I've been very happy with it. The shortness of the hose hasn't been a problem. It just has to set close to the work area. It really is not much shorter than soldering iron lead. I would buy it again that's for sure.
hi i bought an atten ms 300 including st-862d and my user manual is in Chinese and your video is so useful for me, tnx a lot ❤️ but COL or holding handpiece button for cold air function not working for me? am i missing something?
Glad it helped. No if I hold the button for right at 2 seconds it switches to cold air mode. Never used it other than to try the function out. Mine is version U03. So I don't know. They might have done away with that function in later versions.
Is that the ac filter mounted on the inner rear vertical panel inside the station's housing? It is to prevent feedback into the building's electrical system by the switching in the control of the temperature.
I really don’t know. I couldn’t find a parts list. I know on the web page they listed the heater, stand and heat gun. But it was such a good price that even without the parts list, I order one. Been very happy with it. I do try not to kink the hose. It might be hard to find silicon tubing that size.
I was going to say something about your airflow at about the 16 minute mark, but it looks like you figured it out. If you just want to blow a board clean, then yeah, crank everything up and go to town. But, generally speaking, with hot air, you want to be as hot as you can be with very low airflow - especially when installing parts. My go-to setting for both installation and removal is 840°F and anywhere from 10% (lowest possible) to 15% airflow, depending on the surrounding components, ground/power planes, etc. Also: Whether removing or installing, always heat the part evenly from all sides. That way, you can avoid heat-stressing the parts and burning the PCB itself by overdoing dwell time. One last thing: I know it's hard to fight the temptation, but don't poke and pull at a part while you're heating it. (Just asking for lifted pads and ripped up traces that way.) If you do everything right, you should see it come loose on its own and start to float on the liquid solder, at which point you grab it or use a pick to flip it over or whatever. Still, though - if that's your first try, you did way better than I did my first time around. Good job!
@@ceejay_gaming9636 Just keep practicing. It took me a lot of tries to get it right. Working with hot air takes quite a bit of finesse and no small amount of patience. I'd also recommend any or all of: a magnifying headset, a strong magnifier, or even a stereo/binocular microscope.
Over a minute a half nothing moves😂😂😂😂 400F is 204C. rolf. 240C is melting point for leadfree solder and around 350C is needed on hotair . why such people making videos where they dont know the basics..
There is a good "comedian" in Russia, his surname is Zadornov. So - about the "Americans" he says this: "Well, STUPID!" and that's a fact. Watching the review, HALF of which is stupidly WANDERING IN THE SETTINGS (read the instructions? WHY!), and the second is an attempt to desolder the "chips" at temperatures at which nothing can melt ... I think - Zadornov was right after all! To begin with - why would DDR2 be soldered to "lead solder" ??? Since the time of SDRAM, everything has been soldered to "lead-free"! So the MINIMUM temperature of the hair dryer should be 450°F !!! It's just to try and melt. For actual desoldering, you need to set the temperature at least 100 degrees higher. I'm sorry. I judge by myself - we have stronger "degrees" here. In your "imperial" number system - 200 ° should be set higher. Total - 650°F!!! And then. what you have done is more like an attempt to "denigrate" this station.