Thank you so much Ironhorse...I'm a young guy that's been wondering the science on this for a while and was always of the thought how can it be faster than smooth lol you've turned me from wanting to try a mirror port to wanting to try to a golfball dimple port lol....
Great video Harvey. I always enjoy watching and learning, even though I'm not a saw builder. I'm just a saw operator. I've learned so much on how saws work from watching ur channel. Very grateful. Thank you harvey.
Sorry I'm late to the party but this kind of content is exactly what I would like to see! In depth classroom like lessons like this are the next best thing to a full on apprenticeship and I really hope you crank out all the videos you've got ideas for!
Golf balls have dipples on them for a reason .makes them fly further than smooth. It creats a thin turbulent boundary layer of air . Im guessing thats the idear behind creating turbulence in the porting
Those dimples do affect fuel air mix. The size of each dimple and the space between them or if they are close together has a effect also on how the fuel atomiz's.
Sorry for a late response. Yes it causes the fuel and air that's traveling directly straight threw the center of the port to speed up. So in making a port larger where the velocity slows down you can manipulate the speed with dimples, small ribs, with harvs roof ramps in ways of causing a turbulence that helps speed up the mix/air. The only reason one would leave it smooth is for low-end power but a chainsaw revs higher then a 350 ever thought about. Hope this helps a bit more as well.
Whoever you are, pay attention, everything I've ever done that uncle harve has taught me has worked as intended and always leads you into learning something else in the process keep it up Harvey ur the man
It's the same principle as in a flat bottom skiff when theres just a ripple on the water you will go faster because of the minor turbulence makes bubbles making an air layer between the bottom of the boat and the hard( at speed) water leaving very little friction as opposed to slick day no ripples
We rough up our intakes on our race snowmobiles. The dyno tells us it works. I own a set of STIHL Pro Mark chaps also. I love your informative videos, and the childhood stories. Keep up the great work!
Hey ironhorse ur videos are absolutely awsome I'm learning alot from u I ported a 372 and it came out ok I could have took more material out but was nervous of going to far then helped my son with a husky 61 that I gave him what a ripper that is but I have a 298xp that I would live to have u build I know there tuff to get parts for and dont want to screw it up I live in new Hampshire so I definitely get into big trees I love my 395 but would love to see that 298 teach that 95 a thing or to lol
This guy in high-school had his 455 Oldsmobile engine's heads ported and mirror polished on both intake and exhaust. Lost 40hp from the intake but his exhaust ports stayed clean
Really need to pull the butterfly and shaft on each of the OEM carbs from 365 371 372..... so on to see the the actual different size of each carbs Venturi
Hey Harvey, I've always wondered this...On a McCulloch 10 series like a Pro Mac 700 all the way down to the 10-10 there is a rubbery plastic insulator underneath the carburetor that's probably about 3/16". If you doubled that with 2 or more of those and a gasket between each "insulator" what would that do? On a Chevy small block V-8 or any car engine for that matter they say that long runner intakes make more torque and short runner intakes make more RPM and horsepower. Do you think that would be true on a 2 stroke chainsaw? I'm curious as to what you think.
Thank you Harv. So much goin on buddy. Hey Cullen great to see you also friend. Hey buddy what Boyesen reed do you recommend for a stock P51 and also is it worth trying to find a dual stage reed for the P51 stock. Thanks buddy. Love ya🌲❤🌲✊🪓
I love this argument it pops up all the time and maybe it's personal preference but I'm with you harv I love turbulence for Evan mix. Resistance is bad but turbulence is good just my view on it
Hey Harvey I can remember as a kid going in a John Deere dealership in the late 80s and seeing John Deere Chainsaws. As a matter of fact I know my uncle has a pile of John Deere saws. I'm not sure if they are rebranded other saw??
I really appreciate the effort you put into your videos! I’ve been trying to learn up so that there are some more young guys in the saw building game! Haven’t had the chance to make a RU-vid yet, but I have been showing people my work on other platforms. I’d really like to chat with you sometime if you ever get the chance!
Jonsered 2094/2095 and Husqvarna 394/395 shared piston, crankshaft, oil pump and clutch and thats about it. Cylinder and cases and other parts are different.
Hi Harvey and Cullen!!😀😀 I run the Stihl pro mark wrap chaps and have for over 20 years. I have yet to ever put a cut in any of my chaps over the years. People have to be really rough on their Stihl saws in order to break the back handles on them. I have ran Stihls most of my logging career and have never once broken a handle on one. I guess the biggest thing is not to get pinched. And if you do don't yank and pry on them. My old 044 that I had was the one with the red multifunction switch. That saw ran day in and day out for over 2 years without a problem. I think I might have put a couple new plugs in it but that was all. Best saw I ever owned. But then the 046 came out and I started cutting with them and then went to the ms460. Witch I still have 2 of them and they are my go to saws most of the time when I'm cutting firewood. Take care my friends!!😀😀 Logger Al
Hey love the content, I build motorized bikes and I’m about to start 2 hybrids. One with a ms460 w/54mm bore and a ms660 w/56mm bore and I been watching for a while but I still use your info cause they are all super similar. Just wondering where your located at, I’m in jersey. Thanks for sharing.
You can watch videos or read and the theory is unanimous. 2 or 4 stroke any platform. Any time you have fuel and air in suspension a textured finish is better than polished for induction side.
So i remember you porting a 60 cc strato saw that you were gonna run a 25 inch bar with skip tooth chain i believe. In the video you had the idea or theory of jb weld the strato port and then dumping the air down into the intake. So my question is this. Do you think dumping the strato air down into the crankcase would not mix with the fuel air and not lubricate the bottom end?
Question will aluminum make a better choice of material for saw muffler or ss? Al will suck the heat right out and kool with the block I'd think it would be th ed way to go instead of SS taking longer to heat up and staying that way longer? Keeping saw hot longer on one side instead of the same as rest of saw, aluminum
I will say the huskys got more flex built in them.thats an advantage for us cutters.I ve smashed both brands just the same..still got the 661c that skidder ran over..stihl parts just so expensive so its ridiculous.
I do have a question, I will research it but I'd like to hear your take as well.... there are higher rpm saws and lower rpm saws. Are there limitations to modifying an inherently low rpm saw into a screamer? Are you handcuffed by the bore and stroke? I know you've mentioned piston weight as a factor with the big saws🤔 Thanks Harvey
Thanks for the valuable information sr. Glad to see you doing better. Quick question about an old Mac 47 gear drive. I want to restore it. Should I put the factory bar and chain size on it or go different. As you know it is gear driven. Also have a strunk eager beaver. Will try to restore both. Any help or info would be appreciated. God bless
Those old gear drives can handle a pretty long bar. The hard part will be finding a different sprocket size to get down to a modern sized chain like .404. I'm guessing that's 1/2" chain or even bigger. You probably would have to modify a large mount Stihl bar D025 or large mount Husqvarna bar D009. You have to get the bar to oil good and slide enough in the adjuster slot forward and backward enough.
My dad has a P 42 pioneer and it starts and runs great for about an hour and hour and a half after I’m done with about the fifth huge cottonwood tree it’s hard to start I haven’t told my father yet Sergeant Major Gamsby and I was hoping you could tell me where I might get a piston and cylinder because I think I ran it to lean not a mechanic my dad is but I am not let me know please he loves watching you all the time I just hope he doesn’t read this he uses my RU-vid
turbulent flow is fairly flat across the center section of a orifice. So when dose reads come into play or what happens to the turbulent flow once it hits the case?
Hey Iron horse I know this video is 7 months old and I hope you see my comment. I'm having issues with my 372 xtorq I switched over to xp. I just recently put a xp carb on it because the xtorq carb was not working at all. I just ran it again today and it over heated. I have replaced everything. Even the crank and bearings seals you name it. This has been happening since I got the saw runs great without the bar and chain but once I put a bar on it and make a couple cuts it over heats. This is not the first saw I have rebuilt but I am still very new at it. Any advice?
Also I have left my transfers and intake rough which is why I have been watching this video because I have been told leaving them rough is bad and I have to polish them. And here you are saying to leave them rough so thats what I'm gonna do I have been watching your videos for a while and really like how your saws run and that is my goal with my 372. Does the heat shield behind the muffler have to be there or can I leave it out because it is leaking for sure I can see the oil mess on the jug.
