gun safe? Its a bummer the outlet kit doesn't come with the safe for the light kit they include. Watch "Liberty Revere 72 Gun Safe @ Tractor Supply" on RU-vid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GQjen0_npjk.html
Nice vid. Thanks for the info. I wasn’t needing a safe when this video was made but I am definitely in the market now. Excellent info and I hope in the past couple years liberty has seen this video and made some improvements to the fit and finish process. Because I agree, just gluing a leather looking strip on particleboard edges is just a really cheap way to go.
I have a nice higher end model I purchased in the nineties. After liberty gave out the codes to the atf, I purchased another safe for my expensive firearms. My liberty safe has been demoted to an ammo and accessory storage.
I think most people overlook that the average burglary lasts less than 15 minutes. Most crooks aren't carrying around rotary tools and pry bars. Bolt down a decent safe with the opening edge against a wall to make it all but impossible for a pry bar to work and you will be fine.
Fire rated safes hold moisture in their dry wall. lts important to control the humidity and temp levels inside in the safe or rusting will be an issue. Especially when mounted in the basement.
Save your money and buy a better made safe Liberty is a very nice safe after you get up to 5/6000. I like the military 4 in . 1/4 steel but look at a fort knox for 4000. 11 ga body and 3/8 solid steel door and better paint and interior .
The placement of the hinge is irrelevant if the safe is built properly. There are $20000 safes. To have the hinges on the outside, it's just a cosmetic thing. As long as the bulk go in on the left and the right. The hinges are just there, so you can move the door
Good video but the complaints you listed are rather pointless. When buying an entry-level safe you are giving up a few things but having 1/64 or less of the partical board showing to me is reaching. As far as the long guns goes, if you didn't go to a store to verify and just purchase it without doing your do diligence is really on you. Since my long guns are standard size, I would jump on this model and just might do it. To me it's the best at that price point for an entry level safe/RSC. It's solid and well built
Enjoyable video! When I was looking for a safe, I ended up going with the Browning because it didn't have the QC issues you described. I would have preferred going with an American built safe but in the end I wanted the highest quality I could get for my money spent and I came into a great deal on the Browning.
Safes/good RSC, are the ultimate buy once cry once purchase, and the last place you want to cheap out. The AMSEC BFII series not expensive at all compared to other real safes, but will keep all but determined pros with tools and time out. AMSEC has more experience than any other, and what you tend to see in commercial grade applications. Don't waste your $ on anything else. They don't advertise as the other brands do as everyone who knows safes/RSCs, knows AMSEC.
I keep my range toys in a SnapSafe. I’m going to need more space so I am also looking for a similar size/price range as this one. I have the same BB gun, it’s a classic from 1911.
I’ve been looking at this model for a little bit now. Thanks for the information. Do you know what’s the difference is between the handle you have on this safe as opposed to the 3 spoke handle? They have it as an option on the Liberty website.
Most Liberty safes have a cutout for the Power Outlet accessory kit... but yeah, those work... get quality batteries and change them before they corrode!
I have to ask the long gun of your "friends" is it a 270 savage. I have a friend with one just like it. Just got a better look at it . It looks like a 22
Back when I used to do home invasions I would just call Liberty Safe and tell them I was Agent Ben Dover with the FBI and they'd just give me the combination. When I figured out I could just collect money from Liberty Safe by calling them and telling them I was soliciting donations for an anti-gun group I stopped doing home invasions. I even called from the same number. One of them got suspicious because Ben Dover showed up in his contacts and he recognized the name. I had to tell him I retired from the FBI and now work at disarming dangerous law abiding citizens. He made a nice donation to my Corvette fund.
Sadly, better grade safes simply require more money to get to the level of quality most of us want. Being in business today vs. 40 years ago is way more expensive and regulated which drives up the cost of manufacturing. Those interior features can be taken care of with some glue methods that would be equal to the quality level of the safe itself. 14 ga isn't the way to go if you are looking for high security however, in the lower price range thats about all any safe company is going to offer. Being a safe owner for a few decades now, it is recommended for first time buyers to wait until they have enough money saved up to buy a larger and higher grade model due to the long term ownership they will have. Cry once, buy once and get the better size and grade you really want because its likely going to be a long term ownership item that will be critical later in life to serve its best.
Why not just install the electrical outlet accessory? It has 3 plug receptacles, yes you have to drill a hole. While your doing that buy the light system liberty sells?
I have a Liberty Presidential. I became aware of the fact that the drywall and chipboard contain products that cause rust. They are not actually UL rated. They are listed and fall under the Residential Security Container classification. The large bolts/pins that secure the door, look incredible, but are hollow. Don't expect documents not to be burnt up in a fire! Don't expect to keep thief's from cutting through the side walls! They will likely keep young kids from getting them, end of story. I could have gotten a much cheaper, all metal cabinet, from my neighborhood welding shop.
I just made the mistake of purchasing one the day before yesterday, and I have had nothing but problems! This thing is garbage, and no advice or videos have been helpful so far!
I have one, and it does the job. It keeps kids out, and is too heavy for a burglar to move and too time consuming for them to break into. What else is there really?
@@Lifechanging99999 I live in LA so I’m speaking from experience from seeing burglaries, no burglar going to take the time to lift and move a safe . They already trying to get out and leave as quick as possible they might hit the lock but that’s about it
Are the locking bars located on both sides of the door? or is there any locking mechanism what so ever on the right side, up and down for instance? with the hinges been exposed like that it seems pretty easy to me to get to the guns with the use of a cordless grinder and a cutting disc.
There should be 3 welded stationary locking bars on the hinge side of the door, I have the Centurion 12 and it has 3 of them the same style as the other locking plates.
I've had a Liberty for over 20 years and it does it's job. Sad fact, with a 4.5" angle grinder, you can get into it in under 5 min. I'm totally with you on that door panel. Seems odd how they did it. Even with heavy 3m adhesive, that fabric wouldn't stay attached to the backer board for long. Meh, it's a marketing gimmick. Good on paper, reality is diff. Maybe those boys over in Utah will watch your video review.
A safe is only as good as how you chose to place it. If you place it like that it’s is a waste of money cause can cut threw too or sides with a grinder rather quickly empty contents and be gone. Need to encapsulate them lighter way set in closet frame in with 2x4s and spray foam every inch of build. Heaviest which requires bracing floor set and encapsulate with cement.
I know this is two years old but the Centurion is listed at $1200 And it is listed as the lowest fire rating that liberty offers. If anyone can you show me a liberty under 500 I’d be all about it
Just Seen this safe in person at rc Willy and I could literally see sheet metal on the door move in and out by applying a bit of pressure just with one arm. Is that the norm with safes in this price range ? That was a deal breaker for me. Tried the same with the USA series safe next to it and nothing. No give
I thought this was gonna be a helpful Video in regards to troubleshooting my issues. I bought a 18 gun centurion model The day before yesterday, and I’ve had nothing but problems! No advice or videos have Helped with the issue so far. If you were discouraged by The lack of quality you just elaborated on, then congratulations on avoiding this garbage!
Don't get any weird ideas................that was funny....you should have gotten a big earth magnet after the boating accident and gotten them back if the water wasn't too deep.
Thanks for the review. I just to the same model in black. Question - what happens if an intruder hits the control pad with a sledge hammer and breaks it. Is there a way to eventually get the safe open? Or it's battery runs out? Hopefully the contents are not locked in there forever.
If the lock is severely damaged, a locksmith drills the safe, opens the safe, installs a new lock, and seals it. Drilling a RSC (which is what most gun safes are) is a pretty fast process as RSCs don't have much armor. The battery changes on electronic locks do not necessitate this.
Breaking the keypad will do absolutely nothing to help you gain entry. There is no element of the actual locking mechanism on the outside, simply a ribbon cable that feeds the code to the lock inside the door. You cannot cross wires or anything of the sort to gain entry. The battery is located in the keypad on the outside of the safe. On these particular securam locks the battery will last for years of daily use. I've used mine daily for 2 1/2 years and it's still going strong. The battery change is easy and takes less than 30 seconds. The actual lock inside of the door is protected by a hard plate to stop drilling. It's not a very good hard plate on the centurion but at least it exists. However the number of people who know how to even locate let alone drill a safe lock are extremely few, if you have to protect against that sort of attack you need a real safe and that's going to cost money money. Nothing under several thousand dollars is protecting against professional attack in any meaningful sense. As far as locating and knocking the lock off; these safes are equipped with a relocking device. If the lock case is knocked in the relocker will fire, affixing all bolts. At that point they're screwed and you either need a safe tech to get in or you have to zip the top off. All in all this is as good as it gets for an entry level "safe." Just understand the word safe is a misnomer in this world. These aren't safes, they are residential security containers. They are thin sheet metal boxes lined with drywall. The better ones have very good secure doors but are still just doors on a sheet metal box lined with drywall. If you want an actual safe, something made of plate steel filled with actual fireproofing which is either ceramic wool or concrete composite, you're talking 6k minimum for a small safe, serious professional moving costs, and you are very limited as to where it can be installed as it weighs at least 1,000 pounds on the low end. Even then unless you're paying even more than these prices you're getting minutes of protection from a professional thief and maybe an hour of actual fire protection. Which is much, much better than the seconds of burglary protection and absolutely no fire protection these pretend consumer gun safes offer. Hope that is helpful to you.
I think I'm getting one. I really need a fat boy, but there's just no way I'm getting one home, much less into the house. Even just the 30 weighs like 520 lbs!
Could definitely do without the cringe decal but other than that they really are the best entry level gun cabinets out there. They won't stop anyone other than children and the clueless but that's true of all gun "safes" under about 5k. Also the fire rating is totally bogus, a single layer of 1/2" drywall just set in there, not even seemed together isn't protecting a damn thing from fire and that's why they aren't actually tested. They just pay a company to put it in an oven to set to their parameters that have no basis whatsoever in reality to give it a rigged rating. However that really doesn't matter, insurance is cheap.
@@j.p.4541 good deal! I will look into it Along with some others.👍 I bought a 18 gun centurion the day before yesterday, and I’ve had nothing but issues so far. No advice, support, or RU-vid video has helped, so I got rid of it today! Will look into a steel water tomorrow and thanks for the advice!☺️
WTF dude? Thumbs down because you keep calling the other safe a "Snap On" safe. It's not a Snap On safe... it even says so RIGHT ON THE DOOR. It's a Stack On safe.
Your liberty safe is not american made it is assembled in usa with global(chinese) parts. Says so on the website. I mean if China can make a $15000 apple imac which Is way more complicated then a steel safe I'm sure they can make a safe .
Didn't Liberty tried to prove that there safes we're top notch so they hired two of their priors and successfully open other safes but the issue is that they almost opened their own safe while trying to prove that their safes lasted 5 minutes longer LOL
Man, you don't buy a safe and tell the whole internet about it. Not to mention disclosing the exact model, its contents and stuff in front of everyone. Why not give us your code? The general idea behind a safe is keeping things private and out of reach for burglars. The more information they have, the more they are able to prepare. This is really stupid.
I definitely thought about that, although honestly I've reviewed things much more valuable and easier to steal throughout the whole history of this channel. Obviously I fortified my home and made other preparations if a bad actor came my way. There are a lot of new gun owners and I think it's important that they inform themselves about how to best take care of their new tools, if, in effect, this means a slight risk for me but educates on safety and increased responsibility, then I am OK with that. Cheers, Andrew
