I had too watch this video twice to grasp what you were talking about with the swing measuring. I am glad I did because now I understand about squaring the shingle lines. No other roofing video has been this comprehensive about the initial layout. Thank you for every video you have made available on roofing! And please make more, don’t hold back on your years of knowledge. Share brother!!! :)
Thank you for your video. Based on several of the comments, and the number of negative reviews, it appears that several did not pay attention and listen to what you were saying. The viewer of this video/installer needs to THINK, and apply the techniques in this video to their specific roof. There are many ways to go about laying out a roof. Its the end result that matters, not how you get there. Those leaving negative comments ought to try looking within themselves, first seeking to understand, before being critical.
Is it better to have the tar paper underneath the drip edge all around the perimeter? Or would it be better to have it over top of the bottom edge, and underneath on the sides of the roof?
Yes. It is very possible. First, I am in South Florida and I am using dripedge with a T. (Instead of using square broke or edge metal) There is already a 1/2" overhang. This style is with setting the starter in roof cement and having the seal strip at the bottom. This is for better wind resistance on the edge. I believe that the manufacturers recommendations are to overhang either with the metal dripedge or the shingles themselves. Will have to look. Check out this other video of the dripedge - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-BpOaKJ3njYc.html - You should be able to see the T.
To whom it may concern, and you can correct my if I am wrong, I would recommend hanging your tape measure over the roof edge and pulling it taught in order to mark your measurements up the roof. Holding it loosely over your first line allows for the tape to move which would create an inaccurate spacing potentially. Also, after marking the last line at the top of the roof and then making a line across from there by measuring the same distance down from the ridge (peak of the roof) is a potential issue. If the other rake of the roof (the other side) isn't exactly the same distance from the bottom edge to the ridge, this will create crooked spacing. I would mark the same measurements starting from the bottom of the roof on both sides, that way if the overall distances from bottom edge to ridge are different, at least the only course (row) that will be crooked is the top where it will be covered by ridge shingles. Just my two cents
Partially, I agree with the holding the tape on the edge, but when you start to get into high numbers (and other types of shingles) and different variations of a panel, you will not always be able to do that. On the second part, the whole idea of swinging the tape is to "split" any discrepancies over all the middle rows and make the 2 places you can see (the edge and the ridge) straight. Your eyes won't see an 1/8 of an inch split between 20 rows of shingles. If the rows are not straight and your ridge is then you will see the crooked row. I have seen rows just die out in the middle of a ridge and that just means that there were no lines. You would have to see it in action. There are many ways to lay out a panel. Thank you for the comment.
What is the measurement of the vertical lines popped? You did not show this in this video but in your video on laying 3 Tab shingles they are drawn in. Thanks
Nice video. I was unclear when it mentioned the "swing tape method" in the popup text when you were discussing if your tape was 71" instead of 70". So for Tamko architecture shingles I would go 11" because there is a 1/8 loss from each row?
Yes, or you could do the math. 11" always worked for me. I think it would end up using a little more material, but on a house it wouldn't be a lot. On a big commercial building it might add up.
Now with the method you mentioned if the right side was 71" I would think it would automatically adjust for the extra inch by measuring down from the top? Or would I need to add 1/8" to the first eight rows or the last eight rows? Thanks
Measure your 18" from the bottom and snap a line across at 18" (or 17" for 3-tabs) Then on one side, measure up at 11" intervals (10" for 3 tabs). When you get to the last one then measure down from the ridge to that last mark. Then go to the other side and measure down the same distance and make a mark, snap a line. Now you are needing marks on the other side to snap lines in between the two lines you popped. This is where swinging the tape comes in. If the second mark is past your 77" (70" for 3 tabs) then you will have to make up the difference and come up a couple of rows adding 1/8" each time then do it again with the remaining 3-5 rows. You can also pop lines every 5 1/2" (5" for 3 tabs). Or you can just switch sides. Sometimes it is better to measure each side after the bottom line is popped and mark the side that has the most inches. Then you can swing the tape for the other side. All you are doing is evenly splitting up the difference in the middle so your ridge and drip are straight. Because your eyes won't see any variation in the field unless it is drastic, but you can surely see a row that disappears, right?
Thanks for clarifying things. The reason I asked about the "auto adjustment" is because I am doing it on a triangle shaped part of the roof so I am not able to see how long the other side is unless I had some mad math skills. I like the way you explained things now I can understand your concept. One last thing, when I marked 11" up which removed the 1/4" from the next two shingles, and then proceeded to put down the second shingle (after my first shingle touching the eave) it is lined up where it normally is on the top of the reveal however, the third shingle that hits the chalk line has a 1/4" over lap. Am I doing this wrong? Shouldn't each shingle have a 1/8" over lap if I marked it at 11"? Thanks for all your help.
I didn't notice you had replied. We call those "hip to hip" and you don't swing the tape for those panels. Only where you have a ridge. The idea is so you can see a straight eave and a straight ridge. So you would just measure up after you snap the 18" line across the bottom, then measure up 11, 22, 33, etc, then move over when you get to the hip or can't make another mark. Not swing over, but move over so you are perpendicular with the bottom line. Then as you get closer to the top your crows feet marks will be closer and closer together. You won't see anything because the hip dies into another hip, unless of course, it was really crooked. This can happen, usually if one person skips a mark. Then the line would be crooked - be careful of this. So many things to consider.
This is a basic concept to "straighten" out a panel. Very rarely will a roof panel be perfectly square. This method is a way to keep the ridge straight so there are no "dying courses", which is what you see. Then splitting the difference over all the other courses (or every other) in the center of the panel, which you won't see. Instead of adding a little here or there. Swing the tape. Not needed on every single job as sometimes it works out just right.
You would run the tape up the opposite side of the valley, then get a line across the top and bottom. Then you can either swing the tape towards the valley on the valley side or measure up one or two marks at a time to get the marks closer to the valley.
When I measure my lines next to a valley what I do is start from the eve give my starter marks is close to the valley as I can and then continue to just pull my marks disclose into the valley but people have different methods
