For a Audi A3 8V TDI S-Line(did the rears today, Brembo discs(rotors) and pads) you will need a stubby 7mm socket for the top and bottom of the caliper bolts(because the suspension parts behind are to close for a normal one(so the one i bought was useless!. Good job i also brought a 7mm allen key!). You have to take off the 2 carrier bolts! as the disc will not just slide out!(like they can on some S3's). I used the M14 spline tool on a 10" breaker bar with a swivel head going in from the top right for both the bolts. Going in from the top right there is loads of room with the aid of the swivel head to get the angles(saying that i also went in from the top right when using my torque wrench to tighten them back up"). With a steady hard push down they undone easy IMO(i did have my Weetabix that morning!!). With everything going really well, i even painted the calipers after :). THX for the video it helped me alot before doing mine
Great explanation.. but I’d add that you should pull the slider pins out of the boots and clean and re grease them.. and good practice to line the caliper boot with silicon grease.. .. gonna buy my rear pads and rotors this week
FCP Euro.....Drilled Vented disks have a left and right part number as they are not the same on both sides...and in your vid you installed a right hand disk on left hand side of the car...
almost great work. no manufacturer orders to smear the hubs with grease under the disc. this creates micro wobbles of the rotor. It is not meant to be taken off every month. just clean it mechanically & chemically so one flat surface is facing another uniformly. if You still want to do it at least turn the rotor on the hub several times to evenly distribute the grease.
You make that look easy! I remember doing my 2016 A3 and I swore way more than any other brake jobs i have done lol not much space for the ratchet for the caliper carrier to remove it let alone break it free.....ended up padding the metal with a rag after smashing my fingers lol good times 🤣🤣🤣
Can this process be done in neutral to bypass the electronic handbrake? Just do 1 side at a time and use someone to push the pedal in when tightening the wheels back up?
So on my s3, I have electronic ebrake, I will be using obdeleven to open and close ebrake. Do i still need to use that manual tool to push piston back or no? Thanks
@@connaghtakairangi6935 no, its really tough and wont go anywhere. Thats how it was on my 18 fusion with the EPB. Did these on an A3 yesterday and also had a hard time with them open/in service mode as well (im rewatching the vid b/c i got a fault lol) but it works?
Note for anyone doing this at home. I did this on my 17 Audi S3 and I still had to use the brake winding tool to release the caliper. I first turned the caliper piston anticlockwise a few turns and then turned it clockwise. This fully seated the piston.
Did you use vagcom ? Or any scanner tools ? I don’t really want to spend the money on something I’m not going to use often? But if so I’ll do it if I have to just curious to know if you did that ?
@@iHadWaterForDinner i had the aliexpress copy scan tool for releasing the brake. Worked fine but still had to push the piston in also manually. Its in forums and apparently part of rostec instructions to push it in manually. No need to turn it any special direction. Old pad and screwdriver and it will go.
After actually doing this, you really don’t even need to take the triple square carrier bolts out. I did the job without needing to take them out after all
@@DutchxPRsorry just wanna clarify, you can change the rotors without removing the caliper carrier? I struggled for an hour trying to get those M14 bolts to budge but I have no space for torque lol. , so I gave up.
Question, with these rotors can you put Ate semi compound or it must be Ate ceramic pads? Looking for longevity, low noise and stopping power right of the start.
