hi dave done loads of these. i just unbolt the splined bolts on the back about 1/3 of the way out and use a air hammer on the head of the bolts moving from side to side. Drices the hub out and works every time and as you get new bolts it doesnt matter if you bruise the the heads. Sorted
Thank you - this is a really informative video filled with detailed explanation at every stage. Based on your instructions I successfully changed the bearing on my 2009 Audi A4 - total time about 4 hours (don't laugh, I'm a software developer not a mechanic :-) ). I thought I'd share my experiences: - I removed the whole steering knuckle by detaching the upper control arms, the lower control arms and the steering tie rod end. I could then work with the whole assembly off the car. You need a balljoint splitter tool for this. - Reason - I couldn't get on board with the idea of using an air chisel on the hub mating surfaces (sorry!!) - looked like a recipe for damage. As you mentioned the possibility of the holes going oval, I guess as a result of this approach, I didn't fancy it. - With the assembly off the car it was fairly easy to drift out the hub and bearing from the knuckle using a large socket as a drift and by supporting the knuckle on two logs, and whacking the socket with a club hammer. No press required. - The outer race did indeed get stuck in the hub. I chose to use a Dremel tool fitted with a standard cut-off disc which cut through the outer race with suprising ease leaving the hub undamaged. - I froze the hub in the freezer, and cooked the new bearing at 100C in the oven and pressing it home was very easy in a normal bench vice again using a large socket as the drift. I didn't need a press at all. Thank you again
2:13 was possibly the most satisfying thing I've seen. As someone who has a battery-powered impact wrench, this was epic! Made light work of the thing!
Excellent tutorial. I like the use of the bake disc on the hydraulic press. I did however decide to remove the bearing housing and used a press to remove the bearing with hub attached.
For anyone wanting to do this without a hydraulic press: I managed to drive the hub out by using the mounting bolts on the "burn". Put some thick plate between the burn and hub flanges, then drove 2 of the mounting bolts (the triple square ones) into it, being careful to turn them equal amounts to keep it square. Came out easy! For me, only one of the 2 hubs I did held onto the inner race. I cut a slot in it with a dremel then smacked it with a chisel and it broke, much easier than I was expecting. Fitting the new one between the jaws of a vice with some plate over the face of the bearing was easy. Overall, far less force required than I was expecting. All went very smoothly. No issues with the ABS sensor. Thanks for the video, Dave. Some useful tips.
Very helpful, Dave! Thank you for taking the time to create. The stretch bolts explanation was insightful. I've seen another vid where all the bolts were reused. Not a good idea I now understand.
Thanks very much for this video. I have been looking for the hub and bearing assembly for my A7 but have only found the bearing. Your tips are great in guiding me to do it myself. Thanks again, well made video with real and actual tips and methods. Perfect.
What a bloody great video. Doing this same job tomorrow for a friend. Luckily I have a press, just got to find the right socket to press the new bearing in.
So weird hearing your own accent! Give it a Blatter 👍 Top video fella. Have one of these to do at the weekend and as they say "forewarned is forearmed".
3:00 I got as far as the m12 bolts but I just couldn't get any of them to budge! I'm worried I'll shear the bolt heads at this stage. I'm going to try again with a blow torch next time! Love the a4 videos. Nice to hear a local accent 😉 I f you want to make a video on removing stubborn bolts on an audi a4 then hit me up and I'll drive to your garage lol
Have done a few of these in the last 12 months , first one got the bearing from main agents , came with flange on , second one from main agents , no flange , stepped bearings different sizes inner and outer , bolts made of cheese holding bearing on , don't mind doing them but you sure feel like your gonna snap the centre hub boot when final tightening , scarey, great video Dave as usual , cheers
@@davesterl that's the one , when the second one came I said I had one last month from them , TPS , and it had flange on, box was open , dirty paw prints on it , what we love in our job they said there was stock in Manchester branch 12 miles away , I drove there and exactly the same , no flange now , was a 2017 Q7 , but the guy didn't want to take it in for warranty repair , rather pay he said even paid me to go for the one from Manchester branch 🇬🇧🇬🇧👍
When it comes with the flange does that mean the same as when people mention “pre-assembled”? So you don’t have to use a press for the bearings? I need to do the job on my a7 and noticed on eurocarparts they have one that comes with the flange
Those torque values in the comments would help! Regardless, I'm totally happy so thanks for the video! Couldn't get my press to work, so I had to take it into a shop. I'm seriously considering a hydraulic puller since this isn't the first time I could've used it against the upright or bearing support arm.
Great video Dave, and spot on with all the details. The only part in question is with regards to torque value/method on the final 19mm hex center bolt. I know it’s stated in the manual to torque to 200Nm plus 180 deg, however it still doesn’t make sense. I suspect it was an error in translation from German to English, as I’ve read elsewhere where you toque it to 200Nm, back it off 180 deg, then retorque to 50Nm plus 60 deg. This to me seems much more logical. If you over torque it, you could overload the bearing making it difficult to rotate and ultimately leading to early failure.
50nm plus 60 degree is not for this type of bearing, not even close for the bearing in the video. The centres are touching together so you are not overloading the races therefore it makes perfect sense
Great work Dave, my GTI front axels are the same, I struggled with the 180 degrees as well, ended up using the jack handle on a half inch breaker, had about 8 foot of leverage and still couldn't get the 180 done...lol
Great video Dave, crazy they use triple square like that, here they’d be rusted in permanent I’m suprised not there. You’re a better man than me 5lb Hammer I use to slug that huh out of the socket lol. Thanks for sharing it was interesting to see.
My 2015 Audi A7 with 111k miles is in need of this replacement because my mechanic advised..I drive the car at highway about after 60mph I notice the feeling in the way the car grinding.. I expect to just change both-fronts..hopefully it’s $500-$600 for the job.
Did the bearing on the other halves a3 (8v7) and i got to about the same degree of turn as you did so im glad im not the only one, have thought about using my impact gun next time to get the full 180 but don't see anyone doing that so assuming its not recommended?
Right Dave where are you based because my Audi A6 needs 2 front wheel bearings and all of the control arms replaced and after watching your professionalism I would be willing to travel to you for you to do this work for me .
@@davesterl sorry if I came across rude . It’s hard to find a mechanic these days who does the job properly and after watching your attention to detail I’m really impressed with the way you do things . If you would be willing to work on my car I would be willing to travel to have you complete the repairs that need to be done. And obviously pay you for the pleasure and I would also be willing to get my hands dirty alongside you. I would try to tackle it myself if I had the tools but I’m to scared of that pinch bolt and i can’t justify buying a press for the sake of 2 wheel bearings.
@@rainbowlightwarrior8395 you want to help as well? No decent, self-respecting garage will entertain that. Definitely not and you're still being rude btw. You need to work on your phrasing
Thanks bro. Finally a thorough review unlike the other morons that cut the important part or show you the older cars. I am using new hubs and bearings though.
Was your Bering carrier arm chewed up mine was and they said I need a new one but it don’t look that bad the cv axel just rubbed it a little because of the wheel Bering
What size 'hub splitter' is required. Most I can find online say either 30-50mm or 50-75mm (I'm assuming that is the max outer bearing race diameter) Would you know if 75 mm is large enough? Thanks for the video. I did mine a while ago and cut/chiseled the race off but next time I would prefer using your method
funny you put this vid up ive been looking for a new toque wench over the past few days . still cant decide wot one to get . teng are looking good at the min
Yep Dave's right, 12 months ago Audi sold them with flange complete , no more , just a bearing , you have to swap your old flange over or buy a new flange and press it in to the new bearing
I've ordered the pre assembled bearing/hub for my 2015 A6 Quattro. Same one fits all 4 corners. Very hard to find. It's all bearing only, amazon.de and Febest.eu have some for the A6, Ridex have an unassembled kit. I don't have a press, so complete hub will do the job quicker. I can play with the old, if I manage to split it and crack the inner bearing casing off without a press as described in earlier post, I'll have a spare hub for possible future use.
