Trad Climbing CCK Direct at The Gunks, NY

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Starting the Gunks season off right with another ultra classic, Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope or coequally known as CCK. Rather then climb the dihedral to the face, traverse right and up at the crack system, then escape right at the roof (CCK proper), CCK Direct climbs the face into the crack system and escapes left and through the roof.
A beautiful and exposed climb, it's definitely one of the more aesthetic climbs in the Gunks however, in the past few years, this climb has unfortunately seen a large number of accidents. The beginning section off the GT ledge is pretty in your face and a bit run out and the crack/flake system has been known to spit pro (though in my opinion it seems to be pretty solid).

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Опубликовано:

18 июл 2017

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Комментарии : 35

@neonKow 7 лет назад

Your carabiner is stuck open at 9:44. Be careful!

@mtndncer 3 года назад

clearly not paying attention!! Scary!

@thegamerboneless2864 Год назад

I thought I saw the same thing, i rewatched a few times, it was stuck open, it did close after he clipped the line. Good catch though..little misses like that can end your existence fast… 👍

@seanmacnaughton2981 3 года назад

Your channel is a treasure trove

@LiveLaughJordan-oi6tg 3 года назад

Thanks for showing your anchor setup and off belay routine

@charoparedesrodriguez3584 6 лет назад

muy buenos tus videos, y fantásticas vías, especialmente epinephrine.

@NickFalacci 7 лет назад

Very nice lead! I once did CCK and did the direct finish which is awesome. Never got back to do the entire direct route which looks mega-classic. The positions that route puts you in are outrageous. Like all the placements you made, good pro. Only thing I question is you not putting in a piece at the end of the traverse at the very end -- to protect the second a little better. I guess you're thinking the belay line of the rope is in the same place as a piece at the end of the traverse. I just would have put one in to make the second feel a wee bit more comfortable making the crab crawl final move under the roofs. Great, great climb! I must get back!

@FirstPersonBeta 7 лет назад

NickFalacci Good advice. Thanks!

@bonefishboards 4 года назад

I find that 1st mantle move on that pitch off the GT to be the crux. No one else seems to agree with me :)

@rbelatamas 7 лет назад

it was nice climb :)

@arneboveng3756 3 года назад

Great video. Smooth gear placements. A really good tutorial.

@joeytouchstone7585 2 года назад

Just followed on the original variation yesterday. Got stuck at the move standing up on that flake. Kicking myself now for not seeing that spot you put your right foot on.

@kurthoelter3495 2 года назад

love that one, though i dont think i ever did the direct.

@RidiPwn 2 года назад

you have a lot of faith in those two little trees

@jerrycinnamon2257 2 года назад

I agree, the trees have shallow roots just spread out on top of the rock in a very shallow soil layer. Body position of the belayer sitting would help a lot.

@carraigclimbing6449 5 лет назад

Maybe you did it after the video finished before your second started climbing but the screwgate on your anchor wasnt screwed up. Guilty of this myself some times too.. Even though 99% of the time i go through my checks.. Anyway just a little friendly note. love the videos. Keep it lit! Conall

@jakobannerdal3709 7 лет назад

Do you not think that C3 was on a little too unstable flake? Just trying to learn to determine what's OK and not. Also, was the number 3 C4 overcammed? The one you commented on yourself

@jakobannerdal3709 7 лет назад

Also, what was weak about the nut? Seemed real solid

@FirstPersonBeta 7 лет назад

It's never a bad idea to question the security of flakes for pro but in my opinion, the flakes on CCK are more steeply angled cracks then flakes (if that makes any sense). That and the fact the rock in Gunks is bullet hard, I feel pretty confident that C3 would have held a fall. I'm sure many would disagree with me and considering the larger then normal number of accidents that happen on this climb, I could easily be suede but I was absolutely sure I wasn't going to have an epic on this climb and any excuse to usefully dump gear seemed to be a pretty good tactic in this case. As for the #3, there was a slightly wider gap I ended up placing it in and my partner had no problem getting it out.

@FirstPersonBeta 7 лет назад

Hehe, the nut was solid. I was referring to my Burp.

@mattmakescovers 7 лет назад

Lol! I was thinking to myself "That nut seems pretty good.." then I immediately read this comment. 10/10 pro 0/10 burp

@FlatOutFE 3 года назад

Sometimes is better to have less than ideal pro than none at all.

@marksd5650 4 года назад

I’m struggling to understand the length of some of your sling choices. Friction is always a problem, but some just seem absurdly long. Well done entertaining

@FlatOutFE 3 года назад

Ever had a cam walk? That is the reason for the sling extensions.

@msm624 3 года назад

Do you climb at the gunks ? Pretty much Extend everything, overhangs and wandering routes a plenty

@marksd5650 2 года назад

@@msm624 Since the 1960s.

@stevenlopezphoto 4 года назад

Any chance you have pitch 1 on video?

@chris_nunley 3 года назад

Crag sounds like a high school cafeteria

@mainemade300 2 года назад

Why add on to ur dog bone 🦴 the rout not that widening ? An it seems like you go some distance between pro Is it just personal preference,next question are some of the routs boilted for like sport climbing ,gor noobs like me ,thanks I joyed greatly 👍

@garduman 5 лет назад

I love your videos. I have watched many of them. I noticed you did not lock your gate on that locker before you yelled "off belay". I hate to sound like a dick.... but it's just something I noticed. Once again-- love your videos.

@Rooster1020 4 года назад

Have u ever fell?

@wesmcsorley6839 5 лет назад

Will the people at the base of the climb ever shut up? Coffee shops are for socializing #@*

@KubaClimbsRocks 4 года назад

Haha I feel you! I always get weird looks at the crag when I ask people to keep it down or turn their music off...but noise is not what we come to the crags for so I'll always take weird looks over not enjoying the day!

@f_youtubecensorshipf_nazis 3 года назад

is there anything like the dawn wall but only 10 feet up? I don't see why I need to be 1500 feet up to find stuff that's hard to climb.

@Fizbini1 7 лет назад

your a pretty funny dude! u are always signing like you are annoyed... and its always the same time when u do it, trying to find somewhere to place protection...! if you find it stressful finding places to place protection why not do sports routes?! btw thanks for all the wonderful videos. PS any chance you can do some tutorial style multi pitch sport climbing and trad climbing routes, where u show the transitions between climbers ect. there are lots of videos of multi pitch but hardly any of the safety and procedures for the transitions. some of us are too poor for guided training. PS dont worry about me doing something i havent practised many times before applying it in real life, ei getting hurt because not doing it right, isnt an option... you are a pretty smart dude, and i think most people dont place tutorial videos as they dont want the criticism or the getting someone hurt, yet i think if you do something.... u do it right. even if there are way 10 ways of doing something i bet you would pick one of the better ways.... i trust your judgement more then most youtubers..