Thank you so much. I was just going nuts trying to figure out how to get that bloody cleaning rod out on an older model Arisaka. I feel so sheepish now....
All the action screws in mine are heavily staked in place so I had to clean/oil mine best I could without taking it out of the stock. That worried me a bit since I always take my milsurps all the way down to inspect and oil them, but I didn't want to mess the screw heads up. Luckily mine is in amazing shape so I am sure it's fine for now. This is an old vid, hopefully you have some proper hollow ground screwdrivers by now!
I agree, don't take the screws out if they are staked unless you have to. Yeah this was my first instructional video just getting my feet wet. I've learned a lot since then and this will be the first video that I "redo" hopefully sooner rather than later. Thanks!
I appreciate the section of the AA sight. I have an early war Arisaka and the sights are gummy and a pair to use cause of it. Now that I know 100 pieces won't fly out into an alternate universe I'm going to clean them. Thank you!
Thanx for the up close showing the removal of the anti-aircraft sight. At some point I have to add an anti-aircraft sight to my son's Type 99. I am looking for any information I can before doing this.
Thanks for this video, I was just given a bet bring back but sporterized late war arisaka and I’m going to do what I can to restore it to what it once was
@@HistoryinFirearms thank you, I’m stuck on one part though and I was wondering if you had any ideas. The front nose cap is not supposed to go past the front sight correct? The previous owner must have cut it off while sporterizing it, is is possible to fit a new one over the front sight or am I kinda boned?
@@90sHighSpeed Unfortunately it is not possible to fit a new one over the front sight. The front sight would have to be removed. It is a separate piece but removal is beyond my know how unfortunately. 😕
@@HistoryinFirearms so I did even more research, apparently you can just rotate the band upside down and it should be a tight fit but will be able to slide over the front sight. I have a late war model so the front sight doesn’t have the protective “ears” and the sides were ground down by the previous owner so it looks more like a 1903 Springfields front sight. I bought a new follower spring and tray so that’ll be an easy installation (thanks to this video), I’m just waiting to talk myself into dropping $300 on a new stock and bands
@@90sHighSpeed Oh good to know! Not having the protective ears should definitely help. The follower should be no big deal. Unfortunately restoring these old rifles is not cheap for sure.
I'm looking forward to the remake with better lighting, but am also curious about how to remove the barrel. Do any of your videos show how to remove the barrel? My grandfather brought a 99 back from Japan after the war, but it was in my gun safe when my house burned down and I'd like to fully disassemble it to get the smaller pieces in the parts cleaner. Thanks
I'm hoping to be able to get to the remake in the next few months. Unfortunately, taking barrels off is a bit more than I'm comfortable with, so I don't have anything covering that.
I appreciate the video. Unfortunately with my rifle, one of the action screws in the triggerguard is staked in place to the point where I would need to damage the screw in order to remove it. Too bad, I was looking forward to conservation of all the metal components.
@@HistoryinFirearms Have you ever disassembled last ditch rifles? It appears that the front band/bayonet lug is secured using a wood wedge and wood pin driven into the end of the stock itself. The screws are all staked. Especially the rear barrel band screw. The rifle is in really nice shape with intact bluing and mum, but I can see some surface rust on the action under the stock. I would love to take care of it but the front barrel band scares me because it was attached with woodworking techniques, and it’s really secure/solid. I have no idea how to address it unless I drop some oil down there. Which isn’t ideal either.
@@hansgruber9685 They definitely did some out of the norm stuff on the last ditch rifles. I have not had a chance to look at these much though. I understand the concern of the rust but would be very hesitant to disassemble that rifle. You will lose some historical value and I would think it would be very hard to get that wooden pin out/in with out noticeable damage. If the rifle looks in good shape, I would think the rust wouldn't be super bad. As you mentioned, oil may not be ideal but may be a better option than taking it a part. If you could find a gunsmith that deals with historic firearms they may have some other options but those are my thoughts. Thanks for asking!
It looks like you would have to remove the front sight post to remove the forward barrel band/bayonet lug. Is my assumption correct? Was looking at a last ditch 99 and noticed the bayonet lug was cracked, wondering how much of a job it would be to replace....
I appreciate the honest review! With this being the first video I posted it's definitely rough around the edges. I think the quality has improved in the more recent videos and will continue to improve. 👍
I’m trying to restore the 99 my father brought back from WWII I sporterized it in my younger days and I’ve been trying to get a stock and hand guard I’ve found a stock but the hand guard is proven to be elusive I’d love to pass this on to my grandson in original condition
@@HistoryinFirearms Thanks for the encouragement I’ve got to be diligent and patient I’ve got some of the parts that I took off but it was over 40 years ago and I’m not sure where they are 🥵
If you have a drill press, look up vids on how to remove gun screws with one. You can put your screwdriver bit in the drill press and press down with the drill press handle while turning the chuck with something to give you leverage. Works like a charm and being able to push down hard like that keeps you from marring up the screw and maybe the gun.
I appreciate the video but it was hard to watch your using a regular screwdriver on those screws. Get yourself a set of gunsmithing screw drivers before you tear up those screw heads.
Thanks for the input and I agree! This being one of the first videos, hopefully you will find the more recent videos a bit better. I will eventually refilm this as a Training Film and the content and production will be improved. Thanks again.
For anyone thinking of sporting up an original arisaka. The Japanese used eucalyptus stain. When sanding off the original varnish it becomes toxic to breath and can easily kill a man. Be careful men.
@@HistoryinFirearms little thing i learned after purchasing an already sporterized arisaka, i wanted to turn the camo paint back into stained wood grain and in researching i learned that dirty little secret.
Thanks for the input! This video will be redone this year, as it's not representative of the current content. It was the first video I did. The lights are on in the Type 99 Training Films on the channel. 🙂👍
4:08 if that lil tang plate wont come up tap it slightly forward with a brass punch and hammer. if the magwell and trigger guard get stuck tap it down with a brass punch. Dont overtighten the front barrel band screws or the button that releases the cleaning rod wont work right. If you dont screw them in enough the monopod wont snap in the closed position
Thanks for the tips! This being one of my first videos and having improved content quality since then, I intend on remaking this video and maybe I can work this in.
@@HistoryinFirearms thanks. Im new to type 99s. Just took apart mine and oiled it gor the first time. It looked really dry. It was tight. Just a lip rust under the rear barrel band. That might be common. Its a 1941-42 series 20. Kokura. Complete and all original. Some guy on gunboards sold it to me. Thats a great site
