Assembling the Tesla Gearbox

Подписаться 860

Просмотров 4,4 тыс.

50% 1

In this episode, I assemble the Tesla Large Drive Unit Gearbox. Learn and do better :-)
Updates
1) Thread sealant is probably better for the differential bolts oil-tightness. - Thank you@Paul Young
2) Loctite 648 may not be the correct adhesive for the intermediate shaft bearings but I am not sure. Thanks @Al Savage
3) Use a softer material like brass instead of socket extensions to push bearing (etc) in. Thanks @Al Savage
4) The plastic oil pump gear is secured with something called an "E-clip", not a C-clip. Thanks @Al Savage
5) Sensor wire fishing: Instead of tape, use a short piece of shrink tubing to compact/compress the fish hook/wire against the wire-to-be-pulled. Thanks @ Al Savage
6) RTV gasket maker test at Project Farm: • Best RTV Gasket Maker?...
Timestamps
0:00 intro
0:24 asemble primary and secondary gear shafts
3:04 assemble oil pump assembly
3:30 differential
4:38 mount oil pump gear and c-clip
5:03 I added more liquid electrical tape
5:23 mount primary and secondary shaft bearings
6:10 dry fit, fight with wire!
8:00 apply liquid sealant to mating surfaces
9:17 clear coolant hole and add bolts
See also
sites.google.com/view/teslald...
www.myrav4ev.com
Disclaimer
This video is for entertainment purposes only. All work you do on your car is at your own risk.
Keywords
Toyota RAV4 2012 2013 2014 Mercedes B-class Electric Drive Tesla Model S large drive unit LDU motor BEV glycol coolant fluid Zerex G48 automatic transmission fluid ATF Dexron VI leak battery aegis ring bearing bearings grinding noise CAD model PTFE teflon rotary lip seal failure drain housing rotor shaft repair common mode grounding runout eccentricity fluting wear axial radial play speed sensor check rebuild assemble disassemble vent reluctor ring expensive cheap repair DIY out of warranty

Авто/Мото

Опубликовано:

7 июл 2024

Ссылка:

Скачать:

Готовим ссылку...

Добавить в:

Мой плейлист

Посмотреть позже

Комментарии : 18

@EVBoxster Год назад

Another excellent video. Rather than thread lock, you can use thread sealer for those 6 bolts on that diff retaining plate.

@diyEVguy Год назад

Good point, thanks!

@alsavage1 Год назад

Agreed, as this range of Loc-Tite products are anerobic sealants and do not "harden" in the presence of oxygen. They require no gaps in order to set up, and will remain liquid in free air. Diff bolts: Loc-Tite works great on threaded assemblies that have a reasonable fit tolerance, but the looser the fit, the less likely to obtain full strength, and on a nylon-to-aluminum face surface like this, I would expect it to be ineffective. --- Loc-Tite 648: it's rated for a maximum gap of 0.15mm. While it's the same color as the green glue residue you found, I suspect it's not the same product. My familiarity with the Loc-Tite "green" products is for mating sleeved (coaxial) assemblies, so I'd be applying it to the bore and bearing OD surfaces, rather than the back/bottom of the bore.

@alsavage1 Год назад

Generically, when using a a drift to push things into bores (etc.), the material of the drift should be softer than the material you're pushing. Hardwood is fine, but that socket extension's hardness approaches tool steel, and is too hard compared to the bearing's race. Kudos for the friction tape wrap on the radiused end, but after the first blow or two, it's no longer a force-absorbtive surface. A mild steel rod (common hardware-store shafting, 5/8" dia./16mm) is my go-to for this. The rod will mushroom in use, which is a valued sign that excess force is accepted by the rod, not the bearing or counterbore. (I have brass drifts for persuading, say, cast-iron assemblies, as you just about can't damage cast iron by pushing with brass.) --- Your "c-clip" is commonly called an "e-clip", a more specialized variety of circlip. Lighter-duty than a c-clip, but it doesn't require a specialty tool for install/remove. E-clips are only used where there is negligible or no axial load. --- When fishing smaller wires like this, where you can have more than one attempt, I have successfully used a short section of heat-shink tubing to mate the "fish-hook" to the wire. it makes for a nice small OD.

@diyEVguy Год назад

Thanks again! Makes me curious what you do for a living!

@omarmalyomarmaly9323 Год назад

Кар - кар - кар кар пролетела ворона :)

@Top12Boardsport Год назад

Thanks very impressive. My model S 2015 has a klonk sound at low speed when I press the gas pedal and the same klonk sound when I take my foot of the gas pedal. Do you think that sound could come from the gear box ?

@diyEVguy Год назад

Could be a CV joint in the half shaft too, especially if it happens while in a turn. Easier to fix by replacing the half shaft. Not sure though.

@Top12Boardsport Год назад

@@diyEVguy no this is the rear and on flat smooth road.

@Top12Boardsport Год назад

@@diyEVguy found the problem splines on half shaft gone bad.

@dwilley3754 Год назад

I am rebuilding a 2020 Tesla model 3 and I noticed my front drive unit looks like it’s been leaking oil for a while. I would like to drain the old oil out and refill to find the leak. Online people say to use ATF-9 oil but Tesla switched to EDF-2 fluid at some point. Tesla told me my unit was filled with EDF-2 when it was new. I am not able to find EDF-2 and Tesla will not sell it. I would like to use a different oil all together. Something like Amsoil manual transmission gear oil. The viscosity is very similar and is made for gearboxes. I know the model S uses dexron 6. My only concern is if the oil is in contact with electrical components (like windings) and could cause issues. Do you think the oil needs to be a special kind to work in these drive units or would something like dexron 6 work fine? Thanks.

@diyEVguy Год назад

In general, oils are good insulators, but this decreases as they age. Better than coolant obviously ha. I do not know about your case, but my first thouht is to look at the ProjectFarm youtube channel because he often sends oils for analysis to labs so maybe it is not that expensive. If you send the lab a sample of Dexron VI and a sample of your current EDF-2 (and ATF-9), the reports may be able to tell you whether is is simlar enough. You could maybe make a youtube episode out of this 🙂

@dwilley3754 Год назад

So I have heard that the oil is actually in contact with the motor windings. Do you know if this is true? Others say the oil is just in passages around the stator to cool the motor. If the oil doesn’t touch the motor I would think any good quality oil would do just fine.

@diyEVguy Год назад

@@dwilley3754 for M3 I don't know. Maybe the Weber Auto RU-vid channel has the answer?

@omarmalyomarmaly9323 Год назад

3:35 is it normal that 2015 mers b250 electric drive didnt have this o-ring?

@diyEVguy Год назад

I don't know, maybe in 2015 that ring was no longer needed.

@omarmalyomarmaly9323 Год назад

@@diyEVguy 30 minutes ago i buyght this oring for 20 $ i think some body forgot to set in gear , pn 1002592-01-X