Balancing the New Crankshaft with Tungsten, Without Proper Tools | 2 Stroke Tuning 

I've found that wrapping a piece of tape around the drill bit so that the bottom edge forms the depth limit makes for a much easier to see reference line than a sharpie mark.

I'm not into 2 strokes but mad respect for you. This is how guys used to do stuff before we could pick up a catalog or google parts. Back before there were hot rod parts for everything. It's good to see people that know how to use their heads and hands for something besides playing games on a cellphone.

Great video! I feel way better about wanting to do this kind of work on my own. Demonstrating that craftsmanship still has a place in mechanical work is inspiring and much appreciated to make the task seem less-daunting.

Small tip, instead of welding the slugs, sliver solder them. So much cleaner and post operation is just a wire brush. Recovering the slugs in the future is just as easy, heat up the area to melt the silver and they just drop out. Cheap too! Silver solder is rated to 70,000 psi, same as ER70 mig welding.

Removing spatter with a wood chisel... I thought I was the only one, lol! Masonry bits on hard plate is also one of my tricks, though I learned it for drilling safes (legally, of course). Wish I could subscribe twice now, lol.

Thank you very much. The videos are educational and really well filmed. I think you manage to accomplish miracles working with what you have. And also, I really like your Swedish accent! "Man tager vad man haver". The best of luck to you and keep it up!

Alarmingly amazing,sir u hav unanimously earned d title of two stroke surgeon general,Great work keep it up

Great job! Something to be aware of is the flex of the drill press table when you bear down on it. You do amazing things with the tools you use, its why I watch, your tolerances are top notch. Watch your videos from the side drilling and you will see what I mean. I have no good solution but only point it out in case you are not aware of it. Your results are excellent and the balance on that crankshaft impressive. I look forward to your next video.

Hi, great stuff, hope all goes well for the project.Thanks for posting.

Great work! Can't wait to see the scooter up and running again. Strange fact, we have the same name and I also use a flux core welder for many more things than I should.

Nice👌🏻 and good work! The spx will be flying soon

This is realy cool, although i won't do that with my own Cranks, we have an Enginebuilder in the next town witch did this for me a couple of times now.

Already a new video?? Awesome! Keep up the good work.

interesting video! Thanks for posting it. Two affordable tips: Especially since you use a drill press, get a set of machinists "center drills" to start your holes. They are much more accurate than twist drills for that task. They are also countersinks and they work in hand drills. You'll never want to start a hole with a twist drill again. They aren't expensive and make life easy! Machinists use them because they don't "walk" when drilling anything from sheet metal to heavy stock. If you need more usable depth in future blind holes, you can drill then finish with a "center cut" end mill. Individual milling cutters are reasonable online.

Thanks for your dedication keep um comeing buddy

Hello, I'm on my daughter's RU-vid account. I saw your video for figuring out a balance factor. I applied that to my 11 vertical Briggs & Stratton engine. The counterbalance was bad so I tried to rebalance it without the counterbalance. It's not perfect, but I'm happy with it for my first attempt. I just wanted to mention an idea that might make things easier for when you drill holes for the tungsten metal. Maybe you already are doing this, but just in case you aren't. When you make your punch marks on the one side of the crank to drill, how about using an 1/8" drill and drill a pilot hole all the way through both webs at the same time. Just so there's no confusion, let's say you mark the flywheel side of the crank web. Now you install the crank in your drill press and drill the pilot holes. While leaving the flywheel side up, keep drilling through the flywheel side and into the clutch side of the crank web. It's such a small hole that I wouldn't think it would goof up your weight set up, you may need to ad a couple millimeters longer tungsten metal to counterbalance the 1/8" hole. You can still drill so far with the correct size drill bit so your tungsten metal won't go through hitting the crank. But the main thing is this way you only have to do the careful measuring and marking on just one side of the crank. Once you made your pilot holes, you can drill your bigger holes on the one side then flip the crank to drill the bigger holes on the other side.

If I were to perform such tasks on the crank in my bike I'd need a much bigger glass of rum. Great vid!

I would check for true, because the heat from welding may throw it off. Very helpful video thanks.

dont take this the wrong way but with all the other machining channels out there ive been losing hope that i will ever be able to afford to make nice things myself due to all the tools needed to achieve precision. but with your channel its like the oppisite sometimes, you teach how to be as unpresise as possible while still doing great work. this is what we need more of. no everyone can afford a milling machine but a drill press is alot more in reach.

love the cigar holder (0.25sec) onward , and the choice of single malt also. but dont try porting transfers 3 pegs down.

Hello Alex. I see you have a great taste in single malt. Take care.

Elsker videoene dine:D

I can see the table on your drill press deflecting downward when you put pressure on the bit... I use a scissor jack from a car under mine to help minimize that.. now the head of the drill press pushes UP.. lol..

If you want a flat bottom in the hole you can first use a drill to make a shallow hole. Then use the walls to guide a endmill down. Might work... When I do it I use a slightly sturdier drillpress/mill. Great work however! :D

I can't lie, I saw the drill chuck hit the crank and I became squeamish..lol. great vid and awesome content.

how do you know where you need to drill the holes to balance it out?

how do you decide on the weight of the inserts and the placement of the inserts on the crank web does this need calculations too? thanks

Great Videos!! What to see more! -where is the coolant while drilling?

amazing!!! How about the mods of the motorized bike? thanks for your videos!!!!

Just a quick question Alex - is there a reason why you didn't seperate the crank halves instead of doing it as an assemblt?

Kool thanks

Awesome

I would like to use the information I've gathered here to balance my motorized bicycle engine but I'm confused as to the application of the balance factor? I've got a balance factor, now what do you do with that info. How did you select the mass/amount of the tungsten and their locations? I would speculate that greater separation has to cancel out some of its mass e.g. 180 degrees of separation would have little effect on how that engine functions, and distance from the center of rotation could give the correct static balance but wouldn't that change with RPM?? Condensed question>> How do i use the balance factor and how do I select Mass, Location, and Distance form center of rotation?? Thanks!

nice work, what if one does it balance 100% factor , how will it run properly for racing

Nice video but instead of welding the tungsten slugs in u should use jb weld to glue them in place One point is that the heat treatment gets destroyed by the heat from the welding and the part could bend also from the heat

Use a little cutting oil on that drill.

What percen balance good 60% up

instead of adding tungsten or mallory metal to the rotating mass, why not remove some at 180 deg to where you would place the weights? Also curious if the rod and piston installed needs to be factored in for a precise rotational balance

Don't you have to subtract the amount of metal removed from drilling and then increase weight?

I like your videos and the pragmatic approach. But please: use protective goggles while drilling, milling or grinding! The more people watch your videos, the more you have to lead by example.

What are you replacing instead?

Where did you buy them? Tungsten?

Any videos on assembly?...i have a hell of a time keeping the crank true and getting assembled proper as the bearing cups and shaft fit is so tight...what do you think of sanding cup and or shaft so that the assembly is not so tight say a snug fit that i would pull through the case with not too much effort I could feel it bottom out and stop pulling.

La friccion de los anillos, no se toma en cuenta a la hora de balanceado. Porque bien representa ressistencia al tiempo de trabajo. Solo es una duda.

i would also like to know on a 1986 kx 500 that has a big bore of 94mm the piston is pretty big and i would like to make it lighter if i was to drill holes in the piston skirt would that be a good idea

I wana ask you somthing about this subject. The round cranck shaft is better then the semiround one?

Was just wondering. These after market big-bore kits. I was wondering if these manf. compensate for, say, a 49cc piston. Or, another good idea, for the diy`r. If your adding a big-bore, why not weigh the 49cc assembly, and then weigh the bb assy. See if you can machine some material off the bigger piston, in order to bring it into balance. Just a thought.

That is ecxactly for bigger piston, you 're right

Do u need some special wire or gas to weld the thungsten to the cranck

The workshop sent me here

I have learned a lot watching your videos, but the real reason I searched You Tube was to find out what to use when "stuffing my crankshaft", maybe I got the term wrong, but I am interested in filling in the very large unused holes in my crankshaft. Can anyone advise what epoxy or what to use for that. I have not seen it in your videos so far. thanks

What kind of metal are the slugs? With the crank being case hardened, you must need some very dense material as slugs

So where do u get slugs for cheap...i ordered tungsten slugs for pinewood derby cars they are 3/8 diameter by 7/16 1/2 ounce each I am hoping to use them to balance my gas bicycle crank but am not sure how to test the weight on the crank to find out where exactly to place it.

hi two stroke stuffin why dont aligerate the alternative masss ???¿ i think is more less worck , but i now this tugsten wheigth a lot. good job see you again..

I just have to ask, doesn't those long shafts on that crank create harmonic imbalance as opposed to a much shorter shaft? Seems to me that the closer to the con-rod the output shaft is the less flex.. we both know it's a fact..just looking for your input on the matter. Thanks.

Great video, can you please tell me whats the weight factor of Kawasaki GTO 125

Are there other material that can be used as counterweights other than tungsten? I can't find any hardware store that sells tungsten slug in my city. thinking about using lead and epoxy but i'm afraid it won't hold the heat

hellow sir goodevening can i ask one question? it is a random hole in the crank web? that you put the tungsten .. or there are some point that have to be drilled?

it is added to weight or the crankshaft is light

Hi Bro. I just upgrade my bike MSX125 with big bore kit, the balancing factor is only 20%, how do you think a bout this?

Germany makes the finest bearings.

Pal - how you decided the weight you put into crank??? I am working with that more then 25 years and really know this is now easy sometime to decide that even having the special "formula" which helps to calculate a proper weight. BUT - you have to know first for what an engine will be used (cross, enduro, road race), which RPM's are more usefull for rider, what the rider like to use more - power or torgue, weight of the complete piston and piston pin with a circlips, "related" weight of the small end of a connecting rod and some other data to calculate so called "balance factior"... Then it takes just 30 minutes to find the weight and the place to put it into the crank using the "bladed base"... and then about 2 hours or so to install the weights, assembly the crank and true it... Easy... if you know what and how should be done (better - properly)...

more motorized bicycle vids!!!

What would happen if you were to run the stock balance ?

Maybe I’m mistaken but I need you to explain something. Don’t you have to take the weight of the piston the needle bearing the total weight of it fully assembled into consideration because I just saw you test it with just the connecting rod on there

just been looking at your old videos. Why don't you use loctite 601. It's good for more then 300 degrees and won't come loose and if you want to change you can heat it up and change them for different size for other piston weight.

can i ask? what is the problem of my crank.. i put my crank in crank shell and after that i tigthen all bolts and after that. i rotate the crank is hard to rotate not totally spinning freely.. what can i do? btw my engine is honda dio 1 .. thanks!

you are a beast! how is the motorized bike doing? :)

Where do you source the tungsten slugs from?

How weight one piece of tungsten

no cutting oil?

More motorized bike videos please! So many people have those things but they are so badly tuned from factory, and I know you're very skilled and have so much knowledge to share about it

Its depressing that the table on the drill flexes downwards so much when you push the drilling pressure (as you should !) .. this.means holes wont be square. In the absence if a stronger drill machine, can you support the table with a bit of wood (or better a jack ?)

Your definition of press fit is different than mine apparently :p Just kidding! I love your channel it really inspires me to tune my own 2 stroke engine and make a racing monster. I wanna make a go kart but i'm from the Netherlands maybe someone can help me where i can find go kart parts like the axle and wheels.

Burt Munro of two stroke engines

Why the added weight? what was the issue before adding slugs?

Hello I have a question I have a Piaggio nrg from 1995 with a cylinder head bsg1 with 2.8 kW full stock and a NRG from 1996 with cylinder head bsg4 full stock 2.2kw wath os the difference? Can you help? I am restoring both

That weight is the hung weight ?

One shard of steel in your eye and youll wish you had safety glasses

Got a question, How did you know where to place the insert?.

hva er poenget med det her? veiva kommer vel ferdig balansert?

What are those round balls instead?

great videos dude. but pleas use safety goggles when you drill. 9:00 dude. your lucky nothing happens. keep up the good work:)

Can someone tell me the name of the "paint" that he uses on 3:30? Thanks

"Carbide slugs"? Where you get them?

Sir good day can you help me design for crankshaft balance for 2 stroke engine Yamaha rxt 135 my piston is 59mm I'm the dragracer her in Cebu Philippines thanks xto your help

do a 2 stroke chain saw motor

Why did you choose Doppler?

I love how much you get done with normal everyday tools, but every time you use that drillpress without protection and holding parts with your bare hands my stomach hurts😰

sir...how to calculate the weight that has to be added...??

Does the balance crank increase horsepower?

Hi. I am from argentine and my english is poor.i want to ask you if this crankshaft is for a scooter or what type of motorcycle?

4 parça kaç mm ağırlığında adet olarak

Put a piece of tape on your drill instead of coloring it with that blue marker, just some advice.

Loctie 601 will hold them slugs in just fine

Can I ask sir... What if you have put to much of that tunsten in your crankshaft how would your engine behave?

Thank you anyway

materialmässigt-hur mycke mer vikt får du på veven i förhållande till stålet du borrar bort?...some1 might want it in english.. how mych more weight do u get whit the tungsten compared to the steel you drill out

You really need a TIG-weld machine...

Why not just use an interference fit ? you would not have to use that flux core mig and would look a lot more cleaner and easier.