@@chrishanly5682 classic fan upgrade for this model. I've tested them and the IPPC 3000RPM has an outstanding static pressure for a 25mm 120mm fan. Happy quiet mining!
I've attempted this with an L3++ and sadly I can't get the same results. I've set the mining profile preset to ~504 MH/S ~ 660 watts and I've used the Phanteks T30 with the advanced mode switched on. I have to keep the fans at 100% (3000rpm) to keep the miner from overheating and shutting down @ 80C. After 30 min of running, the PCBs are in the low to mid 60s, and the chips are in the low to mid 70s.
If after 30 min the chips are around 70°c, it's perfectly fine! Mine is set at a 75°c target. Those tests were done at an ambient temperature of 21°c, so if you're above that, results may vary. It is very efficient and nice to have during colder season, but during summer, there's not much thing to do other than run the regular fans and endure the noise and the heat... Maybe if you're undervolting it, you could achieve more reasonable temps and keep the T30s. Didn't personally tried it yet. Or, you might have some chips that are getting weak and overheating, thus making the whole machine lose its mind. Keep us posted!
Just to folllow-up on this incase someone is having some of the problems I was. I didn't flash to the vnish firmware because I purchased the miner used and it came with Hiveon preinstalled which seemingly had a similar setting for under clocking the miner. However, on Hiveon, the setting for under clocking is not actually set by just choosing the dropdown, you have to also run the Auto Tuner process. However, even with using the same power supply in the video, I'm still pulling around 790 watts at the wall instead of the 689 watts that the status page is displaying. If I keep the air conditioning nice and cold (just a tad too low for what I feel is comfortable) then I can keep the fans running at 80% (2,340rpm / 2,400rpm) and the hottest chip stays between 73C and 68C. So the results aren't as awesome as in the video, but it's definitely stable, cool, and quiet enough for me. Those Phanteks T30's sure are quiet!! (Be sure to flip the tiny switch on the hub of the fan to ADVANCED mode, or the fan won't exceed 2,000rpm)
@@Raaz- Hi Raz! Please see the comment I just left. Also.. I forgot to add in my original comment that the temperature continued to slowly increase pass the 30 min mark until the board reached 80 and it shut down. It was a slow creep that I could only control even with the A/C being cranked to an uncomfortable level.
About the watts, on the outlet the total output will be higher than the preset of the miner, mainly due to the control board. The 660w preset is for the Hashboards, so the 100w of difference might be just that. Still less than regular setup. Didn't worked with Hiveos, so it must be different a bit. You could change the firmware for the same one as in the video, link is on the website, or I think I saw it in the comments recently. And yes, the T30s can pack a punch without too much noise. But indeed do not forget that little switch, I myself forgot it once and was wondering what was going on 😂
@@Raaz- Thanks for the heads-up regarding the extra wattage probably going to the control board. I think some of it has to do with the PSU as well. I originally had an antminer PSU (the slim one with the super noisy fan) and that setup used about 20-30W less. I'll gladly trade 20-30W for less noise any day! lol I think i'll try vnish at some point. I tried switching to it through the miner gui, but I couldn't get past the signature error even with the hotfix they supply on their site. As I understand it, that means I need to FAT32 format a micro SSD and load on the software that way. I'll tear into it one of these weekends. If anyone has some tips, I'll gladly take any advice I can!
Good catch, changing the Bitmain PSU for a PC one does indeed require a jumper on the motherboard 24 pin connector. The EVGA 1000w PSU that was used in this video already had one with the package, so that detail didn't make it to the final cut of the video. "EVGA detection tool" is the item that was on the PSU. You could also do the jumping yourself, depending of your PSU model. Cheers
