Great video, Stan! Lots of creativity and ideas outside the box! I love the little vice, nice touch with the burnished finish, very attractive little tool!
When you mentioned brake rotors it reminded me of a trick I once saw. You place a heavy rubber band around the circumference of the rotor or drum to stop the ringing while machining the surfaces.
I would have taken the rear face and applied a bead of polyurethane adhesive there, then let it cure for a few days, then machined it to a ring. That would damp the harmonics. Alternatively cut a groove into the outer edge, and apply a spring from a large seal in the groove, and use the polyurethane to hold it in there. The spring and rubber damps harmonics. Old trick for singing solid brake disks was to machine a groove in the outside, and place a heavy steel wire in there to damp it. Not common now with ventilated disks that are inherently self damped with the webs joining the sides though.
hi i did the same thing on my 1800rpm baldor with a lathe bit. to get a quick and dirty lower rpm i toggled the on off switch every 5s or so. it was good enough to get rid of chatter.
Hi STAN we balanced the backing plate and stone together on a shop made balancer with air bearings, worked like a champ. Would be a fun project for the channel! Mike collins
Great video. I need to do the same thing. My mounting nuts run true, unlike Kieth’s. I would be concerned about parallelism with the bearing face. You trimmed off the clamped parallel. If not perfect, you are cutting a taper. I have no problem facing the aluminum hub but I have to verify 90 degrees to the z. Thanks
Stan, great video. Could the shaft be distorting under thread torsion ? How straight was is it outside the inner bush that indicated true ? We used to machine VW drums with the wheel nuts tightened up to eliminate distortion there. Best of luck with the Bash.
With the keyway in it there would be uneven tension in the shaft, plus the rough and ready nut as well, with the chance of the Baldor cut thread not being too straight. Great place to have a set of self aligning washers to handle the misalignment on the thread and nut, unless you use a witness mark instead of a torque when tightening it.
did you get rid of the vibration with the machine running.. you may need to figure out a way to shift the wheels around to zero their run out since they don't have a hub to pilot on. checking the outside runout and with the screws slightly loose bumping the wheels slightly might remove it totally without needing to remove the wheels from the backing plates. either that or build new backing plates on a lathe with a tighter bore and a hub to center the wheels ... but also make a spindle or pilot of that size so you can balance it on the surface grinder balancing jig.. i would probably also use a tiny curved diamond file to take off the high spot you found on the shaft spacer, if its only one spot.. the only other way you might create a balance device is like the steel shot in the ring that mounts behind the wheels on cars and trucks.. each time the car reaches speed the steel shot evens out the balance.. could that be done in your new backing plates? this does not get rid of runout.but it will take care of out of balance issues.. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ullnFQD4F1I.html its only a thought.. thanks for the video.. and area the hold down screws and washers all equal weight... that could be an easy way to change the balance.. change the washer weight.. or grind a little off one of the washers and move it around one position at a time. so you don't loose the work done zeroing the run out. .
turn wright machine works did a vid on this very thing and he found some really extreme run out on the nuts them selves once corrected made vast improvements. so check out keiths work.
Never really considered the nuts, I would think the threads would have enough slop to self align, they would have to be REALLY bad to influence the hub like that. I think the main problem with these hubs was the shaft fit, they were very loose fitting on the shaft. 6-8 thou slop.
that is what keith thought as well until he took a look at the nut, corrected that problem then measured the assembly again. pt one; ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9xRy8wGfcIk.html
As a "kid," those were the things I would have tried, shop or field. Most likely would have used the sanding disk trick, might have even tried using a file.
Great video Stan. I run a few on my old Delta carbide grinder, and really like it. I have a bff with an extension cord and a magnetic control box, and just plug in my different yes and belt sanders, and great to regulate the speed for different applications. I would look at truing up the but the next time you remove the back plate.
That was really useful Stan, much appreciated. I have a knockoff Baldor and between this video and K.Fenner's vid on this same subject I know what to look for. I have 2 silicon wheels on mine and even without it being bolted down I can stand a nickel on top of the motor and turn it on and off and it doesnt budge which is a good sign but have yet to do a thorough investigation of the machine so appreciate your vid. Btw, where can I pick up a suitable wheel for use on HSS as I dont need two silicon carbide wheels. TIA~ Richard
Nicely done Stan. I'm surprised to see that is a problem on the Baldor grinders as well. I have one of the clones that was far worse than that and ended up having to make all new spacer sleeves and hubs that actually fit the motor shafts without the huge gaps. I found the original cast aluminum hubs to be full of internal voids after initially trying to true them up on my lathe. I turned new hubs from some 6061 round stock and new sleeves from some heavy wall DOM tubing. Night and day difference now that those parts don't shift around on the shafts due to the oversize ID's that the original parts had. By the way, thanks for showing another great way for me to use my awesome Z-squares. I love it!
Stan, that was badass. Please do a video on how you did the engine turning ( jewelling) on your little vise there, i've always been facinated with that finish. Thanks!
Good work. One important safety note. It is incredibly important that the tool doesn't cam into the wheel. Same as table saw kickback; everything is fine until you don't have fingers anymore.
What kind of gage did you use to measure the "wobble" on the lap disc??? I may absolutely need something like it to adjust /modify a faceting machine I just purchased. Please tell me -has it got a name? The first gage you used prior to applying the carbide looked like just the thing I will need-the second gage was Starrett and I guess it does much the same thing. If you can spare a moment, thanks.
Stan I have the same motor and is missing one of the underneath the table protractor did you have any idea we’re I can get it and we’re did you get those wheels and how much thank you
Stan if your lathe is big enough take the motor off the stand but leave it assembled and the hubs still on and run it between centres then you have control over the speed ,did the same when I made my grinding spindle for my quorn
That would be a pucker moment when first feeding the cutter in. I would probably have mounted the tool upside down in the vice so it was sitting on the table for fear of the tool grabbing and tipping into the wheel (rapid aggressive increase in cutting depth followed by crushed fingers and much foul language). Great job. Love the mini vice with the engine turned finish.
Very nicely done Stan. Would you mind saying where to find the diamond grinding wheels I have the same grinder. Sure do appreciate you sharing your experience.
G'Day Stan, love the methodology, I would never have tried to cut by 'hand' but you showed what can be done when you think outside the box. I do have a permanent VFD on my grinder for speed control on my diamond/carbide wheels. Are you able to give the brand name or supplier of your segmented diamond wheels, mine is a lap type diamond face wheel and I avoid HSS on it but the segmented ones look just the job. Cam
Thanks Stan, I'll see if I can't find an equivalent here in Oz. One thing I forgot to mention was I had a similar issue with a bench saw. Turned out the face of the nut wasn't true to the thread and was applying more pressure on one side than the other causing the blade to kick out. Cut a threaded mandrel in the lathe with a tight fit with to the nut and re-faced. Blade ran as straight as a die after that. Cam
The diamond will last a long time, just remember to use a lubricant all the time to keep it cool. Small diamond whetstone I have outlasted the stone ones, even though I got it when they were first available, it still does a good job, just use it either oiled, with methylated spirits, or with water and dish soap.
