No lie, the hundreds of thousands of dollars that I saved from y’all videos literally helped me out of homelessness sleeping in my 15 A3 premium. My waterpump and pipes blew and cracked so I didn’t have heat for months and I used your videos to change both and my rotors before my wheel got torn. I really appreciate these videos so damn much. Keep up the great work.
I’ve done scores of brake jobs on many cars, mostly VW. But this is my first time on Audi, so I was looking for guidance. After about 90 minutes and 10-12 other videos, I found the one I needed to see: THIS ONE!
Thank you! The very car I drive, and the very procedure I was contemplating. This encourages me to go ahead, with a few tool acquisitions as well as an FCP kit.
Just did this repair. The piston would not fully retract from a pry bar alone and I was able to resolve this issue by using a C clamp+a disc from a caliper tool kit that fit. Just a tip for those who may be struggling at the same part 👍🏻 the logo plate on the front makes it impossible to use a caliper tool normally
Thanks guys for uploading these kid of videos. You save a lot of money to you customers. It would be great if you can share WHEN to replace the rotors. Normally you know when you have reached the minimum rotor THICKNESS which is technical info not available to the common people. In this particular case, what is the minimum rotor thickness say for the A3 8V lineup? I have a 2018 A3 Sportback 2TFSI and I dont find this info in the web.
Love the video, you're an extraordinary mechanic. This 2018 A3 my 1st Audi, and at 60K miles I just decided I'd dive right in, being the senior citizen I am, proud owner of a 69 Boss 302 all original equipment as a 1st car in 1973. You're extraordinary, thought the sensor was the most time consuming portion of the project. I really wanted to cut it off and hack it so as not to have to deal with it but what's time when you have little left? The cable lead was different on my A3 Premium and I accidentally got it off, but then realized my OEM brakes didn't come with a new sensor and cable. I cannot imagine why we'd put in new brakes and not a new sensor given then small cost. But that thing is a pain in the ass. Still tbe Audi is a dream car for me.
Thx 4 tha vid. It helped but did not fully resolve my issue. I got the bulb out, but I'm trying to get it back in and can't get it to secure back in the slop with the clamps. I will never buy another Audi again. I don't care if I strike it rich and can afford to pay the dealership for repairs. Neva again. To change a bulb should be a 5 min job. Let say I'm traveling. A bulb blow. I should not have to take my tire off, take off my wheel wale, and need all these extra tools just for a bulb. I spent $120 for a bulb that is now slitly damaged because of the sorry complex design. Now it may blow sooner than later cause the blue sleeve is cracked. I hate this, Audi! I wish something could be done about this because a customer should not have to go through such hardship. My car is sitting on a jack stand because I have spent a whole day trying to change a bulb, only to be unsuccessful because of this stupid, poorly designed car. Sorry for venting on your page. I know you don't have anything to do with the situation 😒
Have no idea why he didnt used a normal 17 wrench instead of those ugly pliers. Also the sliding bolts ( the ones holding the caliper on the carrier ) should be taken out, cleaned and greased, and remounted. They are responsible for the good adjustment/sliding in time, as pads wear out you can use also Ate Plastilube, hes using in video. Too much anti-seize used, Zimmerman ( the rotor manufacterer ) expressly says to not grease/antiseize the hub where is attached the wheel afterwards. Check the little manual that comes with stuff.
should my break caliper be a little lose when reinstalling? im assuming it will decompress but wanted to see if i would magically get a response while i do my other wheel
Generally speaking no, but if you vent it slightly it may help with less resistance in the piston. Most of that is in the fluid however, not the air at the top of the reservoir.
Old video, but can anyone enlighten me on the placement of the jack points/stands on the 2019 Audi A3? I see that there are four arrows directing me to pinch welds to jack up the car, but I can't see any other place to put the actual jack stands, especially in the front which is just one big piece of plastic. I've watched tons of videos and there always seems to be a different setup than mine. It's incredibly frustrating and would appreciate some expert guidance!
