Hi I'm watching this video from the UK ,and I'd just like to say this is one of the best videos iv seen on the subject, but perhaps I'm bais As I'm having to replace the battery on my A5, and find your down to earth humour, with clear instructions, very useful 👌
Informative video Glen! I had to go through the same procedure of where I replaced the battery on the 2016 Escape a few weeks ago. The procedure for VWs are different for Ford as I didn't have to enter any serial number for the battery. Basically, click on the reset button in the scanner and it says battery has been reset. Have a good one!
@@ozzstars_cars As for as the coding it was pretty easy. Not so easy on the battery replacement as the battery was totally underneath the cowl. I had to remove the wiper arms, the cowl, the drain pain and a few other items. Not like the old days when the battery was right there in front of you.
LOL, glad you enjoyed my trans swap! I was losing my mind on that job! There should be an engine swap vid coming any day now, lol. It's still running for now ... but who knows for how long. :0 Things are getting WAY to complicated out there in the automotive world today! Boy do I miss the days of ONE wire alternators - they either charge, or they don't! And they used to put 'em under the hood! If I had known what was coming, I'd have bought every car I saw as a teenager and stored them, lol. Sorry man - I am failing miserably with the damn phone notifications. I didn't see your vid, but I saw Eric's last night. Just realized I missed one from Ivan, too. Technology! Works for everyone but me, LOL! :D I just had to put a battery in the Silverado. Battery #2 within 14 years. I got 8 out of the OE one (with help from my fancy BatteryMinder charger), then I spent $300 on an Odyssey AGM, and barely got over 5 years out of that one! Was so mad. I hate the computer-controlled field on this charging system. I don't think it does a very good job. Wish there was a way to get it to keep the battery at 14.2v and stay there at all times. There probably is - I'm just not motivated enough to figure it out! I got 12 years out of a DieHard battery I bought in Phoenix that I had in my '72 El Camino. I had heard that was because it was a "hot climate" battery - thicker plates for desert heat. Don't know how true that is, but it seems plausible. The battery did seem heavier than normal. It certainly lasted a good long time. I grabbed a DieHard Premium from Advance Auto for the Silverado - hopefully they didn't just slap a name on a cheap battery. Guess I'll know in 6-8 years or so! Anyway - great vid, man - I had no idea about any of this. I have a feeling I'm in for A TON of surprises with these newer vehicles ...
The longest I got out of a battery was in my Ford Ranger, 14 years no name brand. My friends father is in the auto battery business for over 35 years. He says sometimes you get a "good one". Nowadays 5 or more years and your winning...or should I say waiting... for the battery to quit. I don't get notices anymore in gmail. Occasuonally I go to the subscription tab and scroll through to see who posted. Lately it seems my free down time is limited.
@@ozzstars_cars - Good to know about batteries. I have long suspected that! Just like cars - sometimes you get a good one, lol. 14 years is AMAZING!! I figured only far northern climates would get that kind of life. Interesting! I hear that on the free down time - I've been working on editing a engine mount swap vid on yet another GMT-900 platform ('07 Suburban - same as mine except for the aluminum block LC3 instead of the iron block LMG mine has, and disc rear axle instead of the drum on mine, too). I'm a week into it, lol. Just can't get a minute to finish. I just got back from dad's a few towns over. Slammed down some caffeine while I watched your video, now I have to finish up that powered parachute trike that's been here 3 months now, lol. Not enough hours in the day!
I'm getting an aftermarket AGM battery for my S5. I don't see anywhere the serial number like the one you showed. Can I use the same as yours? My understanding is that the computers just wants a number to reset all values.
Hello, can you put a new battery with same capacity if the subscription is outdated? If there is a different capacity can you code it without subscription?
Any advice on getting this to work with a 2013 audi q7? Anytime I try to hit function 61 to adapt new battery (800cca h7 Agm everstart), it just says function not available no matter how much I try.
@cjo3620 To be honest I am not familiar with that tool. Contact Auyel directly to see if that tool has the capability with the specific car you are working on.
Hi. did you place a 12v battery or jumper pack on the front engine battery contacts so that you don't lose any of the radio or other settings before disconnecting/replacing it? Thanks
Do they have an app for the battery scan code thing so we can do it on our smart phone without having to buy a scanner? I don't know what scanner I need and where to buy it for my 16 VW Jetta. And I want to do it today before work, so online websites are out of the question.
If you don't code your battery, the system will likely treat the "new" battery as a (n+)-year-old battery and may end up charging it/cycling improperly. The discharge rate and other factors will vary from new to old. Also, if the amp hours are different from the new vs the old, the vehicle won't know this and you may end up with a battery that doesn't last as long as it should. I bought an aftermarket battery from both O'Reilly and Costco. The O'Reilly battery did not have MFG details or a BEM code, but the Costco did. The Costco AGM battery was superior and cost less. It was also made by an OEM mfr, same as the existing battery in my VW Atlas. If you DO NOT code the battery into the vehicle, you may experience random electrical problems (some maybe 6 months down the road) as well as shortened battery life.
@cmscott Can it cause your car to not start. I bought a aftermarket one. Car cranks with no start, windows not working. High beam lights have a weird sound and random communication fault codes.
Hard to understand why this is necessary. A cynic would say it is to reduce pesky aftermarket competition, but that can't be the only reason. Maybe in case a lithium or AGM battery is used instead of lead acid.
It is a mystery to me why all the Euro's require this. Maybe most owners rely on the dealership to do maintenance work and this is a gravy way to make more profit? We will probably never know. Ford uses battery registration as well, I know the F150 does. Cool thing is if you leave the truck sit unused for 8 hours the BEM will auto calibrate. Otherwise using the scan tool is the way to go.
My understanding is that the newer vehicles with autostart/stop will be cycling the battery (and starter) many more times than a non autostart/stop vehicle. EFB and EFB+, as well as AGM batteries, are designed to handle this functionality way better. Programming the battery details is likely one way to ensure that the correct specs and type are used in the event of a warranty issue that is caused by an electrical malfunction. Also, resetting the system/battery "start" date can help the system learn how to properly charge the battery over time (i.e., a newer battery may not need the same care/attention/charging cycle time, etc. as an older battery).
