Please Support My Channel Here www.paypal.com/donate/?token=N8Io8RwMds6uRTX63XdqUJmlZjgeCXbExAxLXlmoiossW6UnaMYrvNBlZIMLWWQPmA22IG&country.x=US&locale.x=US
Guess he should've watched your videos before he started. Just like i did! And because i watched your videos i have a fantastic shower, leak free for 2.5 yrs so far. Thanks again!!! Thanks for all your tutelage.
As a tile guy of over 20 years, everything pointed out in this video is correct. These are all serious issues that can lead to very expensive and even dangerous consequences if not done correctly. But don't hate on the man for new spacers lol I just had to get a few new bags myself.
I first off want to thank you for your videos. I am a "DIY'er" but I had enough common sense to do my research before I even though about taking on my own shower. I'll say I watched a ton of your videos and I feel it really helped me with the success of my project. Thanks again. If it would've let me, I'd have uploaded a pic for you to critique... 😉
I’m not cheap so I do buy new spacers for most jobs it’s just nice to use new spaces that are not covered in thin set or have been stepped on . Use bricks for a shower curb and leave and inch for tile,liner,dura rock and tile.
Most of the comments I see in here are pointing directly to the bad installers but a lot of these situations are created because customers don't want to pay the real cost of doing a shower and they choose to hire whoever is cheaper...I've been doing tile for over 18 yrs and is always the same situation :I give the estimate to the customer and they call me later and said: I'm sorry but we have to hire someone else because you price is too high so sometimes they get what they paid for....
Regardless of the price that was given to the customer by any contractor. If the contractor said that they would do the job it should have been done correctly. Research, experience, and honesty go a long way.
I agree with you to a point. When they request half down, that's a big red flag. Many contractors lack the proper training. They did not go through apprenticeship.
Guys only half right, I always tape and actually mortar my corners then redgaurd then tile and my corners are sealed and perfect 9os with a square every installation
I don't know where you live, so I'm not saying you are wrong. Because different places, different rules. Some places you don't want to mud the corners, you leave 1/8th gap, to allow for shifting and stress. The red guard is flexible, and allows for movement. If the gap is filled it will pop stuff. But like I said, different rules, not saying you are wrong.
Haha, great video. Back in the day, I told my business school prof that the program needed examples of failed businesses and analysis of why and how they failed along with successes. Good to see you helping people out like this.
Acryl-Pro is mastic. Custom Building even says "Sometimes referred to as a mastic" in their promo video about it on their channel. Premixed thinset is just mastic with sand in it to give it more body. Mastic is weird stuff, I personally love it for backsplashes. One crazy Jamaica style thing I personally did was put 2x2' mosaics that were a dollar a sheet on clearance up on plywood OUTDOORS above my mailbox as the tile cost less than new lattice would. I had leftover Mapei mastic from a backsplash and grout, I waited 3 days for the mastic to set up fully, and grouted it, and it's survived at least one winter so far with no cracked grout (except I grouted the perimeter, so that cracked...) or loose tiles. The problem with mastic is it needs time to dry, and people using it are using it mainly to save time using thinset and cut a corner. People tend to grout it right away, and try to get their showers in service right away, when you need a longer cure time than thinset. Of course once you get to 12x12' or so tiles it becomes basically impossible for it to ever dry under the tile. The other problem with mastic is mastic isn't compatible with Redgard, and Mapei's isn't compatible with Aquadefense. I think Tec makes the only mastic compatible with their own waterproofer. Some type of chemical reaction occurs. With Wonderboard, btw, it's designed with the "tape" side being smooth for mastic application using it with plastic behind it, and the rough side with no tape for thinset.
I used mastic to do my own shower, using 16" porcelain. (Didn't know any better.) Don't remember why I had to pull a tile, but, no, it doesn't dry for a looong time. Don't think I grouted for two weeks or so. And I never got around to sealing it.But the shower is still in daily use over ten years later. Back then we had 7 people using the shower. Still have 3 people using it. I really don't understand why so many shower projects fail. I also used 12" porcelain directly on top of formica countertop using modified thinset. Also takes a long time to dry. Also worked perfectly fine.
I don’t get your comment at all! Mastic for setting time? Gluing tile down? Why not do a job right and do it once. If you have anything leftover after you finish a job throw it away, don’t save for another job. Tile needs to be set with thin set and thin set alone. Then grouped with a hood grout such as Custom Prism or Fusion Pro. That’s all of course after waterproofing. Schluter-Kerri shower pan and membrane will get you a good seal all the way around. Staying with one manufacturers solution vs mixing manufacturers is a safe game plan.
If I were to bid a job like this I would do everything that needed to be done in that area plumbing,Sheetrock,and framing if need be , and tile ,that way you don’t have someone that thinks they’re helping you out but in fact are creating more work for you .I need to know that everything is done right .everything needs to happen in stages . As for the spacers I always keep every size in stock and according to the size of the job you may need to purchase a bag or two more,and I am positive that one bag of spacers is not going to be enough to do the tile with . I have subbed a lot of work out over the years and I usually can tell if someone knows what they are doing within 15 minutes of talking with them. No disrespect to anyone that reads this but I have never had to go back and fix a mess up from a sub . I take pride in what I do and everyone that has worked for or does work for me I hold them to that level also.
Redguard has a tendency to crack, especially with temperature swings. Seen it several times on showers against outside walls. Fiberglass fabric is really cheap, and I feel is a must for reinforcing the waterproofing membrane on all inside corners. Just my 2 cents we aren't all in georgia
Redguard cracks in thin and in heaven application, the fiber mesh and redguard is a good combo to strengthen the seal in the seams. Or we can use a higher quality moisture barrier.
Yeah, I'm having my shower done now and I asked the guy why he didn't use redguard and he said it doesn't do well in TN and plus I was on an outside wall. I sàidvi saw it on RU-vid and he laughed 😂. But he does have buckets of old used spacers lol.
Red guard fails it takes three coats to achieve a water proof surface, membrane is much better. I start off with water proof materials not cement board. Yes it’s been used for ever but them days have passed to go board or kirti board with water proof banding
Good morning brother. I'm sure that people who do tile and make these mistakes appreciate that you bring to their attention the mistakes they made. I remodel homes, I've been in the construction industry for most of my life, I was a journeyman taper in the Union. My knowledge comes from working for companies, and making my mistakes. I know that my jobs are done professionally because I learned over the years the do's and the don'ts. I still use Hardie backer and wonderboard, but I'm gearing towards Schluter Kerri Board, Laticrete Hydro Ban Board, Ditra, just to name a few. Thank you brother for your videos keep up the good work.
This is already an older video and I've watched it again ..... you give soooo much in each and every video and been glad to be a subscriber. Hope your week is going perfectly and thanks for this glorious channel.
I'm doing my 3rd bathroom while wall tile and everything. My first tiled floor pan an curb. It's easier with a pre fab floor pan but I'm taking all this advice to heart with the knowledge I have now. Thanks buddy. I won't do what you said not to do lol.
I think the main point is, yes, as someone who does this work I could argue every individual issue he is pointing out to some degree. I use lots of different spacers some I have large amounts of some I do buy for each job, he could easily just have yet to screw and add a layer of ply on the floor, noone knows if that's all his materials or some if what he dropped off from the job before or if the mastic was in case he was to do wall tile outside the shower, etc..... Its not any one thing but the proliferation of common enough mistakes yet to happen.
It's very entertaining to me that everybody chimes in on the fact that he bought new spacers, but it doesn't matter that he put his wallboard up prior to his pan, doesn't matter that he was using pressure treated wood for his curb, doesn't matter that he tried using pre-mixed thinset for his tile, that drain was off center, that he used 20 sharkbites inside the walls, much bigger issues than the spacers.... But if you are not cleaning all of your stuff on a regular basis like your levels, your wet saw, and your spacers man you're wasting money to begin with
@@StarrTile Yeah, you're right. There are other issues that far exceed the spacer issue but the fact that you are bashing him for spacers is ridiculous. They are so cheap. I never re-use them. Been doing tile, stone, granite and marble for about 22 years and I've always been ok with spending a couple bucks on spacers. I don't even charge the home owner for them lol. Also, the pre mix thin set and mesh tape are for the seams on the wonder board. Then, after it drys, you red guard... I dont buy the pre mix thin set but I literally just did a job where the contractor bought it for me to tape and mud the seams. I get that this guy has made some bad mistakes but why point out the petty stuff that you are wrong about? Lol. Also, the mud guard issue is dumb too. I imagine he knew and would have handled that before he laid the tile. There are so many things that you are bashing him for that arent wrong. They just aren't the way you do it... At the end of the day, you are a hating ass dude lol.
@@StarrTile oh btw, you said yourself that the tile guy didnt do the duroc but you are bashing him for it and the fact that he didnt put the pan down? Right... Same with the creaking floor. How do you know he didnt plan on fixing that? There are a lot of things that you are dead ass wrong for. I can tell that you are knowledgeable. You probably do great work. But, maybe you shouldnt be so fast to critic someone until you have fully assessed the situation. I've been guilty of that in the past too but you are trying to make videos on it, that people that have no experience are taking your word on. Maybe you should look at the job, write some stuff down and think about it or sleep on it, then come back the next day and do your video. That way you arent so quick to persecute.
Let's just suppose for a few minutes that my channel is focused on teaching tile, that I go through the jobs I end up on Forensically to discuss the do's and don'ts of how to do certain things... and let's suppose that the discussion in the comments has to do with both amateurs and professionals, people like ourselves that do this stuff for a living everyday, and that my critique of Joe Blow tile guy has to do with what I would do or the expectations of a another contractor would do in the same situation.... then both of your comments would probably be valid and you would probably have some points to make. However..... None of what I just said is true, my channel is in no way geared toward other contractors whether they are just starting out or have Decades of experience, that people chime in on their opinion about my videos is a bit irrelevant to me. My presence on RU-vid was predicated by job I did 10 years ago where the woman had spent $20,000 renovating her bathroom over the course of six weeks with three different Crews from the same company. That was my first video and the critique that I did on that video is valid information for homeowners like the one I worked for who had no clue about how things should go or what materials to be used. Going forward from 2010 I still do these type of videos for ignorant homeowners who don't have a clue, that way they have some insight on the things that either can go wrong or have gone wrong, it is information that has saved hundreds of thousands of dollars through the last 10 years for those homeowners who have contacted me as the one in the video did prior to things going south. When this lady contacted me things were already messed up, including some of the plumbing issues which I enumerated on the video, that led her to believe that she was getting ready to get shafted based on watching my videos. Simple but yet important things like the toilet supply being on the wrong side of the toilet flange, the fact there were 20 shark bites used to connect all the pipes, the shower drain being off center, etc etc... even to the point you made about the sheetrock guy hanging the wallboard in the shower, if I'm responsible for the entirety of the shower then I'm going to do the wallboard and if somebody else did then I'm going to give it a pass or fail, the fact that he did not oppose how it was done tells me all I needed to know. Already warped pressure-treated 2x4's was really enough info. This lady contacted me feeling it wasn't starting out good, and she was right, despite the fact everybody chimes in on the new spacers 😂
I used that acrylpro adhesive on a small floor, shower , and then on bathtub surround. This is in arizona, very dry climate and it was before I found your channel. So far, it's held up for 3 years. No loose tiles. I however was "fixing" some handyman's work, that my mom had hired. Anyway, after learning more, I realized I made a few mistakes, but my mom doesn't have the money to fix it right. Slab on grade, and was a drop in shower pan, so no mud needed for the floor. Hopefully it lasts for her.
I worked for a contractor who would have us lay only 1 coat of AquaDefense because “it is expensive.” I worked for a different contractor who had the contract for the county’s Housing Authority. They decided to have the showers in 14 duplexes, 28 showers, upgraded to tile. He purposely used unmodified masonry to tile a few of the showers because he knew that they would eventually fail and they would have to pay him to fix them.
In ny, on slabs we put one layer of pressure treated down first and then the other two pieces are regular. Like when framing a basement, pt as bottom plate. But yeah makes no sense for upstairs at sll
Its' interesting you pointed out "redgard doesn't need tape, that its redundant". Redgard is a crack prevention membrane but it's a system that does require tape, other wise why would they tell you to use it. Redgard even has their own brand of mesh tape specifically for joints and corners..
You're most likely correct, however I don't follow the rules, if there's no problem then there's no solution.. But I would challenge you to paint two or three coats of redgard on a surface, peel it up, stretch it, then stretch some tape and see which one gives the most... I already know the answer but you can test it yourself. And when I say that I don't use tape because it's redundant I don't advocate that other people don't, if you wanted use tape and redgard then go for it.
@@StarrTile fair enough. I'd rather follow manufacturer's recommendations in hopes the warranty covers any fault in the system.. 🤷🏼♂️ I like your content though! Cheers mate!
@@StarrTile on a side note do you think a slurry coat is needed over a concrete slab when doing dry pack? I mean why does it need to be binded that well when it's allowed to float over water proofing membranes..? I used a sealer on the concrete slab first.. think it should be fine.
I don't do drypack on slabs unless it's a curbless shower on a slab, and then yes, a slurry of thinset 1st and mortar that is wetter than a drypack. To your question, concrete absorbs moisture out of your mortar whereas none is absorbed with a liner...so adhesion of the mortar isn't guaranteed or consistent to the slab especially if you mix your mortar without enough water.
@@adnanlimited most tile guys carry plenty of old spacers in their trucks/vans. Same with thinset and other materials. Also sometimes you’ll bring materials day to day based on your setting goal. Just bc he’s light on material doesn’t mean anything. The fact he’s using those shitty spacers says more than anything about his experience
Wowww!!! You are saving so many future from future disasters; please keep on doing what you're doing!! I truly learn as much or MORE in videos of 'work done wrong' than in the usual 'how to install' videos... Thank you!!
The role of tape is for the corners an seams. Red guard an other roll on waterproofing have a tendency to leave pinholes even with multiple coats. The roll stops that from happening. The mastic is fine to use in showers as long as the tile that's being used needs no larger that a 1/4 notch for its application any larger and it will not dry. You should never use mastic on a shower floor or curb. In that case you are correct it will never dry out completely an you will definitely have tile adhesion failure. Like the vids.
I'm just out here looking for videos about how to handle a shower wall that is crumbling, dropping tiles and has mold. But I watched and enjoyed this entire video even though I will never be doing these things.
I finished a job that looked like this when I got there. I removed the lower piece of wallboard, before starting. I’d love to see you show the process in full, instead of drawing assumptions before the tile installer even mixed a bag of mud. Looks like the prep was not done...yet, by the installer.
Except this guy wasn't mixing anything...He was using a pre-mixed tile adhesive which is completely different from mortar. Why would you buy mortar and tile adhesive? Because you don't know what you are doing...
@@shittyopinions Never heard of Acrylpro, but data sheet is saying it's made specifically for tub surround and shower walls. So seems like his plan was the bag of thinset for floor tile and Acrylpro for wall tile. This doesn't sound like a crazy plan yet, maybe not what I'd choose but not like he picked out joint compound or anything. It does say not to use over non-porous surfaces, so curious what the Acrylpro + RedGard plan was going to be...
@@shittyopinions Yeah, I've never used it but I personally wouldn't choose it for a shower - even if just talking walls. Point was the item wasn't a crazy choice itself; if he's Redgarding the walls fully (probable based on glimpsing supplies) and then using the adhesive directly on top it's going to be problematic... but those are all guesses.
No, you're not negative. Showing the pitfalls and mistakes are excellent. I once heard a tile guy say the tile covers mistakes. He was immediately off my big job. The guy I had do it, some 28 years ago said the substrate must be solid and he will not lay a tile on plywood as one guy said it would save money. I have done several smaller tile projects myself. I have done shower pans, bath floors. Everything begins with the rough in work being solid and centered. I was hired help on a roof job last year. (I'm retired, small jobs are okay)The guy I worked with cut corners and said it won't matter. It's in a senior development and he said she will be gone before they notice. He justified a crap build by saying that's what the customer wanted. I said no to a tub install when the owner wanted a lot of cut corners to save money. I believe the owner in this video wanted cheap, so they got cheap.
I love to learn how to do things and really appreciate people like you who take the time and effort to explain things. That said, if you use stationary a tripod for your camera your videos would improve greatly and be less dizzying to watch. Also, as some have suggested a little less chatting and more of just getting to the point. The intro can be cut to a few seconds. A good ten minutes or more could be cut from this video and it would still be great.
Unfortunately, I get about 40 to 50 thousand views daily across my channel. I cannot possibly know people's knowledge or lack thereof. So I go into more detail than probably is necessary.
i wish you had said something regarding stud prep, the correct screws for cement board, length and style. Fur strips are not meant to hold cement board but to plum a wall and longer screws may be needed to reach the stud. Thanks for taking the time for this video
Maybe its cuz I'm a few beers in on a Friday, but the handheld POV is dizzying. Please get a tripod! I watched till the end. You can definitely talk into the camera.
I feel for the customer here. What I am actually hearing you say is this is going to add $$$, oh my God this will cost even more now & oh my goodness the terrible prep means I have to charge even more. Ou de like you’re the best tile guy in America. Just ask you, you will tell us....
//...ITS GREAT TO SEE A PROPER TRADESMEN THATS KNOWS HIS TRADE....IM A LICENSED TRADESMENS IN ANOTHER TRADE...BUT I CAN SEE WHAT A MESS THIS JOB IS.... I HAD AN UNCLE THAT WAS A STONE MASON AND BUILDER....AND HE HAD A WAITING LIST OF CUSTOMERS FOR HIS WORK .....BECAUSE HE DID THE JOB PROPERLY !!
This brings back memories to an old job I was going to do for a so called friend. He wanted me to do tile work for his company. First day on the job I arrive to the shower thinking that i was going to be doing all the work to it.. but he had his drywall guys do all the backer board and 2 niche areas for the shower because they were cheaper and faster... they used nothing but drywall mud and mesh tape to cover the seams and corners.. including the niche areas. They literally got done mudding the walls when i arrived(mud still very much wet) and my so called friend said it was ready to go for tile work and that i can start right away. I was baffled by what his workers did to the shower. Told him that there was no way in hell that i was going to shower that bathroom. Of course he was pissed cause he didnt see anything wrong with it. I spent the next hr explaining why thats not right and that all that work is going to have to get torn down and redone the right way.. I decided to take a walk around the house to see what else was done wrong to it.. I noticed some very sketchy work with plumbing and electrical that was being done to it. I ended up going to the town and bringing it up and the town took care of it. That so called friend and I never spoke afterwards. The sad part is that i have a few friends that are still Friends with him and he still works in construction and is still doing shitty work on people's houses.. I hope his company gets shut down some day.
Thanks for your great insights! I always put ice and water grace down to the rubber pan behind all duro rock, especially when I do several benches and shelves in the shower. The screws for the duro rock are sealed behind the duro rack by the grace ice and water membrane. Also I always make the tile go 6 " past the glass door into the bathroom. this makes a more beautiful job and a more waterproof one. What do you think?
Also use subflooring adhesive under and between each of the new curb's 2x4s... along with screws that should be screwed into as many floor joists as possible.
I love your content, but man I wish you would record and upload in 1080. In 2019, there's almost no reason not to - even basic phones record in HD and youtube supprts the format directly...
The only thing I disagree on is that a shower that large needs a 4.5” curb- 3” would be more than enough, and if your slope was 1/4” and you had a 4” drain, you could do that curbless-
Watched a video from Home Depot and did my bathroom myself. Looks great. Saved myself lots of money from contractors cutting each other’s throats. It’s not rocket surgery.
I'm a DIY tiler and sell flooring for a living. Somehow I don't think you'd be surprised by what my customers want to buy for their projects. Guys come in and want to tile directly over osb, or bypass mortaring the backer board down and just use screws. They buy the mastic for large format (oh god!). The list of horrors is long and I'm sure you've seen it all.
I agree with all u said. excellent tutorial- When I arrive at a site I’m the same way extremely meticulous. I just like to do the job right the 1st time- 👍🏽
You know the saying "guilty by association" well in this case I believe that can be closely related, He may have been present and had very little participation or none in what was actually done, but it's the intent of the incorrect process and materials that make the original contractor wrong. So with that he is guilty by association because you can clearly see what was about to go down. Just like if anyone were in court being charged with a crime they did not commit, that person was still there at the crime scene with full intent and stood around in observation before actually doing anything or not doing anything, or watching others do things. In this case it looks like the contractor underbid they're labor and overly spent on materials to compensate for they're lack of knowledge in the trade(thinking the most expensive products were going to somehow do all the work for them) and went back to the costumer after buying all the materials and said they would need more money. This is not uncommon with the trade work industry, if you get complacent and never learn more or even research updated trade information, you will fail. And if you are cocky thinking your way is the best way, well that is just ignorant, back before technology and building code that would have been okay, but at the end of the day you are doing a job for a client or customer and just out of respect for yourself and the names of the people who work for you who have to make a living, just have some pride and dignity in your labor, and always have integrity, word of mouth and the internet making note of all your wrongs and rights, it would just behoove an individual to progress in they're profession.
This is a textbook reason why you don’t use unskilled labor. I know the price hurts but factor it in. Years from when it was finished it will still be beautiful and operating properly
The floor needs to be tongue and groove. The floor has to be solid. Then you do the plumbing and shower pan first. Then you make the pan. Then 1/2 inch cement board goes up and then the wallls have the be plum and square. Then the water proofing all over the walls and pan. Then you finish the pan. Then the tile job starts. 1/4 inch cement board is for the floor.
I feel better watching this. I used most the same material except the tape and i used a shower pan. I learned real quick one bag of thin set wasn't even close to enough.
I tiled our tub/shower. We did a Roman bath/ shower. I red guarded the studs in the lower parts of the walls in tub area just in case. I used the wonder board, used seam seal with the tape, used red guard with its seam seal tape, used a rubber membrane on floor up sides to the bath top area, then I did a drypack and floor. I watched tons of RU-vid videos and wanted to make sure I was waterproofing good. Before I tiled.
Home RenoVision DIY has 800k followers. Thus, 800k people are misinformed and are learning how not to have a successful shower install. Keep it up we need you!!!!!
What your demonstrating with the RedGuard is it's elasticity in plane. Custom recommends you to tape corners because of the shear condition that can occur at changes of plane since RedGuard has fairly poor elongation under shear. To demonstrate shear take some RedGuard of an appropriate thickness and tear it as you would a price of paper. You'll find it tears quite easily.
No matter how thin the layer is it would definitely stand up before paper tape that is commonly used on drywall, that was the point I was trying to make. It is in fact a crack prevention membrane without tape. If your house moves to the point of this tearing, you've got bigger problems than no tape in corners.
Might want to use the appropriate names for the products you are talking about. Wonderboard is not Durock. They are both cement boards but they are not the same, it’s all in the details I guess.
It's code to use pressure treated wood ANY TIME THE WOOD IS ON CONCRETE FLOOR i.e. basement. Do to the fact concrete wicks water and moisture directly to the wood touching it. Can cause not only water damage, also attractive TERMITES, CARPENTER ANTS AND POWDER POST BEETLES. That can eat through moisture wood like BUTTER. It also aids in construction of their tunnels they build for travel and their larvae.
Interesting, I usually bush up from 1 1/2" to 2" as far as I can. I always questioned why a shower which has less GPM than a tub requires a larger drain, the answer I have gotten from plumbers is because a tub is generally 18 to 20 inches tall whereas a shower curb is only 5 in, that way more water flows out of your shower quicker than a tub, but I've never tested that.
I like your vid and everything you said but that 6 inch tape is to put over the gaps in the cement board so the red guard has a rough surface to bond too..it creates a better seal
😂😂😂😂 You do understand that redgard is not just a water proofer, it's a crack preventor, says right there on the label, typically used in huge warehouses on concrete floors to prevent cracking. Oh yeah....no tape is used on those massive floors 😂 And you do understand that redgard stretches 10 times further than tape ever would ✔
@@StarrTile any tile substrate you use on the floor is in fact covered in a membrane/tape and thinset but doesn’t need redgard since it’s a dry area. Concrete slab is different than a sub par butt seam. Just saying I wouldn’t just shove redgard into a corner or seam with no membrane or tape. I know guys that don’t bother waterproofing their cement/ hardie board and keep a job. You do you dude just providing what I’ve experienced.
guess you never had red guard crack in the corners, happens way more than you think. Also you MUST use pressure treated wood for a shower curb if it is a cement floor, if you wanna pass inspection. never had a problem with warping or twisting.
I am a tile installer and much of your information is misleading. Yes, there are many things that may make you wonder and much of that prep IS incorrect. But for example; one bag of thinset onsite...I will sometimes drop the single PC bag in my trailer and get more later. 2 bags of the sand would NOT cover that floor for the preslope AND bed slope. He has just enough with a bit extra, which is a good thing. I tape and waterproof. What’s wrong with reenforcing? You also contradicted yourself. You see a bow in the wall, but use what you called a straight edge, (Pressure treated wood) will not be straight. Some info beneficial, much of it irrelevant.
Thank you! thanks God,you are one of the few who are sincere here you are correct I've been doing this type of work for 30 years being a license contractor/ sub. tiles marble and terrazzo business, this guy is pathetic he's looking for more money👍👍 I appreciate what you said,you are correct I say hi to you from Miami.
It’s ALL about the prep. Fail to prepare. Prepare to fail. I’m not a tiler I’m a decorator and some clients just don’t understand. It’s like building a house. A large proportion of you money goes on things you’ll never see. Like proper footings. And because they can’t see it they think it a waste of money. Crazy. Anyway great vid👍
I think that redguard with the tape or membrane strip is a great idea to use in wet corners. I'm remodeling my master because an idiot used redgaurd on a wood curb in the corners and presto it leaked... I think previous owner did it. If they had done that membrane tape with red guard maybe it wouldn't have leaked.
The mesh tapes are new school stuff, I don't like mastic in wet areas even though some manufactures say you can use it. With that said, I found out the hard way why many installers don't use it.
Mastic is organic material, made from mastic tree... although nowadays that resin is mixed with other chemicals to form an in- organic material, still not recommended in wet areas...only for tub surrounds and backsplashes
I think every homeowner needs to watch your video because only professional s should be allowed to do tile work there's so many yahoos out there doing this type of crap giving these low prices people dont understand what it entails to do a shower lots of preparation and figuring and they wonder why costs so much its an art and u better be an artist
Keep up with your negativity comments. I want the truth so I can prevent any and all mistakes in the future. Anybody that is trying to control your speech and how you document YOUR video's is hindering people like me from learning. If anybody doesn't like the way you do your video's, they can simply watch other video's where they wont get offended. Good Job!
If you are DYI watch lots first, but also buy all the parts once you have a solid detailed plan. Example, if you had the toilet in advance you would get the holes right. I use a plumber for drainage and code inspections. I spent almost as much time planning it seems! So you’re time better not be worth much!
It's always good habit to introduce yourself and what you are about so there will not be any assumptions (which the first 3 letters of that word will always prevail at pointing you out as one) part of that intro is so the internet trolls don't OVERLOAD THE COMMENT BOARD with ridiculous comments like... "Who does this guy think he is?", "he doesn't have any experience, what do you even do for a living guy?" Some of us are mature enough to know that we all watch multiple RU-vid videos and read the comments and take it all in, and then process it howit fits to our personal SPECIFICATIONS FOR OUR PARTICULAR SITUATION, or we just want to be intrigued by another individuals perspective. That's how people grow just so you know. Everyone is entitled to an opinion, but for the sake of others, some can be left unsaid, there are alot of moments in life where some information is being put out and it may not be pertinent to you personally, but there is someone in that moment who defiantly needs to here it to become a better individual. 🤔
The acrlpro might be getting used on the back of the backer board some use it to float bad areas that are bowed who knows its reccomended to put under usg rock board when screwing rock board to floor i wouldnt waste my money but some do
I think you are slightly mistaken. Steps: Building felt on wood subfloor. Preslope using drypack. Liner membrane Thinset Tile Grout Sealer, if desired. My point is the liner does NOT go before the preslope. The liner foes on TOP of the preslope. Otherwise, the water that goes through the grout will get to the membrane and not drain because it isn't sloped.
It's sad contractors lack the proper skills. The money is right and the bathroom is bad. A "bad tile job." I did not ask for a cheap job. I'm stuck with a bad tile job. Thousand of $$$ wasted. Choose carefully. You live and learn. Thanks for the information.
One thing, red guard alone won't work. Most codes demand a hpg with anything cementous. Also just saying....you must tape concrete board with a thinset. Also red guard takes too many coats and hpg is higher rated. It has to be applied at a thickness of 40 mil.
