Arrow - Pitch 2

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There are only two climbs that I can think of in the Gunks that have bolts, Sente in the beginning and Arrow at the very end. Arrow is part of the the string of top star moderates that make up the Arrow wall (Annie-Oh, Limelight, Arrow, Easy-V and Nurse's Aid). With the Exception of Easy-V, all of these climbs end with a second pitch of great exposed climbing on pristine white rock. So worth getting on.
I'm somewhat alone in this opinion but if you do this climb, PLEASE make the 2 move scramble to the top and traverse a dozen yards or so to the right to the rap station at the top of Easy-V. If thats to sketchy, consider the rap at the top of Annie-OH, or the station at the top of No Glow further right. All I ask is avoiding rapping back off Arrow. The climb gets a significant amount of traffic. Unfortunately, the experience on Arrow can be tainted by traffic jams and ropes falling on your head.

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5 сен 2017

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Комментарии : 36

@andreashedin586 7 лет назад

Appreciate you leaving the anchoring bit in the video. Good stuff!

@ethanguy82 4 года назад

You should learn the 1 handed clove ;-) Thanks for the video and for getting tons of flack for not clipping in as you lead out at the belay! The Gunks are so great and it’s awesome to watch people climb classics from my desk at work!

@ananda_miaoyin 2 года назад

Trad route with bolted belays. What a luxury! Nice climbing!

@badnews9312 6 лет назад

What an awesome climb - you have great exposure down there at the Gunks - It is very similar to Southern Ontario Limestone routes that run along the length of the Bruce Trail escarpment. However, the longest routes are really only two full pitches in height. It looks like the Gunks are much higher in sections...

@toddkreider6759 5 лет назад

Excellent lead

@jarrodheffernan7736 4 года назад

Genuinely curious, for belaying someone up at second pitch or a hanging belay wouldn’t it be better to belay from the shelf of an anchor rather than directly from your belay loop? That way if you had fallen before your first protection the belayer wouldn’t be ripped against the anchor? I’m trying to learn all of this stuff and wasn’t sure if belaying from the shelf of an anchor is only for belaying up a second on a pitch.

@liama23 4 года назад

Yep thats right.

@yanaccs5488 5 лет назад

Nice man....

@johnnykachur6750 3 года назад

Why are you extending QuickDraws? New to climbing would like to know!

@sloperusa 3 года назад

Roofs

@David_Riviera 7 лет назад

Fall factor 2 if you fall before 2,33 min. It is easy to avoid if clip in the anchor before continuing to climb. What do you thing?

@FirstPersonBeta 7 лет назад

I think any fall before 2:33 would just result in decking on the GT ledge (ledge where I start). While a fall would be bad, I'm only 15 ft or so off the ledge at that point and the climbing is pretty easy and mellow. If one is feeling uncomfortable, I'm pretty sure you could plug a smaller piece to the right of my hand at 1:16. But you're absolutely right that it's never a bad idea to have something in the anchor. I'm usually pretty staunch on that when starting up more difficult climbs or smaller ledges and hanging belays.

@leoingson 7 лет назад

Dude, belayer gets the whole load on body! Can never hold you with a tube (one bend less) that direction, anyways. You soloed there w 2 potential deads (if you don't deck),, easy grade or not.

@daveus111 6 лет назад

True that!

@andrewhess155 6 лет назад

"Never a bad idea"? "staunch when I'm starting up more difficult climbs"? I really don't think you appreciate how dangerous that is. And you're that confident that you would just land on the GT ledge from 15 feet up? I'd encourage you to put in the notes to the video that this is a bad move. Own it and let others learn that this is a significant danger.

@starkraft2506 6 лет назад

Actually clipping the anchor can often be super dangerous too, and will not reduce the fall factor to any significant degree with this anchor setup. An earlier piece behind the flake at the end of the traverse MAY have been helpful, but you also have to consider how that sideways pull will now affect your belayer's ability to give you a catch. You keyboard warriors need to type less and climb more. willgadd.com/anchor-clipping/

@leftystrat62 11 месяцев назад

Did anyone else notice that the yellow piece backing up the pin @ 7:49 --wasn't that improperly clipped? Not trying to chew into this guy, but pretty sure that was not correct.

@lukepangle7510 6 месяцев назад

Nah, that's a good clip. I'd say that's what most climbers would do in the same situation

@r0cknroll4lyfe 6 лет назад

Jeez, you're tall!

@xander3222 7 лет назад

Where is pitch 1?

@FirstPersonBeta 7 лет назад

pace qq It's coming. I had a 3rd person clip of it up but took it down recently (because it didn't really fit with the theme of the channel). I just have to re-shoot it.

@artyparty_av 6 лет назад

World's hardest 5.8 crux

@bobwitt305 5 лет назад

There are harder in the adk just a few hours north

@miljandzudovic 5 лет назад

15:55 How and why your rope has two different texture? Or are they maybe two ropes?

@FirstPersonBeta 5 лет назад

Bi-color rope. 1/2 the rope is one pattern and another for the other 1/2. Makes the 1/2 way point very easy to find and it's easier to determine where you are in the system (how much rope if fed out).

@miljandzudovic 5 лет назад

@@FirstPersonBeta Thank you for the answer! Keep climbing, personally, I really enjoy watching your videos.

@johns3106 4 года назад

I did this climb 25+ years ago...it was pretty polished back then and looks much more "buffed" now!

@olivierhuet9860 6 лет назад

The idea to show the route from the climbers perspective is good and probably gives unexperienced climbers a better understanding of how it feels. I enjoyed it but I started to feel motion sickness from the fifth minute. Nice vid though.

@bonefishboards 4 года назад

That's why I hate those rap routes in the Gunks. Enjoying a nice pitch well off the deck and someone raps by. I just find that annoying. And sometimes, for whatever reason, the rappeller thinks they have right away. I've been hit by more than one rope by inconsiderate rappellers. The ridge trail is actually getting over grown with lack of use. And the truth is, you can walk down and back to your pack at the base of Arrow Wall in 25 minutes.

@mtadams2009 3 года назад

I have not climbed in years but when I did I never rapped unless it was the only way down. There have been many stupid mistakes made over the years. I only wanted to trust my gear when I had to. I also like the hike down.

@gunkclimber 6 лет назад

I'm starting to think you really need to turn the comments off. Has an experienced climber ever given us worthy advice? I'm starting to think the experienced climbers are saying good climb which they can do with the comments off with a thumbs up.

@MrPinxudetortilla 6 лет назад

1. Factor 2 fall is very dangerous and deadly. Even if you are a good climber doesn't mean that you should ignore this in multipitch. What if for whatever reason you fall without protection? A hold pops and byebye to both. 2. When you get to the anchor point, shouldn't you have a locking carabiner to clip yourself and the second? The climb was good but those 2 mistakes are deadly man! Not good, not good! Think that any beginner can watch a video like this one and learn bad practice! Not good!

@cluneclone Месяц назад

Hate to be critical of good video of a classic route but your technical skills are suspect. Be careful bro and climb with someone who has some solid training (and learn something). You waited way to long to place your first piece off the ledge. You put your partner in a shite situation if you take an unexpected whipper. Always place a key first piece to reduce the vectors dude! ...pure physics. Clipping 50 year old petons when a perfect mechanical is right next to it? Sketchy shit...