A dozen tungsten points cost more than my dozen arrows. I'm glad bales and targets around here are soft enough for my cheapo steel points. From a hunting standpoint I had to disagree with your statement on FOC, but for shooting targets I don't think the target cares how much penetration you get. Thanks for another great video.
The voice over with the intro in the corner is a great quality of life upgrade! Maybe though you can put your into on the background and the voice over in the Corner. Also, if you're interested in working with an editor please let me know!!!
Good idea swapping them! Id love help editing but have no budget for that, plus I work off tethering to my phone, ZERO internet available where I live...
Does anyone know what’s the intended use for the pouch the tungsten points come in after you have taken the points out of it? It’s pretty nice pouch just to throw away.
Hey mate can you do a video on arrow weights/what compensations you could make to make up for spine by point weight and spine etc, and where one should start first- and how it could affect barebow crawl- and vane distance from the knock benefits and drawbacks
Great video as always! Thank you so much for the effort. When you started I had no idea your channel would be as awesome as it is. I consider myself pretty proficient in amateur recurve archery and I read A LOT online, and yet, each time you upload a video - I learn something new.
Hi Jake, Thank you for a really good video.i have some newbie question, how to cut a part of arrow tip, do i need to have some tool spacial or just grab and break? Thank you.
Tungsten is really brittle idk abt these field points but I’ve worked with it as light electrodes and it’s really brittle. I rarely miss so I might try em’ .
I have been shooting my nano pros for 5 years now. I can confirm that SS dose tend to break off if you have a rough glance or hard hit (A1 is the way to go with them) However I have gotten the idea that it's not nessicarly the point but actually the shank of the point is much smaller (about 1/3rd or more) since the ID of the arrow is smaller. (all carbon vs carbon jacket) hope this helps.
I have been using Nano arrows for a long time. I started with Nano XR and then jumped into Nano PRO when they were available. I have a few points hitting hard "stone" or a target frame. The easy one to break is the stainless ones. You can also break them when you take them out from hitting the target frame if you are not pulling straight. Never ever wiggle the arrow out! A tip when you break you point and the shaft is still ok. Take out the pin of the nock. Get you self a soldering iron. Find one that has the same size on the tip as the shank that is left in the arrow, so you can heat it up without heating the shaft. Get yourself a brass pin/copper/steel pin that you put in the shaft "from behind". Make it 10-15 cm cm longer then the shaft. press that lightly agains the floor, holding the shaft. Heat up the shank with the soldering iron. And when the glue has melted the shank will come out and you have still a good shaft to shoot with. Just put in a new point and put in the pin for the nock again.
you can technically get a arrow shaft one level down from your bow poundage and get the highest grain arrow point. And cut your shaft to length then slowly back out your grain weight to bare shaft tune your arrows
Thanks for all the work and great videos you put out! High and extreme FOC can be an issue for us that bowhunt IMO, and having practice arrows that have the same FOC as our hunting arrows is important in keeping prepared for the field.
Jake, I new to archery and thinking outside the square on this but when you make a bare shaft do you add weight to the point to substitute the lack of vanes 🤔
But when you ding a point and feeling that ding makes you shoot through the clicker because it felt like it clicked....? Not worth the risk at my level. I understand where you are coming from. Tungstens are investments for the rest of your archery experience for sure, I have used the same dozen for years in dozens and dozens of different arrows.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Every so often I, for reason that have NOTHING TO DO WITH MY SHOOTING SKILL, I end up with an arrow in the wood frame that holds the target butt. I can very frequently save the arrow by twisting it enough to break the glue/point/shaft bond. This leaves me with with everything south of the point. I can use pliers to get the point out; however, this frequently bends the shank making the point unusable. This isn't a major problem as I've got a small jar of 100 grain points and I just take another out and glue it into place at the cost of $1.25. If that cost were $20, I'd take up checkers. I know at your level (two-time Olympic Medal winner that you are), this never happens. But, for us mere mortals...$240 would be better spent on coaching..
@@RichardsModellingAdventures In my arrow set up, the shaft is the most expensive component. I'm not willing to endanger the shaft to save a point. Your set up is certainly different and you should do as you see fit.
Great video as always. I prefer Tungsten because I have shot some straw bosses with hidden points in them that flattened the stainless ones. Received the book, read it twice then emptied half of the stuff I have in a folder in my bag and put it in there ready for my next tuning session.
Hi jake, i’m slightly confuse, heavy points will weaker the spine, but stainless steel point will become longer as it gets heavier,which makes the arrow less flex.does that mean heavier stainless steel arrow does not effect the spine?
As you increase point weight, you make arrow`s dynamic spine weaker. Breaking off the back section of steel points lowers its weight and although it`s shorter inside the arrow, it still makes arrow stiffer, because it`s designed this way.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery Vanes have always intrigued me. I don't think we know enough about vanes cause there are just so many variables. Would love to see your analysis on reverse vanes.
@@JakeKaminskiArchery I'd also enjoy a vid on this. I think it's one of the areas I'm most unsure about in my form. Things like were do you align, opinions on other positions, when in the shot cycle do you aquire your string picture, how string alignment if affected by anchor?
My experience with tungsten points in x10s are not as good :( Once I hit a wooden frame of the bale with an arrow, and the 20 grain break-off part broke off inside the arrow. Also, I lost three points in bales - the tip of the point just broke off and the shank of it remained in the arrow. Also, the risk of losing your point inside a bale is higher than with steel, because the glue surface is higher with steel point.
Gluing in components correctly is a must with the tungstens. consider checking out my video on how to properly glue in components. Once I started using this technique I never lost another point.
