Astrodymium Rings for Samyang 

I have both full frame and crop Canons Baader modified, so I will definitely be shooting Orion in widefield this season!

Glad I could help!

Awesome! Mine has not let me down yet. I look forward to getting some more videos out as soon as can clear up some health (and weather!) issues. Thanks for the comment! Where in Scotland are you? I do get there occasionally...

Welcome! I'm just getting over a nasty bout of COVID and hope to be making new videos soon! Stay tuned!

Thanks! Lets me mount it on a small tracker or larger go to mount with ease!

Thanks, I appreciate that! I'm new at this, so the encouragement helps!

The screws included were only the ones I described. There were 2 screws that fit the bottom holes of the rings. They are fairly shallow socket head screws that fit very well in the random 6" Celestron plate I had lying about. Your mileage may vary...some plates may not have the proper screw hole spacing, so if you are buying one, make sure you look for a slotted plate.

This kit is specific to the lens, I have used it with both dslr and dedicated astro cameras successfully!

I have not had the opportunity to use one yet.

To be honest, I'm not sure. If you know the measurements of both, you could compare them. Try the Cloudy Nights forum...I'm sure someone has done a comparison on these lenses, including size differences.

The rings attach to a Vixen rail and slide right into the mount. The guide camera just clears the camera body. It fits and works very well. This is my most used rig.

astrodymium.com/products/astrodymium-rings-for-samyang-rokinon-135mm-f-2-lens This is their website, the rings are also available on Etsy.

@@astromeathead1910 thank you

I agree that in a studio setting or in daylight photography, the L series is a much better option. For this application (astrophotography) the Samyang 135mm that I own far outshines the Canon 135mm L that I own. I absolutely prefer the Samyang for night shooting, as I have no purple fringing or chromatic aberration whatsoever at f/2.8, whereas my Canon typically needs to be stopped down to f/5.6 or more to lose the anomalies (c.a. will typically be greatly reduced at f/4 unless you are pixel peeping, but fringing from purple to blue occurs all the way to f/8 in some circumstances). The a/f motors in the Canon restrict a bit of the light passing through the barrel and that may account for some of it, but the way the elements/ groups are configured in the Samyang just allow for great low light responsiveness.