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Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment! I'm hoping to replace this video in the future with a better one. I have better cameras now with battery packs, so that I can record for longer without interruptions.
I had to look-up didactic... sorry, thank you (but I'm waiting for a chance to make a better video). Labor guide lists 5.2 hrs for timing belt. 6 hours with water pump... time needs to be added if and seals (camshaft / crankshaft) need to be replaced. Valve covers & chain tensioner gaskets do not need to be touched... but will add time if they are leaking & need to be replaced. It all depends on how many extra things need to be fixed "while you are in there".
Awesome video, as a hobby mech I've taken on changing a 1,8 liter JN's and an A4Q ABC's timing belt. The ABC took a while counting belt teeth... As a new owner of an A6Q with an APS 2.4 I look forward to this op, but think I'll take the whole front part off :-) Curious about the gloves, they look snug and nice, almost like sprayed on - what brand are they?
Thanks for your video!!! I am about to start an A4 2006 Quattro Cabriolet 3.0L head gasket change. I can't find any guides so far, do you have video for that?
+Ben Nickles The CD (Bentley) has the same info that I have... I have Erwin PDF files. The CD / software makes it easier to find / navigate the (pdf) files.
on my 5th TB including OE factory supplied unit. I know too many for only having approx. 200K did a couple "extra" times due to lack of memory. and last was due to a bad engine oil leak and thought better safe than sorry (WP stayed in). I would stick around the 70K mark. My brother just had a failure (on a 2.0T) at just over 105K and was "told" belt was changed before he bought car. Dealer (independent-not AUDI) is to split costs to repair all the valves and one piston as well, so $3500 repair
Hey so I did a timing belt on my 2.8, using the crank lock bolt and cam lock bar. After I replaced it, I turn it to check for timing. The marks go back and the bar fits back in, but I get a little sound from the top end while turning it sometimes. It doesn't sound like a valve hitting anything but sounds like a chain getting tensioned. Does the cam chains make noises while you turn the engine by hand? Too scared to turn the engine on.
Yes, depending on the age of the engine / mileage... chain tensioners can rise & fall as you turn the engine / camshafts. If both locking tools fit as they should, things should be ok. We're the cam gears "free to spin" while you adjusted timing belt tension (and tightened after)?
@@EXOVCDS Yeah I had them pulled to get the timing belt on. Once the belt fit on every pulley, I had the bar on before putting in the tensioner, getting tension on the belt, and torquing down the cam bolts. It's been a week long project, so most of the oil is probably in the pan too which would probably add to the noise.
HI There good videos, I have a 02 Passat vw a6 motor v6 32 valve, I forgot to put in service mode while doing all belts,pump, tensioners,pulleys,themosat which is putting the crank on timing mark right? I need to time the motor and put cams where the bigger holes on cam face toward each other,just wondering if there is possible the cam have 2 revolutions on them or is it one, so then it would not matter and just have the large holes on cam face each other? whats the best way, postion or move the crank to keep any pistons from top dead center? is it put the crank to the timing mark, then turn it 30 degrees left or is that top dead center? or whats the best way to move crank in a position so I can gentle move the cams to point toward each other? and have crank on timing mark, I took the spark plugs out so I can possible figure it out but rather ask you the Professional. a good scenario would be you just got this car in and has a broken timing belt, any info would be great to put cams and crack on timing marks as they are not , Thanks Terry phoenix AZ
When the V6 is at TDC, #3 cylinder is on compression / TDC. Yes, you would want the crankshaft to be slightly off of TDC so that all pistons are below TDC... then turn the camshafts. You only need to turn the camshafts until the big holes are facing the inside. You do not have to turn them two turns. On a 4 cyl, two pistons are at TDC every 1/2 turn of the crank... so 45 degrees off of TDC places all pistons mid-stroke. On a 6 cylinder, every 60 degrees a cylinder is at TDC... so turning 30 degrees away from TDC should keep all pistons away from the valves... if I did my math correctly.
@@EXOVCDS that's nice to hear cause i bought a 2001 with 190000 kilometers few days ago. Paid it 2500 euros. Interior seem well maintained. The first belt i can see seems good but didnt open to see the timing belt.My mechanic did the regular service, oil and filters..
Ahhh good times. I remember changing my thermostat 5 years ago. I never had and I will never have a car that needs like 5h to change it! Audi engineers are a pain in the ass! 😅
Just following service manual information.... yes, if I remove the whole front end including radiator & support, I'll have more room. Sometimes I remove it, when I need to replace crank seals or need room for other things. For just a timing belt & water pump service, moving the radiator into "service position" is all that is needed.
I bought a 97 A4, 2.8L. Has a few issues, mainly the heater core and radiator. I got the old radiator out and then started hunting for the damn thermostat. Finally found it somewhere online that it's behind the passenger side cam belt. The belt is somewhat loose and wouldn't hurt to be changed, however I'm scared I'm gonna mess up timing while doing it. How hard is it to loose the position if I get one of those camshaft locks? I also read that I should replace idlers, water pump, and cam and crank seals. However, these sound like a pain in the a** to change, and the water pump would take a week to get here (from rock auto, local shops want way to much for Audi parts). So I'm gonna pass doing the water pump and save it for another time. What's your thoughts on this ? Thanks for the help! Should also add, I got the car for relatively cheap (has almost 180,000 mi) so I'm really avoiding taking it anywhere I don't need to in order to save money. I'm trying everything myself, and so far so good, and also trying not to put a crazy amount of money into it, so any help is very much appreciated.
If you have any doubts about your mechanical skills, don't attempt the job. Aside from the cam lock tool... the crank lock tool is also suggested / good to have. Some guys can remove the thermostat by sliding the timing belt away from the engine on the camshaft sprocket (not actually removing the belt) to gain clearance. I have never done it that way, but that could be an option. Replacing the water pump and all the tensioners / rollers, is suggested because of the amount of work that is involved to get at the thermostat. If the pump were to leak 2 years later... you would have to take everything apart again. Same if one of the rollers were to get noisy... that's why it is suggested to replace all the components / do as much as you can "while you are in there". But when it comes down to it... it all depends on what you want to do.
Thomas EXOVCDS Thanks for the reply! I'm gonna try to see if I can get away with just sliding the belt forward a bit like you mentioned. If it doesn't work, I'm just gonna change the whole belt, and leave everything else. Will come back and let you know how it goes tomorrow.
There are no timing marks on the cam gears. The crankshaft needs to be locked into position with a locking pin and the camshafts need to be locked into position with special C clamps. Once everything is locked, all the camshaft gears need to be loosened, so that they can spin freely. Once free, the belt can be removed and replaced. A special tool is needed to "turn" the camshaft phaser to the correct stop position... once everything is positioned correctly, the belt tension can be adjusted and the camshaft gears can then be tightened (last step). If you need service manual information... send me a message (fkh161 link in the description, click on Tool Request to send me a message).
Thomas EXOVCDS thank you for replying,my friend didn’t explain me what happened to the car before he started replacing the timing belt,the tensioner went bad so there is bent valves,I thought the camshaft phaser had to do something with the timing.
so I have a quick Q for you if you can answer that would be great I have a 1996 2.8 Quattro and its idles a little rough its moves about 75-100 rpms don't know if its a sensor or a pcv valve problem if you have any thoughts that would be great. It runs and drives great other wise
Yes, could be pcv or Vacuum leak issue. Dirty throttle body? Although, I think the 96 has an idle stabilizer... so it could be an issue there. If it has an EGR, could be that it's not sealing fully. Quite a few variables... would need to attach a scan tool and see what pops out.
can anyone help ? My 2001 A6 AWD . I have popped the hood/bonnet but the rubber tag that poke thru the logo is not there to release the hood fully. I had some work done on it last week and the mechanic has messed up.....They are not in until monday and I need to change dead battery so I can drive today...HELP PLEASE ..Thanks .
+Dutch Van Helsing If it pops-up... you should be able to use a long pick to pick-at / pull at the remaining plastic pull tab. I do not have any experience / have not had to do it on the same car as yours, but have had to do similar on VW Jetta's & Golf's. If I find any pictures of the linkage in a service manual, I will post the link here, so that you can see what to look for.
What are your thoughts on doing this without the tool 3391? Today my A6 2.4 greeted me with a nice coolant leak thats coming from somewhere near the alternator. Im definetly not spending 50-100€ for a tool im going to use once.
You can probably rent the tool from someone... I would not do it without the tool. The camshaft gears need to be free spinning while the cams are locked, then the belt can be tensioned. Using paint marks might work, but it's not as accurate. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-_voLyFQv5kY.html Watch until the end.
@@EXOVCDS did the research and indeed the tool is indispensable to correctly tension the belt. I found where to get one for a reasonably good price, my question now would be do you recommend doing this job with the lock carrier in the position you have it or to remove it completely? On a C5 V6 does that involve opening the AC refrigerant circuit? I'd rather spend the extra time to have better access and not strip or break a bolt.
On vehicles where I remove the lock carrier completely... I evacuate the AC. You might be able to leave the AC charged, if you can move / position the condenser out of the way.
my 2008 audi a4 4cyl isnt blowing cold air and the cooling fan will not kick on at all. At first i checked to see if the relay was bad and checked the fuses, my next move was to replace thermostat. Could this be the solution (thermostat)?
"Isn't blowing cold air"... as in, no cold air from a/c? Or, the heater only blows warm air even when set to cold? If the radiator fans are not working, the engine is running hot / overheating? Yes, a thermostat can solve an overheating issue... if the thermostat is the reason for the overheating.
Great video Thomas. I have a genuine 2000 A4 Facelift, (2.4 V6, 6 speed auto, etc. Right hand drive version). I have a couple of things to do. 1st is to replace the serpentine belt tensioner and the oil temp sensor. 2nd is to replace the LHS CV joint and the RHS CV boot. Would I need to go through the process of removing the bumper and using the locking carrier to do part 1? any thoughts appreciated. Alan
It might be too tight of a space to get at and remove the tensioner... it's worth trying before pulling the front end. The service manual suggests to move the front end forward for belt removal... so I would guess that is suggests the same for the actual tensioner.
OK. I did read somewhere you could remove the aircon fan (electric fan) to give a little extra room. (1 screw and twist). Do have a preferred brand of service manual? I haven't got one for this car.
Bentleypublishers.com or www.erwin.audiusa.com The erwin site is only $35 for 24 hr website access... you can6 download as much as you want the pdf files are not time locked, so you can keep them for as long as you want.
Ran out of battery before you finished there hey? That's what we call a half ass job. But i'm glad you let us know before you posted this. Up until then it was great
Half ass because I don't have a production team & I record while I work. A service manual is all someone needs... not my fault when people dive-in unprepared (just like me with a half ass battery... not thinking ahead). Thanks for watching... up-until then.
Best thing to do is phone shops in your area... hourly shop rates will vary from state to state, city to city. The labor rate (time to do the job) should be similar no matter where you go (labor book suggests labor times).
Great video Thomas. I'm considering buying a 2002 A4 1.8T Quatro. Price is $2500 but it clearly says it needs timing job done. Would you recommend it? I would most likely do the work myself. It has 101K miles.
That's cheap! I think I have a 1.8t timing belt video for one of those... the 2.0t is similar (have a video of that for sure). If the body is in good shape, sounds like a great catch. Have a prepurchase inspection done by an Audi specialty shop... they might catch things you don't see.
Harold Ruiz if it's not running due to a broken belt, it most likely has bent valves and will need the cylinder head to be removed for overhauling. If done by a shop that could run $2000 depending on what all is needed. Might still be cheaper than an already running vehicle. You might be able to find a mobile mechanic in the yellow pages to come out and have a look.
Great. Thanks. I'm trying to set up a meet and will then contact a mechanic. Thanks a lot. I hope it doesn't. Im looking for a great vehicle for a good price with minimal repairs. Replacing a timing belt, although time consuming for that price, I think is well worth it. But if its more... Idk... Lol. I'll keep you updated. Thanks again.
***** i bought the car, the motor is bad. i bought a new motor, but its broken where you close the filter for the oil. i cant find a oil pen for that motor. should the V W passar fit?
Desdecuba Boy VW parts catalog shows the same image as this audi image: fkh161.ca/Audi/Pan.jpg The pans could be the same. VW part number: 078103604AA (lower part) 078103603AM (upper part that the filter mounts against). Audi part numbers: 06C103604C (lower part) 06c103601D (upper part where the oil filter attaches) Do some web searching for those numbers and compare pictures.
Yes / no... yes, that's the best way. No, you can release tension on the belt and slide it away from the engine on the camshaft sprocket (still have to remove timing belt covers)... to create enough room for thermostat removal. removing the belt is the best way to go, to make sure it does not get contaminated by coolant and you have more room to work in.
Yes / no... yes, that's the best way. No, you can release tension on the belt and slide it away from the engine on the camshaft sprocket (still have to remove timing belt covers)... to create enough room for thermostat removal. removing the belt is the best way to go, to make sure it does not get contaminated by coolant and you have more room to work in.
+Thomas EXOVCDS I have taken my whole front end off to replace the alternator and I forgot that my thermostat was stuck open which isn't a big deal cause it doesn't over heat that way but I want to replace but I'm not sure if I should mess with it, if I remove the timing belt will it mess the timing up or should I be fine because I see where that housing is for the thermostat and I'm so close to saying just forget it lol
+Michael Duncan If you trust your abilities, have a service manual & the needed tools, I say go for it. I have, however, read of people making little mistakes that ended up bending valves. :(
Help! Audi A4 v6, After starting the car, It takes 40 seconds sometimes even 2 minutes before it stalls. I replaced Fuel filter, Air filter, Spark plug, Coolant temperature sender.Spark plug wired is good.
+Miracia Vladimir What year? How's fuel pressure & delivery rate? Any fault codes? Fuel trim values? Can you keep it running by playing with the gas pedal?
97 Audi A4 2.8 I have not checked fuel pressure because I am not pretty sure how to check that.Sometime I try to play with the gas pedal unfortunately it stall. hit the gas pedal seems to make it choke.The codes I had were P0170, P0171,P0173,P0174. but Oxygen Sensor replaced (Bank 1 And Bank 2) Air Filter,Fuel filter
+Miracia Vladimir You probably have a bad fuel pump. A quick way to check the health of the pump... is to look at the current the pump is drawing, using a scope: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-LKh5X0xpSNg.html An even wave pattern is a good / healthy pump. If the wave lines are jagged or drop down off of the screen, then the pump is bad.
How come you just didn't take the full front end off and then start taking off everything in the engine bay. I other people do it that way. looks easier to me
The nose should have been removed completely for easier access to all the components related to a timing belt job. You've done pretty much all the work to pull the nose off, the car is designed for that. Good video though!
Ellen Schippers This video is not my greatest, as it is lacking some stuff... if you get stuck / have questions... just post another comment and I'll reply.
Almo If the body is in great shape, $3200 spread over till the next service (our recommendation 6yrs/120k km) pays for itself. The car might not be worth $3200, but if it runs great for another 10+ years... that's not bad for a $3200 car.
+Thomas EXOVCDS That is insane. I just bought a 1999 audi a6 2.8l. I Pray to God I don't have to do this job anytime soon. Nevertheless sweet informative video.
Albert Rothschild try doing it on a new Chrysler 2.4, battery, tray, various brackets, vacuum pump all have to come out, and there's a hidden bolt you need a short swivel, 3 broken fingers, and a broken wrist to remove, don't get me started on getting that bolt back in.......P0128 engine coolant below regulating temperature.......
It was good and clear but the camera mounted on his head is like being on a boat in the oven during a storm, had to look away a couple of times so I didn't get sea sick.
"I record while I work"... video glasses is the best & only way that I can record what I do. 90% of people DON'T get motion sickness... so the fault is NOT with the camera moving. Thanks for watching.
OK huge difference here.... Others I have watched indicate that it is required to take off the radiator, and also the AC condenser, which also means draining and recharging the AC. But here @ 10:30 in your video, you just move the pieces forward for working room. And the AC system is not opened. I am considering a used Audi, and major maintenance like this can kill the bargain unless I can do the work myself. Your video gives me hope!
This is what is called "service position"... unless more service is involved (crankshaft seal etc), there's no need to move everything out of the way. I'm still waiting to record a newer version of this video. Thanks for watching!
Your videos are awesome! very helpful and you know what you're obviously doing...I've rebuilt a couple 1.8t's with 50k+ on them and still running top notch! The girlfriend has a 02 passat 2.8 right now and passenger (bank 1) cam chain tensioner failed...I put a new chain and tensioner in and I still have a misfire..I don't have the cam tool (in the mail as we speak) and eye balled it with a straight edge...driver side is fine but could I have messed up on the passenger side to cause the misfire? engine light is flashing and chugging bad...put new lifters in too cause had a bad knocks that just started...any help would be appreciated!!! can email me to mspevak@msn.com thank you thank you thank you!
+Mike Spevak Make sure that the intake & exhaust cams are aligned correctly (16 chain links between cams... counted on the top of the chain). If all 3 cylinders are misfiring on the one bank... recheck chain links & timing belt / cam / crank alignment when at TDC (#3 cyl is at TDC when crank is at TDC). If only 1 cylinder is misfiring... look for valve damage.
+Thomas EXOVCDS ya I did double check the links today...they're right but the weird thing is that the arrow and the notches won't line up on both cams..I have pics but don't think I can post them on here..so I split the difference... had the misfire still, so I lined up the intake side arrow and cam notch..still a misfire and seems worse... I used a straight edge the first time to line up the cams the best I could...tomorrow, I'm going to put it back the way it was cause it seemed to be better...I don't think I could have been that far off cause I apparently got the driver side right cause no codes..
Mike Spevak Cam marks & arrows on the bearing caps will not line-up 100%...slightly off is ok. The cam sprocket has to be loose when adjusting belt tension... just mentioning this for others who are also reading this.
+Thomas EXOVCDS they'll appreciate it..I know I would!! every bit helps when you're researching! that's good to know about the marks not lining up, I thought it might have been a problem that's out of my hands..
+Thomas EXOVCDS quick question, would the failed cam tensioner throw the cam off enough to cause a valve to hit? I don't think it would but I spent 7 hours today trying to trouble shoot my misfire...haven't done a compression check yet but when I turn the engine by hand, everything sounds normal..
It doesn't matter what you buy... eventually there will be costly repair bills. You are looking at this video as "all that for a thermostat?"... I look at it as "no more worry about timing belt, water pump, tensioner, rollers, thermostat etc for 7 years". Divide the cost by the time of suggested service interval and you'll see how cheap it actually is... when you consider engine failure expenses after a belt breaks or the thermostat sticks closed (and the owner ignores the flashing red light).
i have a pontiac grand prix with 251,000 miles which i got with 56,000 miles and it's probably been the best car I have owned; the water pump cost 30 dollars and took 30 minutes to change, now i got a new impala and so far so good!
