I have watched about ten of your videos. You are a likeable guy. I would love series by you as a machinist, telling a common person interested in all the steps a machinist is required for in his build. This episode is a perfect guide to how a crankshaft gets balanced.
I particularly appreciate your videos because when you come across what could a major mistake being done by other builders or garage mechanics, it's ALL HANDES ON DECK . Thanks for the update.
Yeah, brother! Love the work you do! I had a stroker built some years ago,, a 422ci SBC with a Callies crank, Oliver rods and BRC pistons. My machinist told me about the Mallory metal that he had to install, and weld in, to get it balanced.
Great videos; very straight forward and informative. Q: on the drilled holes, do you chaffer edges or machine a slight radius before final balancing? It was old school (or myth) to help reduction in windage. Thanks.
I have seen you do a lot of LS Motors. My question is have you run into main caps that have porosity? I just watched a video that showed this problem and they said the caps are made from powdered metal. I wanted to know if you have a video on this or could shed some light on this issue. I am an old retired mechanic/machinist. I have to say I have never run into this when I was doing engines but the industry has changed considerably. I like to stay up changes to the industry. You seem like a pretty straight shooter. Thank you
Very informative demo....On the Right side, if the Counterweight was Wide enough, would only 1 drill hole (center Between the 2) have Corrected the balance ?.....Thx for showing...
On a couple of engines where we have had 100 grams to remove, we chuck it up in the lathe and remove the entire counterweight until we get down to something reasonable to drill out. It’s pretty rare, but on my Mopar stuff with lighter aftermarket rods and pistons it can happen.
Aside from the intense labor, I would like to hear your thoughts about grinding the counterweights and shaping them for windage purposes vs drilling. Also, your thoughts on chamfering the balance holes. I know this is extreme for a mass produced crank. Thanks for posting because it is informative.
The leading edge would be the only benefit, and as you seen it didn't need correction on the edge, also I don't think you will see any advantage on 90% of builds, the extreme rpm stuff, yes, also oil control is a much more worthwhile venture IMHO, windage trays, properly designed pans ect.
@@powellmachineinc to me alot depends on the use of the car.. if its a roundie round car you end uop with a lot of oil on one side of the pan in corners front to back on the crank if it splashes up too high.. vs a drag car that sees the oil migrate to the back of the pan and thats it.. and guys building weekend warrior street / strip cars - seems like a waste of moiney for that crowd.. I never had a crank shaped.. i did put purpose built pans and windage tray in one motor that spend alot of time at the drag strip.. just because it seems modern oils at the time (late 90s) were more apt to foam.. in my opinion theres a lot of money spent on more extreme measures like someone asking for perfect zero balance, and crank shaping .. in cars that likely never get used to anything close to their limits.. but it sounds good to tell people you had all this specialized work done.. a crank balanced as nicely as this one in the video is gonna run true and be the least of anyone's worries (improper fueling and timing ruins way more rotating assemblies)
Is the drill bit point off just a whisker? I do all my own hand sharpening and had to buy an angle guage to get them more precise for better drilling. Got some good pointers from JoePie
Since you have one up and running, what's your thoughts on that mill mounted balancer? If you had to do it again, would you be cool with that, or insist on a free standing unit? I've been wanting to get that same unit, but I can't decided if I want to tie up the mill (and have to constantly tear down and setup every time I need to mill something. The downside is the extra footprint of the freestanding blancer, but at the same time I'd have to make room when I need to use the mill as a mill.
I understand how the Dynamic balance Machine works If the Rotating Assembly was spinning Without the cylinder Heads on & No Compression/Ignition events happening but why Dosen't the Running engine's various Intake, Compression & Ignition strokes (which effectively Lightened & Increases piston Weights) Upset the Running engines Total Dynamic Ballance condition ?? .....Thx for showing.....
Interesting video. Your final spin showed imbalance 9 degrees apart.... this will for sure be a problem at high RPM. Your final imbalance should be 180 degrees apart to avoid high RPM imbalance issues.
Not very much top notch content out there like this. I like the drilling fewer holes than the program suggests. My dumbass thinks one less hole dragging through the oil is better.
0 balance is another armchair social media BS!!! To get to 0 you would have to pull out a hand file. And you know as I do if you scrape it once or twice, BAM!!!! now it light and your adding. Toooooo much BS brother lol.
Daniel, would you give me cam specs you would use to get the most out of a L30 305 vortec, putting it in a stick shift short bed 2wd square body, until i get the 327 built that im oulling out of it?
