Axe - Detailed Game Objects - P16 - Unwrapping Tips 

The fact that this is all free is nuts. Thank you Grant, amazing stuff

Grant I wanna thank you for all your tutorials. I've gone from not knowing any 3d modeling to working for an indie dev team as a Prop and weapons modeler. All with in 1 year of watching you and blender guru's videos. So Thank you.

I wish Id given you a portion of my Uni money, Your tutorial is achieveing more over this series than the 3 lecturers on a disjointed semester XD You de bomb

Hey Grant. Just wanted to take a minute and thank you for everything you do for the Blender community. It is greatly appreciated.

I'm loving the series, you are probably one of the best or probably the best blender youtuber that teaches stuff this easily to people. Thank you!

i'm still enjoying the series please keep up the good work

u are the best teacher in the world abbit !

That "quick favorite" tip is great! Thank you, Grant! ⭐

Brilliant. I can't believe I've made it this far. This is my first sculpt. I'm going to do your character class after I complete this tutorial - already signed up for it. Hopefully some of this will stick in my brain and help me through it.

Something to watch out for: UV islands with potentially dissimilar colour may need some space. For example in your final unwrap, the second from the left island in the middle row is nearly touching the axe head piece, first in the bottom row. A hierarchy of MIP levels is usually generated by game engine import tools, by taking the full resolution texture, then scaling it down successively by averaging a group of 4 texels into one new texel. So when you look at the object under an angle or from a distance, several MIP levels get queried for colour information (and normal and attributes, but it's most visible for colour) to compute the final colour information for each pixel, so some colour can bleed through from the neighbouring area. The more dissimilar the colours, the more of a safety margin you may want to leave. If you don't know yet at unwrap stage, you can just leave about 1/8th the texture width of a guard band between islands which may be of dissimilar material just to be safe. Another technique to avoid bleed is to use the boundaries at 1/2, 1/4, 1/8th the texture width where no guard band is necessarily needed. An extra hazard which makes it worse is texture compression (S3TC and derived), which greatly limits the hue difference or basically gamut in each 4x4 texel group, and it applies also to all MIP levels. If you imagine an RGB cube, essentially all colours in a 4x4 texel group get confined to a single line through the cube, so while trying to encode dissimilar hue-value groups, it will probably just modify the hue to something in between. While you are working in Blender, you don't see the devastating effects of texture compression yet, and MIP behaviour of the final engine can also provide nasty surprises.

超级好，简直是保姆级的教学，讲的特别详细，谢谢

I don't get it, he's always promoting other people's courses but I never actually see him promoting his own course although they're all supposed to be as good as paid courses. Keep up the good work! I have sure learned a lot from your channel! I wish you're my teacher 😃

You have the best tutorials EVER! Thank you SOOOO much!

amazing nice beautiful !

Yes sir Still Enjoying your series 😁

I had a problem of some of my unwraps had long stretched vertices, i went around the mesh and found each point and it was doubles that had not merged with distance so i had to merge them manually and then unwrap again. Great tutorial i've finally learnt something about unwrapping/

Thank you master! I really love the way that you explain, actually you have very relaxing voice hahaha. Thank again!

Thank you!

Thx. for providing such detailed series for free :-)

if you are in edit mode you can press Alt+Q to switch between models witout pressing tab

This is amazing - thank you so much!

Thanks a lot for this amazing video.

Good job! Waiting for the next video - P17 :)

This series is so helpful 👍....keep going ✌️

Ok, so the whole course is splendid, but your UV is something that really surprised me. I assume you made it that simplistic only for the sake of tutorial. I mean, I have only a little bit of commercial experience, but I'm sure none of my leads would allow me to leave that much of unused texture space :P

Wow

Hi Grant! I have a question. Do we always need to unwrap the model that we design? and by the way, I didn't watch this series. If you already answered this question in the videos, I am sorry

"Baked image saved to internal map" I am getting this message everytime i bake a texture😫... Can you help solve this problem??

Very good tutorials thank you. But please would you continue this series of the Axe sculpting with texturing it, using the procedural and the hand paint texturing, and how to bake the texture? Showing how to deal with high and low res? How to save your images?

I'm surprised you didn't put seams around the top and bottom of the handle. Won't you get stretching this way? Or is it not a problem when baking normals?

Think I've took a wrong turn here somewhere. I've done the seams in the correct place but I think when it comes to unwrapping I'm only getting one half of the mesh. Any tips on troubleshooting or how I could remedy this? I'm assuming a mirror modifier but I don't want to screw up further with assumptions.

Wouldn't overlapping similarly sized islands be a good thing? Such as the mirrored sides of the axe head or the similarly sized islands of the metal rings. That way you could save texture space and use lower resolution textures. Great tutorials by the way.

How many parts are planned for the series Grant? Wondering, as the plan is to finish up Blender Guru's 4-week course and then binge this straight after :)

Do you mind sharing your pc specs? Really want to get into sculpting in blender and then zbrush, want to know what id need to run smoothly.

I have a question that's a tad bit off-topic and goes into texture painting which I'm personally looking forward to: What would be the best approach in painting textures- but not drawing them in Blender? How would you go about creating the textures in another software all the while still being able to know where you need to paint the textures to work with the unwrapped UV and other things (such as what size should the texture image be and other possible pointers)

What would you recommend to do when Shift+N doesn't reverse the normals?

hello everyone and thank u so much Grant I just want to know why did we sculpt if we are gonna do the retopology later on

Have you considered to use substance painter for texturing ? I got confused when use it 😭

Thank you from Paraguay! I have one question, if I used boolean modifiers to join my separate meshes, will I have any sort of problems in the future? I didn't have any when unwrapping, and by the way I'm doing a diferent game object

Thank you so much for these videos, they've been so helpful to get some new stuff on my portfolio! I'm commenting on this one though, because I'm having a pain in the *ss kinda problem. For some reason Blender won't recognise my runes as facing outward :'( I don't know if there's a smart way to fix normals flipped the wrong way? My computer is really not a fan of having to select faces on the HP mesh. Thank you again for the videos! I hope someone will know of a way to fix these normals more efficiently O.o

I must've messed up my mesh big time along the way. My UVs are all over the place and really screwed :( Especially the straps on the axe head.

Hey Grant, as always thank you so much for these lessons! I had a question that I was hoping you might be able to help me answer... I'm currently making a stylized robot, and I've UV unwrapped everything and started painting it.. but I noticed I missed beveling an edge.. not a big deal honestly, but I was wondering if it's possible to just bevel that edge and not re-unwrap the object, as I noticed it seems to update the UV with the bevel as well? I've tested re-unwrapping and it does change the UV slightly.. I guess my question is could I get away with it on a stylized project, and how might it affect other texturing methods? Thanks again for all your amazing work man! edit: I forgot to mention that I'm using Blender 2.91

Never new this

Texturing time

3 viewer :D