I think we make the same amount of mistakes. I believe if we combined both of our minds we would create and unbelievable photographer that would never make a mistake :). Great videos my man.
Awesome that you corrected the guard. Over zealous guards can be easy to ignore but then they will pull the same bs. on someone else who doesn't know the law.
Yeah it's a tough one. I didn't want to be one of those abrasive, argue-for-the-sake-of-arguing type people. The fact was, it wasn't even a good photo, and I was already done with the scene and ready to move on when he came up to me. Plus there are PLENTY of abrasive, argumentative people out there on RU-vid, and they irritate me quite a bit. Plus the security guard was probably not the person to argue with, it sounded like he had been told stuff by someone else etc etc. Was i going to demand to see his boss and argue it out in the street? For a better photo maybe... but not for that one!!
We’ve all been there….great video, nonetheless. I have discovered that the XH-2 is also brass under the paint…or at least the foot of it is. It’s worn off from putting it on a S2A hand grip.
Ahh is it? Interesting!! Still don't think I'll sandpaper this one. I think the styling is already quite retro. But not surprised the foot is wearing... it's a snug fit isn't it??!!
Between 36mm*24mm and "4.5*6" (= 56mm*45mm) image formats you have a 1.7 crop factor, so the 250mm has a (diagonal) angle comparable to a 150mm lens on "full frame" Tradition has it that "lens angles" are published for the image diagonal of the format, if no qualifiers are added. Your "nifty fifty" should be 83mm.
I have the first version and have had o issues with it, only slight gripe is how easy it is to accidentally spin the selector wheel. As per the multi exposure issue, Id like to challenge anyone with a full Manuel camera to prove they haven't done it several times, 🤣I know i have!
I think this latest version of the light meter is more robust. I found the AH-M1 similarly fiddly, but they really seem to have upped their game with this one. Appreciate the solidarity with the multi exposure switch!!! I do wish I would learn from my mistakes though..........
Oh gosh, what a journey. As annoying as it is, “pilot error” is always preferable to “engine malfunction”; hopefully lesson learned and checking those 2 things becomes part of your standard muscle memory checklist and you won’t have that again. I have to admit I’m slightly disappointed you didn’t show us your multi shot collages…. As much as my brain doesn’t cope well with menus and button push routines, it strikes me that these new generation meters should be prime candidates for allowing a setup calibration and then auto adjustment for filters. Any thoughts on that idea?
Ha ha! A journey indeed. I was so frustrated with myself. I think switching between cameras so much doesn't do me many favours. For the first shoot I actually didn't think about the fact that the ETRS had a battery. Then it was about the fifth thing that popped into my head when troubleshooting, and even then I failed to remember that the ETRS has a battery test button!! Didn't remember that until I was filming the end! I think the trade off with these new meters is complexity vs size. They want to make them as small as possible and the things that take up space are buttons and wheels. And if you're only putting in one button and one wheel, there's a limit to how many button press combinations you're going to remember out in the field. This meter also has the ability to offer +1, +2 etc., exposure compensation, but I never got as far as trying to commit that buttons sequence to memory!
Dood, I've owned an ETR for 5 years and I still mess up the multiple exposure switch, lol. I have stopped using the speed grip because it helps me remember about the double exposure lever. I also use the AEIII prism. Why? The meter in the prism dies when the main battery dies😁
Ahhh that's a good tip! And I do have a metered prism on the ETRS, but of course I wasn't using it because I was testing the light meter. I'm not a big fan of the speed grip usually anyway, for some reason I love the feel of winding on with the handle. But I had to use the speed grip here because it has the cold shoe... it was always a recipe for disaster!
@@the120ist So this conversation reminded me that I had ordered a third-party grip to try off Amazon and it's been sitting there in the box for like 6 months because I got busy with work. "Micro Single Camera Universal Side Handle Vertical Shooting L Plate Bracket" made by "M-REMOTE". I just tried it and it is instantly my new favorite thing. I use the 45-90mm zoom on the ETR on a regular basis, and not having a dedicated grip when using that particular lens is rough. This new grip I just put on the left side and it has tons of clearance for my big hands and doesn't block the switches on the right side now like the speed grip does. I expect it will remain mounted on that camera indefinitely now. I can't believe I forgot about it, would love to have been using it for the last many months. Also, just to call it out, the 45-90mm is better at infinity than any of the 40mm and 50mm primes😁 The reviews online were mixed, but it is an amazing lens. I've tested it on digital with the Fotodiox shift adapter and it would be near impossible to determine shots taken on the Bronica zoom vs the 24-105mm Canon L, other than the aperture difference. I even would say the Bronica edges out the Canon at 90mm by a hair. Of course, it's an absolute monster of a lens size and weight-wise with a 95mm filter thread, but hey, it's a medium format zoom!
I was recently given an ETRS and it acts up with a battery that gets low in voltage. It just sucks the juice. I'm honestly thinking of rigging up a mini external battery pack.
How often are you having to change the battery? Half my problem is that my ETRS just doesn't use up the batteries, so I forget that they even have one! I think I've probably had this battery in for at least a year, maybe more.
Great review thanks! On the last roll in the City of London can I ask please if you think the roll was overexposed or the lightness of the images is more to do with your scanning of it and editing in post? Were thr negatives well exposed or over exposed in your opinion?
I have the original AstrHori meter, which I find a bit hit and miss. I've seen reviews where people have said that the XH-2 is more accurate / reliable / stable. Have you compared them? I'm considering buying the new model to use with my Bronica SQ Ai and my Yashica Mat 124G, but should I? Big question. I also saw one review where the person said to look around for something that looked 18% grey to point the meter at for more accurate readings. Did you see variations in your exposures (the ones that you managed to get, that is)? Did you just show us the ones that were OK and not any that were under / over exposed? I first tried the Doomo D meter. It was a couple of stops out compared to my digital cameras and a Seko meter. When I complained to the seller, they told me to buy a new camera. Their meter was spot on! I won'r ever deal with them again. I threw that meter away. A complete waste of money.
I definitely do select the better images to show in videos, but I wasn't aware of there being great exposure discrepancy. My thinking on a meter like this is - it's a 30 degree reflected light meter... how accurate do I really need it to be? I was mostly using it as a guide and making up my own mind from there. Because unless you're pointing it at a plain background, this thing is taking in light from all over the place. If you're pointing the camera up a bit, it's metering lots of sky and a little bit of foreground, point it down and it's mostly foreground, but you're still getting sky. And it's averaging out what it's seeing. So I wasn't really thinking to put it through its paces and really check for absolute accuracy. It seems to me like a good guide, but if you need seriously accurate meter readings, then none of these sub $100 hotshoe meters would be high on my list.
Did you calibrate the lenses for their transmission value, for their shutter deviation, and focus/aperture breathing? And did you include your film with its processing into that as well? Subsequently did you figure out "correct exposure" in your opinion with the different combinations? The video implies you did not. There's cans of worms with rabbit holes in here. Measuring the subject gives readings that depend on the subjects brightness. ISO does not define correct exposure. Measuring (incident) light has its own rabbit holes.
This comment is literally sucking the joy out of photography across the world 😂. Seriously, though, yeah there are tons of technical details to be considered when trying to define “correct” exposure. But, I tend to find it’s more relative than absolute. My goal is to capture a good dynamic range based on subject reflectivity. The Zone System is, obviously, based around that same idea. In the end, I want a good negative with all the tones in their relative places and within a total exposure that fits nicely within the film’s capabilities. It’s akin to using the histogram to determine exposure on digital. It needs to be able to work with reflected values because that’s what I’m capturing. But, anyway…rabbit holes galore…..I agree. BTW, I know about focus breathing, but I don’t know if I’ve ever heard the term “aperture breathing”. What is that exactly? And how do either of those affect exposure? I’m genuinely curious. This could very well be one of the things I learn today.
Yeah I didn't do any of that. What you saw is what I did... I put the light meter on the camera and I went and took photos. And they came out fine. Therefore, having examined my results carefully and carried out several statistical tests on some numbers I made up, I can confidently conclude that this light meter is... fine.
We all know there is the opportunity out there to get into this kind of detail... but reading a comment like that makes me want to head out and shoot blindfolded. In fact, the daughter of a friend of mine made some headlines a decade ago or so because she was severely visually impaired, almost completely blind, but enjoyed her photography nonetheless. Her images were amazing, and carried such weight because of the process she went through. They were all boldness and contrast, geometry and shapes. A good one to keep in mind when we find ourselves deep in one of these rabbit holes!
@@jpdj2715 I'm sorry, I didn't mean to be dismissive. I do appreciate the comment, and you're raising important points. My brain doesn't want to go there though. I think in my head there are so many variables, not least the older cameras, shutter speed accuracy, clarity of old lenses etc etc., that the kind of detailed calculations you're talking about aren't something I want to get into. Plus, I'm pretty sure that if you subjected this light meter to that kind of scrutiny, it probably wouldn't fare fantastically. A qualitative, skin-deep assessment is what I set out to do, and that's what I delivered, so I'm ok with it. but for sure there are man more considerations.
A little harsh perhaps? Given that the Fuji X-H2 is a camera and this a light meter? I'm no defender of Chinese rip offs, but I think that's a stretch!
