Catching up on past videos. Thank you for saying a very good truth at the end of the video. Perfection in the work product is great, but more important is the happiness we feel in doing something we enjoy. Sharing my mistakes on my channel is part of the process. I am just a mechanic learning to machine... LOL. All the best!
Hello Rustinox, I just discovered your videos. Please keep producing . I am knew to machining and your videos are great to learn some of the basics. From Southern California, USA
I took the easy way out and bought both clamping sets, including the T-nuts. The set for the rotary table fits the shaper but the length of the clamping studs was wrong so some cut lengths of threaded rod were needed. I might still take your lead and make a few special T-nuts for the vise anyway to help it fit better.
Every day is empty Wallet day in the workshop 🤔🤔🤔. Excellent tutorial on single point tools and shaping. Thanks for sharing and best regards from the UK.
Thank you for another interesting and helpful video. Using one tool for roughing out both ways is a neat idea. I had been considering shaper tools as the same effectively as lathe tools and essentially they are similar but as you demonstrate there are differences. I do have a book on lathe and shaper tools (No need to feel jealous) as it has less specifics than you supply in your videos. so thank you very much. I have only done two jobs on my shaper thus far as the machine itself is a work in progress. I have stripped and cleaned it and adjusted the gibs then re-assembled it but it has no feed mechanism or micrometer dials. I have been making a dial for the vertical feedscrew using a design for the Myford ML7 by George Thomas but realised that he had left insufficient room for the digits so I have re-drawn and commenced a second iteration. A new pivot dovetail assembly was turned and milled and awaits having the dovetails cut on the shaper but I would like to make a better job of it and have ordered more steel. Thank you for informing us that you are Belgian, I was wondering. In another video you commented that someone was ribbing you about your accent but as it is common for many mainland Europeans to speak several languages whilst many of the Anglophiles such as i seem to struggle with one language I think that you may content yourself with a presumed position of superiority. With regard to your grinding rest it may pay you to have a look at the grinding rest designed by Harold Hall which having doetails would be a good shaper project. It was the single most popular design in the Model Engineers Workshop magazine to date and has many accessories for grinding drill bits and mills etc. Thank you again. You have been most helpful in expanding my knowledge of the shaping machine.
Thanks for your imput, Jack. Always interesting. BTW, never be afraid to ask questions. Out there in the RU-vid world there are tons of people who are willing to help.
Love the intro....and making T nuts without a vise brilliant. I agree making the T nuts must be a bit slack of fit in the T slots. There a pain in the neck if they are too tight and get stuck. Great tool set up instruction. Tony
Hahahaha oh my. You have wonderful humor my friend. Excellent video. Great information and keep up the great work. Always looking forward to your videos. Best Belgium dude on youtube !!!!
Thank you Michael. When I make T nuts I upset the bottom threads so the stud doesn’t go right through which can jack up the T nut breaking away the top of the cast iron table. Take care.
Again a nice video. Regarding the carbide inserts: I haven't tried it on my shaper as well, but all the information I have heard and read about it, say that you need to lift of the tool on the back stroke ot otherwise the tip will break an the edge of the workpiece.
@@Rustinox You could/have to use higher cutting speeds, which is not possible on most shapers I know (unless you have a very short stroke). You have to use different grinding wheels (SiC, CBN or Diamonds) instead of Corund, which are commonly not available in the home work shop (at least, I don't have either of them at hand). Both arguments speak against carbide on the shaper. If you are in a hurry, the shaper isn't the best choice.
@@Rustinox Hi, i find that you are entertaining. i just bought a douglas shaper. i have turning 1, and i think i am naturally mechanically minded. i too have to start from the beginning . i have learned a lot from you becase i bought the exact same shaper as you have. thank you for helping me . i think you should case harden the t nuts and just clean your slots. maybe get some compressed air, or just make a purpose built wire brush with a long handle . Thankyou again.
I am really envious of those German made clamps! I think Stefan uses those when he can't verk on his wise? LOL (Love Stefan and seen everything he has done )
I just wanted to say, very nice channel! And some great videos about the AI hembrug shaper! Do you know the difference between the AI shaper with the rectangular bed and the triangular bed?
Keep'm coming! Tried carbide inserts in my shaper with no luck, broke really quickly. Had a lot of luck with braised carbide tooling though. Don't know if you watched my table feed vid ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-syErq8MUDbM.html The cast iron had a large chilled area part ways down which a high spped steel tool wouldn't touch, swapped to a braised carbide an it didn't even notice the change of hardness as it worked down. One cut down trued the face up perfectly using my slowest stroke and finest feed, reasonable finish as well. As you can see there's plenty of holes in the piece giving an interupted cut, gave me no problems at all. Colin
Indeed i watched your video but i didn't see it was a carbide tipped tool. Of course, after making this video, i couldn't resist to try an insert tool on my shaper. I held down the clapper with rubber bands, with great results. The machine set on 100 strokes/min, it made really nice curly chips. I will show this in an upcoming video.
