Kyle, if I didn't know better (and not sure that I do :-)), I'd swear you made a deal with the devil to sharpen as well as you do. Truly amazing! I really enjoy your channel and continue to learn quite a bit!
Beautiful edge you put on that mora. You are an artist indeed. That's for showing us the correct steps. You make it look so easy but I know that comes with hours spent in the shop.
I have a bit of experience at this stuff 😅 but your videos are great refreshers . I think it can be easy to become un teachable as time passes I don't want to get to that place. Your Chanel is becoming my go to for a refresher. Your tone and the manner of explaining this stuff is very approachable and relaxing I'll be sure to hit the like button from know on
Every once in a while I’ll bring my moras into my shop and give em this treatment on the shapton glass stones. They usually get their touch ups from the old pocket Arkansas and I usually reserve my glass stones for work-related sharpening...but a full scandi grind polished to .44 microns is a thing of beauty...especially the wood handled, classic models 🤤
Awesome! I had my time collection and restoring axes. I have since sold some. I'll still keep an eye out for real special ones, but that's about all :-D
Thank you for sharing your expertise. I just ordered the Morakniv Kansbol. It's almost exactly the same but comes with the 90° spine & different handle. My Companion is a beast for certain aspects of carving my walking staffs & fatwood Ferro rod handles from the knuckles of deadfallen pine. I'm needed a beefier knife and a smaller precision carving knife. Both of which Morakniv makes. I'm getting their small carving axe, too.
Great videos. I have struggled many many years with my sharpening never getting the edge I wanted. Your videos have taught me what it takes with the right stone and technique needed. Keep up the great videos. Thanks
I find a 0 degree scandi edge can be a bit fragile, so I always put a little bit of a convex on my knives when I strop them. The amount of convex isn't enough to interfere with sharpening, or even see with the naked eye, but I think it increases the strength of the edge greatly. For a strop I use old denim tacked to a flat board, with and without compound.
Firstly, awesome video 🙂 secondly, I personally love Morakniv, I have the Garberg stainless and carbon also just got the Eldris, coming soon I believe I am going to swing for the cork knife with the Scandinavian grind. I prefer a true scandi grind for a bushcraft/survival knife and this is why. I grew up learning "bushcraft" skills years before I ever heard it called that, for us it was just living off the land but the (go to knife) back then, was mostly a pocket knife. My granddad in fact only ever used a pocket knife and it did everything he wanted it to do, but I found the secondary bevel or micro bevel, was always in need for a sharpening. It was a common thing to watch him take out pocket knife followed by pocket stone and sharpen it up real quick before continuing on with whatever he was going to do. Also, the secondary bevel over a span of time forced you to change the angle of the bevel as the edge receded closer to the spine from sharpening it, to the point that it basically became a scandi grind. So with the experience that I had with the pocket knives as a kid and young adult with a secondary bevel compared to my experience with my Garberg and scandi grinds prior to the introduction of that specific knife, and how much I could do before it's in need of touching up, also with the fact that more times than not with a scandi it's just stropping it on a piece of leather (no compound) rather than actually removing metal to get it back to razor sharp, I choose a true scandi grind over any other type when it comes to quote unquote bushcraft knives. Again, awesome video, I have been subscribed, just now seeing this video lol, I love your channel 🙂 take care and stay awesome!!! 🙂
Sand paper and files I use. Thanks for the sharpening videos my friend. Still a "beginner" per say, but with practice and ruined knives, getting better.
I was going thru your videos and couldn't pass this one up. I have a few Mora's that I keep in my toolbox, center console. etc. They are great knives for the price and in my opinion, great to learn how to sharpen the blade. The 1000 grit stone is perfect for the polished finish to match the stainless finish and as you have demonstrated, makes her look new again. Hopefully Larry won't give up and continue to try to sharpen his blades. I still consider myself to be a novice at sharpening, but just take my time and watch the angle. On a side note, I look forward to getting my hands on the Bake Apple blade from you. It should arrive soon. Great information, thank you for sharing with us less experienced blade enthusiasts.
Everyone puts a full length ferro grind on thier knife i do mine only on the outer half then i have both safety and ferro edges. Great for my young grandkids who i am teaching but also good for me. Great video though, i will practice your method.
I really like that micro amount of convexing on my Scandinavian grinds . I strongly prefer a scandi or a convex and that's the grinds I use on 75% of the knives I make . I do however for some reason always put in a flat or Saber on my full tang knives. I'm still on the fence about micro bevels . A full 0° scandi is great until you get to carving on very hard seasoned woods so the micro bevel has a important place imo
Nice ,,, the Mora mirror finish . Pass on the microbevel for me, I like the full and scandy straight to the edge, great video bro loving that glass finish
Interesting guide to sharpening. My own Mora had seen some abuse as a fishing knife and the blade edge is fairly notched. I like your guide but don't want to spend a fortune on stones at the moment. Maybe I can look at this again in the future. Thanks
I love a crowned spine, it's so much more enjoyable for whittling,, if you need to strike a ferro rod,, use a dedicated striker,, it's no biggy ,,,, I have the Mora 2000 which has the same blade as this one,, and I think it's the best Mora ever,, I've no inclination to buy another, as it's sheer perfection, imho,,
Thanks, I'm learning slowly, really enjoy your videos. All I need to do now is buy a bigger range of stones and 2 strops.. But I will watch more of your videos 1st!
Have fun learning, Carl! Good luck with it, and be patient! When the time comes to buy a strop, email me! I can make you a two-sided paddle strop, the perfect combo!
You do nice work Kyle. I've just bought a new Mora companion. It's quite dull. Any tips on how to get it sharp? I've never sharpened a knife in my life! From Australia.
Kyle, ive been watching your videos for awhile and i have to ask... what inspired you to start making knives in the beginning? And what would you say is something that continues to inspire you today?
Beautiful job! Your videos are simple & easy to follow; however, you jump from sandpaper to stones or belt sanders. Which do you prefer and whech method is the easiest to obtain the type of edges you get? Also, when using stones, which stones do you prefer, oil or whet? Please continue producing these videos. Great Stuff!
The sharpened spine idea probably most commonly comes from Mors Kochanski, and I think he liked it originally for the ability to scrape wood. Fire steel was just another benefit. It definitely skins bark cleanly, as if it were invented specifically for that purpose. In combo with the aggressive cut of the blade, I think what's shown here is benchmark.
The sharpened spine idea probably most commonly comes from Mors Kochanski, and I think he liked it originally for the ability to scrape wood. Fire steel was just another benefit. It definitely skins bark cleanly, as if it were invented specifically for that purpose. In combo with the aggressive cut of the blade, I think what's shown here is benchmark.
Hey "cousin", really enjoy the learning value of your segments! I have a brand new Mora, that I just finished the spine on so that it works well with my ferro rod, plus a little fine tuning on the factory edge. Passes the shave & paper test some nice. Really appreciate the time and effort you put in to your channel, I always learn a bit more by watching, every time.
Hi bud love this channel !I'm totally new to sharpening ,I'm going to purchase some wet stones from Amazon I'm looking at a 1000 and a 4000 to start out with I also want to buy a leather strap my question to you is do leather straps come in different grits or a strap a strap?
I don't mind the way spyderco used to do there Scandi grinds, not a micro bevel but a decent one. Seems to cut well, might be a little more work as you maintain the 2 angles but I like it. I also like your technique and have 2 moras coming so I plan on trying both and seeing what works best for me in practice. Thanks again, I like to start commenting as the video starts so sometimes I post earlier by accident sometimes I just think I'm done, just incase u notice my other comment. I'm not just lea ING multiple comments to give you more reading to do. Not that you, well who knows.
Hi Kyle, Thank you for sharing your knowledge, much appreciated. I just ordered the Spyderco tri-angle sharpmaker. I don't have much experience in sharpening knives; do you think the Spyreco would be a good choice, or should I just go for classic wet stones? Thanks a lot!
Interesting to learn about the micro bevels. I have a Mora bushcraft and I must say it didn't come from factory as sharp as Larry's knife is now. Beautiful job as always Kyle!
Ye mine definitley had trouble getting clean cuts in aswell and took effort to do some cutting tasks, also did you use yours on a ferrocoium rod, if so how'd it go
Hey Kyle Chris from Barrie here love your channel! just started watching! I am Military and am getting a Mora! - I want to get 2 Japanese whetstones for basic sharpening, have been looking at Pauls Finest and figure a 1000 grit and maybe a 3000 (just Naniwa Traditional) anything else you think I would need to get started? Strop? Compound if so any recommended types?? .....would these grits be decent for general Maint on Moras?....would appreciate your input thanks and love the Vids from a fellow Canuck!
when you spend so much time sharpening that edge to perfection, then you don't really want to chop a stick with that blade anymore :) just to keep it sparking shine
Where did you see that Naniwa Chosera use SiC for the abrasive? I was pretty sure it AlOx like most water stones. Part of the reason is Suehiro has a G8 8,000 grit stone and its SiC and its considered the finest SiC stone. If Chosera are SiC than their 10k would be the finest but every site I've seen has them listed as AlOx.
I have been super impressed by Mora's scandi grind. It really seems tragic to put a micro-bevel over it. If you enjoy maintaining an edge, that scandi is sharper than a razor!
Yea, they obviously do it to compensate for the soft steel, and the hard use they often face. However, if you know you're going to be treating your knife well, I see no issue with removing it!
Hey Kyle, I'm a relatively new subscriber from Ontario. As much as I would love to purchase a custom knife from you, it's just not feasible right now. With that being said, what would you recommend for a tough bushcraft knife that would be in the neighborhood of $150 Cdn? Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
I would look to the kershaws for value. I have had many Kershaw knives less than $50, that are fantastic knives. And not just "fantastic for $50". Fantastic for any price.
Here's the order I used in the video: 240 grit Sigma Select II 320 grit Shapton Kuromaku blue/black 400 grit Naniwa Superstone 1000 grit shapton glass 4000 grit shapton glass 6000 grit Woodstock steelex
