Mark, when I was rebuilding my saw, and slowing it for Metal work, Both the parts guys at King Canada, and Busy Bee Tools told me that I don't need the roller bearing blade guides, and that the next best thing for high speed wood blades is South American Ironwood Blocks (Very hard, very oily wood.) I made a set out of Hardwood Flooring and a Vacuum Mason Jar Sealer & Mineral Oil. 3 years later they are still in use...
I have several machines that I swapped in DC motors along with a 60 amp diode bridge & run them on a variac to change speeds. Simple, cheap, effective & I've never had a problem with them. You electrical guys can berate me for what I'm doing wrong. Good job on the saw "Winky".
Great job saving a piece of history Winky. Looks great. I have converted one of these older wood saws for metal before, ended up using a reducer gearbox to get the slow speed I wanted. Looking forward to part 3!
Great video, Mark. I always love watching your projects come to life. I have an old Taiwanese 14" Wood Bandsaw that I converted to cut steel. I used a 90 degree reducing gearbox with a "C" face motor mount. The reduction ratio is 11 to 1 and that worked out just right. I used a chain drive to get from the gearbox to the Bandsaw input shaft and that eliminates belt slippage! Keep up the great videos! John
Mark, get a measurement on the length of blade, and if is to a standard of some sort, make new pins for the adjustment of top wheel. You have the room below top arm for them to extend down further. Looks really good!
With a standard blade the wheel hits the guard and there isn't enough travel to get to the next size smaller. I did find a blade for it but they are not common. I paid maybe $5 more than if I ordered a standard blade on Amazon so no problem.
It's really turning out nice. The flat belt drive will be interesting, there's no reason it shouldn't work. I had been thinking a timing belt or even a 3/8" wide v-belt that would allow you to use some small dia pulleys and thought about joining two pulleys (one small, one large) keyed on a steel keyed collar (like the shaft reducer sleeve you had) then a bushing in it, but it still needs a shaft so it might as well just be a jackshaft with two simple pillow blocks. The teeth could be turned off of some timing pulleys and crown them for the belt if there are some wide enough. Lot's of possibilities. The belts are going to look cool.
This video is a week old, I painted the slowdown and put a spacer between the uprights to make is more ridged. The bearing alignment wasn't the best without the spacer. I was worried about the belt slipping on the small pullies but now I dont think this will ever be an issue.
Hello Winky, gee this video went fast 12:55 mins long, you did a really good job restoring the band saw, nice paint job, sounds so quiet too, thanks for sharing with us viewers much appreciated. Cheers from me. 😷👍👍👍👍👍
It's hard to believe that in ninety years nobody's beat it up trying to fix it. If that is a of the shelf blade length and you don't have any tracking problems from the top wheel mount sitting on the high side run with it. Looking forward to see what you come up with for the gear reduction.
@@andyZ3500s Yeah... you can even buy a roll of bandsaw stock and make your own blade but you need a special welder. We had a bandsaw at work that had a built in welder. It worked great but there was a learning curve.
@@WinkysWorkshop I am familiar with the blade welders but I have never used one. As I remember one has to purchase 100 ' of blade. Sounds like alot but probably a lot cheaper by the foot. I wonder if there is anyone out there who sell sorter lengths. That way a homeshop guy could buy 50' of one blade and 50' of another. I have seen guys make up jigs and solder the blades but you would have to find someone who can do that type of work- lol. I am looking forward to seeing your speed reduction. Just think how many old machines that would still be around if it wasn't for the second WW. See you later Winky.
I've only changed it twice in the 40 years but the last time was 4 or 5 years ago and I used Synthetic Compressor oil. I bought it at Autozone. Looked about like 20 w to me.
Nice job. Love the looks of the old Tools! They had Style! Can you tell me the PAINT COLOR and Mfg. Where can I aquire it? Thanks ...Newk from Kentucky
@@WinkysWorkshop a similar color, the one I used for my Walker Turner drill press, Krylon Anvil Gray... also a great match for the Logan lathe original color...
@@WinkysWorkshop Thanks bunch...I'm looking for a color for my 1949 International Harvester L130 pickup Cab and bed. Love your channel! I also have a Catersct Cataract Lathe - - - to be restored, BUT need to find a Head and Chuck. If you know of any parts PLS. let me know. .....Newk from Kentucky
