ATV Starter Issues, Diagnose and Repair a Not Cranking China ATV! 

I have 220 Kawasaki bayou I put a new starter on it and it only click need some help

@@donaldgrissett3054 beat it with a wrench while its clicking

My button just went to. I'm thinking of just wiring a new switch to the relay (solinoid) just a push button that completes the circuit because it'll start right up if I touch both relay bolts together

This video hurt my head and made me feel sad. Although breaking to start seems counterintuitive.

Im stuck with a fob key starter not working on my 350😂😢

Sounds like the starter clutch

Have you made any videos of this?

@@TheJoshBucklew I haven't yet, but i will on the next one. Pretty much like Harvey says, making the CDI happy is the goal. I always start by connecting the stator and cdi, dont worry about the yellow and white wires until later, all you need is the 3 other wires, ground, ignition timing and ac power. Then run your black and white from the cdi to your kill switch, switch to ground. Then ignition wire to ignition coil, other coil connection to ground. I try to consolidate my grounds. Grab a spare spark plug and check for spark. Arc across the starter solenoid, the machine should fire off, given an ok carb.

@@LilQSlice thank you! I got mine started a few weeks ago, but I put the throttle tube thing (you can tell I know what I’m talking about 😅) in backwards, so when it fired up, it was full throttle. Anyways, my starter wire and my spark wire melted to the exhaust and shorter. I replaced every electrical component, plus starter and stator, then wiring harness. No start. So I replaced the carb once more. Still no start. I am wondering if the compression is off, like he shows in the video here.

@@TheJoshBucklew Are you getting spark? If not, disconnect the kill switch wire from the cdi by pulling out the pin from the connector. Plug in a spare spark plug and crank the engine while touching it to the frame. If it ran before the electrical snafu, the compression will be the same. If it sparks with no kill switch, then you might have a bad safety switch somewhere that is connecting to ground.

@@LilQSlice alright, so I disconnected the safety switch from the CDI and got spark off the plug onto the frame. How should I start looking for grounds on the other wires if I don’t have a volt meter?

some dont require you to hold the brake to start it.

Did you find out?

Your videos help me understand

I’m having the same issues,did you fix it ?

Mines doing the same. Trying to figure it out did u figure out the problem?

Hey mine is doing the same thing. Just put a new battery in, it cranked over good but the carb was dirty so I took it off to clean it. Put in back in then the button wouldn't work, but I could jump the solenoid and it will run.

Did you ever get a fix for your issue

You may have cleaned the carb, but you still have a blockage preventing the fuel from either getting into the carb ( peacock, fuel line, fuel filter, or the float needle/seat ) or from being drawn up into the metering circuits from which it is metered into the venturi. These metering circuits are the jets, passage ways in the carb body, emulsion tube, main jet air bleed, pilot jet air bleed, and the air/fuel mixture screws. The passage ways, ad the holes in the jets are tiny, like .025 to .065 inches in diameter. This means the smaller ones are a little smaller than a small sewing needle. To be cleaned properly the carburetor has to be completely disassembled, including removing the pressed in Welsh plug that blocks access to the Air/Fuel mixture screws which must be removed so the Idle circuit can be cleaned out and confirmed clear by spraying carb cleaner through the idle circuit and verifying that it comes out of the small hole/holes in the venturi near the throttle butterfly. The same test must be performed with each circuit. The jets should be clear enough that when you hold them up to the light and look through the hole running thru the center of them you can see light. After all is confirmed clear and you put the carb back together you will need to adjust the Air/Fuel mixture screws and Idle speed screw. I'd suggest if you really want to do this carb clean and adjustment service yourself that you either watch 1 or more videos about cleaning and adjusting ATV/Motorcycle carbs, purchase a book that covers "General Repairs for ATVs" that includes an in depth section on carb function, cleaning, repair, and troubleshooting, or you find somebody to make friends with locally who knows this stuff and doesn't mind coaching you through it. The other option is simply purchase a new carburetor. New carburetors for most single carburetor ATV/Motorcycle engines are available from a wide number of companies on the internet as well as actual powers ports shops that deal with Chinese quads, scooters, motorcycles, etc... The carburetors for most of the Chinese quads are usually less than $25, and if you end up buying a float needle, a float bowl gasket, and a pilot jet, all parts that often must be replaced, you will have to spend at least $25 on just those 3 items and now you've got an old carburetor with 3 new parts in it. I've been doing this work for about 35 years and can clean and repair these carbs in my sleep but I'm finding that after I buy the cans of carb cleaner, buy any parts that are needed, and spend the time doing the work that for $25 and 15 minutes ordering a carburetor that's brand new and take that option. Good luck.

Shawn Barrett that’s not true bayous are really good machines and worth fixing

😃

check ignition?

Check your wires