It was pretty much Collett's plan as a swipe at the pomposity of aristocracy by naming an antiquated looking locomotive after Earls, there were howls of protest from a number of them and any use of Earl's names on future build locomotives were on the latter build Castle class.
as a physics major, it might be that the Earl's wheel have worse kinetic friction, but better static friction. This means that, once it starts wheel slipping, as in your power test, it will perform poorly, but untill the wheels start to slip it grips fairly well.
@@SamsTrains yeah, checking wheel slip is actually one of the big things that you need to be a great engine driver, because it reduces the tractive effort so much. Some quick googling of coefficients of friction indicates that the loss of traction for steel on steel in dry conditions between the wheels gripping and the wheels slipping is between 15%-40% traction loss, based on different peoples' calculations, and the variance is even higher when different metals and alloys are takin into account. Trains are sometimes completely unable to start at full power, because the bearings on all the wagons have the higher static friction, and the wheels slip, and have the lower kinetic friction, but a skilled engineer can still get the train moving by easing the regulator to maintain traction, and picking up the cars one at a time to go from static to kinetic friction in the bearings, because once the wheels start to turn, it takes less force to keep them turning than it did to get them started. This is how something like Edward's Exploit in the railway series works from a physics angle. Without his connecting rods, Edward has just as much power as before, but about half the tractive effort, so they had to use these sorts of tricks to overcome the kinetic friction and get the train moving, rather than just opening the regulator and going. This is why I've never really understood why you like seeing wheel slip in models, to me avoiding wheel slip is more interesting, and is more realistic because real engine drivers would try hard to avoid it. It is better than burning out the motor with traction tires, though, I agree that that's just cheating, and that there would be wheel slip if you just set the power up to full. Sorry for the wall of text, I just love talking about this sort of thing, but it's only worth a short comment if I don't know if someone cares.
@@bow-tiedengineer4453 Interesting however is that if wheels are allowed to slip by something like 5% of the speed, the coefficient of friction between a steel rail and steel wheel is slightly higher than the static case, so you get very slightly higher applied tractive effort. Of course on a steam locomotive, whilst this is potentially possible for a very experienced driver to achieve, there is great danger of the slip becoming uncontrolled. But with modern electrical control gear and comparing the wheels' rotational speed (measured with a conventional speedometer) and the actual locomotive speed (measured with a doppler radar) you can actually achieve that condition, and it is used in some of the freight locomotives operating in the UK. On a steam locomotive however, a prolonged uncontrolled slip can result in destructive testing of the motion rods... so is avoided at all costs. On a model I agree prolonged slipping is generally best avoided.
I remember you reviewed this locomotive a couple of years ago. I like the old fashioned look for this 4-4-0 locomotive, I didn’t expect this locomotive to be built in the 1930s, it almost looks like something that’s made in the 1890s or 1900s. I guess those people really like old fashioned 4-4-0s to bring some nostalgia back.
I tend to throw myself out the nearest window whenever the mention of Bachmann comes up. Too many of my mates and I have been burned. Watched Sam's review incredulously, but he gave it high marks and explained why. I did what I swore never to do again and bought one, international shipping fees and all. It performed just like Sam said it would, and it is wonderful in all regards. Couldn't be happier. I only buy once I have seen what Sam has to say. The man is a straight shooter and gives an exceptionally fair and balanced analysis. Sam is a rare gem, and he who fails to heed his advice is on thin ice. But hey, it's your hard earned money, spend it as you please. But keep the receipt.
I assume your house has only one level? Or are you just statistically more likely to be downstairs when you tap into the great model railway discourse? I love Sam's COVID-onward reviews, by the way. His previous interviews are fine, but you can see just how much he has improved over the years, especially with his mechanism breakdown and recap. I've watched about a dozen of his 2016-2019 reviews during the past week or two, and the improvements in this video over those ones are noticeable. I'm glad he decided to make a fresh review of this model.
Hi Sam Based on your review I took the risk and bought one. I had it from the retailer that the sound fitted version would work on my DC layout and give me sound - I just would not be able to control this. It works superbly. At about 70 on my dual Gaugemaster it gives the hissing sound of a loco at the station, a bit more and then it gives a squeal and at 80 it is away making puffing sounds. They seem a bit faster if I increase it further. The speed varies only in the 80 - 100 range and at the top is not express pace - which is fine. The Dapol chip does the same (it says in the instructions) and Rapido say their Wisebach J70 will do the same I suggest you try buying one and review it. Perhaps one of the recent awful crawlers. Love your reviews. You have really grown their comprehensive coverage of the locos and rolling stock, have consistent values to all manufacturers and really help us to know whether we should venture out with air hard earned money. All the best Martin
The reson for the same amount of the same result on a newtonmeter can be that the meter has been de-gauged as pulling the string stretches it over time, hope it explains a bit :)
Hi Sam great video: Main allocation was the Cambrian main line, it had locomotive weight restrictions (only a little over 40 tons!). In the middle of the system was the lengthy & light Barmouth wooden bridge. The weight restriction meant that these and the GWR 2251 class & the LMS Ivatt Class 2 2-6-0 were one of the few classes of locomotive that were light enough, they lasted into the 1950s due to this.
Thanks a lot Ciaran - that's certainly true - I need to develop a way of fitting a 5 pole, now I can make new fittings with the 3D printer! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I brought mine (BR black) 3,5 years ago, new, for 89.50 GBP. I usually run it with 3 Corridor Coach (BR Crimson/Cream), and i had no problem with it in the first 2 years, but I haven't opened its box since 2020 Jun. BTW the tank-like detail part goes under the tender!
i love the dukedogs and i also love how when collett named them it was a joke towards the railway directors at the time who wanted locos named after them and as for the model along with the city class easily my fav pairing of locos from the gwr
Although this reviews two years old, it is still nice to see, it's one I didn't have in the collection yet, but just bought a second hand one, even with DCC sound on board. This review was very helpful, and in general Bachmann is always that bit extra, in comparison with evierige of other brands. To be honest, most of my favorite models are mostly made by Bachmann. again thanks for the review…
In my opinion, the “Dukedogs” are certainly very interesting locomotives. I mean, a Duke class being fitted to Bulldog frames, how incredible. Also, the first one of these engines was built in 1956.
The long thin parts are the stay bars that go between the axleboxes of the driving wheels, Bachmann have designed it so you can clip it in place so you have ease of access to the the mechansim and driving wheels
I think the weight is better distributed than on the D class. That’ll be due to those heavy die cast outside frames - which are thicker and therefore heavier around the driving wheels than on the bogie end. So the majority of the weight is on the driving wheels which is what you want. Great little engine and great review. A five pole motor replacement would do wonders.
Another great review, as always. For the date these lovely engines were built, I guessed around the 1910s, but the 1930s really surprised me. Also, for once, I think I spotted the odd one out, my guess is the 2-6-0 on the turntable. (Don't know the class) I noticed basically all the others were 4-4-0s but not that one.
I picked up one 2nd hand today, 9003 in GWR green and DCC fitted, for £100. However, it lacks the tender coal load, and it seems to have had its front bogie screw and spring removed, replaced with a long thin screw. I look forward to running it, but I am aware I may need to seek a new screw and spring.
static and dynamic measurements normally differ small real world thing and yes bends and gradients is among them. im A SUCKER FOR 440'S, ONE BUILT WHEN ELEGANCE WAS A SERVICE REQUIREMENT AND THE CITY PATTERN CONNECTING RODS ARE THE CHERRY ON THE TOP
A very very decent model, I'll definitely get one if I can find one for a good price, hopefully I won't experience any motor problems. Excellent review as always Sam :D
god every single time i hear the term "duke dogs" for this engine i just cant help but think of the Thomas the tank engine episode "bulldog that has *duke* and is named a *bulldog* I SMELL SOME INSPIRATION
The dukedog's are quite fascinating, the history certainly is something to laugh at, the mechanism on this model is too... anyway great review! -TheImperialDiamondSpinosaurus
Hey Sam! I was wondering, where do you get Bachmann branch-line? I cant get it on the bachmann store, or on Amazon. I cant seem to find it anywhere, is it a uk only thing, or a hard to find us and uk thing? Best regards, nick.
It looks an awesome little loco, and mechanically should be the same as the 3400 City class (mine runs perfectly on DCC). A shame this one has an issue though. I need to get one for myself. Of course, these were superseded by the Manors on the Cambrian Coast line, which were more powerful than the halls but much lighter, and didn't have the danger to shunters of the outside frames with the rods sticking out miles from the wheels. We need more outside framed locos in 00. Like the Aberdare class 2-6-0, or the duke and bulldog 4-4-0s.
I guessed late 30 ties early 40 ties. Nice loco and i like the green livery. To bad that Bachmann has squared bearings. Keep the rewiew videos coming. 👍👍👍👍👍👍🇸🇪
Hi great review as usual. When are you going to do a review of the new Hornby dublo merchant navy elder fyeffes, would be cool to see you do a review of it especially as I’m thinking about getting one and need to know it’s any good or not. Anyway keep up the good work with the reviews.
Did you know that the double frame was steel one the outsides and oak sandwiched in-between. The oak became harder as it became older, so the frames were very strong so didn't wear out. Originally it meant that the locomotive could run with wheels on the outside for broad gauge and on the inside for standard gauge because the original engines were built at the time during the changeover of broad to standard gauge. The engines did not need to be scrapped but just converted. There are some extreme weight restricted lines on the Cambrian including the Barmouth structure. About the largest engines allowed were the GW Manor and class 4 BR standard 4-6-0. The name Earl was also tongue in cheek. A member of the GW board wanted to have an engine named after him. Charles Collett decided to call the Dukedogs Earls and gave them names, which annoyed the particular Earl who had expected something like a Castle rather than something resurrected from the 19th Century. I think the Dukedogs were replaced on the Cambrian by Ivatt class 2 2-6-0s.
Interesting Review as always. Bachmann again falling down on it's Mechanical set up..! Sam maybe confident tinkering with Motor swap ect. But I not..! So makes me nervous spending on Bachmann. But the Outer detail is great. But it has to run for that Dosh. Gr8 review Sam. Cheers all.😎
Just received one of these last week, DCC Sound Fitted. Had to send the thing back, all the sounds were present, but the loco wouldn't budge. Tried all the regular tricks (changing cv's, loco address etc) bit nothing helped. 😑 Hoping TMC can source me another one as it's a gorgeous thing.
Now that is a great looking engine. I would not mind owning one . Your review does it justice . The price is a little high and because of the rate of the pound verse the dollar it would be even higher. Keep those reviews coming.
ahh the city class dose look nice sam i would like one at the moment im trying to save up to finnish my layout which is going very slowly lol thx ben :)
The mechanism part of your videos is always my favorite! Now a days I most of the time refuse to buy locos without 5 pole motors and metal bearings. Didn’t you review the earl class a couple years ago?
Thanks a lot Dwayne - yes it's something lots of reviewers overlook... to me it's super important! Yes I did - but I decided it deserved a better quality review! Thanks for watching, Sam :)
I just got one of these in N Gauge, thought it looked quite familiar from the thumbnail! Tis a Union Mills model, full cast metal, 137g, able to pull your teeth out if given the chance and only £85, only bad side is the detail is basic but still looks the great.
I had a couple of Union Mills locos when I was doing N, and I've seen reviews of others (in the N Gauge Society newsletter) Incredibly powerful kit for the size. (One review I read was loco pulling over 40 wagons. The reviewer couldn't get it to pull any more because he'd run out track!) Sam might like to review N locos generally and Union Mills ones in particular, but is there space in his loft??
@@SeatedViper I've got the odd couple of UM models now, and have used the powered bogies for some kit builds, really good runners. Think he should (if he wants to anyway) go with just a mini layout that could sit in the middle of the room, perhaps something which can be put into a cupboard when not in use.
I suggest the reason why it has a better traction effort than the dapol is most likely due to the way that the mechanism is designed unless they have the same mechanism in which case it is a total mystery
Very fair review for the price I must say. Not sure if we agree, but the conventional pancake motor construction style Hornby / Märklin / Fleischmann are far more sophisticated and profusely top notch precisely put together. Maintaining them almost requires watch making skill though in the case of Märklin but the oldest from 1949 can still be found running (the vintage ones not crawling competent of course). But... then you pay the solid price for those types of locos (easily up to 400 Euro). However, it must be said that this motor from Bachmann - even at this price - is a really far out of date. In all, the entire package though is fair for the price. We've made our mind up though... really going for 3-rail H0, the reason being that 2-rail pickup is just way too flimsy and does require constant maintainance, and does rely too much on wiring as well. 3-Rail hardly needs rail cleaning (maybe once a year?) as long the little machines run at least weekly. The diecast chassis are heavy (up to ~900 grams), serves as ground, vintage metal couplings and modern embedded magnetic couple connectivity pass ground through, so trains hardly ever stall. Downside might be less realism, but K-Track these days is close enough.
Can someone please explain to me how the drive rod assembly of this thing works? The extra playing around the driving wheels and the way the outer rods are attached seem redundant to me (think of how Edward’s rods look). I’m just trying to figure out what purpose that kind of assembly served.
Very elegant looking locomotive. Thanks for sharing. Just a question: What's happened to the 'O'-Gauge kit - haven't seen any mention of this for ages? Al.
Thanks Alan, glad you enjoyed seeing this one again! I do still use it - there aren't as many O gauge releases as there are OO, but next time something affordable comes along, I'll be sure to cover it! :D Thanks for watching, Sam :)
Actually I just felt confused the first time I watched your Halloween video. It was 'An Unhappy Halloween' in 2017, my phone screen was so dark I don't even know what's happening, then happy music started playing. 🤣
Hi sam. A lovely model i am surprised bachmann fitted wheel bearings not a common occurance. Nice body work. Long time since i saw a really good heavy base plate. Price wise another surprise from bachmann standards.but as always there is something that lets it down. Motor is a big let down and those high voltage cables look as if they should be fitted on a pylon and not for pulling any number of coaches.
Hi Sam, When you say there are only 3 GWR 4-4-0's, I assume you mean in model form, although a 4th is mentioned further down. The 4-4-0 configuration was used quite often by William Dean and others
Would you be interested in reviewing some modern American diesel locomotives and/or cars (wagons)? I have a couple of GE dash 9s and EMD GP-38-2s and quite the assortment of freight cars as well. If you'd like more information in regard to specific models and can provide that as well. Have a great day :)
Just thought, as these are Earl Class and you have the original GWR livery, they should have come with their Earl name over the drive wheel splashers. Was their such items in the parts bag ?
Is it safe to run a loco if it starts smoking? I always thought that smoke coming from the motor means the motor is dead, since it means the motor is already damaged and is burning itself.
As usual with Bachmann, looks superb but the drivetrain is a notch behind the aspect... There is not a lot to do to have a splendid model, just add a decent five poles with a flywheel, do a better engine to tender connexion, and change the tender pickups for a classical type ones. As is, it runs correctly. Some improvement required, but the basics are here : not a extremely contrived mechanism à la DJM, proper bearings and tender pickups. An upgrade will be welcome.
I've always fancied getting one of these but the green GWR version has only been available DCC sound fitted for quite a while now and that is just too expensive.
Hey Sam I have a question for you, When servicing model locos, what do you do about stuck screws? I've been servicing some of my dad's old locos and many of them have impossible to move screws, I try to add lubricant to run down the shaft of the screw to try and loosen it, but it doesn't work all the time. Any advice? Thanks
Have you tried adding a little wd40 and letting it soak in? Then after a little while try loosening them by screwing in and out a little at a time. Works on bigger seized bolts and whatnot so see no reason why it shouldn't in the smaller sizes, just need to be a little more gentle!
@@SimJackson that's what I tried with the lubricant I mentioned. WD40 is too thick, never put it near an OO gauge loco. I used sewing machine oil and let it presumably run down the screw. I can't screw it in and out a little because it doesn't budge a nano metre. Thanks for the reply though.
my 3200 can't even pull 2 coaches without stalling or destroying the track and there's my G2A hauling 18 open wagons filled with dowels up the steepest gradient on my layout (in scale about 1 in 62) without braking a sweat or having a banker
If you ever have to replace motors, those cheap ebay motors are pretty good, I think there 5 poles, SMT mainline has a couple videos on the ebay motors
