Most reliable and easy to maintain Audi's. I have an Audi 80 B3 2.0E 1989, with over 250 000km on the odometer, multiple overheating accidents due to crappy thermostats, but the engine doesn't give up. The Audi 90 is the upmarket version but aside from tax increase they're about the same in terms of maintenance costs. You got yourself a classic, mate.
Just sold my 90 20v quattro sport 😢 Worst decision ever, it was epic to drive. Now own a S3 but miss these old 90's nothing drives like them and what a soundtrack from the 7A straight 5!!
Hi. No i have bosch injectors but they are standard. They run fine, long as they are in good condition and the seals are all new you should be fine. The main reason people upgrade to 034 ones are down to reliability not performance. Either one you decide to use they are all good for decent power long as you select the best type for what your aiming for.😉
Hello, I have an Audi Coupé Quattro 20v with the same engine, the 7A and it's an awesome car/engine, I wanna keep it but I have a really really hard time finding OEM parts for it, does someone knows a site or sites that sells OEM parts ? And also im a bit worried about the engine coolant temperature, normally its at 90° but in the city it reaches 100° until the fan starts kicking in, should i add a fan to the small radiator, or its fine? All help will be much appreciated :)
Hello. I have the same issue with parts but its unfortunatly the way it is with owning such a rare old audi. The 7a is probably audi's rarest engine these days as not many are left at all so demand for parts is very low. You can still get all service parts on ebay but things like mechanical parts are hard to find. If you are in the UK there are a few companys that specialise in old audi's so worth giving them a shot. "Allaudi" "Audi4u" "AM Cars" are three good ones. As for the heat issue, it dosent sound like its running too hot to me but its definatly worth replacing the thermostat and checking condition of your radiators then flushing and replacing all coolant. The key is to be 100% you purge all the air out before fully closing the system back up as the 20v is a bit of a pain for air locks. Hope that helps.:-)
The cams are re-profiled so they are basically as good as if they were replaced with aftermarket but at the time this build was done there was not any aftermarket cams available that i knew of. I think they are available now from 034 Motorsport in America but thats the only place i know of😊
Hello. I think i say in the video most of the things needed to get simular power. But basically you need a full engine build so you will need forged rods and pistons, ported head, uprated valve springs and valves plus cams and a whoal load more but it is definatly possible and the engine will last if you look after it. Im coming up to 13 years of owning this car and my engine rebuild with all mods is now almost on 80k! Yes this is still N/A😉
i know this vid is really really old but i found one of these in pretty good condition the guy only wants 2k for it but the exhuast is worn through and i cant find exhuast parts for this car any where do you know of something?
Any old Audi with the 20v 7a engine is worth trying to save, they are a very underated car even standard and are only going up in value. I would say 2k is very cheap, it must need a fair bit doing but parts are out there just very hard to find some of them. There are lots of groups out there that will help and some good companys too. Just remember that because theses cars/engines are so rare the prices for any parts are never cheap.
Hi ! What an awesome setup you did, im happy to found a really instructive video. I already look on 034Motorsport but I didnt see the maf kit, could you help me ? :)
Thanks. So are you only after the big maf set up? If you are then its pretty simple, you go onto 034 motorsport site and look for either 7a big maf or Rip chip i think. Basically you will need to chip the ecu along with the bigger maf or your engine wont run as the standard ecu will totally freak out if you try putting that much air flow through with no other mods. The big maf kit should come with a new black silicone intake pipe as the old one will now be way too small. Be sure to check what type of maf sensor you have 1st as there are two types but this is explained on the website. I would definatly recomend a free flowing exhaust as if you are increasing intake you should also do exhaust. Other mods are up to you. Hope that helps.
@@crazyeyes744 Thanks a lot for your fast answer ! That helps me a lot, but I am before the big maf setup. I dont found this kit on internet :/ My intake is stock. Did you homemade it ? And for the exhaust, its already on full inox pipe :))
@@victormasson5870 No problem. You dont need to modify your intake manifold at all, you still use the standard throttle body on the engine. You should just need the big maf kit along with the bigger silicone intake pipe and ecu chip. Thats it job done. If your exhaust is standard then as i said you will benefit much more by tuning your exhaust. If your engine is running the cast iron exhaust manifold then i also recomend upgrading to the tubular one.
@@crazyeyes744 Ooh ok so the maf kit is just a larger silicone intake and the ecu chip ? Yep my exhaust manifold is already the tubular one, and a full inox exhaust pipe !
@@victormasson5870 kind of yeah but the main big change in the big maf kit is the actual maf sensor housing, this is the metal part that the maf sensor ataches too. Basically the standard 7a 20v maf is very restrictive because the air flow hole is small so the big maf is a new custom machined aluminium maf housing that you fit your origional maf sensor into. The kit comes with the bigger silicone pipe and the ecu chip. I think you can also buy each bit seperate too.
THEWIDOWSON. I seem to remember it being around 90mm, as its oval you obviously need it to be big enough to stretch to an oval shape. also you will need to manually cut the holes in it for the breather and idle control valve. hope that helps.
AgroTechnik. Hello, it was a pain stakeing process mate, i have a freind who owns a metal finnishing company so i used the machine pollishers there mostly and finnished buffing it up with a polishing cotton wheel and autosol metal polish. The best thing for you to do is to source a 2nd inlet manifold and cam cover aswell if your doing that too and send them to be polished, that way you can drive the car until they are done and do the swap when you have the polished ones back. Dont chrome them though as its more expensive and wont last, also the inlet on the 20v 7a dosent chrome very well anyway. Hope that helps.😉
AgroTechnik. No problem. if you want any advice let me know and i will help where i can. if you do decide to replace the inlet then give me a shout as i have two spare inlet manifold. Good luck.
AgroTechnik. Yeah all the spares i have are for the 20v 7a engine. There are two types of inlet set up though on the 20v and it depends where your idle control valve is. if its the same as mine then i do have two spare inlet manifolds but if its different then you will need the later type inlet. If yours is in good order then it might be easyer to just remove yours for polishing especially if its off the road anyway.😊
that sticker is or i should say was the BHP the car made on the dyno after the build was complete around 8yrs ago. last dyno i did was a year or so ago and made 258bhp so lost a few but still strong. These engines are very tuneable but you gotta do a shit load of internals along with complete engine re wire on ecu side of things as the standard ecu is way too old to map or anything so you need to go aftermarket and get mapped on s dyno to run with whatever mods you have done. cheers.
Thanks for reply and any topic, where is your project?It sounds good, i know that old ECU have a problems with a good tune and of course an emissions and old systems...
The ECU i have is the standard one but it has been proffesionally chipped by a company called Revo. The chip i bought was from a company called 034 motorsport and Revo fitted it to the ECU for me. Its a good set up as it allows for other modifications to be taken in to account. I think from memory that the maximum BHP you can get from a standard 7a engine without internal upgrades or ECU upgrades is around 200-210bhp with basic mods so still pretty good.
Can u share some tips what to start with? I dont want to put a lot of money in it, cuz i will propably go with 20vt engine, but before swap i want to get this one to at least 200hp. What to do/start with? Which is the cheapest upgrade or smth?
hello, right well if your going 20vt then you will not want to modify the current engine too much as its probs not worth it for you. I only went as far as i have with mine because i specifically wanted to be different as most people do the 20vt swap but you need to spend a hell of a lot to get decent power gains. however, if you go to a website called 034 motorsport you can get a huge amount of upgrades for the 7a engine and will easily be able to reach the 200bhp goal you have. hope that helps you. cheers.
@@MMDN2 No sorry i forgot to mention that, you need centre spacers but if you are buying new then they will come with them but there may well be a version of these wheels that dont need spacers now im not sure.
Yeah, its very costly and you have to build the entire engine, basically the only standard parts left are auxiliary like power steering pump/ alternator and stuff. I allways wanted to be different as its so easy to just bolt on a turbo kit or fit the S2 engine so i really wanted to be different so i built it as far as i could staying with N/A. The current power is 248. Few years back i reduced power slightly as i was burning through plugs at a shocking rate and it wasnt too good on the drivetrain but now with 250ish bhp it runs very well and reliable on stage one clutch with no issues😁
