This has to be one of the best video I've seen.. I told my wife if we lived in the same town this guy could be my mechanic.. and that is saying something because I struggle with letting someone else work on my vehicles. Note when I worked on Big Trucks to remove the race I just put a little weld bead around the race, let cool and it basically falls right out..
I just stumbled upon your channel. Very impressed with your work. You are meticulous and thorough. No half assery here. I subscribed, and will probably watch all your videos..thank you brother.
I am jealous of seeing a 13 year old truck with only what amounts to a little surface rust. Ten year old trucks I work on here in Wisconsin look like they are going to fall apart underneath.
I noticed that you had a hard time getting that inner race in. I have used your method before, using the old race to drive the new race down. What I did was cut the old race with the thinnest cutoff wheel I had, this allowed the old race to still have the same dimensions as the new race (therefore ensuring there is no damage to the new race) and the little cut allows the old race to "squeeze" together ever so slightly and continue driving down the new race. It is easy to remove, a couple taps on it and its out. This enables you to get the new race driven down without having to use a punch!
Great class. From an old man think about wearing hearing protection. My hearing aids cost 6,000 dollars in 1022. I knew but didn’t do it. Good hearing protection is about 50.00. Thanx for the class!
bop-1 Really nice video! Clear and straight information. Having bent a wrench for years until the rotator cuff gave out and went into the parts end I appreciated him taking time to sign for the parts on another job. And no "special" tools in use. Thank you for a great video.
I love how chill this is but man definitely looks like you could use some lights in that shop! Oh and one thing using a small tipped hardened punch like that I’ve seen people who weren’t careful leave scratches which isn’t a huge deal for where it’s at but I use a flatten cold chisel! That’s just fir those guys who tend to get over aggressive on things! Thanks for the good content!
Very clear and the video keeps moving. Maybe you should go to Hollywood. Your vid is more interesting that a lot of movies out there. Two things a like a lot, your voice is clear and the volume is even and your use of the magnetic LED work-lamp shows what you are doing very well. Keep up the good work.
I love the detail and very well explained, you did an awesome job on video, thank you. I have the same exacted truck but four door. I just wish mine was rust free like that one, I live in rust belt country, ( Minnesota )
I've done dozens of these Sterling and Dana 60/70 style axles.Usually in the dang woods in the middle of a mud hole lol. I always change race and bearings as a set unless it's an offroad hooptie. Freeze the race and heat the hub with a hot air gun or torch a lil, they fall right in. Every 100 degrees its thousandths of an inch, works like a charm. You will hear a pitch change when that race is flush. And yes, get the spindle nut socket, gotta set bearing preload. Over tighten, loosen it up, then set preload, Just about everyone I've seen the nut was chewed to hell by a nit nit with a chisel lol,( guilty of it myself) Love the way you clean the tar out of everthing. Just bought a tub of caliper grease..frickin $20!!, but should last a while. Bout 28lbs on caliper bolts. Ive always used neverseize on em..yea yea I know but NEVER had one back off. Too much rust on our vehicles not to use neversieze. Funny I do all my buddy's garbage truck repairs haha. Great job as usual Brother...keep em comin!!
Nice video. Don't think I will spray the hub down with degreaser after installing the new bearings though. Definitely got some degreaser on the new bearings...
Really enjoyed the video buddy, looks like it might have been a bit of a job but when you have all the right tools it goes together much better, was that the Harbor Freight light you were using, great video as always.
Nice Vid man. I like using the old race to drive in the new race as well. I hit the OD of the old race on the bench grinder to remove a bit of material so it doesn't get hung up in there while driving in the new one. I also anneal it because I found it was denting up my hammer face and figured it will probably be nicer to the new race as well. I'm not working on all sorts of different vehicles, so it's worth my time to do it. I also install them on the concrete floor as you can really tell / hear when they are fully seated.
American axel told me just do the seals because they are so over built the bearings would be fine just do seals and buy them straight from American axle they work the best and I did and a great bunch of guys !!!
Love the fact that you took it all the way down to the race you're in there replace it all only gripe is did I really see you Vise it by the studs? Great work regardless
TwiZ1975cj5 for sure but really it's a stud you don't want to have to go through all that again to pull it apart replace two studs because it got boogered-up that you didn't know was boogered up until you put a lug nut on there and it got tight putting it on
boostedKTM it wouldn't have completely ruined them to the point where I had to do the job over again I would just run a thread chaser over the studs and clean them up
I liked very much the in-depth detailed video. Sometimes the littlest of things can be missed. Every detail and sometimes angle counts. I also liked you naming your tools. At some point I was wondering what brand of impacts you were using but, later in the video you named them. At first I didn't know what you were cleaning with but, at some point the can was in front of the camera and I was able to read it. Thank you for your time and effort with this video. I really enjoyed it. I have only one question. Do you know where I can rent the hub puller and bearing race tool? Or maybe but them?
good video. why do you have to loosen the outer bearing nut after you tighten it? is it supposed to be that lose? thats like 0 preload on the bearings. I'm about to do this on my truck so I'm watching/reading everything I can.
When working on cars we always torque down bolts to secure the installed part and develop that mindset. Roller type bearing doesn't get torque down. I tightened the nut to set the bearing preload, then back the nut off. The nut is there to keep the bearing in place and will usually have some sort of locking set up to keep the nut from moving. hope this helps, any further question head over to bryan916.com ( nut should never exceed 20ft lbs)
Brother great fucking video!! When I get back home I'll be doing the same shit to my 3500, can't do shit when you're deployed over seas deterring aggression lmao! you got a fan from here on out brother take care.
Bryan how many miles did this truck have on it when the seal started leaking? I have an '04 Ram 2500 with the same issue and it has less than 69K on the odo. Likely started leaking due to lack of driving it and the seal deteriorated.
Good morning.I just changed the rear wheel seal and break caliper on my 2017 Dodge Ram,6.4 hemi because it had a leak but it's still leaking.Any advice.
How does a guy get at the seal and bearing that is down the shaft can ya access it through the cover plate on the pumpkin or do ya need a special tool to get at it??? Thanks.
My 2008 3500 4X4 Ram has this exact same set up. I noticed there is approximately 1/4 inch of play when you rotate the hub assembly left and right. That is to say clockwise and counterclockwise. This is occuring on the drivers side only. The passenger side seems to have zero play. Does anyone know if this is normal? The differential is limited slip and the truck is stock. Vehicle has 105,000 miles. If this play is not normal, is it likey to be worn splines where the shaft enters the differential? I have not taken it appart. I noticed this when changing the rear brake pads. Thanks.
You should have zero play in your hub! This could be caused by a few things. The most likely cause is wheel bearings, but you never know until you take it apart and inspected it!
@@Bryan916 Thanks for the quick response. Just to conform, the play is when you rotate the hub. IE. When you grab it and rotate it. When you are spinning it by hand. There is no play up and down or in and out. If that makes sense. The play occurs without the drive shaft turning. Thanks again.
@@davidsine4390 Mine is the same way but on the passenger side instead of the driver. Wheel bearings have no effect on that lol it would be something inside the differential. I'm guessing it's because of the limited slip or posi trac that makes one side feel tight and the other has some play. The play you feel is just the backlash between the ring and pinion gears.
I think this is what im about to do. It looked like that bearing was shot. Thats what im expecting to find. Felt like my whole wheel was going to flop off
He knows and said you do things in pairs. He's not wrong but I would have left the bearings alone or replaced both(sides) of them. The other thing is not replacing those gear oil soaked e-brake pads. Which I thought was odd because he did bearings. Odd not wrong. He made a great video.
How do you know if the grease would change the properties of the gear oil? Do we want grease mixing in with our diff? I would not.. if the gear oil is spec'ed for high pressure gears, I would hope it would be able to lube the hub bearings.
@@hondaguy425able packing bearings with grease is ok, but if you dont pack them make sure you park truck on a tilted angle both ways so that lube travels to both bearings.....do not travel long straight distances before doing this.
@@Bryan916 I've learned to put the inner races in a freezer overnight and pop them in the next morning. Outer races I put on a hot plate (not open flame) and slide them onto shafts where necessary. But it requires a bit a time.
Bryan916 It certainly helped me when I pulled wrenches in a heavy truck shop. I do it every time now when changing pins and bushings on excavation equipment.
Those bolts take a lot of work to get out because they are covered in thread locker compound. They WILL work loose if you don't use any. A full sized corded 3/4 impact would take as long to run those bolts out. It's not his tool. It's the bolt. I did two sets today.
You didn't debur the race seats from your punch marks, so I doubt they were properly seated. Just spray the new bearing with break clean after the half ass bearing preload job. Red lock tight on the axle bolts ... for fuck sake blue is plenty strong enough. People do not follow these steps you'll be redoing the job. Hack job at best
Stupid points you tried to make! First off novice There's no burs on the race seat try again! 2nd everything was clean with brake clean thoroughly. 3rd this truck is used to haul very heavy loads red Loctite is more then appropriate for this application besides the factory threadlocker from Chrysler is extra strong so Come back with more valid points amateur!
your ignorance is showing. the facing where he punched it out is NOT the sealing surface. it seals on the same I.D. as the race does. i applaud the OP for making this.
