as someone who grew up in mora and have been were they make the knifes i can say that they do make a knife they leave razor sharp, but they are made with the intention that it will be a working knife that will take "abuse" and for the owner to sharpen them as they use them and its very rarly you see them make a "showcase knife". they have models that have that mirror shine aswell, it kinda depends on what steel they are using and what they are intended for and and their idea of how it should look. but its still a knife that is made to use and sharpen when needed, and most who use them (workers and outdoorsmen etc) rarly needs that razorsharp edge
That's right. MORA knives are made for bushcraft and camping. They are used for wood and meat. While cutting paper like a razor blade can be an indicator of the sharpness of the edge, it is not the primary purpose. Snap-off utility knives and scissors are available for cutting paper cleanly.
Yes, most Mora knives ship with a micro bevel from the factory. The company knows that a pure scandi edge is too fragile for most people who don’t carry diamond sharpening stones.
Two of the three moras i own didn’t. They where sharp, but not razor-sharp. But the fact that those two have a pretty rough finish (really corse base grind and from there directly to polishing) is kinda annoying.
No they dont. I have tested the edges on these since preteens whenever I visited hardware stores. Multiple different models over period of multiple years. They pop hair if you press the blade and kind of take hair of but shaving sharp is exaggeration imho. Good knives tho if you don't mind plastic.
There’s no logic for some of us knife people. It cuts fine but let’s make it even more beautiful. Kyle has some skill. I’m sure I’d screw it up and it would end up being worse.
I have done this treatment to like 10 or so Moras. Some I have converted to a convex Scandi. I just love how that perfect mirror polished scandi grind looks and feels.
Kyle’s attention to detail is without compare. I had him make me a sheath for a custom knife and the results were amazing and the price was significantly less than I was expecting. He truly is a master of his craft and I wish him well in the future
I learned the most about freehand sharpening when I did this exact process on my Mora. The bevel was already set so all I had to concentrate on was removing the scratch marks. I finally could feel what pressure (or lack thereof) effect my result. Additional I could finally feel what each stone grit did. ** as an explanation why feel was so important I am a high level quadriplegic (c5-c6) limited motor senses and NO tactile senses . I rely on my ears, eyes ie. immediate scratch pattern and the line left on the stones. So yes, this is where "feel" was 1st evident. I try to watch most if not all of your videos. You give excellent instruction and are calming to listen to. Thank you
Thanks for the tutorial and commentary, Kyle. I always learn something from your sharpening videos. Because of your inspiration, I have increasing confidence in my freehand sharpening with Scandi grind knives (slowly getting better and more consistent!). Looking forward you learning more in your future videos!
Just gonna tell you here, but I received a brand new garberg (don't, the kansbol is better) with a huge secondary bevel, tons of steel ground out to make the edge, so a very obvious, ugly ricasso, and sharp metal edges inside of the lanyard hole. I had to use a needle file to make the hole suitable for actually putting a lanyard through. Really depressing quality for their "strongest" knife. It's also much too slippery and dangerous, a companion has a much more ergonomic handle
I have my two moras that I take deer hunting, the carbon for fine detail and my stainless for more brute work. Great job Kyle, haven’t seen the kansbol since it was released, beautiful edge.
It's so nice of you to do that splendid polishing and sharpening work for Santa so he has plenty of time to deliver those lovely knives to a couple of good little boys or girls for Christmas. You'll find something special in your stocking. 🎅
Hi Kyle, thanks for another great video. I just purchased a carbon Garberg. Would you suggest polishing off the machine striations on the bevel? I was a bit concerned that the tiny grooves would affect slicing motions, but the factory edge performed well. My thinking is that those tiny grooves would prevent me from getting a hair-shaving edge. Is it worth it to put in the time or do you recommend just letting the edge get polished through normal use and sharpening?
Love Mora knives I probably have a dozen of them from carving ones (sloyd and hook knives) to basic and companion versions. Great bushcraft knives that take a great edge and I agree that they come with a serviceable edge, but I usually sharpen then up right away to get rid of the micro bevel. For the price they are an amazing buy. Great to see your approach with sharpening them from brand new. Thanks for the great vid and keep making sharp things fun and enjoyable.
I just received my first Mora (Kansbol) and was expecting the edge to be a bit better/sharper than it was based upon how everyone raves about them. It's certainly not bad, but kind of average I guess. The blade itself also came a bit dirty as well - was able to mostly clean it up. But for $36, I don't really care too much.
I don't really care if it comes dull. All I care about is the steel, the evenness of the grind, and if it has a good heat treatment or not. Anyone in to knives should be able to sharpen them. Just my two cents.
Morakniv Stainless steel does NOT take the same edge as their Carbon blades. And their full Carbon blades do not seem to hold the edge their Laminated blades do. Compare them all
The way they leave the factory with those grind lines is optimal. Leaves you with a nice micro serration edge that cuts better than a mirror finish. Just my opinion.
The KANSBOL looks like a MORA 2000 without the polish. All the MORA`s I have owned (maybe two dozen) have had an ok edge from the factory. Maybe not great for meat work, but great for whitteling and stuff that most people buy them for. A great knife for all kinds of work. Ilove the fact that they are so easy to clean and hygienic. The first step of dressing deer or any other animal in the field is great, and then I sharpen them up again and they are just as good or better than the hunting knives of anyone I personally know.. People tend to stick with brands that they have seen in commercials in magazines or on flashy ads, I dont get that. The steel of the knife is what is important, and a knife that is an inch thick, tend to be more of a prybar and not a tool for comfortable work. Great video!
i should send you my kansbol for sharpening. ive beaten the shit out of it for two years now and i would love to see you fix it. chips and all lol it defiantly need an edge adjustment
I sort of messed up my stainless 2000 as i kept putting a bigger and bigger (not so) micro bevel on it to keep it razor sharp, took some work to get it back, but thanks to your videos, its pretty much back in shape now
Beautiful job Kyle. These Moras definitely take a bit of patience. I have finally become more successful at putting a nice edge on mine. They are definitely work horses though aren't they ? Mine has come in very handy over the years. Beautiful results Kyle !!
Thanks Chris! Scandi grinds can take some work to get just right, that's for sure! They are great little work horses though, and for the price you don't mind thrashing on them a bit.
Very nice... just something satisfying about seeing proper knife sharpening. Have you considered becoming a member of the Knife makers guild ? You build some beautiful knives. Just curious.
Nice work Kyle! I believe I have seen the Mora sharpening process in a video somewhere. The process of creating these knives are very streamlined so they create huge volumes which in addition to using materials found nearby is what's keeping the prices down. The sharpening is done with a robot and a belt grinder. Not sure uf its the same with all models. On a side note, when I have done sharpening for other people I tend to tape up the parts of the handle that might get in contact with the belt/stone to get a little bit of extra protection against scratches because the metal dust has a tendency to bury in the handle material. When using diamond stones I tape the side of the blade aswell because the dust can be pretty agressive especially on course stones that arent quite broken in yet. It's been great following your progress on youtube and you are no doubt a better sharpener than I ever was. Keep it up!
Absolutely! You might have noticed that although my title was mildly critical or controversial, my opinion of Mora knives is very positive. Nothing bad to say, especially considering the price point!
Mora is a small town in Sweden, kniv is Swedish for knife! I probably had like 100 or more Mora knifes in my life, earlier the grip was wood painted red, i am restoring some old Mora knifes with wood grip. My favorit Mora is a plumber model with built-in file!
I'm still waiting for the special edition bushcraft with a red wooden handle instead of rubber. They haven't announced any such plans yet, sadly, but it's such a low hanging fruit, eventually they should make it.
Hi , the same Blade like the Old model 2000...but New handle grips, all the best for you , and much friendly Greetings from Germany... habe Fun Klaus from KL
great explanation, would you mind writing down the wetstones you used, especially the last 3 you used for the fine and poishing work, I did not quite understand their name ... thanks, cheers from Germany
Terrible? Hell no, they are usually very good, but have machine lines on them like most cheap production knives. They can obviously be made better, but never had one from the factory with a bad grind.
No, they are good… I touched up the edge of a brand new morakniv (from sharp to sharper than anything else I’ve touched) and cut my hand while out camping. I had to go to the hospital. The blade was so sharp it felt like I got touched by a feather. It was a deep cut down into the muscle at the base of my thumb. It didn’t really bleed either because there wasn’t any ripping or tearing. Just like everything else; even when you are practicing safety you can make errors, be careful.
Mora is probably better than many "high end" expensive knives I own straight out the box, and are what most people consider "very sharp", but learn to sharpen well people... most knives you buy will need at the very least a good honing... if you know you know... for a "budget knife" you will never go wrong with a Mora that fits your need... I am so happy with all my scandi ground knives, expensive and otherwise and will bring any scandi into true scandi form once in my hand... easy, practical, strong and sharp... never seen this Mora, looks pretty cool!!
Great looking edge and sharp to boot but I'm not the biggest fan of the rocking whole sharpening. It gives it a bit of a convex edge which can be a pain for someone who doesn't know it's there or people who aren't good sharpeners. A slight convex on a knife like that may actually be beneficial but I'm curious if you do that on folders as well?
lol you are like the bob ross of sharpening knives. "we'll blend the happy little 2000 and 6000 scratches together with our genuine leather strop, oh that's real nice isn't it folks?" love the vids man :)
Your videos are great but. I have two Moras. The factory edge is more than anyone will ever need. It will dress and process 5 whitetails before needing sharpened. Anyone not happy with it probably doesn't really use their knives.
Hey Kyle , I’m getting into Timberframe style furniture,benches, etc…. What is your favorite couple of hand planes to get rough boards down to manageable wood ?
Great tutorial, learnt a lot and you sure have some amazing skills. Could you do a video on sharpening a Falkniven F1. Convex grind and special steel. I have one but afraid to give it a go. Cheers from Ireland.
Have you ever considered getting the Edge-On-Up Industrial Edge Tester? If you've never heard of it, it's basically a scale measured in grams, that can test consistently and accurately how sharp an edge is. I'd love to see you try one, I'm currently saving up to get myself one. I think it will really help me become a better sharpener as I would be able to put a real number to how sharp an edge is on any knife. As always, Kyle, great video; very informative.
I clicked because I bought that same blade (just the blade) at a hardware store in Iceland while on vacation just because it was a Mora that I hadn't seen before and I thought it would be fun to make my own handle for it and I wanted to see what someone else's take on it was.
I like Mora’s the skandi grind is super easy to hone on a stone (Arkansas for me) as the angle is well defined and easy to hold true as you stone it. Strop after and voila shaving sharp.
Those edges went from needing a plaster and a beer to needing a doctor with needle and thread. That is a joke of course (hope the receipients are familiar with sharp knives because they are sharrrp), what a great christmas present as they are one of the best utility knives you could ever wish to come upon regardless of budget. I do love mine. Nice video Kyle.
A mora is one of those cheap beaters I have yet to pick up, for no other reason than I just haven't yet. I've handled and used one or two a little, and as cheap as they are and what you get for the money, I feel like everyone should have at least one.
What I've heard is that Mora finishes with a light buffing wheel pass to polish the very edge, which tends to create a little microbevel. Once in a while they burn the edge a little with the buffing wheel, leaving it a little soft. In those cases, you may be able to see the burn, but you'll definitely tend to get some edge rolls. After a sharpening or two, the burnt bit is gone and the edge stops rolling.
Hey Kyle, great job! If you use leather to finish the sharpening, what side of the leather do you use? The smooth side or the rough side? I recently became the proud owner of a morakniv garberg carbon
Nice!! I use both, depending on the use! If I could only have one, I would choose the smooth side, which is how I build my strops on my webstore. For some rough tools, axes, or quick and dirty work, I might use a rough side because it allows me to load more compound into the leather!
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