Yes, moisture is hard on air tools, hence the inline dryers and auto tank drainage systems. I'm surprised that there wasn't lubrication in the hammer chamber, most half inch guns have a oil filled, sealed hammer chambers or an opening between the motor and chamber to receive a portion of the daily air motor lubrication. I have also found that if I skip lubrication for even one day, my gun immediately looses power, particularly on cold days. Nice video, thx.
It was very greasy and oily when I first opened it up. I cleaned it up with my parts washer then I decided to do the vid so I temporarily put it together. That is why it looks so clean. Great to her from you!!
One thing to look at with an impact gun this big is the amount of air youre feeding it. They take a lot. Using oil down the inlet pipe definitely helps the vanes last longer and seal up a bit better
Always put a drop of pneumatic oil in there before the first use of the day. I've had tools used for decades that stayed serviceable because they were oiled and well kept.😎
@@Enonymouse_ no need to go extreme on the oil, but i find as long as you see the exhaust damp and oily youre probably oiling it enough. Couple drops every few days works wonders
saludos desde mexico apenas tuve oportunidad de ver este video es un buen tutorial , particularmente uso la cp sobre otras marcas, gracias por compartir estos videos
Airline / filter / lubricator issue. I will spray some rust inhibitor It on my guns if I think I won't be using them for awhile. FluildFilm works great. Great video.
Hi great to hear from you... It just floats freely in the cage. And as the nut begins to tighten "IE resistance".The hammer begins to swinging on its pivot point very rapidly creating that hammer noise these air impact guns are so famous for. Every time it hammers it will multiply your torque output of the gun. It is very important this mechanism works properly or the torque of the impact will be non existent.
I watched this video because I'm rebuilding my Ingersoll IR285B, and I can tell you that its exactly the same procedure. Every last part looks identical! My vanes were stuck as well, with lots of rusty gunk, and I constantly oil my guns! Go figure? Thanks for posting ;)BTW are you from Utah? I have a friend in Utah and you have the same accent. Just sayin.......
Hi... When changing from forward to reverse it just changes the flow of the air in the cylinder and changes the direction it hits the veins on the rotor.
Yeah I know that part that it changes the direction of flow, I wanted to know which part inside the rotor or cylinder is responsible for it. Actually I am making a modified version of pneumatic wrench in 3D modelling software and your video has actually helped a lot in that procedure. If its possible for you to point that out it would be great.
You can still use it. It'll just be slower. I can remove semi lugs with my Aircat 1992 and Harbor Freight 21 gallon. I just need to be patient between lugs. And the truck's own air ran it enough to get transverse beam nuts off. Those things are 1-7/8" nuts on a 1-1/4" stud and don't get removed very often. If ever.
Hi... The only thing I can think is your rotor bearing may not be spinning freely. It's kind of like a windmill scenario. It allows the veins to spin the rotor it will just blow past the veins and out the exhaust.
Not sure why. On semi trucks with "bud" style wheels all the left side are left handed lugs. All of the right side are right handed lugs. Thanks for watching!!
@@desvariosdeuncamionero8856 Yup. I have a 1957 Chevy pickup. The left rear wheel lugs are backwards threaded. I didn't know this. In trying to remove that tire the first time I could not get one lugnut to loosen. The other three wheels didn't fight me. So I set up my compressor and went from a 4-way to a 3/4 inch impact wrench. That didn't work. Tired of screwing around I got a breaker bar and a 6 foot length of 1in black pipe for extra leverage. Those lugnuts and that wheel we're damned well coming off. A friend had stopped by and asked "what ya doing?" He listened and didn't say much. Just watched as I got the breaker bar with the impact socket on the lugnut. Then the pipe. As I was getting ready to give a heave and no doubt snap that lug my friend did ask if I was aware the lugs we're reversed threaded. On that left rear drum. On old trucks. Learned something that day.
I've watched this video before but didn't remember your comment that the CP gun was more powerful than the earthquake!? I looked around before buying an earthquake myself, with the sole purpose for the most part being trying to remove hydraulic rod bolts that hold the pistons on. I've got an old Case 580B I'm trying to redo the seals on the outrigger cylinders and all the backhoe cylinders. An 8ft cheater bar wouldn't budge any of them. Waiting on some additional compressor parts & hoses before I took a crack at it with the earthquake, but maybe I should have bought an old CP? The torque rating on the earthquake according to harbor freight is 2500, the highest I saw anywhere, what the hell is the torque on that CP? Maybe you've got a super pro expensive one there, I noted it's got a spline drive, bet those sockets are out of my budget too.
It might be a dumb question but are you certain they are not left handed threads? The biggest factor with these big guns is having enough air 1/2 air hose is a must. 160 psi and at least 15cfm compressor to push it. Beyond that heating up the threaded end "if possible" will be you best friend.
@@arcounited While I am not certain I have tried both ways, also the guy at the local hydraulic repair shop did not mention that, nor have I seen it mentioned on any of the various threads that I have read about left handed rod bolts on the Case 580 series. I will be trying more heat again. I was mostly curious about the torque rating on that CP more than anything, or other guns that would be rated above the earthquake at 2500 ft lbs. I am putting together a 1/2" line system low budget style first, and if it doesn't seem to have the mustard I may get the dewalt 30 gallon from local TSC for 429 and remove the main plug and adapt in a larger one and T off it for a 1/2 or bigger line and screw the original assembly into the top of that so I can have 1/2" and 1/4" on it. The low budget build is a 10 gallon portable tank, remove the stinky little restricted fittings altogether, put new 1/2" fittings in and charge it with my little compressor and hope I can get at least a 3 second or so burst on the 1" earthquake at full power, charge & repeat. The earthquake is rated at 90psi, and it says "max" on it, so I didn't think it should be pushed beyond that at static pressure to achieve 90psi working pressure. Thought that might damage it.
A 10 gallon would not be enough CFM I think that's your main issue. Also it's 90 PSI working pressure which can only be achieved if your static pressure is around 160psi. It's not going to damage the gun I have ran mine at 160 PSI for over 10 years.
Good to know... I have always used air tool oil maybe not every time but at least once every third use. I think the biggest problem with this failure was dew to all the moisture in the air lines. Check out my air compressor video I have done a similar moisture trap on my portable compressor and has helped alot. Thanks for the comment!
Take it back and get a new one? Don't forget $250. This thing was about 4 years out of warranty it's"earth quake" not "Snap on"... LOL Thanks for watching.
oh nice, what is the min size tank i can use, and how to you calculate cfm? can you do a video on your set up and what you use and how to connect to the engine/motor gas or electric?
Dude, wear gloves when your working with freaking lithium grease, and ive never torn down an airgun, but im quite sure you want to use assembly oil, not grease.
Why glove? Daddy always said the only thing you can do with gloves on your hands is piss you pants!! Lithium grease cleans off easy. The only time I ware nitrile gloves is when using the parts washer my hands will stink for days if not. Yeah there is probably some special lube to use I just used what I had available at the time. Thanks for watching!
SKIN PROTECTION: Gloves are not normally needed during normal conditions of use. If health effects are experienced, oil or chemical resistant gloves such as butyl or nitrile are recommended. This is off the MSDS for lithium grease. Hear is the link...panef.com/pdf/MSDS%20WGA-6.pdf
Inline 6 CTD "if health effects are experienced." Not worth the gamble if you ask me. You might go take a piss and develop a rash on your peter, when you could just wear gloves.
Inline 6 CTD 140 :0 psi no exced? the manual i have one and say well 90psi 3/4 internal hose and other things i need help you know the compressor is 22.5 cfm
DIG...90 psi "working pressure". So if you were to put an air press gauge on your gun and you were only at 90 psi on you regulator you will find while using the gun the "working pressure" would drop to around 60 psi so at 140 psi that will bring your "working pressure" to around 100 psi.
