I've had a pair of those for many years. My Dad actually made them years ago and used them all his life. Since he passed on now, I still use them for changing the oil in my vehicles and for doing under vehicle repairs. They are safe and solid. The pair I bought from the big box store, I ended up throwing away because they weren't safe anymore. These will last me the rest of my life. Mine are solid wood with stops screwed to the front so the vehicle doesn't go over the top when you drive onto them. Mine are also tapered so I can drive lower vehicles onto them without rubbing the bumper on them. I also glued rubber on the bottom to keep them from sliding when you drive up onto them.
I made a set of these probably 40 years ago. I made the ramp detachable. They will support the heaviest of vehicles. My ramp portion is built like his, but the main portion is stacked two by twelves. Having removable ramps, gives me more flexibility doing repairs.
After buying a regular set of metal ramps that were reinforced and then a set that had detachable ramps, I made a set of wooden ramps. Both metal ramps bent, when I drove up them when they weren’t exactly dead on straight. I built a wooden set and have been using these for the last 20 years. They don’t have to be exactly straight, they don’t bend or break. They give me me a 5 1/4” lift, enough to change oil and other minor things. If I need higher I use my jack and stands. Thanks! Jim
Due to the weight of the car the ramps are pressed against te pavement. i Don't think they will fall over. However, making them wider than the wheels would make them extremely stable.
Similar but much easier and stronger ramps can be made (with a chainsaw) by simply flat stacking rough 2x8s or 10s, cut off in two-inch steps or longer as required...a kind of staircase ramp. I recommend to staircase them on the other end too, but steeper, for stability. Simply nail together and make a 2x4 stop nailed flat on the end on top. Strong enough for anything, including big trucks. Rough but effective.
Yes, get as hard a wood as possible and wider than your tires. The design in the video is just too weak to be safe. Any force other than absolute vertical and those ramps could buckle with even a very light weight car on it. But solid wood, screwed together, no problem
I made 4 of those and used them for 30+ years. Used galvanized 3.5" spiral nails. They were easy to move around, stand them up on the ramp end put your arm over the upside to fit in your armpit ;-) clamp them, lift and walk. The thing is not that heavy when lifted this way. Wish I could demonstrate, instead of describing.
Its a good idea, but if i was making these i would ply sevral peices of this timber together flat ways (with glue aswell) and cut the ramp from what would then essentially be a solid wood block instead of this sort of box section construction. Probably have them a bit wider aswell to reduce the risk of rolling. Maybe thats OTT but if your going to be lying under tons of metal its better to be safe than sorry. For sure its great idea and really handy to get the whole front end up but id still have a jack under there to take some of the weight
This has got to be the best idea for raising a car to work underneath mechanically. I will be making one but using birch plywood with center beam made of dimensional lumber for strength. Keep the great videos coming Dr.Hacker. Peace too VF
Antes de meterse debajo del carro se deben de cumplir con varias cosas más sobre seguridad., utilizar TRIPIES de metal y colocarlos debajo de la suspensión,usar topes en las llantas traseras,no niños cerca,etc.
Ok, эта шняга должна быть раза в два шире и также иметь опоры по бокам для защиты от опрокидывания. А так конструкция надежная, доска более чем толстая для такого веса.
I had steel ramps before. Besides the inconvenience of storing those monsters, I actually had one slip when trying to drive a car up on it. I'll stick to hydraulic floor jacks and jack stands.
One technique from keeping metal ramps from slipping is to thread a long strap through the holes such ramps typically have. Then run the strap straight back so your rear wheels are on the straps as your front climb the ramps.
Yeah, I made a similar set but used a solid core and lag bolts from one side to the other. Mine were homemade because I needed a longer slope than normal as my car is low to the ground. But goes without saying that this is fine to elevate the vehicle, you still need proper jackstands to support it afterwards. These here are a bit risky, may be a bit too narrow and the assembly is definitely dangerous, nails are not adequate to hold them together. At a bare minimum I would at least used screws and even then screws can shear under stress.
MY dad has a similar pair of these back in the 60's and no doubt they were made many years before we were born . I have also made several pair back in the 80's.. and those who think they are dangerous simply dont understand physics. They will never collapse or tip over ..not in hundred or more years unless you're just stupid or careless about driving onto them way off center. .
Dude, you nailed it! I mean, I can't believe you actually used shuttering nails for a job like this, and you are very lucky to have survived using them. In fact, with that level of luck, go buy a lottery ticket and get yourself a proper set of steel ramps with the winnings.
These are hollow inside. The ones I made are way better, can hold a semi on them and I will never have to worry about them breaking. I used 6 2x6's, cut them at an angle as this guy did and used 4 12 inch bolts to hold them together. Mine are wider than his, heavier and much more durable.
Set up a mirror on the ground so you can see exactly where you are as you climb the ramp. Helps in not overshooting the stop on top (don't ask me how I know). By the way, I use inexpensive plastic ramps that do the job quite well.
I designed a set of car ramps based of this video, it was my girlfriend who said i should build some instead of buy some so thats what i plan on doing. Got the design in autocad and everything ready to go for tomorrow and im very excited to get cutting and making. Thank you for the design idea. only things i changed was how long the base extends out past the angled part of the ramp, a slight angle on the back stop so the weight is more over the middle of the stands and mice will be made out of 1 inch thick pieces with a 9.125 inch base to drive up so it extra stable since my car rims are 17 x 7.
Put the stop blocks further from the edge. If you hit the stop blocks as they are shown with too much momentum, you will tip the ramps over and damage the car and get stuck. The front edge of the tire should be stopped back at least 4 to 6 inches.
Mark G My thoughts as well. I would have put the stop blocks about 6 inches further to the rear, and probably made the top of the ramp a bit longer. Other than that, these are actually much safer and stronger than most of the cheapy metal or plastic ramps, although a bit heavier.
Also those stop plates are eventually going to fall off. Every time the tires bump into them it pushes the stop block out and pulls on the nails. Not a good design there.
@@mjenx86 No. The tire rides over the top and puts minimal forward force, more downward force as the tire tries to climb over the stop. The stop blocks should be across the top and 4 inches from the end. The axle should be about 8 inches from the end or the block will tip forward on braking.
Very solid build inter and outer will take 500lb pressure per inch.. That will hold a 32 ton lorry I have try it . I should be out of hospital in 6 weeks time...
Tony Suley, please DO NOT try this. it is extremely dangerous. if you want to use wood as a car ramp then please use some SOLID lumber. such as 4x6 or 4x8.
Built something similar to this about 28 years ago but longer and wider to handle 32,000 pound trucks. No air space, solid stack of 2x12 lumber, with 45 degree cut on each step so they don't kick forward as you climb up with a rear wheel drive. Added a 2x4 as the last step (square cut) so you know when to stop. Gave me a good additional 8 inches for oil changes and also used them on the rear duals (inside wheel) for installing snow chains (on the outside tire) without having to jack the truck up. I put a nice heavy duty handle on the side for carrying them. (garage door handle) The company is still using them and they have not rotted because they are stored inside. I also added marks on the garage floor so I could set them in place and not have to fool around if I wanted to close the door in the winter. IOW, exact same location each time, leaving room to work. It's not rocket science. Truck mechanics have been doing this for decades.
@@mptrader1620 No pictures, other than whatever you can visualize in your mind. I used the width of the tires as my starting point, which on my trucks was about 11 inches. Laid the lumber flat and figured out how high I wanted to go. From there it was simple math that each board should be a few inches different than the next. In my case the bottom plank was about 4 ft long and each of the next ones was about 6 inches shorter. The handles were from a garage door so fairly sturdy, and easily available at any hardware store. Guessing each ramp weighs around 40 pounds. As I said, 30 years later they are still in use and with a fleet of 12 oil trucks, they are used on a regular basis.
To the critics that are saying wood is weak let me tell you something they use wood stools to hold up movable houses they use wood to hold up railway tracks
www.walmart.com/ip/RhinoGear-11909ABMI-RhinoRamps-Vehicle-Ramp-Pair-12-000lb-GVW-Capacity/19526658?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&wl13=2860&adid=22222222228017563421&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=60968599608&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-87559257888&wl5=9011274&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=local&wl12=19526658&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAzanuBRAZEiwA5yf4uuzqTRv4LNYcx3cr373jPr2USemj7euVL67eEDv-fnZDIRuJFQWdFxoCXsYQAvD_BwE. Sure you can lol
I made some of these over 35 years ago with less wood than these. Had Suburbans and other large vehicles up on them for all that time. These are way better than what you can buy because they lift higher. Use 2 x 12s for the wood.
Do you think could be this more safe www.tradeshopitalia.com/37609-large/2-supporti-cavalletti-regolabile-per-auto-supporto-cavalletto-einhell-bt-as-2000.jpg
EM - I would actually prefer a wider base myself but its hardly “dangerous” as is. In fact, his ramps are as wider or wider than the average jack stand base, and it wold take an awful lot of side force to push a car off of a pair of jack stands setting on a concrete driveway. Still, he did make some mistakes. For example I would have glue the joints prior to nailing them. Also he wasted a lot of wood and made a lot of extra cuts for himself by not just cutting two tapered sections from one longer piece of wood. Just one angled cut down the middle and you have two identical taper cut pieces with no waste.
SLOBeachboy i get what your saying but if he would of just made some support on the bottom of them, it would prevent them from tipping. I’ve seen something like this in person and watched a car fall on a guy. Completely made me view car supports really differently.
Made mine out of 2 x 10 and laid them flat. Yes they are a little heavy but they do not slide like metal ramps and don't crack like plastic ramps. Cost under $20 in lumber, glued and screwed. I would never use nails on something like this. They are solid and work GREAT. Today's cars have fewer locations to jack from and place jack stands. Jacks and jack stands can and do slip which is very unnerving. These wooden ramps are great to do quick oil changes and they store easily out of the way. Painted them with some old exterior house paint so they will last.
If you make those ramps too steep the spoiler area under the bumper will get damaged or even torn out when the car goes up or down the ramps . The ramp must be long and gentle .
i have some nice steel ramps,but i use my floor jack and jack stands 90% of the time,since it is super fast and safe imo...plus you can lift cars up exactly where you need them to be...
You all should have more respect for your elders if you were my son and I heard you speaking to someone like that you would need a major operation to get my foot out of your backside.
Look guys! Someone finally "invented" that thing we have all been needing to lift our vehicles up to get work done! Now if only there was a more reliable, affordable, easily accessible way to get ramps just like those..... This guy is an absolute "genius".
a leadpen is way better than an inkpen. more accurate, and shouldnt the nailgun be adjusted to punch in the nails properly so you dont have to use a hammer afterwards?
Markers are used by people who never do exact work. A number of the people making videos here are uncapable and have no knowledge of measuring, marking, cutting, drilling, welding ….. I could go on and on! All they can do is push the button to take pictures/make videos. I would be ashamed to show some of the stuff that some others make here. Rotton wood, rusty steel...just paint over it and present it. We are living in a world today where people do not take pride in what they do.
have you ever heard a real nail gun ...they bang ...not a zip noise thats an auto feeder drive ...dry liners use them ...hes only knocking it tighter dont mean i condone this video ....its a big no ...ramps are certified ,the only your certifying doing this is eventually ,your own death !!!
So please, please, please, can you tell me , how is te live after death ? is there more stupids like this? crushed by a car because they used cheap wood ramps ?
It could use some more though, but at least you left a spot in the back to store your mary jane. Oh and you could buy them cheaper than what you paid for the 2X10's
I made some from wood 25 years ago. The only cutting I did was on the length. 12 6' - 2x8 lumber boards. 2 cut to 5 1/2'. 2 cut to 5'. 2 cut to 4 1/2'. 2 cut 4'. 2 cut 3 1/2'. 1 of each size laid on top of one another and screwed together with countersunk wood screws. Worked just like it was 2 solid cuts of wood. Seems like I used a small piece to each ramp to act as a stabilizer on the back of each ramp. And they could be used on nearly any surface. Even in the yard. Try that with a metal ramp, and the weight of the front end will drive it into the ground.
Glue would have helped. Solid wood throughout the ramp would have helped. Screws would have helped. Painting it red would have made it much safer. This would be fine for a lawnmower. People, don’t do this.
If they were made from 2x12 lying one on top of another instead of sideways it would be great and safe. They would be a little heavy but not bad with the rollers.
Зачем? Для каких работ? Для замены масла не подойдёт, для ремонта ходовой надо снимать колёса почти во всех случаях. Можно просто произвести визуальный осмотр, но и это опасно.
а что, собственную машину ежедневно обслуживают что ли? Хорошо, если раз в год в теплых странах, ну два раза как в России, при переходе с зимы на лето и обратно. Всё! Для редкого использования и такое сойдёт.
andrademeza fifty bucks gets you a decent set of ramps. Perfectly capable of supporting a vehicle. It’s idiots putting lateral load on the ramps that causes them to bend or warp. Operator error, not product flaw. I have never seen even the cheapest of metal ones have problems when properly used
Awesome brilliant! First person to build DIY workshop ramps! And: - - too narrow for safety - stop blocks too close to the end for safety - too steep for the material used - heavier than commercially available. Also probably more expensive and bigger.
I made a set and realised what a load of rubbish. I went on to make a second pair what was not as steep only to find that any type of dampness on the tyre's it just slips on the wood on the way up. But on the up side the wood kept my workshop nice and warm ☺
I suppose it depends on what country you are in and what materials are available. Here in the UK wood is expensive so buying steel ramps is a more worthwhile solution
That's an accident waiting to happen. it does not need to be that high. The ramps and landings need to be longer. Less steep, and more stopping area, preferably with an indentation for the tires. But these do work. Can't say they are really any cheaper than a cheap set of metal ones.
Give them to a skateboarder. They look nice and narrow. Or try pushing your car off these blocks you made. Good luck and for everyone else buy yourself a set of ramps for thirty bucks.
Fair Idea because what happens if it slips off the edge of your ramps... Damage the undercaridge and it may be very expensive!!! Please put edge guards so it won't slip off! Wet or oil on the wood is slippery Try putting anti slip material to the wood surface and hope it doesn't slip off !!!
obscur156 come on people,,,,,,,lighten up and learn to live a little more dangerously like this guy. you all act like you're afraid to have a car fall on you .
Here in America, you can buy ramps that are lighter, safer, and much cheaper than buying the wood material. Not even including the time wasted to build them.
Keijo Viitanen because he’s under a truck supported by hollow wooden structures. And he’s supported by the end grain (the weak part of the wood). Those things will fracture and splinter over time and eventually fail. He is an idiot for getting under that truck. Had he made them solid and had all wood mounted horizontally, then he would be fine.
Thats 6 mins 31 seconds i will never get back in my life. Dont use them completely unsafe would be safer cutting them to 2ft lengths and nailing them together. Them jack the car up and use them as blocks under the wheels!!
Lol well, I never said I was in favor of it, but it never fails that there are multiple people who "know" exactly what is wrong with every video that comes out. I'm not sure the best way to build them but I probably wouldn't drive my truck up on those.
Just curious. What engineering degree does one need to have in order to see these are dangerous? Tip over on the side, crushed under weight or drive over the ramp. Duh, yeah, let me go to college for 8 years to figure that out.
