No sooner did I sit down and get on RU-vid to try and find some quality content then I get an Ironhorse video notification. It's nice when things just come together like that
Thank you for the shout out I love watching your vids an I keep an open mind an im always learnig an trying different things I share the good results to try an help others out the saw community is an awesome place
It is scary how much information i got from all your videos. Since i watch your channel i understand my saws better and i can run them better...thank you for sharing all your knowledge with us. Greetings from a german saw guy and logger!
You pack so much info into 30mins. It's amazing. I cant tell you how many times I've watched this video, and I learn something every damn time. THANK YOU FOR PUTTING THIS INFO OUT!
Thanks Harvey, always look forward to your videos. I'd be very interested to see what you do with some smaller displacement saws. Thats the bulk of what i work on where i am. I'm loving the livestreams, great way to pass the time during these cold winter days.
Harvey you couldn't have been more timely with this information! I've been on the fence on how to proceed with a build I have going and this was the nudge I needed!
Great video! On my Pro Mac 610 intake I only ground in the circle and left the wide wing portions alone. I “finished” the timing number by using the intake skirt scallop mentioned in the video and I am happy with the results. The JB weld to narrow the intake is brilliant.
Thank you for the tremendous wealth of info you have shared with all of us!! I am a firewood cutter. Really looking forward to the future videos on smaller saws!!!!
Always to the point my friend! It's great to see so many of your processes and theories being utilized. Good luck everyone with your projects. Take care Harvey.
I mostly just like your videos been watching for a good little bit and never really comment, but I just wanted to thank you for all that you've taught me threw your videos and the understanding as well, you don't get enough credit for all your experience, - Mike from ky
Just discovered this channel a couple days ago. I really enjoy watching you. I'm 43 years old and just now getting in to saws. I've been a tinkerer my entire life but just now learning about saws. Just bought some property and firewood will be a bigger part of my life now. I have a 50cc saw and was glad to hear you mentioning (at end of this video) that you would be getting into some 50cc saws in upcoming videos. I'm going to have to look for those videos. Thank You
Did little porting about 30 years ago on my old CRs and YZs and a few chainsaw years ago . Just getting back in to it was on Dyalisis for 7 years and got a kidney in 2021 now Chainsaw have became a passion for me. Your videos have been very very helpful in getting me back into it.
Amazing info Harv. Truly appreciate you sharing. So a longer intake (carb further away from cylinder) the longer that air/fuel takes to get into jug ?? Tnx again and keep these porting tips coming !!
Thanks for all the info over the last while watching your videos, I was curious if sometime you could talk about a cutting saw vs a milling saw. You said you would hold a saw back a bit for firewood cutting, but where would you do thing different for a saw for milling? Thanks again
Thanks for info tbh it’s a ton of information that your giving up in this and all your other videos and it’s hard to follow, not cause you don’t make sense or anything but just cause it’s so much good information. You have such a vast amount to offer us I’m just doin my best to keep up. Now I don’t build saws but I do build motorized bicycles and they are very similar but my two most recent builds are goin to be a yd100 case (standard bike motor) and a ms460 54mm bore and the other will be a ms660 56mm bore. These are called Frankenstein motors and it’s what I have always wanted to build since I got into this hobby. So I’m just tryin to find a few things out about porting the jugs cause I never tried porting a saw cylinder before, but the crank cases are larger then a stock saw case and that’s making me think I’ll need more air to get in the case to operate well so that’s what made me watch this cause the charge starts with the intake. Anyway thanks for all the information.
Just found out about your channel and I want to thank you for your teaching about porting, I have to change bearings and seals on my o31 and I want to port it also, do you think it would be worth the time, I had not ever heard of porting until I found your channel,
Those Old MAC's saws, They are sweet and powerful. I run a poulan, and love the idle of my old Stihl. (- Thanks so much for sharing! Porting is absolutely, engineering in airflow. (=
Well I was in church the other day with Mom. Mom's 85 years old. She leaned over to me and said I just passed gas thank goodness it was silent. I just looked at her and said will check your batteries in your hearing aid when we get home Mom.
Harv.. you can swap the RWJ-4 carb from a 372xp X-Torq onto a 394 you just need to either do an external impulse or do like I did and that’s drill out an impulse hole in the carb body so you can keep it all stock looking. It’s got a larger Venturi and flow more than enough fuel. Try it sometime.. Thanks for the videos and keep up the good work. Also looking forward to you running a saw on Joes dyno.
Color me inspired. What id love to see is some recommendations on the first saw someone should try porting on their own. Are the clone saws a good place to start? What parts should you have on hand to replace when you put it back together? For base gasket delete what sealant do you like to use?
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! I'd still like to hear what you have to say about transfers though, specifically the flow pattern of the primary and secondary transfers. Where they are aimed, which is which, and which one opens first. Again, thanks for teaching us what you know.
Oh my God, I have just listened to the most switched on guy I have ever listened to, he knows the true meaning of tuning, not just more hp is best, but the most suited hp for the job. This is true experience, watch and listen before its gone. Subbed on this video alone. Thanks for the knowledge hope I can use it.
I would love to see a common newer 70plus cc saw chosen. Then next year any builders or saw porters who want to participate. Send their best work to the saw dyno, on Dyno Joe channel, for some friendly bragging rights!🤠
A lot to unpack there. Harvey I have been re watching your series on Bens P62. I noticed it didn't have the updated piston in it which has more cut out in the sides. Then you talked about if you could find a junk p62 you would like to bore it. Is it possible to use a BB395 or 070 piston and machine the piston down to 57mm? It would give a longer skirt and a lighter piston. Just asking because I have a P62 that has some piston scuff but I think the bore Is okay. Cheers
I started writing a comment explaining that you pretty much end up at the numbers you were suggesting just by a simple squish and base cut but that then I needed to explain the rest of my setup and I would have ended up at a full page essay. Instead I'll just say do what Iron horse said it lines up with what has worked for me. I have just started CNC machining cylinder heads for the 372 which has given me the freedom to setup all my ports exactly as I want with exactly the compression ratio I want. I have torture tested my proto type this week on a 32 inch bar on a 52mm Hyway. The test went extremely well. No over heating at all and the power was better than any I had done before. Sadly the Hyway chrome or whatever the hell it is lifted randomly in the compression zone. I really hate those kits! I have just re found a cylinder I used to use that were very good and ordered 2 of them with Nikasil. The saw cleaned up my 592 on top easily and made similar torque. This is starting to be fun. Ported 76cc saws can make some seriously good power that is very usable. I don't know why some guys refuse to try a ported saw they are so much better.
Haven't ever ported a saw before. I'm going to start with my puny homelites that have served me well. People can laugh but I've run three of these things hard and cut far larger wood than they were intended for. But what these tiny things did the best was help clear brush and get down in the dirty stuff where I did not want to put my Stihl MS261. They still run after sitting for years. Definitely need new carbs but still run. When fence rows get overgrown you need a saw that your not afraid to tear up.
You have talked about a notch in the piston skirt on the intake side. Is it beneficial to most saws? If so what are some guidelines on size and depth of the notch.
I use air Harvey real light air in transfers you can feel how the air coming out.... Awesome.... Water works good . I agree on intake alot of people try going to large intake and makes them lazy
Hey Harvy I have a 372xp with a big bore popup kit that I did a mild port job on and I'm thinking of doing a base gasket delete on this is my squish with the gasket 0.0480 would there be enough room to delete the gasket and would I notice a difference?
I've recently seen a better way to check transfer direction, turn the cyl upside down on a bench and point a blowtorch down them for a second or so. Check out a vid by AutoBeta2T I used to do the water trick on motorcycle cyls back in the day and it did work, , , up to a point, part of the problem with it is that the water itself obscures the view sometimes and also water is heavy meaning it starts dropping away as soon as it comes out the port window, the flame has neither of those drawbacks.
To each his own but a 371xp is in my opinion about a perfect firewood saw as well as a great logging saw. Logging you need enough power to get the job done without splinter pulling but you're only making a few cuts. With firewood you're making many cuts, and I want to get the job done and go home. A 394/395xp to go with the 371xp would be ideal. However it does depend on what you are cutting for firewood.
I just got a 029 super and my brother told me I should have gotten a 028 wood boss. Is the 029 super a good wood saw I have a 038av it’s a great wood saw.
Hello Harvey this came just in time I should have all my 372 parts in next week for my first build of my own ...we'll see how many eggs it takes me to break lol that's ok I know a guy if I run into problems 🤣🤣🤣🤣
"Be honest with yourself about what your saw is actually doing." Amen. Brother. I have heard and seen some jaw flapping out there... the proof is in the chips... not the lips. Your saws run like bats out of hell and everyone knows it. Always good to see you, Harvey.
Two strokes are so simple to understand, but people have such a hard time with them now that everything is a 4 stroke. The fuel/air going into the bottom of the crankcase, completely escapes them.
Well I will be lying if I did not say that Harvey didn’t inspire me to take a dremel to a cylinder the first time. I don’t try to go nuts but I also like something a little warmer than stock for cutting firewood. I don’t like a saw that seems to always be in a bind. I like to work my tools instead of them working me.
Friend, good morning! From Brazil. I have a big problem with a Chinese Thorq 62cc chainsaw. I tried to start it and when I pulled the starter cord it was very hard. I removed the spark plug and it turned the engine free when I pulled the string, but if I put my finger in the hole where the spark plug goes, the piston is completely locked as if it were vacuum or excess compression. Do you have any idea what it could be? I disassembled it and the connecting rod, crankshaft and bearing, piston rings are good. The piston had carbonization on the top but I cleaned it and also decarbonized the cylinder. I can't find the new cylinder and piston for it, as they are 48mm in diameter. I only found 43mm and 45mm for sale. When I assembled it, I still had the same problem, as if it were a hydraulic wedge, an excess of compression that doesn't allow the piston to descend or ascend freely. Can you give me any tips on what is causing the problem?
I’ve learned more useful information from this channel in the last 12 months than all the books I’ve read on 2 stroke theory in the last two years. It’s gotten to the point now that I jot notes in my porting numbers book while I watch your videos.Concise, clear and useful as always. Cheers Harvey 👍🏻
Great content always has been learned so incredibly much from you uncle harve, I for 1 ain't gonna question any of ur methods because every one over tried has worked, love ya buddy
So if I did a base gasket delete and dropped my cylinder .020, do I raise the exhaust roof .020 or take the .020 off the intake piston skirt to keep my numbers?
One of the FIRST things you need to learn is to sharpen a chain with proper depth gauge height. You can have the hottest saw around but without a sharp chain it’s useless. A modified saw will not tolerate a dull chain as much as a stock saw because of the extra heat (btu)s generated.
First off, I'd like to know how to get ahold of you. Email, phone number, something. Secondly I want to comment on something you brought up on an earlier video regarding Hyway cylinders. I recently encountered a BAD one. I came from someone we all know. I won't mention the name cause I have no way of knowing if he's to blame. I don't want to think so. The casting was crapp, the piston basically unusable do to incorrect sizing. I had another piston to use so commenced with the porting. Hay, you said you never seen the plating flake. OMG!! No matter what I did I couldn't keep it from flaking. I've never had this happen before! So I kept chasing it, figuring at this point that this was an experiment. I think it junk bud I wanted to try it anyway. I fear the intake side is ruined. I had to cut the floor way to low. So thirdly, my question to you is, is there anything that can be done to compensate that? Oh, this a stihl ms 440 big bore by the way. And please let me know of how I can get in touch with you directly. Thank you for your time and sharing your knowledge.!
