i have to say mate, your camera angles in this video are absolutely top notch - everything is so clearly visible, even when it comes to the really awkward spots. honestly one of the clearest maintenance videos i've ever seen, even when compared to professionally funded ones. hats off to you for that, it's impressive work.
Great job Andy. I'm gonna have my tt mk1 haldex pre charge pump changed and I'm wondering if it can be done without having to drop the differential. If only you got a video on that!
Great video, plan on doing this on my mk1 4x4 octavia, had no idea how on earth id be able to tackle this but you made it look easy! Straight to the point and no faffing around the camera angles are on point! Cheers man :)
@@andycharger I've been thinking about it, I might make something with a strap ...if it works I'll let you know, I don't know when mine was last done so I need to get on it. Thanks for the video.
@@andycharger Managed to source an M10 x 1 adapter for the drain plug and a length of silicone tubing which will connect between that and the caulking gun. The fact that a little is lost is not a problem. I remember reading somewhere that the capacity of the Mk1 Haldex is 250ml, but the oil supplied is +10% at 275ml to allow for such spillages! Will see how it all goes - thanks again my friend. Really been a genuine help to me...
@@andycharger Did it! Got a M10 x 1 brass hose adapter and screwed into the drain hole, bit of 8mm tubing which I slid over the Haldex tube - worked a treat at any angle! Whole job came in at £22!! Saved a fortune - thanks again Andy!!
Thank you sir! It is a tricky job but one worth doing if you don’t know when it was last done. No history of it being done over the last few years before I owned it and looking at the volume of oil that came out, it needed doing! Please do let me know how you get on with yours and feel free to send me any questions you have! Thanks again!
Thanks for that nugget of info on the underfloor clips buddy! The issue i had with them was that the clip that they screw into had completely corroded away to nothing. So I had nothing to screw it into! Hopefully others do not have the same problem.
Just wondering..how critical is the volume that is replaced? Great job on quickly getting plug back..could you shorten the tube to reduce amount that doesn’t get ‘injected’ into the unit? I’m ocd when it comes to fluid volumes, would I be worrying unnecessarily about not all the oil going in?
Hi John. Yes you cuold shorten the tube length although I guess that would restrict the amount of "range" and "flexibility" you may have. I would say that the volume required itself is fairly small (it comes in a caulking gun tube) so you need to ensure as much goes in as possible. I hope that helps!
Good spot and yes I did. I redid the plug but forgot to film it so had to go with the original filming! All that despite me saying "Dont forget the washer!" lol
Hi Andy, just dropped onto the channel and really enjoying your straightforward well explained content. I have a pair of TT Mk1's which need haldex service. I would appreciate it if you could provide a bit more information on the oxygen tube you used especially the bit that connects to the haldex. Many thanks keep up the good work.
Hi Gary and thanks for your kind words! The O2 tube is classed as a nebuliser mask tube. I just took a look for you on EBay and there is one coming up with a description of this: “Oxygen Tube with Connectors For Resuscitators, 2.1m” for £4.11 plus postage. That is what you need. Simply cut a 2 foot length and the cut end goes over any caulking nozzle perfectly and snug. The “mask” end is the bit that fits under the haldex drain hole. Biggest tip I can give is get a new drain plug and washer from VW and make 100% sure the washer is on before putting it back. If not and you screw it in, it will do up and seal...this time! However the bottom of the drain plug is tapered and seems to strip the threads of the hole. So when you come to do a change and use a washer, the plug does not seem to hold well and spins! I now talk from experience and will cover is a future video under “the pitfalls of some jobs”. Thanks again for watching and don’t forget to like and subscribe for future content! 👍
couldn't you possibly add the oil throught the filter while it is removed and the drain plug is on? Asking since ill be needing to do this soon and figured itd be good to ask
Nice clear video 👍 you can also bend the nozzle of the cartridge 90deg and push the oil through with a stick, as the oil is very thin, but your tubing method is definitely cool. Were you able to salvage any spilt oil?
My concern with the “sealed” haldex unit was always pressure preventing the oil from going in but that was not the case at all surprisingly. Like you say the oil is so thin it pumps in easy! I lost minimal oil to be fair and there was such a small amount it never made it to the ice cream tub. However, I have another tube coming this week and will put a little in through the inspection hole. It might cover that in a short follow up video! Thanks for watching!
Tbh if you get the full tube in, some excess comes back out (of the inspection hole I think) and ends up on one of the rear lifting points. So the whole tube isn't necessary
Hi! Great video! I want to steal your idea for the tubing to pump the fluid into the haldex system. I’m wondering what size tubing you used for this? Cheers!
Hi Nate. Thanks for the comment. It is airline hose from an Os bottle/mask you would use in a hospital. I know that does not help but very similar to airline hoe you would use on an aquarium so I reckon that is similar if not the same size.
Give it a go! You can’t get any oil in through it! It almost has like a pressure to stop you adding anything in through. Believe me, it was the 1st thing I tried!
Hi Stuart. I had already tried that. It seems to be a "one way ticket" through there. You cannot get anything in when I tried. Feel free to give it a go though buddy. Thanks for the comment!
have to ask I bought an audi tt 2005 quattro and the carfax has literally every single service done.... its at 147k water pump timing belt finished at 100k clutch at 120k .... and oil changes every 4k mles from previous owner... however I never saw a haldex or "rear differential service" on his car fax safe to say my haldex unit could be damaged or should I be fine? I'm gonna change the oil cause I think its factory OEM filter and oil... since 0 miles...
@@andycharger yea seems like previous owner took good care of it im just not sure if most owners are aware that haldex unit needs to be serviced every 40k lol
Hey man, superb video explanation. Just wondering, could I get away with changing the filter on its own? I’ve just had the Haldex oil done by a local garage, but need to do the filter myself. Will I lose all the oil from the unit when I remove the filter, or is the filter held in a horizontal position such that the oil will not drain?
Hi Will. Thanks for your message. I think you will find that it will pour out of the side as the filter is vertically on the side wall of the Haldex unit. If the garage has done the oil, I am surprised they did not give you the option for the filter? Thanks for the comment!
Hi there and thanks for your comment. Yes they came from EBay uk and the listing is called “AUDI A5 Q5 Q7 TT METAL TRIM CLAMPING WASHER HEAT SHIELD UNDERTRAY INSULATION” so if you search using that term, you should find it. Are you undertaking the job yourself? If so, let me know how you get on! Cheers! Andy
@@andycharger Thanks for that. I only need to change oil next time, thankfully. What a stupid place for Audi to put the filter. Keep up the videos, really useful. thanks you.
Hi Amjer. It is fairly inaccessible doing it that way. If you can get it in, great. However, there must be a reason why Audi recommend it the other way.
The Bentley manual says you should fill from the bottom up to avoid trapping any air. I was thinking of filling via the inspection plug hole until I read that..... Now I'll give it a go via the drain plug as Andy demonstrates (when the time comes).
@@stevieb7121 can trapped air escape somewhere up top. Wondering if you should fill from bottom then tighten filter, otherwise you will end up with a trapped bubble of air no?
Hi Graeme and good question. I did try this but it does not appear to be possible. I tried to squirt some in but it would not take it. If you can get any in, please do let me know!
Would this be any different for a MK2 (or indeed a MK3)? You say that if you caught enough in the ice-cream tub to be worth adding in you would do so via the inspection hole, but you didn't show the inspection hole or explain why all the oil can't be added through the inspection hole in the first place. I must say that if this is the correct method it is very poor design to have to add fluid upwards into a unit! Nuts!
Thanks for the comment Andrew. You simply cannot get anything in the inspection hole. I’m not sure if it is pressure preventing or what. I’m not sure if it’s the same on mk2 or 3 but would imagine it has improved. As crazy as it seems, filling from below is the method!
G052175A1 High Performance Oil, 02D525558A Filter, 02D525729 Drain plug. Special tool required to remove filter. VW Audi Seat Skoda Haldex Oil Filter Service Tool Car Garage Tool Spanner 46mm Regular servicing of the Haldex will ensure good performance and long life. Audi recommend every 30,000 km. Considering rebuilds for Haldex systems wouldn't be cheap, changing the oil regularly would be a very good idea. TIP: Put the oil tube in the freezer for 24h before pressing it into the Haldex to reduce the mess when putting the drain plug back.
Hi Andy, after watching the video by BWS TT (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vSjWdcpDs84.html) about pumping the oil, no need of extra hose & nozzle, but it's a also a good idea ;-)
Yes there are several ways to do it. Mine requires no cutting of the nozzle and a slower delivery of oil to ensure there are no leaks. Both work equally well. Thanks for watching.
Hi Andy, I changed the haldex oil this morning and your method is definitely the best. In fact, the hole through which you load the oil is not deep (less than a centimetre) and doesn't allow you to get the nozzle in far enough. With your tip, I lost almost no oil when I replaced the drain plug 🙂@@andycharger
